Splotchy Walnut HELP?!

[Benjamin wright]

I guess I can't post pics here - tried to do so but it came back as all garbled html text...

I made a walnut table with shop sawn veneers from a walnut log that I milled. I finished it first w Rubio Monocoat and found the finish too dull and not durable (water marks after first dinner?!), so I decided to sand it down and go with poly.

Here is a shot post sanding (started with 120 random orbit up through 220) which shows some little spots slightly darker than the naked walnut around it. I suspected they might be some of the rubio and they went away SOMEwhat when I wiped with acetone but not completely.

I decided to try a patch with the poly (old masters oil based thinned 3/1) and didn't see the splotches coming through so did the whole thing.

when it dried, however, I got white/grey splotches on all the figured spots

They reduced somewhat w scuff sanding and mineral spirits wipe down, but still there.
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So... what do I do next? sand it down again removing the one coat of poly and then what? use stripper lightly to try to remove all former rubio finish. Let it dry for a good long while and then try it again?

I've read the white is a result of moisture trapped.

The veneers are still thick enough that I can sand it again, but I was fearful the ultra-cat glue might get released with stripper so if anyone has any hints on that, this would also be appreciated. Its a killer table and has been a labor of love for over two years so i want to get it right this time:

Thanks!
Ben Wright

[Brian Tymchak]

Benjamin, I don't have any info for your question. Just replying to let you know that your pictures are fine. A moderator will need to confirm but I think as a member, you can not view attached pictures. The garbled html is probably a consequence of posting a picture and not having the permission to see it.

[Jim Becker]

Viewing images requires Contributor status...click on the "Donate" button at the top of the page to become a Contributor which gives access not just to images, but also Private Messaging and access to the Classifieds. $6 is the minimum contribution.

Jim
Forum Moderator

[Benjamin wright]

Benjamin, I don't have any info for your question. Just replying to let you know that your pictures are fine. A moderator will need to confirm but I think as a member, you can not view attached pictures. The garbled html is probably a consequence of posting a picture and not having the permission to see it.

Thanks Brian! Yes, I figured out how to insert the photos correctly and forgot to change my verbiage! Have a good day.

Ben

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I do not have experience with Rubio Monocoat. My best guess is that you have an incompatibility between the Rubio Monocoat and polly. Try a gentle warming with a low watt incandescent light bulb suspended not too close or hair dryer. It also looks like blush. Blush is generally a problem associated with lacquer and humidity. I always try to avoid stripper, sometimes it is unavoidable. You could make a small mock up of your build and do some tests and stripper trials. I like the book match and bold character!

[Benjamin wright]

Thanks for the advice. Rubio is an hard wax/oil finish. I sanded it down and then did a poly. Now I have stripped the three table leaves. Will sand and then try again - maybe I'll hit it w the dryer and let it dry for a few days. Was fairly dry when I applied the poly so I think that the blushing was from wax that had soaked further into figured spots.
Thanks for the bookmatch compliment - was a labor of love building this thing from logs and making many mistakes along the way!

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Finish is the hardest part for me. A table top especially so. I have a very limited and old fashioned group of products that I am able to get consistent results with.

[Jim Becker]

Ben, even if you sanded away the Rubio, any wax remaining is going to compromise anything with polyurethane resin in it. Poly doesn't even like to "stick to itself" and wax is a major issue. A barrier coat of wax free shellac first can help avoid that or use a non-poly varnish.

[Benjamin wright]

Ok - I stripped and then sanded and applied a coat of thinned poly to one leaf. I think I got rid of the haze and it looks like walnut should look after a first coat of poly. Will add another later today.

Perhaps on the next one I will do a coat of shellac first and then poly as you recommend (if I understood you correctly??)and compare the two leaves before I do the table...503411

[George Yetka]

I agree with Jim. Your best bet in my eyes is sanding the poly off and reapplying the Rubio. Follow it with something like this https://n3nano.com/

[John TenEyck]

I have no idea why the RM would have water stained. In my testing it was pretty much bulletproof to everything I abused it with. It is dull, for sure, but you can get it up to maybe a satin sheen by sanding to 180 first, red scotch brite after the first coat, and then applying a second coat.

In any case, I think you'll be fine now with the poly. Stripping it would have removed any wax.

John