Best way to fix this indoor door - puppy damage

[Alan Lightstone]

Well, my puppy (well really not a puppy anymore, but don't tell him that), has over a number of months when he was younger scratched a hole into his bedroom door.

It doesn't go through all the way, and not sure of what the substance inside the door is (not wood), but wondering the best way to repair it / fill the holes. Simple wood filler then sand and paint, or is there a sturdier approach. I looked into metal plates for the bottom of the door. Too pricey for that size.

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[Lee Schierer]

It looks like your door is masonite or high density fiberboard. MinWax makes a two part wood repair product that works quite well. I've used it to make repairs to a number of out door wood window sills. It sets up rather quickly and can be shaped with a putty knife and sanded when set up.
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[Alan Lightstone]

It looks like your door is masonite or high density fiberboard. MinWax makes a two part wood repair product that works quite well. I've used it to make repairs to a number of out door wood window sills. It sets up rather quickly and can be shaped with a putty knife and sanded when set up.
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I'm thinking this is just like Bondo, which I have too. Should I just use that, or is the Minwax product a better choice.

[David Stone (CT)]

I'm thinking this is just like Bondo, which I have too. Should I just use that, or is the Minwax product a better choice.

They're actually pretty different. The MinWax wood filler's strength is filling deep cavities and large volume areas; I was using it today to repair the sizable excavations left behind by removing old cut nails when renailing clapboard on my old house. It's much hard to sander than Bondo and less well suited to very shallow repairs. In your pic, the stile, rail and perhaps right side panel ding look like candidates for Bondo. The MinWax wood filler could be a solution for what appears to be an actual hole on the left side panel. If you've never used it before, experiment first to understand its properties.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Masonite slab door - line up the hinge locations - route out the hinges using a jig - drill out the lock.
1/2 hour job - tops.

For first timer - figure about an hour and a half to check, recheck and check again.

If that hole on the left is really a hole and goes all the way through, there isn't any way I know of to repair that and still keep the edge profile. Wood putty and filler just don't bridge gaps like that. You could use fabric mesh, but, then it would mess with the profile of the panel.

One advantage of replacing the door with a slab and routing the hinges and drilling the lock is - - you add both the jigs and the experience to your scope of "things I can do so I'm not stymied in the future".

I've done more than a few slabs. They aren't difficult. The jigs (Ryobi door hinge template ~$30)(Door knob jig - $20 to $40 depending on mfg.)

Anyhow - if you have the Bondo & the time, you might as well give that a try. If it works, great! If not, then replacing the door with a new slab isn't at all the huge ordeal it seems to be.
The only real "gotcha" is to be extra sure of exactly where your hinges will go - - in relation to the edge of the door. Height (up and down) is easy monkey see/monkey do, by using the old door as a guide. It's getting the edges right that can trip you up.

[Alan Lightstone]

The hole doesn't go all the way through, fortunately. The other places where the covering (? masonite) has been scratched off are very shallow, so I'm wondering if they can just be painted, or shallow Bondo/sanding.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Sure - I'd use spackling compound myself, but, if you have Bondo then by all means use that.

I'd prime the spots before patching also.

[Alan Lightstone]

Sure - I'd use spackling compound myself, but, if you have Bondo then by all means use that.

I'd prime the spots before patching also.
What do you prime it with? I think it's too deep for spackle, plus I wouldn't mind it stronger than that in case he misses us and scratches the door again.

[John TenEyck]

Bondo.

John

[Mel Fulks]

There’s a song about that.
When will my door be fine? …..Bondo Bondo BONDO BONDO ?!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Prime it with anything - preferably solvent based and not water based.
I'd use B*I*N - for before and to prime the Bondo.

[Richard Coers]

You sure it's not time for a new door?

[Alan Lightstone]

You sure it's not time for a new door?
A very debatable point. But it's a room that humans rarely stay in, just the dogs, so since the outside of the door is pristine, no one notices. And since I can fix it, I will. If it then looks crappy, replacement time. Just don't think it will be a tough repair.

[Robert Hazelwood]

That big hole is in a bad spot and will be the main challenge. I'd use the 2-part filler or bondo on that, but will probably take several attempts and a lot of sanding to try to match the profile. The other areas I would skim coat with regular filler or setting-type drywall compound, much easier to spread and sand than bondo. Sand it flush and prime/paint

And before filling I think I would prime the damaged areas with something like BIN, Gardz, or even thinned PVA glue. This is what you'd do for drywall repairs where the paper is torn- without priming the mud/filler will tend to bubble the torn areas.