Epoxy on edges of turned walnet bowls - disaster!

[Randall J Cox]

I have turned a bunch (18) of black walnut bowls. After drying and doing second turning, I attempted to level out a natural bark edge with epoxy. (First time trying this.) I put black duct tape on inside and blue painters tape on outside top edges (as little dams) and mixed and poured epoxy in. Long story short, the epoxy found its way inside the tapes, both inside and out and all drained down to outside and inside of bowl. I thought I had the tape stuck pretty good, obviously I was wrong. Really screwed up one bowl. Anybody have any idea if there is a better tape to use or should I just abandon the idea of trying to fix the top rims. Tx. Randy

[Richard Coers]

Epoxy sets through an exothermic chemical reaction. That probably softened the adhesive and it came loose. Blue tape hardly has any adhesive on it to start with.

[Jim Morgan]

You could use the ruined bowl for experimentation. Hot melt glue might serve to seal the bottom edge of the tape; afterwards, DNA loosens the bond so it can be easily removed.

[Randall J Cox]

Hot melt glue, that might work. I have used epoxy before and am aware of the chemical reaction and heat. However, no heat at all with this pour. Had my fingers in it trying to stop the leak, cool as a cucumber. Also took 24 hours to cure. (And I mixed it thoroughly for 6 minutes like it said to do.) I'll use this bowl to experiment with hot melt. Also, was watching others do this on utube and one experienced turner (Turn a Wood Bowl - name of video series) used "gaffers tape". Anybody ever heard of it or use it for anything like this? Randy

[guy laizure]

Use a uv curing resin like Solerez.brush some on ,hit with the proper uv flashlight, and it is cured in seconds.

[Jim Morgan]

Hot melt glue, that might work. I have used epoxy before and am aware of the chemical reaction and heat. However, no heat at all with this pour. Had my fingers in it trying to stop the leak, cool as a cucumber. Also took 24 hours to cure. (And I mixed it thoroughly for 6 minutes like it said to do.) I'll use this bowl to experiment with hot melt. Also, was watching others do this on utube and one experienced turner (Turn a Wood Bowl - name of video series) used "gaffers tape". Anybody ever heard of it or use it for anything like this? Randy

Gaffers tape is similar to duct tape. Ask any roadie - they will have used gaffers tape to secure cables during performances. Duct tape is often reflective; gaffers tape is matte. The key question here is whether the adhesive is different. It seems similar to me, but how each reacts to curing epoxy is beyond my ken.

[Wally Crawford]

I tried gaffers tape for epoxy and it didn't work. I use plastic cut from milk jugs or the tops from the containers from the deli. Lay a bead of hot melt glue near the crack you want to seal and press the plastic into the hot melt while it is still soft. Next seal the edge of the plastic with another bead of hot melt, giving you a double seal. I don't bother removing the hot melt from the bowl when the epoxy is dry. The bowl gouge does a very good job of doing that.

[Richard Coers]

Hot melt glue, that might work. I have used epoxy before and am aware of the chemical reaction and heat. However, no heat at all with this pour. Had my fingers in it trying to stop the leak, cool as a cucumber. Also took 24 hours to cure. (And I mixed it thoroughly for 6 minutes like it said to do.) I'll use this bowl to experiment with hot melt. Also, was watching others do this on utube and one experienced turner (Turn a Wood Bowl - name of video series) used "gaffers tape". Anybody ever heard of it or use it for anything like this? Randy
It's impossible that the epoxy didn't gain temperature unless it didn't set up at all.

[Eugene Dixon]

I learned the hard way not to use duct tape with epoxy pours. I've had success with tuck tape (tyvek tape) and aluminum tape (real duct tape). Still, wrinkles are not your friend with either.

[Randall J Cox]

Eugene. As most of this will go to repair the top edges of natural edge bowls, wrinkles not an issue. I'd turn excess down on the lathe. Minor top edge issues not a problem, in fact adds to the bowl's character. Its the major issues that need fixing. Thanks for info. Randy

[Jim Tobias]

TYvek tape and/or hot glue dams will go a long way. Another thought is figure out a way( maybe turn it on lathe) to make a circular "Moat" and line it with tyvek tape and put the bowl in upside down so only the rim is submerged in the resin. Just a thought.

Jim

[Randall J Cox]

Jim, very interesting idea! (Thinking outside the box...) Tx. Randy

[Eugene Dixon]

StewMac card scrapers make quick work of the 'runs' for me.

[Randall J Cox]

OK, just experimented again using aluminum duct sealing tape. Worked much better but still had a little epoxy seepage inside bowl at one point where I couldn't get much tape down due to bowl curvature both ways. Worked a lot better than my first try though. Getting smarter! Randy

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I use epoxy for many cracks - the stuff does tend to work it’s way deep into the fissures, finding ways out that weren’t apparent at first. I use hot melt wax to build dams around the openings, but have been resigned to working on plastic sheet to keep the mess contained. I have noticed that after the first run with epoxy, it seems to seal up most of the leaks so the second pour is less troublesome. I do go over places where the first pour leaked with hot melt just in case.

[Brice Rogers]

On some items where I painted on a border (pearlesent), I had the best luck using black vinyl electrical tape. It stretches nicely or curved surfaces and left a sharp line with no wrinkles.