Bandsaw bearings and other rebuild questions

[Cory filder]

I have a bandsaw that is new to me.Delta, uncommon model. I noticed that the bearings on the upper wheel make a clicking sound When turning it by hand. About five or six clickss per rotation. I don't know if this is normal or if the bearing needs to be replaced. I was told it was replaced about five years ago. Without a blade, The wheel turns nicely actually.

should I leave it alone?

My thrust bearing is press fit and doesn't have a retainer clip.
The following bearing that goes on this press-fit shaft is a 608Z or 608ZZ.
501529

[John Lanciani]

What model saw?

[Cory filder]

What model saw?

Delta 28-190

[Bill Dufour]

If a ball bearing makes any noise replace it. Use rubber sealed not shielded.
$11.88 for twenty on ebay today. At that price no question I would replace 20 year old grease.
Bill D.

[Cory filder]

If a ball bearing makes any noise replace it. Use rubber sealed not shielded.
$11.88 for twenty on ebay today. At that price no question I would replace 20 year old grease.
Bill D.


As a good tip about using sealed bearings. Of course it makes sense. Are thrust bearings oiled or greased? I ask because I thought they were oiled. Also if I'm to change the bearing type, I'm not familiar with the nomenclature, assuming it's no longer a 608Z or zz.Since it's a press-fit, I know it's Inexpensive to get several bearings, but I would rather only do this more seldomly.

[Greg Quenneville]

If they were oiled bearings they would have a fitting that fits an oil gun (shallow cup with a tiny ball spring loaded where the oil goes, used with an oil gun unlike a typical oil can). A greased bearing can also have zerk-like fittings, but they only need a pump or two per year in a busy shop. Too much grease isn’t a good thing.

I replace my woodworking machine bearings when needed with rubber seals (2RS) both sides unless in really high rpm applications (10,000 rpm+)

[Bill Dufour]

608rs or possibly 608rr. is a 608 bearing with two rubber seals.
NTN might say 608 LLU
Bill D

[Cory filder]

If they were oiled bearings they would have a fitting that fits an oil gun (shallow cup with a tiny ball spring loaded where the oil goes, used with an oil gun unlike a typical oil can). A greased bearing can also have zerk-like fittings, but they only need a pump or two per year in a busy shop. Too much grease isn’t a good thing.

I replace my woodworking machine bearings when needed with rubber seals (2RS) both sides unless in really high rpm applications (10,000 rpm+)

These are tiny bearings that are not serviceable, As they don't have any fittings.

thrust bearing is 7 cm per rotation or 2.75 inches per rotation. saw blade speed is approximately 3300 ft./m. Or 39,600 in./m. divide these numbers and the RPM is about 14,400.
So given that the bearing is 14,400 RPM, But it appears to be within spec for grease according to the bearing link below.
However, I still don't know oil or grease is the recommended type

bearingsCanada.com webpage. https://www.bearingscanada.com/608ZZ-Bearing-8x22x7-Carbon-Steel-Shielded-p/608zz-8x22x7-carbon-miniature.htm

and the 608z bearing is recessed ( probably to protect the seals),. also supposed to be recessed? The 2RS seals inner and outer race appeared to be flush. I'm wondering if it's possible to get recessed and sealed.

[Bill Dufour]

14,400 RPm probably better check and see if rs can take that speed. I bet that is why the used shielded.
BilL D

[Ronald Blue]

14,400 RPm probably better check and see if rs can take that speed. I bet that is why the used shielded.
BilL D

They are good for 22,000 rpm. At least SKF is.

[Bill Dufour]

Makes sense that rpm goes up as bearing size goes down. A smaller circumference goes a shorter distance for any given rpm.
Bill D

[Cory filder]

I'm still not clear on whether it should be in oiled or greased one

[Ronald Blue]

I'm still not clear on whether it should be in oiled or greased one

Is the old bearing just shielded? A sealed will have a slightly higher rolling resistance but probably not enough to be an issue. It will be a permanently greased bearing. Although you can probably use a needle greaser and add a small amount it isn't likely to need it. An oiled bearing set up would be messy in that application.

[Randall J Cox]

I've replaced many bearings over the past 35 years in bandsaws (2), radial arm saws (2), shop motors (5), planers (1), jointer (1), lathe (head and reeves drive) and all are greased from the factory. As an exception, there were actually a couple that ran in an oil bath in the two-speed gear box of my Delta planer. Most last 25-35 years for a hobbiest and are cheap enough to just replace. So my answer would be greased. And as Bill Dufour said, use rubber sealed not shielded. Randy

[Cory filder]

I've replaced many bearings over the past 35 years in bandsaws (2), radial arm saws (2), shop motors (5), planers (1), jointer (1), lathe (head and reeves drive) and all are greased from the factory. As an exception, there were actually a couple that ran in an oil bath in the two-speed gear box of my Delta planer. Most last 25-35 years for a hobbiest and are cheap enough to just replace. So my answer would be greased. And as Bill Dufour said, use rubber sealed not shielded. Randy

Great. that you

[Bill Dufour]

If the tool cost less then a modern car, when it was built, it is unlikely to use oiled bearings unless it was made before WW2 or so.
Bill D

[Cory filder]

a few things I notice about the condition of the existing bearings and the motor

top wheel is a lot louder. 6 ticks per revolution. Spinning freely I can maybe get to spend for 30 secondsBy spinning with hand
bottom wheel it makes a Much quieter ticking sound, 1 tick per revolution I can get to spin for 120 seconds by spinning with hand
the motor with no belt on will only spend for 15 to 20 secondsFrom full speed. is this normal? I'm wondering if there's a braking mechanism, or if it's a bad bearing
The pulley on the motor shaft is definitely loose so have to look at the key or the pulley itself.

do you guys think I should leave the bottom wheel alone? is that normal behaviour for a motor spin time from full speed to stop?

[Rod Sheridan]

Standard grease filled bearing with seals.

Your local power transmission place should have them in stock……Regards, Rod

[Cory filder]

What about that question about the condition of the motor and existing bearings from post #17?

I found out that a bolt holding the motor pulley on was loose just by a bit.Tightening the bolt seems to solve the problem, although I don't know if it's temporary. The lock washer seems to be compressed slightly (Inelastic). And when the bolt is removed entirely, the pulley will move side to side ( around the key by a very tiny amount, that I can feel but not see).Is any movement acceptable? My gut says of course not

[Cory filder]

After some more digging it appears as though the pulley was machined at some point and made larger. I think it's time to abandon the old motor for sure. With the new motor, I think I'm going to switch to standard V-belt pulleys only because the motor pulley is a bit damage and appears to be unobtainable.What do you recommend in terms of switching to pulleys V-belt? I'm assuming it is cheaper or easier to find than a six ribbed poly V-belt. But I don't know