Best type of dust collector for lung cancer survivor

[Eddie Elmore]

I am a 58yo lung cancer survivor - never smoked! I have read and watched hundreds of reviews on every dust collector out there. I had narrowed it down to Supercell, G700, JCDC-2 and a Laguna C-flux 1.5. I am a hobby woodworker with 3HP table saw, 14" bandsaw, router table, planer, miter saw, drill press and spindle sander, etc. I have a Jet air filtration system already but want to add the best dust collector I can to protect my terrible lungs best I can. Everyone has their bias based on the machine they have or had and I understand that but if someone has been in my situation or can just offer some good advice I would really like to hear it! Thank you!

[Jim Becker]

No bias to this answer: Buy the absolute best system you can afford that collects as much as possible, particularly the fines. It's not just about the dust collector, but also how the collection happens "at the machine". Work with a dust collector provider that specializes in that...Oneida, Clearvue, for example, for the larger systems. Opt for the best filtration offered. For more portable but with excellent filtration, Harvey G700 or Oneida SuperCell.

And even with the best dust collection system configured in the most optimal way, you should still wear PPE while generating dust because the fines are the most dangerous.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I am sorry to learn of your battle with lung cancer. Best wishes with your care and treatment. My Dad (also a non smoker) is having impressive results from his treatment and is off on a fishing trip with a fellow Oxygenarian! I have Grizzly felt bag hand-me-downs from 2 shops that I installed Oneida system in. It has been a while since I did the research. 2 stage Oneida cyclones with pleated 2nd stage filters had very good ratings. I look forward an upgrade.

Best regards, Maurice

[Frank Pratt]

Get yourself a cheap particle counter that will let you know just what the state of the air is at all times. For example, I can cut MDF all day long and the air stays cleaner then in my house. But it shows that the bandsaw lets some dust out so I know to wear a respirator when using it.

[Michael Burnside]

No bias to this answer: Buy the absolute best system you can afford that collects as much as possible, particularly the fines. It's not just about the dust collector, but also how the collection happens "at the machine". Work with a dust collector provider that specializes in that...Oneida, Clearvue, for example, for the larger systems. Opt for the best filtration offered. For more portable but with excellent filtration, Harvey G700 or Oneida SuperCell.

And even with the best dust collection system configured in the most optimal way, you should still wear PPE while generating dust because the fines are the most dangerous.

All very good advice, particularly the PPE notwithstanding a good DC! I will add that whatever DC you choose, ensure they are HEPA certified at the least. This means they guarantee to filter smaller particles than your average DC. The three Jim mentioned all offer such DCs. I'm partial to Harvey or Oneida having done my own personal research. I currently own an Oneida Supercell and love it.

Very happy to hear you are a survivor!

[Eddie Elmore]

Thank you all for your comments. I wear my PPE religiously and will continue to but like you all have said, I want to do the very best possible to eliminate dust of all sizes.

[Aaron Inami]

All four of those choices will filter dust particles well, but I do have some thoughts. I would probably NOT choose the Supercell. While it is a good product, it has very specific goals. If you have smaller bench-top type tools with dust ports in the small 2" or 2-1/2" range, then the Supercell is a better product because it has a high amount of suction and velocity for smaller hoses. When using smaller hoses like this, the CFM is horrible when using traditional dust collectors. Also, the Supercell is the loudest and can be very annoying (essentially, it's a shopvac on steroid). However, you have larger tools and sanding machines.

In your situation, I would probably go with the Jet JCDC-2 because it will move the most amount of air (highest CFM due to largest impeller size). The saw / router table / planer are not as big of a concern since they produce large particle debris (but you still want good dust collection for this anyways). It is the sanders that are the most dangerous because the dust particles are so small and airborne. You want a large diameter hose/port that will pull the most amount of air so that anything airborne will float into the dust collection. The bandsaw is going to make a mess of debris regardless of what collection system you have. The miter saw dust collection can be a challenge, but you can make a custom miter saw dust collection cabinet (see Jay Bates videos) or a downdraft cabinet to connect to the JCDC-2. I have a friend who made a downdraft cabinet for his Festool Kapex and it works extremely well.

The G-700 is very nice and has it's place. Very movable/portable. It's also the most pleasant to work with since the sound level is the quietest. You can also further reduce the sound level by turning down the speed (it's the only variable-speed option on your list). However, there are a few compromises. The grate on the 6" inlet will block larger debris that can be generated from a planer. Also, you have a fine-line on the speed when you are collecting sanding dust. If the speed is too high, the dust will completely bypass the dust bins and be pushed directly into the filter. This can clog the filter over time. Finally, it will not pull as much air/CFM as the JCDC-2 at any speed.

The Laguna is like a cheaper version of the Jet. Lower powered and smaller impeller. But likely a decent dust collector. You might have problems getting parts from Laguna after 6-8 years if Laguna discontinues this model. The JET parts will be available for 20-30 years.

Spindle sanders are likely the worst machine for someone with sensitive lungs because they have very poor dust collection. You will probably want to jerry-rig a 4" dust hose on top of the machine so that the airborne dust from the spindle is sucked away.

[roger wiegand]

A HEPA filtered powered air purifying respirator (PAPR) on top of good dust collection at the source is what's I'd be looking at in that situation. Prevent as much dust as possible from getting into the air and then stop that which does from getting into your lungs. A PAPR is _much_ more comfortable to wear all day than other kinds of masks, which means you'll be much more likely to use it.

Woodturners mostly use the versions with a hard hat and rated face shield for impact protection as well, but for general flat woodworking you could use one of the Tyvek hoods, which are much lighter (with safety glasses underneath, of course).

[Larry Frank]

I would put in a 5 hp super dust gorilla with HEPA filter. The Super cell would be my second choice. I would also place it outside the shop. It is also important to get the pick ups at each tool the best possible which likely will mean modifying your tools.

I think the spindle sander is the most hazardous due to the fine dust generated.

[Monte Milanuk]

Or... consider switching to hand tools ;)

[Aaron Rosenthal]

Or... consider switching to hand tools ;)

I don't want to hijack this thread - it's important, but there's another side to this...
Monte, I'm not sure that switching to hand tools is as effective as most people believe.
Case in point: I'm a hybrid worker, and have the cyclone collector attached to my table saw and just got a new band saw, one of the criteria was the dust collection ports available. However, I'm in the middle of a quarter-round moulding installation at my local Synagogue, and I'm doing all the cutting using a home-made miter box and a 14 TPI crosscut saw. I have a 12" Chop Saw, and it would be faster, but I didn't want to spew sawdust everywhere.
Interestingly, the amount of fine dust off the hand saw, while MUCH less than with power tools, is still significant. It's also very fine, and I'm careful to have the A/C on and flowing (I have COPD). Using hand tools is definitely NOT the only answer.

[Monte Milanuk]

Yes, there's still saw dust. But there's way less of it (look at the size of the saw kerf from a TS or MS, versus pretty much any hand saw), and it pretty much goes straight down - not spraying every where. About the only way dust from hand sawing goes airborne is from when you blow to clear the cut line, or when you're sweeping up. And that's an order of magnitude less than most operations with any power tool, unless you sink a *lot* of money into things like the 5 HP cyclone mentioned, and above average hand-held tools with dust collection designed as a first-class citizen (Festool, etc.) rather than as an after-thought. Then add in more things like a shop vac - or dust extractor (more $) and mini cyclones for *those*...

And yes, I have most of those items, and really wish I didn't. Reality being what it is, I don't see myself ditching the planer, or the bandsaw, any time soon. So yes, my comment above was made somewhat tongue in cheek. But depending on whether a person wants to nuts spending $$$ to turn their shop into a clean room ala Pentz, or just make shavings and less dust to begin with... more hand tools may be an option - and one that was being completely overlooked.

[Chris Parks]

Clearvue has a 16" impeller and if the ducting is sized correctly will flow the most air.

The best possible solution is a CV Max exhausted to atmosphere but many can't do that due to the local climate. Venting to atmosphere lifts the flow rate as well and while it might not be possible to exhaust to atmosphere in winter I would still do it when the weather is suitable and use filters at all other times. Using filters means that the dusty job of cleaning them produces a lot of dust so keep that in mind.

The best dust extractor will only be as good as the ducting design and machine ports allow. All the machines should have a 6" port to maximise the flow. All ducting should be a minimum of 6" and the use of flexible hose will kill the air flow so it should be kept to a minimum. 6" machine ports means the machines have to be modified but the extraction goes up hugely so it is worth it.

The best DE is an overall thing from machine port to the exhaust, get one part wrong and don't get the best result.

For the absolute best result buy a 3 phase machine and use a VFD to drive it from a single phase 240V power point. This gives you speed control and unlimited starts per hour.

I have only ever seen one dust extraction YT video that is worth watching and 99% of them are total rubbish, sadly I did not bookmark the one I am thinking of but he explained it very well.

Bandsaws are not a problem when set up correctly but mitre saws need a LOT of airflow and a carefully designed housing to keep the dust to a minimum.

[Alan Lightstone]

Obviously, lots of good points here. Points I'll emphasize, as sadly I've been involved in way too many surgeries on lung cancer patients. I take this topic very seriously.

1.) Get a particle meter. You need to know what's in the air. Many workers prefer the Dylos DC1100 (you want the model that measures the smallest 0.5 micron particles - that's the nasty stuff). If that's out of your budget, buy a cheaper one online (eBay, etc...). My rule for my personal woodworking is that I wear my respirator until the smallest particle count gets down to ambient. Sometimes lower. Considering your medical history, I might even wear it until it gets a little lower than ambient.

2.) PPE. It's everything here. PAPR setups are very effective, but expensive. Good respirators like the 3M P100 are also very, very good. But you have to wear whichever you choose. I have no problem wearing mine for extended periods, but I'm an anesthesiologist, so it's not like its a big deal for me to wear a mask/respirator all day.

3.) Great that you have a Jet Air Filter. I'd replace the outer replaceable filter with a higher level filtration one. In my testing, that a MERV 13 filter or higher. It will lower its CFM a little, but it's efficiency goes up, and it removes the smaller, more dangerous particles.

4.) Get the best DC you can afford. I'm partial to Oneida as I have the 5HP version, but Clearview is a good choice too. As has been said, the Harvey is also excellent, though a different paradigm. Good ducting design/implementation is important.

5.) Personally, in your situation, I wouldn't rely on only one air filter. I'd either purchase, or build a second one. You want centrifugal flow of the airborne particles. I'd probably just build a box filter. There's a good video on Ask This Old House to do this, and I can get you some online links to do it too. I put mine on a timer so that it runs for 45 minutes before I walk in the shop in the morning, and the particle count is much less than outside when I enter in the morning. Ah, nothing like clean air.

6.) Keep in mind which are the "bad" tools for generating dust. Sanders for sure. Miter saws are terrible at dust collection. Table saw, etc... No cutting corners with PPE with those.

[Ole Anderson]

Look at the filter specs. I do know that the Oneida comes with HEPA level filtration. Have had their 2 HP version for ten years. Doing it again, I would just bump up to the 3 HP model. Other comments regarding a particle counter, respirator and ambient collection are spot on.

[Chris Parks]

I advised on an installation in a Men's Shed that had rudimentary dust extraction and some members who suffered from Asthma were forced to leave the building due to poor dust control. Using the parameters I outlined above we were able to reduce the dust to almost ambient levels mainly due to the automatic blast gate system we developed. I would advise an auto BG system for ultimate dust control and Alan L. can attest to how much difference it makes. As I said above the overall result is not about using the best dust extractor but rather having the installed system work at peak efficiency. The big advantage we have in Australia is 99% of DE ducted systems exhaust to atmosphere and thus no filters.

[Atlas Ramirez]

Hey @alanlightstone, Thank you for sharing your expertise

[Alan Lightstone]

I advised on an installation in a Men's Shed that had rudimentary dust extraction and some members who suffered from Asthma were forced to leave the building due to poor dust control. Using the parameters I outlined above we were able to reduce the dust to almost ambient levels mainly due to the automatic blast gate system we developed. I would advise an auto BG system for ultimate dust control and Alan L. can attest to how much difference it makes. As I said above the overall result is not about using the best dust extractor but rather having the installed system work at peak efficiency. The big advantage we have in Australia is 99% of DE ducted systems exhaust to atmosphere and thus no filters.
No question exhausting to outside would be optimal, if your climate allowed that. A total non-starter for me in Florida on the Gulf of Mexico, but don't know your location.

And yes, automated blast gates are fantastic, but I would get top-notch equipment as mentioned above first. If then there is money floating around, my Grit Automation system is the bomb. But get the air that goes into your lungs as clean as possible first.

[Aaron Inami]

I see several people trying to recommend big 3HP and 5HP Oneida/Clearvue cyclones. While these are definitely superior solutions, they are significantly more expensive. The OP put forth 4 different options in the $2000-2600 range. We can assume that his budget is maxing out at the 2.6k point, so a $4500 cyclone is going to be way out of his budget (especially when you look at all the ducting requirements).

[Michael Burnside]

I see several people trying to recommend big 3HP and 5HP Oneida/Clearvue cyclones. While these are definitely superior solutions, they are significantly more expensive. The OP put forth 4 different options in the $2000-2600 range. We can assume that his budget is maxing out at the 2.6k point, so a $4500 cyclone is going to be way out of his budget (especially when you look at all the ducting requirements).

Yea, I recommended what I own, Supercell, which goes for is 2599 and up. Dust Gorilla 1799. Both are viable options with HEPA filtration and I can personally vouch that in my "advanced" hobbyist shop that includes an industrial CNC, the Oneida is outstanding.

I will add that they have a coupon code for $100 in accessories as well, so you can pickup a 2.5" hose for free and vacuum your whole shop, which is one thing I love about my Supercell.

[Chris Parks]

I see several people trying to recommend big 3HP and 5HP Oneida/Clearvue cyclones. While these are definitely superior solutions, they are significantly more expensive. The OP put forth 4 different options in the $2000-2600 range. We can assume that his budget is maxing out at the 2.6k point, so a $4500 cyclone is going to be way out of his budget (especially when you look at all the ducting requirements).

He put forward a range of machines which happened to be in that price range and the suggestions are of the best machines for the job which he may have not considered. It is the old story, how much value do you put on your health, me I would borrow the money if I was in his position but did not have the available funds because I think my health is worth that much to me. It always surprises me that WW's will pay extravagant amounts of money that produces the dust then won't spend enough to protect their own health. I won't debate this stuff, your choice is your choice and if the end result is health problems then so be it.

[Matt Lau]

Pardon my ignorance.

Can you somehow vent this outside? Or have your dust collector in a closet not connected to your airspace?
I'm in the process of putting together my first dust collector (Delta 50-760 + steel SDD + Wynn Merv 15 filter).

If I was building a workshop from the ground up, I'd vent out the stuff outside.
I'd also have multiple circuits, with some at 220 V....instead of a single 15 amp 110 V circuit for my entire garage/workshop.

[Bill Dufour]

Location and Climate? You can vent direct to outside if the replacement air is comfortable for you. Some fine dust will blow out and coat plants, as will some blower noise. So it depends on climate and you tolerance. As was stated earlier not a big issue in Australia. Might not work well in winter time Alaska.
Bill D
Right now on clist in my state I see a Grizzly 3hp cyclone with cartridge filter for $1,500 or. a 3hp grizzly double bag 3hp set up for $850. I would replace the bags with better.
The cyclone unit list price is 2,,800 delivered. So it is on sale for 1/2 price. Or about 2/3 the price of new units in your price range for 50% more power.
Some used units come with some amount of ducting

[Bill Dufour]

I highly recommend looking for a 3-5 hp unit on the used market. probably get one for the cost of a 2hp new unit or less. Many will replace the new or old filters with newer design smaller micron rating anyway.
Not much wear on a dust collector other then motor bearings. Not much design change in the last 100 years.
Bill D

[Aaron Inami]

Can you somehow vent this outside? Or have your dust collector in a closet not connected to your airspace?

If you are in a residential neighborhood, you will likely be violating noise constraints and creating a problem for your neighbors. If you are out on a farm with lot's of distance to your neighbors, you can likely vent outside however you want. If you do vent outside, make sure there is a door or vent opening large enough for fresh air to come into your workshop. The dust collector is basically sucking air out of your workshop. Also, be aware of any gas vent ports. You do not want any gas vapor to be sucked back into your workshop (this is stuff like water heater natural gas exhaust vents/ports).

I believe I have read that some cities have regulations/restrictions on venting outside if you are a woodworking business.

[Joel Gelman]

Congratulations on beating lung cancer!!! From the post, do you think because of your history of lung cancer you have some increased risk with dust exposure? Just curious as it does not appear that wood dust has been conclusively been shown to cause cancer

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3184400/

Do you think because perhaps you may have had part of a lobe of a lung removed due to cancer, you are more at risk of dust related problems than someone who never had lung cancer and treatment because of having less overall lung tissue? Just curious, as I saw your post and tried to find info on that. The answer would seem to influence if you need to go above and beyond what others have to do for a given level of projection or not.

I agree that PPE is everything as Alan Lightstone suggested.

[Ron Selzer]

What has ended up in my shop right now is
1-a 2hp and a 3hp fan pulling from a filter chamber that pulls from a cyclone that is hard piped with 30 gauge pipe to equipment. Wired up to start when any connected power tool starts up or a wall switch is on.
2-Rigid shop vac hooked to a small cyclone hooked to 2" schd 40 pvc that is piped around the shop for vac hoses connected to portable power tools
3-old furnace fan boxed in under the workbench with two inlets, each one has a 24x24x18or24 bag filter with a 24x24x2"or4" prefilter in front of it This fan runs when I am in the shop and a lot of times for weeks at a time. Per my wife this fan cleans the air good enough that she can come down about anytime. If this fan is off she leaves with her asthma flared up pretty fast even if I am using the other two.
I probably will make some more changes in time. However, the old furnace fan is going nowhere. I might add another one in a different part of the shop over by the belt sanders.

JUST REMEMBER the particles you can't see are the ones that get you.
Good luck
Ron

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Cancer Demons seem to have the same M.O. as Cupid,
"They don't take aim they just Bang, Bang, Bang"
We speculate about the causes of our parents cancer often. I have been wondering about the fly spray that was used a lot in the dairy barn. It was incredibly powerful and used often. The protection was to hold your breath as you sprayed on your way out. He also sprayed a lot of paint, stain, varnish and lacquer. His respirator protocol was no where close to OSHA standards.
I have read a little about the role genetics play. Dads treatment was changed recently after having a genetic profile worked up. His previous treatment was making him very sick and not slowing down the cancer. He can tolerate his new treatment and the cancer has diminished a little.

[Alan Lightstone]

Congratulations on beating lung cancer!!! From the post, do you think because of your history of lung cancer you have some increased risk with dust exposure? Just curious as it does not appear that wood dust has been conclusively been shown to cause cancer

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3184400/

I agree that PPE is everything as Alan Lightstone suggested.
A more recent meta-analysis published in Occup Environ Med would suggest that it does, though interesting not in Nordic countries where softwood dust is the primary exposure:
https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/26403531/

The study you quoted was also looking at softwood dust, not hardwood. Wood dust has been pretty conclusively linked to nasopharygeal cancers.

And another recent meta-analysis from the Journal of Exposure Science & Environmental Epidemiology shows that people in wood dust related occupations have an increased risk of developing small-cell lung cancer. (Relative risk = 1.41).
https://www.nature.com/articles/s41370-023-00538-w

I've seen WAY too many cases of mesothelioma and small-cell lung cancers (actually all pathologies of lung cancer). This protection is a small price to pay for your health. Especially as Eddie is a lung cancer survivor and legitimately concerned about this.

In my personal medical opinion (as well as clearly many others researching this), you should avoid inhaling wood dust as much as possible to protect yourself. PPE is everything if you have quality gear and its worn perfectly. Since it's difficult/impossible to wear it correctly 100% of the time, all the other measures we have discussed (air filters, good DC systems, etc...) are very important too.

End of lecture.

[Chris Parks]

To reinforce what Alan has written I was talking to my oncologist some time back (Thymoma checkup) and told him of the dust education seminars I was part of, he said that it was about time that someone started educating WW's about how dangerous fine dust really is. You can't see the airborne dust that presents the most danger so everyone assumes that picking up the big stuff has done the job when the exact opposite is the case.

Bill Pentz was the original messenger and got driven away from WW fora when he tried to educate the WW community and everyone shouted him down, the vitriol was really bad and that is the reason I won't debate dust extraction. Either accept the proven facts as we know them or don't accept them, it is your health and no one else's, mind you there are people in this world who still smoke cigarettes!!

[Chris Parks]

3hp grizzly double bag 3hp set up for $850. I would replace the bags with better.

Every bag type dust extractor ever made leaks fine dust and to make matters worse it chops up bigger particles into smaller particles as well. NEVER have one in the same workshop that you are working in.

[Rod Sheridan]

Every bag type dust extractor ever made leaks fine dust and to make matters worse it chops up bigger particles into smaller particles as well. NEVER have one in the same workshop that you are working in.

When I talk to people about dust extraction I call bag type collectors dust concentrators, as they capture the harmless large chunks and return the dangerous small particles to the shop…..Regards, Rod.

[Chris Parks]

When I talk to people about dust extraction I call bag type collectors dust concentrators, as they capture the harmless large chunks and return the dangerous small particles to the shop…..Regards, Rod.

Rod, and the response when I posted that was silence. I think it is nearly impossible to educate the hobbyist WW community with good information and the problems that micron size dust particles present to their health which sounds a bit like trying to convince everyone that smoking cigarettes is not a good thing either. Every bag type DE should have a label on it saying that it is a danger to the owners health just like cigarette packets have.

[Bill Dufour]

This was. a cyclone with filter bags after the cyclone. like a small baghouse. Are you saying that is still very bad for breathing?
Bill D

[Rod Sheridan]

This was. a cyclone with filter bags after the cyclone. like a small baghouse. Are you saying that is still very bad for breathing?
Bill D

Yes it is.

The dangerous stuff, ( small particles), go through a cyclone and on to the bags which don’t catch the small particles.

Regards, Rod

[Chris Parks]

I wrote a reply to Bill's question but I must have not pressed the go button. Bags leak as Rod has explained and cyclones are inefficient because that is how they separate air from dust, I guess the bags substituted for filters. The bloke who thought up the idea should have been made to breath in the dust from the exhaust for a few days and then decide whether it was a good idea or not. It is not only the bag itself leaking but a bag always leaks around the flange it attaches to so these types of DE should never be used in the work space. Put them in a cabinet if the air is recirculated and return the air via good HEPA filters to the work space or exhaust them to atmosphere. My experience with bag DE's is that none of them have impellers bigger than 14" and that is a marginal size to flow enough air. I bet very few people could say how big the impeller is in their DE that has bags. I have said it before, HP means nothing, the impeller size is everything as long as the motor can spin the impeller to full speed.

[Alan Lightstone]

My hunch from viewing woodworkers (you really can't go by YouTube as people are speaking and therefore aren't wearing their PPE) is that most woodworkers are sadly lackadaisical about wearing good ventilators/PPE.

So, excellent, and perhaps overkill air filters really play a big role here. Workshops need good air filters, with high level filtration filters on them, and they need to be turned on. That way, if your mask is leaking, or you're not wearing it, at least large amounts of the airborne particles will be filtered out. While clearly good dust collection at the source from a good cyclone is extremely important, and should be the first step (collect the dust at the source), at least this helps in situations where people don't have great dust collectors.

Chris's suggestion regarding putting bag DEs in a cabinet with HEPA filters is a really good one. Not a solution for everyone, but a relatively simple, effective one in many cases. And people will be astounded at how dirty the HEPA filters get, proving how bad bag dust extractors are in removing small particles.

Eddie: Which system did you decide to purchase?

[Chris Parks]

So, excellent, and perhaps overkill air filters really play a big role here. Workshops need good air filters, with high level filtration filters on them, and they need to be turned on. That way, if your mask is leaking, or you're not wearing it, at least large amounts of the airborne particles will be filtered out. While clearly good dust collection at the source from a good cyclone is extremely important, and should be the first step (collect the dust at the source), at least this helps in situations where people don't have great dust collectors.

To be honest with you I never wear respirator protection, the dust levels in my workshop are very low as I have all windows and doors open and I try and collect most dust and debris at the machine. The average temp here during a winter's day is in upper teens Celsius and most days a shirt is all I need, in summer I relax in the AC cooled house when it gets too hot. Having to work in recirculated air puts a different angle on things and it should make WW's even more aware of DE. I have seen it said needing an air filter just means that the DE system is not good enough. Having said that dust collection on a mitre saw is like rounding up cats and hand and machine sanding along with lathes are also major dust culprits as well so good air filtration is needed in a closed environment along with PPE. I would install filters so they are easy to change because if a job is hard it gets ignored.