30" X 7ft top glue up

[Brian Runau]

1st time gluing up a top this length. Any advantage is doing it in two 15" sections then gluing these two pcs vs doing it all at one time?

[lou Brava]

I did a 40" x 94" top seven boards & did it in 2 glue ups seemed easier to control and came out great. The only advantage I found was it seemed way less stressful than some other ones I tried to tackle all at once.

[Dave Zellers]

if you are only gluing 5-6 boards, I would do it all at once.

But prepare everything in advance and have it right there. Do a dry run so you know everything is where you want it.

Use cauls covered in packing tape to keep it flat.

[Bryan Lisowski]

Breaking it into 2 sections would be best for flattening after glue up, provided you have a 15+ inch planer.

[Kent A Bathurst]

if you are only gluing 5-6 boards, I would do it all at once

You’re a better man than I am, Gunga Din.

I’m a weenie. I do one joint at a time.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Do it in three 10" sections. If bottom isn't visible, then pocket screw it together on bottom side

[Dave Sabo]

Do it in three 10" sections. If bottom isn't visible, then pocket screw it together on bottom side


:eek:

sacrilege

[Michael Burnside]

I’d do it all at once but do what makes you most comfortable. I’ve done so many like this that I don’t get nervous anymore. Just have everything ready to go and if this is your first big glue up, do a dry run.

Some things to help you
- use cauls or dominos or dowels to help alignment (you don’t need to glue dominos/dowels or over do the number)
- glue one side and smear/roll the glue on covering all parts of the edge
- stack the boards in order over clamps on their edges
- clamp loosely at first and slowly tighten evenly
- don’t over tighten - the glue is what holds the boards not the clamps!!!
- I also prefer to use small clamps and pinch between every seam at both ends

Good luck!

[Rob Sack]

I did a solid 8/4 walnut dining table top that was 42 x 108 in a single glue up, and that was tough but doable and all the joints were perfect. Following that, I had to glue up another 8/4 table top that was 48 x 96 and I decided to do it in two glue ups. As accurate and precise as my equipment is, getting a perfect joint down the middle on the second glue up was close to impossible. It was close to perfect, but not as perfect as the other joints. If I had to do it again, I would definitely do it in one glue up and use Titebond Extend, which gives a longer open time. If the water resistance of Titebond II is not necessary, (Titebond II is available in the Extend version, too), I would use regular Titebond Extend, which according to Titebond, offers the least amount of creep of any of their wood glues, including Titebond II Extend.

[Mel Fulks]

I did them all at once . Ripped off any sap wood. Laid out ,and marked best order. Machine jointed all edges straight. Then raised
outfeed table a couple thou. to make “sprung joints” . Applied glue to both edges of all pieces , put spring clamps on ends to hold even while clamping.
I put a board on and under the middle of whole thing and clamped both ends to flatten middle. Added bar clamps, when total width exceeded planer or sander width I did 2 halves, separately, then jointed and glued the two sections together. Sometimes there would then be some machine planing when material thickness allowed, and sometimes I had to just belt sand ,then orbital sand.
Good to have multiple tellings here as I doubt any of us have editors. Hey, that method is even used with that NUCLEAR stuff !

[John Erickson]

I do wide glue ups a lot, I'd suggest diluting your yellow glue with 5% water to lengthen the opening time. Some people use splines, biscuits or dowels but I use nothing. Make sure you ready and organized so you can get it glued up in a timely fashion without stress and screwing it up.

[Lee Schierer]

I would do it in multiple glue ups. It is easier to get the pieces aligned before the glue starts to set up with only one or two glue lines to address. Subsequent clean up goes faster.

[Alan Lightstone]

I’d do it all at once but do what makes you most comfortable. I’ve done so many like this that I don’t get nervous anymore. Just have everything ready to go and if this is your first big glue up, do a dry run.

Some things to help you
- use cauls or dominos or dowels to help alignment (you don’t need to glue dominos/dowels or over do the number)
- glue one side and smear/roll the glue on covering all parts of the edge
- stack the boards in order over clamps on their edges
- clamp loosely at first and slowly tighten evenly
- don’t over tighten - the glue is what holds the boards not the clamps!!!
- I also prefer to use small clamps and pinch between every seam at both ends

Good luck!

I use the exact same process except I do glue the dominos.

[Jim Becker]

Two sections first is generally easier to deal with but part of the decision comes down to how well the boards fit together...if your material prep and machining was done well and you have a good surface to support the whole thing for clamping from the get-go, there's certainly no harm in doing it as one assembly. It's probably best to use a glue that has a much longer working time, however, so you don't have to rush as you work to keep things aligned during the clamping process. I personally do like to use Dominos for something like this to assure the top surface across the assembly stays in-plane...an alignment aid.

[Ron Citerone]

Depends on your experience level. If you feel concerned glue up in stages. Stages means less rush with glue set up and less moving parts.

[John TenEyck]

One glue up or one at a time. Two 15" sections are massively heavy and nearly impossible to run through the jointer to straighten the edges for the next glue up, and also impossible to close any gaps. So you are stuck using a hand plane. If all the boards fit perfectly before glue up then you will be able to pull each new board flat against those already glued.

I'd do it in one glue up with TB II Extend or TB II + 5% water.

John

[Brian Runau]

Ok, thanks to everyone for their input, leaning towards two sections then the final glue up. Honestly never had any better success using cauls VS managing the joints as I go. May be user error. I get pretty good glue ups on shorter lengths. This is my first top over 4ft. 1st ?, domino's or biscuits? 2nd ? I use Titebond III as my std glue on all projects, what I have read says this has the most open working time, not correct? Thanks again. Brian

[Michael Burnside]

I don't like cauls very much either Brian, but the clamping of the ends is important if you don't use them (see my first post). That said, anything over around 4ft and I generally use 1 domino at the ends and a couple in key places depending on if I'm going for a waterfall or breaking the glue-up into pieces after. Before I had my domino, I used dowels.

I prefer TBII as it sands easier, but TBIII should work fine.

[Richard Coers]

Depends on the quality of your jointing. A couple of times I glued up in sections and the seam between the 2 assemblies was not as good as I wanted any longer. Jointing two 15"x84" sections is not fun.

[Michael Burnside]

Depends on the quality of your jointing. A couple of times I glued up in sections and the seam between the 2 assemblies was not as good as I wanted any longer. Jointing two 15"x84" sections is not fun.

That brings up a good point Richard. I always use the in/out (jointing) or up/down (table saw) method on glue-up edges of every glue-up I do. Maybe it's sometimes overkill, but it's part of my standard operating procedure for any appreciably sized 2+ board glue-up.

[John TenEyck]

TB III has much higher creep a lot more than II or Original. You will feel the joints with seasonal changes in RH much more so with TB III than the other two. TB III has longer open time than the other two, but TB II Extend is even longer.

John

[Brian Runau]

TB III has much higher creep a lot more than II or Original. You will feel the joints with seasonal changes in RH much more so with TB III than the other two. TB III has longer open time than the other two, but TB II Extend is even longer.

John

When you say creep you mean the sliding up down between glue faces? Thanks brian

[John TenEyck]

Yes, but it's elastic because the forces are on both sides of center so it's not permanent, only seasonal. If the grain is a really good match between each joint then the effect will be minimal/unnoticeable. But if you get rift sawn to plain or quarter sawn, you'll feel it for sure.

John