What species for a patio set rebuild?

[John Svo]

I have an old patio table/chair set where all the surfaces (tabletop, seatback, arms, etc) came as an unusual synthetic decking type material that has finally cracked-through in places. The manufacturer is long gone so I can't replace with like. The frames are pretty well made aluminum and still look good so I'm thinking to re-deck the set. I talked to a hardwood source about teak but they said it would need to be at least 3/4" actual to resist cupping. That thick would look a little odd (original material is less than 1/2") and make the chairs heavy. Open to synthetic options too but most are VERY heavy.

Ideas for the best species for this? Alaskan yellow cedar seems like it might fit the bill but I've never seen it let alone worked with it. And I can't find it in Colorado. Be a shame to throw out good frames and new patio furniture is $$$- way more than even teak.

Thanks!

JD

[Doug Garson]

How about making your own Teak plywood? Resaw teak into 1/8" thick veneers, glue up three layers alternating grain direction and you have 3/8" Teak plywood. Glue selection would be critical, Titebond 3 or epoxy?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Western Red Cedar (3/4 inch and quarter sawn), Cypress, Redwood, White Oak, Black Locust, one of the Asian varieties in the Aoitong family. Teak really would be a good choice.

[John Svo]

Western Red Cedar (3/4 inch and quarter sawn), Cypress, Redwood, White Oak, Black Locust, one of the Asian varieties in the Aoitong family. Teak really would be a good choice.
Cedar and redwood too soft. Plywood would need to be marine type- not sure much sticks well to that. Cypress is an idea- not sure what i can find in the region tho. White oak weather resistant? Don't know black locust. Many of the Asian tropicals are very dense and heavy. Good thoughts!

[Kent A Bathurst]

I have a teak set that is maybe 35 years old. Had it included with house we bought. Nice grey and covered with lichen

Table is 48” octagonal. Top is 1/2” x 2” boards. It has 3/4” x 2” breadboard edges all the way around. No war p or nothing

Chairs have same 1/2” slats for seat and back. Use cushions on the seat. No problems. Not sure what your designs are but all the chair surfaces are framed in with 3/4”

[John Svo]

I have a teak set that is maybe 35 years old. Had it included with house we bought. Nice grey and covered with lichen

Table is 48” octagonal. Top is 1/2” x 2” boards. It has 3/4” x 2” breadboard edges all the way around. No war p or nothing

Chairs have same 1/2” slats for seat and back. Use cushions on the seat. No problems. Not sure what your designs are but all the chair surfaces are framed in with 3/4”

Right. I pushed back on the lumber supplier- I'm no teak expert but seems to me the 1/2"x4" boards I was asking for (supported every 12-18") would be fine if the grain is good. Was he just wrong?

[Lee Schierer]

I have an out door porch type swing made from Western Red Cedar (much lighter than teak in weight and on the wallet) that has been outside all summer long for over 20 years and is still going strong. A annual spray with bleach kills the algae and an occasional light power wash keeps it looking good. Just be sure to use stainless steel fasteners to avoid black staining on the wood and corrosion to your aluminum frames.

[James Jayko]

How about making your own Teak plywood? Resaw teak into 1/8" thick veneers, glue up three layers alternating grain direction and you have 3/8" Teak plywood. Glue selection would be critical, Titebond 3 or epoxy?

If I were making plywood, I'd probably use Unibond 800.

[Derek Cohen]

I have an old patio table/chair set where all the surfaces (tabletop, seatback, arms, etc) came as an unusual synthetic decking type material that has finally cracked-through in places. The manufacturer is long gone so I can't replace with like. The frames are pretty well made aluminum and still look good so I'm thinking to re-deck the set. I talked to a hardwood source about teak but they said it would need to be at least 3/4" actual to resist cupping. That thick would look a little odd (original material is less than 1/2") and make the chairs heavy. Open to synthetic options too but most are VERY heavy.

Ideas for the best species for this? Alaskan yellow cedar seems like it might fit the bill but I've never seen it let alone worked with it. And I can't find it in Colorado. Be a shame to throw out good frames and new patio furniture is $$$- way more than even teak.

Thanks!

JD

Hi JD

Do you have access to Merbau?

https://www.wood-database.com/merbau/

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Info regarding Black Locust and a mention of Sassafras, Red Mulberry, and Butternut

Black Locust Lumber and Decking - Robi Decking (https://robidecking.com/)

[Kent A Bathurst]

Right. I pushed back on the lumber supplier- I'm no teak expert but seems to me the 1/2"x4" boards I was asking for (supported every 12-18") would be fine if the grain is good. Was he just wrong?


I can't judge his comments without knowing more about his store and experience. Maybe this is some 3d-hand knowledge? Maybe he doesn't have any 1/2" teak, only 3/4"? Maybe he was involved with a project that went south? One data point does not an actuality make.

I can tell you I don't agree with him.

[Bill Howatt]

I had a Western Red Cedar round picnic table set and it lasted at least 20 years. It's main problem was in the fastening - it had nails driven in from the top surface and this created little wells for rainwater to sit and that's what it takes for rot. If it had been a less rot-resistant wood it wouldn't have lasted as long as it did. So my comment is to make sure you don't have, or at least minimize, anywhere water might collect regardless of what species you select. Stainless fasteners is also a very good suggestion. I have a cedar sided house and used SS nails to avoid black marks.

[John Svo]

Hi JD

Do you have access to Merbau?

https://www.wood-database.com/merbau/

Regards from Perth

Derek

Don't think so- never heard of it but like the looks.

[Doug Garson]

Don't think so- never heard of it but like the looks.
Check out a flooring supplier or Craigslist, I picked up some prefinished Merbau flooring leftovers from a flooring job (free). After resawing to remove the finish you end up with around 1/2" thickness. It would be excellent for your application.

[John Svo]

Check out a flooring supplier or Craigslist, I picked up some prefinished Merbau flooring leftovers from a flooring job (free). After resawing to remove the finish you end up with around 1/2" thickness. It would be excellent for your application.

That's a good idea. May end up with heavy chairs but at least it would be cheap. Jatoba is another option in that category of indoor flooring species that work outdoors.

[Clint Baxter]

That's a good idea. May end up with heavy chairs but at least it would be cheap. Jatoba is another option in that category of indoor flooring species that work outdoors.

Some other selections include the list of outdoor decking species such as Ipe, Cumaru, Goncalo Alves, (sometimes called Tigerwood), Massaranduba, and Garapa. All of them are available from https://www.advantagelumber.com/wood-decking.htm
.