What tool do I need?

[Rob Luter]

I’ve been looking for a plane of some kind to round edges and create bullnoses. I’ve always used a block plane to first chamfer and then refine, finishing up with sandpaper. It’s not always as uniform as I’d like. My thought was that a hollow molding plane might do the trick. I found a 1/2” version this week at an antique mall and after a few hours of fettling it works ok. I’m wondering if there’s a better option? Maybe a concave spokeshave? Maybe just refine my existing technique?

Thoughts?

[steven c newman]

The Stanley No.45 had extra cutters for such operations, and used a add-on sole to match. There was even one designed for that type of edge found on stair treads...

[Rob Luter]

I have a #45. Maybe I’ll try to track down some cutters that won’t break the bank. The hollow molding plane set me back $14. I’m guessing a single cutter will be more. Thus begins the quest.

[Tom M King]

You obviously need a whole set of Hollows and Rounds.:)

[Rob Luter]

You obviously need a whole set of Hollows and Rounds.:)

Like I need a hole in the head :D

Following the great tool purge of 2019 I made a vow that I would only add to the working kit for reasons of utility.

[Tom M King]

In order to have the exact tool you need when you need it, you need one of each and multiples of some always at hand.

[Rafael Herrera]

What size bullnoses?
You could remove most of the waste with a jack plane, finish with a hollow plane.

I've found large size H or R planes in the wild more frequently than the smaller sizes.

[David Carroll]

I have a full (okay well half) set of hollows and rounds, and will break them out when I have a lot of roundovers to do, but if it's just a small amount, I use a block plane and a scraper that I ground to a contour a long time ago to smooth the radius. It only takes a few minutes. Stanley made a purpose made corner rounding plane in several radii. I've never used one, but I see them on some of the fancy tool dealers sites, (Jim Bode, Supertools etc.). Might be worth looking for one if you need it or just want it.

DC

[Jim Koepke]

Rob, as far as Hollows and Rounds go, you may only need a few; small, medium & large. If you aren't going to get in to the making of molding you won't need the rounds.

Hollow planes can be used to make bullnose edges.

A bullnose plane is pretty much made to work only one size:

500790

This one has two blades.

If you are lucky you might find these planes.

The set up for the Stanley #45 are not common and a search for a current listing on ebay was unsuccessful. I purchased on years ago and have never actually used it. The wooden molding planes are easier to get working.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

What size bullnoses? You could remove most of the waste with a jack plane, finish with a hollow plane.

I've found large size H or R planes in the wild more frequently than the smaller sizes.

For today I'm rounding the edge of some 1/2" thick stock. I spent some time yesterday developing a process much like you suggest. I'm knocking the corners off with a block plane, then following up with the 1/2" hollow molding plane. The plane still needs ro tweaks so it will take a uniformly fine shaving. The shape of the hollow has worn over time and doesn't match the cutter very well. I trued up the bottom with my shooting plane and got most of the way there on the hollow with sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Another hour or so and it will be cutting better than ever.




Rob, as far as Hollows and Rounds go, you may only need a few; small, medium & large. If you aren't going to get in to the making of molding you won't need the rounds.

jtk

That's my thought. I'm never going to make molding and just looked at the hollows as a cheap investment to do this sort of thing. Once I get the plane dialed in it will do a good job. Maybe I can find a bigger version too.

[steven c newman]

Have you ever thought to use the"Bead" cutters for the Stanley #45? Use the fenc to hide the left quirk,,,and leave the right one hanging in mid air...keep pressure against the fence to keep the plane vertical..

[Rob Luter]

Have you ever thought to use the"Bead" cutters for the Stanley #45? Use the fenc to hide the left quirk,,,and leave the right one hanging in mid air...keep pressure against the fence to keep the plane vertical..

Actually yes. The one cutter I have for my #45 is a bead cutter of the approximate size I need. Unfortunately there’s no way to control depth of cut. I learned that immediately. Let’s just say it wasn’t pretty. :eek:

[Jim Koepke]

Actually yes. The one cutter I have for my #45 is a bead cutter of the approximate size I need. Unfortunately there’s no way to control depth of cut. I learned that immediately. Let’s just say it wasn’t pretty. :eek:

Every once in a while a modified beading blade has come my way. They have one side of the blade removed to make a round over blade.

In my opinion, finding a selection of hollows will be a better solution. They will not only do a nice round over edge, they can be used to make a bullnose edge.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Let the fence ride on a batten, set to the depth YOU want to stop at...simple as that...

[Jim Koepke]

Just for fun and to answer another question from the past a trip to the shop took place and a #4 hollow (1/4") was used to round over a corner:

There are a few things to practice before doing this:

500826

In this image my finger tips are being used to keep the top edge of the blade from touching the work.


500823

If one is not careful the quirk points can leave a mark at the edge of the rounding. This can be cleaned up with a smoothing plane but can ruin a clean round over.

An alternative way to round the corner is to create rabbets on the two sides of the corner:

500824

This can be impressive:

500825

Finally a #16 (1") hollow was used to round over the entire edge of this 4/4 piece of alder:

500822

Almost a full bullnose, most folks wouldn't notice. An actual bullnose plane would do a complete half diameter cut as in my earlier post. That plane was later used to turn that piece into an approximately 1-1/2" dowel.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Just for fun and to answer another question from the past a trip to the shop took place and a #4 hollow (1/4") was used to round over a corner:

There are a few things to practice before doing this:

500826

In this image my finger tips are being used to keep the top edge of the blade from touching the work.


500823

If one is not careful the quirk points can leave a mark at the edge of the rounding. This can be cleaned up with a smoothing plane but can ruin a clean round over.

An alternative way to round the corner is to create rabbets on the two sides of the corner:

500824

This can be impressive:

500825

Finally a #16 (1") hollow was used to round over the entire edge of this 4/4 piece of alder:

500822

Almost a full bullnose, most folks wouldn't notice. An actual bullnose plane would do a complete half diameter cut as in my earlier post. That plane was later used to make this into an approximately 1-1/2" dowel.

jtk

Thanks for the suggestions. It’s a shame you are nearly 2,300 miles away. I’d like a demo :D

[Rob Luter]

Let the fence ride on a batten, set to the depth YOU want to stop at...simple as that...

I little more complicated than that, as there's no way to separate the thickness of shaving from depth of cut. I tried to finesse it with my hands but the cutter just dove in deep on contact.

Here's the good news......

I put a little more time into getting the bottom of the plane trued up to I can take a uniform thin shaving. I stop when the top of the edge I'm planing isn't flat anymore. I still have a little more depth to add to the hollow form as the ends of the cutter (quirks in beading cutter vernacular) poke out a little more as you can see in the photo below.

I did some digging into what I have and it's an H. Chapin molding plane made in the Union Factory. My research suggests that these sorts of planes are numbered as to the radius in 1/16" increments that they cut. This one doesn't seem to follow the pattern. It's marked with an "H" on the end. The cutter is 1/2" wide. H is the eighth letter of the alphabet. 8/16 = 1/2". Coincidence? It cuts a radius closer to 1/4" though. The bottom was shaped using sandpaper wrapped around a 1/2" dowel. I guess I have another Rabbit hole to go down.

All of that is really moot as it shapes a bullnose on the stock thickness I wanted it to.


https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52874813582_21ffda39dc_b.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52875836163_48dca7a759_h.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52874813537_7120e1e0fc_b.jpg

[Jim Koepke]

I still have a little more depth to add to the hollow form as the ends of the cutter (quirks in beading cutter vernacular) poke out a little more as you can see in the photo below.

This seems to be common on hollows. My theory is it has to do with being easier to get a slip stone or a dowel wrapped in sandpaper into the curve than it is to work the points. Former users likely did more honing in the center of the blade than at the points.

So far it looks like you are doing well without a demo.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Hmmm...No Demo...but..
501118
"We have ways.."
501119
(Left hand was busy with the camera)

Seymour Smith & Son Double Spokeshave...
501120
Seems to work better than a screaming Router Table does..
501121
Slat being rounded over is 1/2" thick, by 2" wide...