I need to taper a 3" sq leg.

[Brian Runau]

The height of the blade on my table saw won't let me cut all the way through the 3"`s with the thickness of my base on the tapering jig. Appreciate any suggestions. Brian

[John Lanciani]

Bandsaw...

[Ron Citerone]

Perhaps you could use your table saw taper jig and cut the taper as deep as you can. Then finish the cut on the band saw. Clean up with jointer or block plane.

[Paul F Franklin]

If you have a jointer, it's pretty easy to taper on it. Plenty of vids on the tube... Count your passes on each face to get all the legs symmetrical.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

There were some post about planer sleds not too long ago. I can imagine an adaptation of a planer sled. Table saw / bandsaw combo seems sensible too, as does the jointer. Or bandsaw and plane or jointer.

[Brian Runau]

If you have a jointer, it's pretty easy to taper on it. Plenty of vids on the tube... Count your passes on each face to get all the legs symmetrical.

Paul, thanks. I will try this. Brian

[Ron Selzer]

Paul has it right

[Steve Eure]

Check out this video. This is an easy way to do it, but you have to make a fence for your TS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOrh-rYRlMw
He explains at around 3:20 in the video. Good luck.

[Brian Runau]

Check out this video. This is an easy way to do it, but you have to make a fence for your TS.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BOrh-rYRlMw
He explains at around 3:20 in the video. Good luck.


Another jig, but that would work. Thanks Brian

[Brian Runau]

Perhaps you could use your table saw taper jig and cut the taper as deep as you can. Then finish the cut on the band saw. Clean up with jointer or block plane.

I would have a 1/8" piece to remove by hand, and for me, this is fraught with potential errors. Brian

[Brian Runau]

If you have a jointer, it's pretty easy to taper on it. Plenty of vids on the tube... Count your passes on each face to get all the legs symmetrical.

Paul, watched a video and it is pretty simple as long as I lay it out correctly and flow the proper steps. My one concern is the operation is going to leave me with the final face of the leg and if there is a problem with tear out of any sort, I either live with it or start over. I have new blades installed etc, but.... I think the sled Steve is suggesting, although a little work to make it, leaves me a better % chance of getting a good face after milling. Thanks. Brian

[Prashun Patel]

Do you own a bandsaw and jack plane? I use these. It's more accurate and safer. It's also not considerably slower than a jointer for small jobs.

Mark the faces with a pencil line, bandsaw them to +1/8". Re-mark if necessary; hand plane to the line.

Assuming the grain started straight, you'll be planing down hill, so there will be low risk of tear out.

It's a useful technique to learn, because it can also be used to make tapered bevels.

[John TenEyck]

I've made quite a few with a bandsaw, often with a taper jig just like you would use on a TS, then a pass on the jointer, then a hand plane or sandpaper. It's a quick, straight forward process.

Bandsaws are amazingly versatile. I'm not sure why people never consider using a taper jig with the bandsaw, but it works just as well as a TS if it's set up to cut straight and parallel with the fence.

John

[Thomas McCurnin]

I've tapered legs with a hand saw and a sharp jack plane. Just scribe the taper on the leg, cut as close as you care to and use the jack plane to finish it off.

It would probably take less than 20 minutes per leg.

[Bill Dufour]

My Delta 12/14 tablesaw crosscuts 4x4 with room to spare.. It is basically a unisaw on steroids. About 30% bigger all around. They often go cheaper then a unisaw just because they are bigger and harder to move. I got mine for $120. I swapped out. the 5hp three phase motor.
You need two big guys to take off the table top. two guys pushed it up a ramp into my truck.
Sometimes sold as a unisaw or just a tablesaw. You have to look at the pictures. throat plate is rectangular and the front door is not square
Bill D.
Two on ebay now for $1,200 which is ten times what I paid.

[David M Peters]

I'd cast another vote for bandsaw plus hand plane. You probably already have these tools and it's a safe & controlled way to finish the job.

[Brian Runau]

My Delta 12/14 tablesaw crosscuts 4x4 with room to spare.. It is basically a unisaw on steroids. About 30% bigger all around. They often go cheaper then a unisaw just because they are bigger and harder to move. I got mine for $120. I swapped out. the 5hp three phase motor.
You need two big guys to take off the table top. two guys pushed it up a ramp into my truck.
Sometimes sold as a unisaw or just a tablesaw. You have to look at the pictures. throat plate is rectangular and the front door is not square
Bill D.
Two on ebay now for $1,200 which is ten times what I paid.
Could you sell this to your wife? Honey, indeed a new ts, so I can make this one cut after 15+ years using the tool I have! I am pretty sure I can't sell that even though I am a retired Salesman. Brian

[Michael Burnside]

Maybe I'm being daft but so what if it doesn't cut all the way through? So you cut say half way. Then use a bandsaw to cut the rest off (assuming you have one of those), and then a flush trim bit from the other side. Seems easy enough. I've done exactly this on 12/4 walnut legs.

Some other good ideas posted already, just wasn't sure if I was missing something about the taper that was more complicated than that.

[James Jayko]

Bandsaw handplane boomdone.

[Brian Runau]

Maybe I'm being daft but so what if it doesn't cut all the way through? So you cut say half way. Then use a bandsaw to cut the rest off (assuming you have one of those), and then a flush trim bit from the other side. Seems easy enough. I've done exactly this on 12/4 walnut legs.

Some other good ideas posted already, just wasn't sure if I was missing something about the taper that was more complicated than that.

Michael. let me try and explain my approach here. Please don't take my words as being a smart a__ or condescending, because I am not trying to be that, I am going for sincere.

I am a member here because many of the members here are more experienced and have a greater skill set than I do. I can teach myself to do anything and this is one of the things I love about woodworking, that and now I am retired I can do down to my basement and play when I feel like it. I had a couple ideas of how to go about this, but one of the reasons I come here is to get input from the more experienced folks here. Members shared some of what I knew and felt comfortable doing and other ideas I had no experience with. Like, using the jointer to taper a leg, never been exposed to that or building the jig so I can run the lumber right on the top of the table saw eliminating the height problem, but using the side jig to help me transfer the angle onto the leg. I think this is best for me, gives me safety and great repeatability. Certainly considered making a template, cutting part way through and then finishing on a bandsaw (I only have a small 6" table top unit) that does not do a great job then using a flush trim bit to clean it up. I'd ave the expense of the bit since I don't have one now that would cover the 3". So considering my skill set, tools, costs, the jig idea seems to work best for me and not something I was aware of before asking the question.

recently taught myself to do templates and make curved legs for an end table I made from walnut. First curved legs I had done before. Brian

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[Tom M King]

I use a form of "taper jig" on a bandsaw to make shingles. It has a tall fence. Could also be called a sled. It would make quick work out of this job, but would take longer to cobble up the "jig" than to use it, even on a small saw.

[Michael Burnside]

Michael. let me try and explain my approach here. Please don't take my words as being a smart a__ or condescending, because I am not trying to be that, I am going for sincere.

I am a member here because many of the members here are more experienced and have a greater skill set than I do. I can teach myself to do anything and this is one of the things I love about woodworking, that and now I am retired I can do down to my basement and play when I feel like it. I had a couple ideas of how to go about this, but one of the reasons I come here is to get input from the more experienced folks here. Members shared some of what I knew and felt comfortable doing and other ideas I had no experience with. Like, using the jointer to taper a leg, never been exposed to that or building the jig so I can run the lumber right on the top of the table saw eliminating the height problem, but using the side jig to help me transfer the angle onto the leg. I think this is best for me, gives me safety and great repeatability. Certainly considered making a template, cutting part way through and then finishing on a bandsaw (I only have a small 6" table top unit) that does not do a great job then using a flush trim bit to clean it up. I'd ave the expense of the bit since I don't have one now that would cover the 3". So considering my skill set, tools, costs, the jig idea seems to work best for me and not something I was aware of before asking the question.

recently taught myself to do templates and make curved legs for an end table I made from walnut. First curved legs I had done before. Brian

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Brian, I take no offense or interpret any of this as condescending. I was genuinely trying to understand the issue. Whenever I have a problem like this I might go about it in a few different ways depending on if I need to make more than one of the same object and symmetry/dimensions/fitment matter. And of course, this is all predicated on what tools I have in my own shop and what tools I prefer to use. I've used the Jointer method, and it works great sometimes, but I don't like to use it when my stock is wide and I'm left with passing individual pieces across one at a time and shooting for symmetry. Furthermore if the angle is acute and/or the jointing edge short, I don't think it's all that great/safe/repeatable. I genuinely was trying to understand why a safe, repeatable and universal method wasn't yet suggested.

The good thing about woodworking is that we can all get there in different ways. The even better thing, is we can use the excuse that we can't yet employ the other method and buy the "thing" that helps us get there :D

Very nice piece you have there, and templates are great! I'm working on one right now myself as I have a large curve in a set of legs I'm making that require each leg be made of two pieces!

[Jacques Gagnon]

Brian,

You have received great input so far; I just want to clarify one point.

The suggestion made by Michael to cut on the bandsaw and then finish with a flush trim bit does not require you to have a 3 inch flush trim cutter. You may already have what you need (I do not know the extent of your router accessories) since you only need to bridge the distance between the portion cut on the table saw and the remaining portion cut with the bandsaw. The table saw portion (let’s assume 2 inches high) would provide the reference surface for the bearing on the flush trim bit. This would leave you with about 1 inch of material to remove.

By the way, congratulations on your end table. Well done!

Regards,

J.

[Michael Burnside]

Thank you Jacques, I believe that is an important point I failed to make.

Cheers,

[Jacques Gagnon]

…team work! ;)

[Brian Runau]

Brian,

You have received great input so far; I just want to clarify one point.

The suggestion made by Michael to cut on the bandsaw and then finish with a flush trim bit does not require you to have a 3 inch flush trim cutter. You may already have what you need (I do not know the extent of your router accessories) since you only need to bridge the distance between the portion cut on the table saw and the remaining portion cut with the bandsaw. The table saw portion (let’s assume 2 inches high) would provide the reference surface for the bearing on the flush trim bit. This would leave you with about 1 inch of material to remove.

By the way, congratulations on your end table. Well done!

Regards,

J.

Jaques, thanks. Some days I am "Thick as a brick." Jethro Tull reference. Brian

[Brian Runau]

Michael, thanks. Brian

[Jacques Gagnon]

Jaques, thanks. Some days I am "Thick as a brick." Jethro Tull reference. Brian

…that’s ok Brian. After all, learning is often about « facing the music » 😁

[Jacques Gagnon]

…and Ian Anderson might say that if you hear voices while working in the shop they may be … « songs from the wood »

[Ron Citerone]

I would have a 1/8" piece to remove by hand, and for me, this is fraught with potential errors. Brian
If your taper jig is 1/8” off the tables as your point here suggests, maybe
make your legs 2 7/8” ???

[Brian Runau]

I built a simple version of the L sled. Had all the stuff left over in my shop, bonus. Mill to finish size and taper tomorrow. Thanks everyone. Brian

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