Unisaw- Shark Guard riving knife or MJ splitter

[jay gill]

I just picked up a new-to-me Unisaw (34-801) and am trying to decide if I should use the MicroJig splitters or The SharkGuard riving knife.

My previous saw was a Ridgid TS-3660 and I used the MJ splitters.

I generally prefer ZCI with whatever I end up using and was wondering if anyone uses the Shark Guard riving knife and has any opinions they would like to share.

Also looking for any thoughts or options overall on the choice.

Thanks!

[Jason White]

SharkGuard all the way. Have had them on two different cabinet saws. Great quality and Lee Styron is great to work with.

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a shark guard blade guard. Good quality. Glad to have it.
I think I remember reading that Lee Styron died a couple years ago, but that his son took over.

FWIW.
Fred

[Marc Fenneuff]

I have a Shark on a PM66 and Unisaw. The company continues to be a pleasure to deal with. Recommended.

[Geoff Crimmins]

Another option is the Delta Disappearing Splitter. When you don't need it you just remove the throat plate and push the splitter under the table. Then pull it back up when you do need it. I've also heard good things about the Shark Guard.

[Patrick Varley]

I just picked up a new-to-me Unisaw (34-801) and am trying to decide if I should use the MicroJig splitters or The SharkGuard riving knife.

My previous saw was a Ridgid TS-3660 and I used the MJ splitters.

I generally prefer ZCI with whatever I end up using and was wondering if anyone uses the Shark Guard riving knife and has any opinions they would like to share.

Also looking for any thoughts or options overall on the choice.

Thanks!
Another vote for the Shark Guard. I started with just the riving knife on a SawStop ICS then the dust collection. Absolutely no complaints. I think that's one of the nice things: You can start with the riving knife and simply add the guard/dust collection later.

Speaking generally, a riving knife is better than a splitter since the gap between blade and knife is minimized. The one issue is that on some of the Unisaws you would use their ARK Guard. With those, the knife does not move in conjunction with the blade, so you have to use a quick adjust to reposition the knife whenever you adjust the blade height. As others have mentioned, if you reach out to Shark Guard with your saw model they can give you all the details.

[Matt Day]

Shark Guard ARK all the way! I have 2, one for each saw and they are the best thing out there for these old saws. I had a Delta disappearing splitter for a while and it was okay and added safety, but the dust collection was the main selling point for the SG for me.
And they are a great family/company, made in USA.

[Jerry Kitzhoffer]

Shark Guard on my Unisaw. Works good.

[Russell Hayes]

Shark Guard on my old Grizzly G1023 (clone of Unisaw). I never used a blade guard before I got their ARK package. The main reason I got and use it is to keep my fingers out of the blade. DC is a plus. I use the guard probably 95% of the time. When it won't work on a dado or thin rip I have a hook on the ceiling for the guard, that stretches out the 3" hose and keeps the assembly out of my way. The splitter and guard take less than a minute to set up. Highly recommend.

[Jim Becker]

When you have the option of an actual, real riving knife...that's the choice.

[jay gill]

Thanks everyone, looks like Shark Guard ARK it is.