Derek Cohen
04-23-2023, 1:34 PM
The Veritas Skew Rabbet Plane is one of the most important tools in my workshop. It is used to create fine rebates in drawer bottoms ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DrawerBottomsIntoSlips_html_7fb07a80.jpg
... and planing large rebates for the rear panels in cases ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_34fc2827.jpg
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_4625b5dd.jpg
There has been some discussion about the difficulty in setting up this plane, in particular, positioning the blade and nicker. This is complicated by the skew blade, which is more tricky to sharpen to the ideal profile than a square blade. There is a significant advantage for a skew blade, which makes this worthwhile, this being that the plane will plane cleanly across the grain.
https://i.postimg.cc/nLLb14Cn/1.jpg
You will note that the front knob has been removed on my personal plane. I will explain this shortly, and advise that others do the same.
https://i.postimg.cc/1zYx78qw/2.jpg
Two items here: the first is the sub-fence. This is 240mm x 40mm. It provides greater registration, while the wood offers less resistance. Secondly, the brass knob for the depth stop has been given a slot for a screw driver. This makes it easier to lock down more securely.
I have two fences, a straight one for rebate work, and an angled one for raised panels (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Raisingapanel.html) ...
https://i.postimg.cc/yVn7SdkV/3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
There are two areas which are vulnerable to movement, which will be disastrous: the depth stop, above, and the fence, which is locked down by circular brass rings. It pays to tighten these further. I use a pair of plastic-mouthed vise grips (which will not damage the brass) ...
https://i.postimg.cc/dq9Vm6Sc/15.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Inside the body is a screw ...
https://i.postimg.cc/wqvg5pmD/4.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
This controls the nicker. Loosen the screw and the nicker will slide in-or-out of the body. The nicker is used when planing across the grain. It sits ahead of the blade and creates a path for the blade to prevent tearout. It is not needed when planing with the grain.
It is the harmony of blade and nicker that determines how well the rebate plane with work:
1. The blade must project a smidgeon (technical term for 0.5mm) from the side of the body. This is necessary to cut into the inside corner of the rebate. If it did not, the plane will be forced progressively away from the wall, creating a slope instead of a square face.
2. The nicker needs to be at, or slightly further away from the body than the blade. If the nicker is set too close to the body, it will not pre-cut for the blade, and the result will be tearout along the shoulder of the rebate.
3. The blade projection needs to be set parallel with the sole. If it is canted one way or the other, it will prevent the floor of the rebate being square to the shoulder.
Set the nicker before you set the blade. This is the nicker. It is screwed on at an offset so that it may either project below the sole, or above the sole.
https://i.postimg.cc/NszYpz6S/5.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Remove the screw ...
https://i.postimg.cc/Zm7TbCGH/6.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
... and sharpen the nicker. Just a few rubs on a fine diamond stone will do this. Mine is a 20 year old 1200 grit ...
https://i.postimg.cc/2rvm7TV9/9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Loosen the screw that holds the nicker barrel, and it will come out ...
https://i.postimg.cc/CYRwzwYg/7.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/DrawerBottomsIntoSlips_html_7fb07a80.jpg
... and planing large rebates for the rear panels in cases ...
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_34fc2827.jpg
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/MovingForward_html_4625b5dd.jpg
There has been some discussion about the difficulty in setting up this plane, in particular, positioning the blade and nicker. This is complicated by the skew blade, which is more tricky to sharpen to the ideal profile than a square blade. There is a significant advantage for a skew blade, which makes this worthwhile, this being that the plane will plane cleanly across the grain.
https://i.postimg.cc/nLLb14Cn/1.jpg
You will note that the front knob has been removed on my personal plane. I will explain this shortly, and advise that others do the same.
https://i.postimg.cc/1zYx78qw/2.jpg
Two items here: the first is the sub-fence. This is 240mm x 40mm. It provides greater registration, while the wood offers less resistance. Secondly, the brass knob for the depth stop has been given a slot for a screw driver. This makes it easier to lock down more securely.
I have two fences, a straight one for rebate work, and an angled one for raised panels (http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/Raisingapanel.html) ...
https://i.postimg.cc/yVn7SdkV/3.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
There are two areas which are vulnerable to movement, which will be disastrous: the depth stop, above, and the fence, which is locked down by circular brass rings. It pays to tighten these further. I use a pair of plastic-mouthed vise grips (which will not damage the brass) ...
https://i.postimg.cc/dq9Vm6Sc/15.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Inside the body is a screw ...
https://i.postimg.cc/wqvg5pmD/4.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
This controls the nicker. Loosen the screw and the nicker will slide in-or-out of the body. The nicker is used when planing across the grain. It sits ahead of the blade and creates a path for the blade to prevent tearout. It is not needed when planing with the grain.
It is the harmony of blade and nicker that determines how well the rebate plane with work:
1. The blade must project a smidgeon (technical term for 0.5mm) from the side of the body. This is necessary to cut into the inside corner of the rebate. If it did not, the plane will be forced progressively away from the wall, creating a slope instead of a square face.
2. The nicker needs to be at, or slightly further away from the body than the blade. If the nicker is set too close to the body, it will not pre-cut for the blade, and the result will be tearout along the shoulder of the rebate.
3. The blade projection needs to be set parallel with the sole. If it is canted one way or the other, it will prevent the floor of the rebate being square to the shoulder.
Set the nicker before you set the blade. This is the nicker. It is screwed on at an offset so that it may either project below the sole, or above the sole.
https://i.postimg.cc/NszYpz6S/5.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Remove the screw ...
https://i.postimg.cc/Zm7TbCGH/6.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
... and sharpen the nicker. Just a few rubs on a fine diamond stone will do this. Mine is a 20 year old 1200 grit ...
https://i.postimg.cc/2rvm7TV9/9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)
Loosen the screw that holds the nicker barrel, and it will come out ...
https://i.postimg.cc/CYRwzwYg/7.jpg (https://postimages.org/)