Pocket Hole Poll / Spin off Question?

[richard poitras]

Okay let’s have some fun in the “Pocket Hole Poll” post everyone was asked if they use them.
For those that do what kind/ brand do you have? I know some are hobbyist and some are professional but tell us what you have and like and don’t like about your system and or wish you would have gotten instead.

[Dan Rude]

I have the Kreg 5 and 4, I also picked up the PC auto adjust jig on close out. The PC I have not used yet. For the others I use the K-4 for the HD, and limited use of the Regular jig. Production Pocket Hole, use the K5 with the Micro and regular insert. Like K5 for the handle out front. Most likely will consider one of the power pocket hole jigs in the future.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Kreg - K3, K5 and 310 also called the Mini.
I needed a new driver bit and drill bit & I recalled people saying just get the Mini since it's the same price.

[Richard Coers]

What does "spine off question" mean?

[Kevin Jenness]

I have an old Porter Cable 552 benchtop manual unit, same as the Castle TSM12. With a downcut spiral bit it produces clean pockets even in crossgrain veneered material, the low angle reduces shifting during assembly and the pilot hole runs through with no swarf to bugger up the butt end. Downside: noisy and the hold-down bracket limits stock thickness to about 13/16". I have used a TSM 21 which is at least twice as fast and twice as expensive, and would machine thicker material. The one we had had relied on magnetic proximity sensors for cycling which weakened over time, and adjusting them was a pain. The manual units are fine for a one man shop and far superior to the Kreg system imo.

I also have a Kreg Pocket Rocket for oddball scenarios.

Spinoff?

[Jeff Roltgen]

"Spin off" is what I'm sure the OP meant.

I started with an old Kreg 2 hole blue plastic block manual jig with bronze inserts that came with a modified vice-grip clamp. Still on hand today for the occasional 1 off.

Phase 2: Kreg Journeyman, older style with the metal housing. Works well to this day, though it can be problematic with breaking the tip off the step bit. Works best for hardwood face frames. If I could only have one, this would be it. Best bang for buck in convenience and performance, despite the bit breakage frequency.

Phase 3: Safety Speed bench top. Has 2 separate motors/bits for the trench and pilot and in this way, works more like a Castle pocket hole machine, including the feature that the pilot angle is lower, reducing the side-pull effect of the pocket hole systems in general. Fought with the original hold down clamp plunger, as it has a small, tear-drop shaped rubber foot that is simply unstable. Finally found a commercial grade, non-slip adjustable cabinet foot with a larger diameter that really helps a lot in mitigating the hold down issue. Still, not so good with the hardwoods for face frames. Trenching bit wobbles terribly, even with upgraded foot. Entire motor mount assembly appears over built, yet it shudders and wobbles, even after upgrading to a solid carbide spiral chip breaker bit, which also helped a lot. Makes the cleanest, most professional looking pockets in sheet goods, where there is no struggle like the hardwoods.

While I'd like to settle on one for space savings, all 3 are very nice to have, and since they're paid for, I just keep utilizing whatever one is best for the job at hand.

jeff

[Jared Sankovich]

Another PC 552 owner, but with a couple upgrades. Primarily the addition of a pneumatic clamp and foor pedal control.
499310
https://youtu.be/P9Ba1AMH8hI

[Michael Burnside]

I’m just an avid hobbyist. Started with Kreg and while it was “ok” I was unsatisfied with tear out and shifting even when using clamps, which you should always do. A couple birthdays ago my wife got me the Castle USA 110 pocket router. Wow what a difference.

[John Ziebron]

I started out with the Kreg unit over 15 years ago. Then I upgraded to their newer model with the auto clamp in the rear about 8 years ago. Even though I always clamp the parts when I can, like face frames, I still had issues with uneven surfaces more times than I would like after screwing . The majority of projects I've made has been with red oak and it seemed like the tearout on the entry hole was worse, even with a new or sharpened drill. So a couple of years ago I bought the castle TSM-12 and it was a night and day difference. No tearout and with the steeper angle I no longer had any issues with misalignment. It was more than I wanted to pay for a machine like this but well worth it to eliminate the frustration factor.

[Richard Coers]

My age is catching up with me. I honestly had no idea what that title error was really supposed to be. Sorry

[Michael Burnside]

My age is catching up with me. I honestly had no idea what that title error was really supposed to be. Sorry

No worries. I recently did a review of a Jointer and in the title I used "Planer"....we all make mistakes ;)

[Jim Becker]

I use an older Kreg pocket hole jig...the metal one that preceded the plastic/polymer versions that have been on the market for quite a while now. I have it built into a panel that inserts into the top of my auxiliary bench in the same area that downdraft panels go in as well as a flat surface panel. Having the pocket hole jig in the panel means that the whole work surface is at exactly the level to provide support across long workpieces without using scrap. I can also throw the panel on top of my regular bench and clamp it down for ad-hoc use while still having reasonable support for workpieces. If I were doing this kind of joinery a lot, I'd seriously consider one of the Castile pocket hole machines because of the much lower angle which makes clamping and securing a lot easier.

[Edward Weber]

I have a Kreg K2000, works fine when I use it

[Thomas McCurnin]

Kreg 720 Pro which has pairs of guide bushings and a clamp so it works well to keep everything aligned while I drill and then screw. I also use another clamp as well to hold everything in place. I don't use this much, perhaps once a year, but it works well for what it does, and I like it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I have two of the A-2's. One has been converted to front clamping. Several of the mini's, as they were the same price as a new bit. Couple of the first generation blue plastic models, including the drill block for 1/2" material. Last year, built Woodsmith's version of the Castle machine. Still need to get a 3/8" roughing mill bit for it. Didn't need it, only wanted to build it.

[richard poitras]

499416499414 499415

I have two Kreg jigs one is an original design when they first came out (bought it at one of the wood shows) without any chip removal holes in it when I got it. Then Kreg had the option to send it back to add the chip removal holes (standard now). The other one I have is one that Kreg only made for 1 or 2 years. (Not sure of the model / does anyone know?) The picture is not so good as it was taken hanging on the wall, but the jig is mounted on a board and it has air assist foot pedal to clamp/secure the board (temporarily taped to the wood in blue tape for storage). The drill mounts to the jig but the chuck as you can see holds the drill bit below the unit. It works great for large sheets as you just step on the foot pedal and the clamp is in the back and you just start the drill and push down on the spring assist chuck in front were you stand as you never have to try to put the drill in the hole as its already in the hole, just push down and let it spring up, let up on the pedal slide stock, push down and so on. It also came with the adjustable slide stops as well for production work. I am not sure why they didn't catch on.