A question of teeth

[steven c newman]

While going over a few of my handsaws...trying to get a few sharpened up. Noticed I have a "selection" of points going on...

Have a 5 a 5-1/2 a 6 A few 7ppi s....a few 8s, a 10ppi, and a 11 ppi

These are all full sized Disston saws...There is a Nicholson that I suspect of being from Disston about 1950ish...

Question being....uses for the 7ppi, the 8 ppi, and the 10 and 11ppi saw.....6ppi and under, I will use as Rip...
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11 ppi on a D8..means a LOT of teeth to sharpen(286 of them!)
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Left is a D112, 7ppi, right is a D8, 5-1/2 ppi
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D8, 8 ppi...
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Nicholson USA, 6ppi Rip
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Disston No. 7s full size, 7ppi. Panel saw is a skew back, 10ppi...Not sure IF it is a No. 7...or..a D8..

The 7ppi seems a bit rough for cross cuts....and the 11ppi takes forever to make a cut....
Hmmm...

[steven c newman]

So...IF, for instance...I need to cut a few planks that are too long to fit into my Chevy Equinox LT and still get the trunk to close....Which cross cut saw to use?

The 7ppi one....the 8ppi one...or the 10ppi saw...no way am I using the 11ppi saws...

I have been using the D-112 in the shop..would rather NOT take it along in the car....The D-112 is a 7ppi...

Looking right now at 7 boards @ 1 x 6 x 10' Ash.....just a bit too long...

[Tom M King]

I'd probably use the 10 pt. on those. I use 7 pt. on soft framing lumber, like 2x4's. 8 pt. general purpose, and would probably cut the Ash boards just fine. I use 10 pt. for cutting siding. 11 pt. would be for using hardwood for finish trim. The 10 pt. would be slightly slower cutting the Ash boards than the 8 pt., but I would just like it better.

An 8pt. stays in my truck, but we don't have Ash around here anyway.

[Stew Denton]

Steven,

I use primarily use 3 different PPIs saws, this primarily for carpentry, but also for what little fine woodworking I have time to do.

Tom has more experience than I do, so respect his opinions. My choices are similar, but not exactly the same.

I use a 7 ppi rip for most of my ripping of all types. It would be for finish ripping only if I had a 5 or 5 1/2 point sharpened up and set like I like it for rough ripping, but I don't, so use the 7 point for all my ripping. I have plenty of saws, so just need to take the time to sharpen, and also repoint one if necessary, one of them for rough ripping. That said, repointing one of them will probably be unnecessary because I actually have plenty of saws, and just need to look through the ones I seldome use. Guess I need a round 2-it so I will get one sharpened up.

I use an 8 point for cross cutting carpentry dimension lumber, as did most of the carpenters I knew way back when. That size is also handy to take to the big box stores when I need to cut lumber a bit shorter so as to fit in my vehicle. This is true for both hardwoods and soft woods.

My experience is that if really sharp, the finer ppi saws cut fairly rapidly, and do not slow a person down a lot. That said, I still prefer the larger tooth size when speed and ease of sawing are more important than a fine finish. That is the case for framing and for cutting lumber roughly to size, lumber which is to be trued up later.

Stew