T-Track issues.

[Mark Katz]

Despite decades of woodworking, I've hardly ever used t-track. Recently a I upgraded my miter saw stand (just an old cabinet) by adding fold-down wings. I included a t-track so I could use an adjustable stop block.

The t-track I used is https://taytools.com/products/36-aluminum-t-track-34x38 and the t-bolts are https://taytools.com/products/t-bolts-5-16-18-threads-various-lengths?variant=31923504971863. I used a rectangular piece of poplar for a stop-block, secured with a star-knob.

My issue is that the stop block will not slide smoothly in the t-track. It repeatedly hangs up as I move it and fine adjustments are just about impossible.

I'm wondering if I just chose the wrong t-track. The track specified above has the multi-level inner profile (I don't know what that's actually called) so I'm wondering if I should have used a t-track with a simpler rectangular profile (if that's even available). Or should I try 1/4-20 t-bolts instead of the 5/16-18 ones. Or maybe these tracks and t-bolts are too roughly machined and better ones are available.

Anyone had a better t-track experience?

[Rich Engelhardt]

I've never had issues using 1/4" brass toilet bolts. Maybe you can run to the borg and get a couple of those.

[al ladd]

The key to getting a smooth slide in a t-track is to separate the sliding function from the clamping function. Make your blocks with a projection that is a snug fit into the t-slot, but shallow enough you can clamp behind it with your bolt. T-bolts will work better than hex bolts, but what's most important is to make sure the block slides smoothly in a straight line before you address how you'll clamp it, and then try to get your clamp such that it will entirely disengage when loosened, allowing you to slide your block as if the bolt weren't even there. Another solution is to use smooth weld nuts (sliding nuts) rather than a bolt at all, and then a knob with a male stud. The only drawback there is you need to be somewhat precise about the length of the stud, but that can be solved with counterbores and washers.

[Greg Parrish]

Reviews for their track are mostly positive on Amazon, so I’m assuming the extrusion is consistent and the t-bolts are properly sized.

That said, when I’ve had this issue in the past it was because the bolt had too much flex in the stop. When releasing the tension/clamp and attempting to slide the stop, if the bolt can flex it caused the head of the t-bolt to rotate in the track and bind. By remaking my block with a tighter fitting hole for the t-bolt, it improved sliding. May be worth checking to see if this is what’s happening.

The other easy test would be trying a different batch or brand of t-bolts to see if it makes a difference.

Good luck.

[Keith Outten]

I have on occasion waxed T-Track with Johnson's paste wax to make the sliding function smoother and avoid the catches that are aggravating. In my shop if it has a sliding function it gets covered with Johnson's paste wax frequently.

[glenn bradley]

If things are snagging and the track is new I would look at the bolt head. A little attention with some sandpaper or a file would remove any sharp areas. If the track is older the interior surfaces can become damaged due to over tightening but that takes quite an effort. I have t-slots cut into MDF that have been in use for nearly 20 years and are just starting to get rough. Another thought is does your block have a key?

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This prevents twist and can help the block slide more smoothly.

[Michael Burnside]

It should slide smoothly. I'd file the foot of the t-bolt and give it a rounded shoulder first, before trying a different size bolt. I never have to wax any of my tracks or bolts but I have had to file/de-burr a t-bolt once in a while.

[Patrick Varley]

I've had issues when the hole in the block is not snug on the bolt. If it's not, then the bolt can tilt as you move the block which causes the foot to bind in the slot. Ideally the bolt should stay perpendicular to the track as it moves (in my experience).

However this is why I switched to the metric track where you can get sliders to use with 6/8mm studs. Only issue there is they aren't necessarily as readily/quickly available in the US.

[Lee Schierer]

If the T-track has screws down through the bottom, make sure the countersunk heads are flush with the inside surface of the track. I also use the brass toilet bolts.