Best Straight Edge Quality and Price to buy?

[richard poitras]

I have been wanting a good straight edge for some time now as I have always just used my 48’’ level for setting up tools. So, what are the forums recommendations for quality and pricing that would be recommended. I know there is not a lot to them, but tolerances are important to me along with a good value.

Thanks Richard

[Dave Zellers]

I bought a 36" steel straight bar from Lee Valley. I'm very happy with it. Mostly because I used it to discover that all of my levels, 24" up to 78" are as straight as it is. My first 78" door jamb level, a Sears Craftsman aluminum level bought in the mid 1970's no longer works as a level, the bubbles are bad, but it is dead on flat and straight. I will never let it go.

I wouldn't dismiss your levels too quickly.

[Mel Fulks]

I like the 4 foot aluminum rulers , the wide ones , about 1 and 3/4 inches wide and 1/8th thick. Pick two of them and test them side
by side. I also have an 8 foot straight edge that I made by using 1/4 inch tempered Masonite faced on both sides with laminate glued
on with plastic resin glue. Then ripped , beveled , filed . Tested by by drawing a line , then turning it around to see if it matched. It’s
about 4 and 1/2 inches wide. Look up cost of an 8 foot straight edge !

[Dave Zellers]

I also have an 8 foot straight edge that I made by using 1/4 inch tempered Masonite faced on both sides with laminate glued
on with plastic resin glue. Then ripped , beveled , filed . Tested by drawing a line , then turning it around to see if it matched.

Ooh! I like that. Now I have to have one. :D

[Bill Dufour]

What accuracy do you need? Does it need to be traceable?
Starrett or Mitutoyo is probably the best quality and highest prices. For wood working used is probably plenty good enough.
I doubt you want a camelback or accurate right angles.
Normal rules of handle with gloves, kept it out of sunlight, etc. Most reliable storage is hanging free from a nail on the wall. A drawer full of stuff is probably the worst for nicks and stress
Bill D

This Starrett at Amazon is under $10 an inch.
https://www.amazon.com/Starrett-386-48-Draftsmens-Straight-Thickness/dp/B000VDRUVS/ref=sr_1_3?c=ts&keywords=Straight+Edges&qid=1680053884&refinements=p_89%3AStarrett&s=industrial&sr=1-3&ts_id=401600011&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.c3015c4a-46bb-44b9-81a4-dc28e6d374b3

[Mel Fulks]

Well, Thank you, Dave ! The reason I made it was to lay out a sundial for 37 and 1/2 latitude. Not much demand for sundials , until
people find out the real ones work. I demonstrated dials to a couple of well educated people who said , “I had no idea those things
worked !” There are at least two good books on making sundials. And they are ALL bigger than the biggest Rolex !

[Patrick Varley]

I've made my own 4 foot ones out of quartersawn oak and they work well. Accuracy all in how much time you put in to setting them up.

https://cdn.woodsmith.com/files/issues/183/creating-a-straightedge.pdf

You can use Mel's method to make the stock and it's even cheaper (and more stable).

[Cameron Wood]

I have both 18" and 38" versions of this:

https://www.amazon.com/Yellowhammer-Anodized-Aluminum-reference-contoured/dp/B08VX3C3HZ/ref=sr_1_1?crid=1NKZYQJB1DLLV&keywords=Yellowhammer+38+inch+Anodized+Aluminum+St raight+Edge+%7C+Straight+to+Within+.002+Over+Full+ 38%22+Length+machined+Flat+and+Smooth+Reference+Ed ge%2C+Contoured+Cross+Section+for+Easy+gripping+an d+Hanging+Hole&qid=1680056561&sprefix=yellowhammer+38+inch+anodized+aluminum+str aight+edge+straight+to+within+.002+over+full+38+le ngth+machined+flat+and+smooth+reference+edge%2C+co ntoured+cross+section+for+easy+gripping+and+hangin g+hole+%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-1


Pretty good combination of accuracy, price, & utility. Maybe not machinist tolerances, but fine for setting jointer tables, etc..
It's eye opening, when you see that your levels, rulers, even granite plates are not all that straight or flat.

[Aaron Inami]

Good steel straight edges are preferred for precision type setups (such as saw blade toe-out and jointer table setup - basically anything that requires dial indicators for setup). The Stabila and Johnson levels are good as well, but may not be as easy to use in some situations because of how thick/wide/bulky the level is (like 1.25" or 1.5" thick). I don't think you need a steel straight edge for anything over 39". A super long level/edge is generally used for stuff like mounting/aligning a long outfeed table. I don't think this kind of setup needs the ultra-precision of a steel straight edge.

I think the Kinex straight edges are better than the Starret because they are thicker. You are looking at 10-12mm for a 29"+ straight edge (that's 3/8 to 1/2" thick!!). The Starret are less then 1/4" thick (1/8" for the shorter straight edges). The Veritas are cheaper, but still only 1/4" for short ones and 3/8" for 36" long.


https://taytools.com/products/kinex-din-874-0-straight-edges?variant=31370908827735

(https://taytools.com/products/kinex-din-874-0-straight-edges?variant=31370908827735)
https://taytools.com/products/kinex-din-874-1-straight-edges-inox?variant=31371046748247

The spring steel is good for keeping shape over temperature range, but less resistant to corrosion compared to the stainless steel model.

[Bruce Page]

Lee Valley makes a good one. I have their 38".

[Wes Grass]

Not remotely useful for any sort of layout work, but I have a 'stick' with notches bandsawed in the ends, bent to tension a length of safety wire. You can't get much straighter than that.

[Mel Fulks]

Back when Michael Angelo was working with marble to make statues, he avoided straight lines . So he got by without a lot of expensive straight-edges.

[Cary Falk]

I think these are pretty reasonable.
https://www.ptreeusa.com/layout_straight_edge.htm

[Frederick Skelly]

Lee Valley makes a good one. I have their 38".

+1. Very happy with mine.

[glenn bradley]

Lee Valley 12” and 36” steel have met my needs for almost 20 years.

[Greg Parrish]

I think these are pretty reasonable.
https://www.ptreeusa.com/layout_straight_edge.htm

that’s what I have. The 50” version. It’s .003 accurate overall and .001 per foot accuracy according to Fulton. For table saw, jointer, etc leveling it works great. It also confirms my 48” empire level, which claims identical accuracy, is flat and accurate.

I think these are great value without stepping up to a much pricier starrett machinist steel straight edge.

[Kevin Jenness]

"Best" depends on what you are trying to do. I have a 24" steel straightedge from Lee Valley that I feel is a good value for general shop work. Its advertised tolerance is .0015". At 1/4" thick it easily stands on edge without tipping.

I also have a 72" Starret that has been calibrated to <.001". I rely on it for tasks like setting up a longbed jointer. Extruded aluminum levels may well be straight enough for the task, but it's hard to tell without a known reference to start with. Short straightedges can be used to align long tables but you run into problems when the tables themselves aren't perfectly flat.

One way to have a long accurate inexpensive straightedge is to make one of sheetstock or stable wood on a good sliding tablesaw.

[Bob Falk]

+1 on the Lee Valley....it was about $100, but helped me get my jointer beds set flat.....

[Ole Anderson]

I have a six foot aluminum level with milled edges which seems dead on, but I don't have a standard to compare it to. At work (civil engineering) we used to have stainless steel trimming/drafting straight edges with a ground edge. https://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com/alvin-1109-stainless-steel-cutting-straightedges?VariantInventoryID=15578&feed=Froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4-hBhCtARIsAC9gR3a0u4oCHj69D4owzvrbgP2Mu7XXdgUCmlWV2 nuMLRS_ST8LsGtAXswaAg_tEALw_wcB

[Andrew Hughes]

I also have the Lee Valley steel and aluminum straight edges. For a more precision straight edge I have one from Suburban tools. Its kept it in the tube hanging from the end.

[David M Peters]

+1 to the aluminum straight edges from Peach Tree, I have both models.

[Derek Cohen]

Not remotely useful for any sort of layout work, but I have a 'stick' with notches bandsawed in the ends, bent to tension a length of safety wire. You can't get much straighter than that.

Clever!

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Robert Hayward]

Check out the straight edges (https://www.tools4flooring.com/tools-and-equipment/measuring-layout-tools/straight-edges.html) made for flooring installers. Tough and made to handle field conditions. I have a 4' Crain hanging on a nail on the wall I bought years ago to set up a jointer. Have found many uses for it since other than checking table alignment. I also have a 6'8" MD door jamb level that is an excellent straight edge. The 4' aluminum rulers from the box stores are also used for straight edges in my shop.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I bought an I-gaging one at Grizzly years ago. When it arrived, it didn't meet the manufacturer's own specs. I called Grizzly, they shipped a replacement telling me to keep the original one too. I found that the error was just in the last 3 inches at one end. I took a punch and marked that end. I use the new one but do on occasion use the defective one.

[Warren Lake]

what Kevin said and id want two lengths. Have a 72" friend bought from a tool and die maker. Perfect for doing the small jointers.

He had a shorter one and would have asked for that one as well. This is a bit large and heavy for some smaller stuff.

[John Pendery]

I like the stewmac straight edges. One edge is beveled making it much easier to see daylight or use feeler gauges. I don’t build guitars or dial in fretboards, but I still like their straightedges better than others I own. Downside is they don’t come in long lengths so may not work depending on application

[Larry Frank]

I have the Veritas 38" aluminum straight edge. Flat to 0.003" over the length. It is good enough for my shop uses.

[Michael Drew]

I recently bought two. A 39" steel and a 50" aluminum. The steel is great for precision work, like setting up machines where the extra mass and weight come in handy. https://www.amazon.com/Kinex-1039-12-100-Precision-Machinist-Straight/dp/B00LHX5XLA/ref=dp_prsubs_3?pd_rd_w=sljqM&content-id=amzn1.sym.db26482d-f2e6-4f69-a20a-6ff6cd9fa602&pf_rd_p=db26482d-f2e6-4f69-a20a-6ff6cd9fa602&pf_rd_r=TDA3FKZT7WZRC9A5RDP4&pd_rd_wg=iJdpF&pd_rd_r=1347ba26-1c0a-418e-b5f4-a9f5fa9901e3&pd_rd_i=B00LHX5XLA&psc=1

The aluminum one is more for every day use. I can hang it on a wall, grab it quickly, hang it back up. It's a Yellowhammer brand, but I think it's probably the same thing Peachtree sells.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084C55DY2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s02?ie=UTF8&th=1


https://www.amazon.com/Anodized-Aluminum-Straight-Straightness-Machinery/dp/B07H4235V3/ref=d_pd_di_sccai_cn_sccl_3_3/142-9476483-9607160?pd_rd_w=SWvkm&content-id=amzn1.sym.e13de93e-5518-4644-8e6b-4ee5f2e0b062&pf_rd_p=e13de93e-5518-4644-8e6b-4ee5f2e0b062&pf_rd_r=Q2H723E41QS8E67JP23W&pd_rd_wg=Hsvt6&pd_rd_r=8bd71949-1ce1-4518-9b52-de8dda1207cd&pd_rd_i=B07H4235V3&psc=1

[Bill Dufour]

I have a six foot aluminum level with milled edges which seems dead on, but I don't have a standard to compare it to. At work (civil engineering) we used to have stainless steel trimming/drafting straight edges with a ground edge. https://www.draftingsuppliesdew.com/alvin-1109-stainless-steel-cutting-straightedges?VariantInventoryID=15578&feed=Froogle&gclid=Cj0KCQjww4-hBhCtARIsAC9gR3a0u4oCHj69D4owzvrbgP2Mu7XXdgUCmlWV2 nuMLRS_ST8LsGtAXswaAg_tEALw_wcB
You need three to compare to each other to end up with one(actually three) that is verified accurate. No need to buy anything to compare it to.
Bill D

[Mel Fulks]

I had forgotten that ‘three way’ test . Made sense when I read about it , but it’s gone now. But ,as I reported earlier, when I struck a
line then turned the straight edge around to to align with…line I had made ACCURACY.

[Bruce Page]

I have the Veritas 38" aluminum straight edge. Flat to 0.093" over the length. It is good enough for my shop uses.

Um..typo? My Veritas 38" has a claimed flatness of .003. I checked it against my 48" milling machine table and could not get a .002 feeler gauge under it anywhere along its length.

[Warren Lake]

I hang mine as well, is that the best way to store them? It was past life a shear blade so has mounting holes in it already. I keep in in the office as least humidity in there.

[Aaron Inami]

Below I have pictured:

Kinex 874/0 spring steel 750mm straight edge (29") - tolerance of .00037" over entire length

Kinex 875/0 precision flat square 500mm x 330mm (19-3/4" x 13")

Stabila 32" Model 196-2 level

498648

The higher thickness of the Kinex straight edges helps make sure the straight edge is sitting perfectly vertical when laying it on the "edge". This means you can do things like this (to align toe-out of sliding table saw):
498649

Also, the steel composition is required when using a magnet mount dial indicator. I have never used the really thin 1/8" or 1/4" Starret/Veritas, but I imagine the thicker material on the Kinex helps reduce flex for doing stuff like this (can be used to align jointer tables):
498650

If you are just checking flatness of tables, then those $89 set of aluminum straight edges from Amazon would likely work very well. The higher end Stabila levels are more expensive, but I think they are inherently more useful as a tool. They are made from solid aluminum and the edge surface is machined flat (you can tell by the swirl marks from the milling cutters):

https://www.amazon.com/Stabila-37448-builders-Certified-Professional/dp/B00009OLI2/

Anything requiring the precision of dial indicators really needs a good steel straight edge (in my opinion).

[Bill Dufour]

I had forgotten that ‘three way’ test . Made sense when I read about it , but it’s gone now. But ,as I reported earlier, when I struck a
line then turned the straight edge around to to align with…line I had made ACCURACY.
All that test proves is the straight edge is straight or it is symmetrically curved over it's length. That is why you need to compare it with two other ones. A single pair can be curved in opposite directions and mate perfectly. A third example can not mate with both if the are curved to mate.
A nut and screw gauge mate perfectly but the bolt is not a straight edge.
Bill D

[Kevin Jenness]

All that test proves is the straight edge is straight or it is symmetrically curved over it's length. That is why you need to compare it with two other ones. A single pair can be curved in opposite directions and mate perfectly. A third example can not mate with both if the are curved to mate.
A nut and screw gauge mate perfectly but the bolt is not a straight edge.
Bill D

I believe Mel's test does prove straightness as it is testing the straightedge against itself rather than a complementarily curved one. It would be easy enough to see a few thou deviation from straight with a clearly knifed line as it would be doubled when the straightedge is flipped over and offered up to the line. For really precise testing you want a qualified service like this one http://www.petsch.digitalspacemail8.net/web/StraightEdge/StEdg-ReCalibration.htm

[richard poitras]

Thanks for all the info and thoughts, by the looks of it I think a lot of the aluminum edges may come from the same manufacturer? I was using a 4 ft level but have never checked it for being that straight. So, I think I may look into that before getting a designated straight edge, as mine is a Stabila with the milled face.