Best way to glue and transport a long lock miter

[Dennis Jarchow]

I have to glue a long lock miter on an 84" cherry pantry cabinet finished end panel and the face frame before I send them to the finisher. It isn't ideal but the face frame and end panel will not be attached to the carcass until after finishing.

So, I have two questions. Any suggestions on the glue up. I have never glued a lock miter this long before.

Second, I will want to support the face frame/end panel joint during transport since it won't be attached to the carcass. I was thinking of attaching some lathe at a 45 to the top and bottom of the FF and end panel to support the lock miter joint better during transport. Any better ideas? Thanks!

Sorry posted this to the wrong forum. Should have been the general forum

[Kevin Jenness]

Nothing special about gluing up a long lock miter as opposed to a short one, just be organized. If you have a solid panel it's simple, if frame and panel machine the joint so the clamping direction is parallel to the face frame, otherwise you will be trying to clamp across the panel openings. If you don't want to machine the lock miters on the assembled frames, run and assemble the corner stiles and then add other rails, stiles and panels I use pocket-screwed plywood gussets inside the corner to stabilize the assembly.

I usually do a miterfold in this situation to save setup time, in which case the face frame and side panel can each be assembled and sanded before joining the corner.

[Dennis Jarchow]

Kevin, thanks for the reply. I appreciate it.

[Kevin Jenness]

I would just add the obvious, machining a long piece on edge with the typical lock miter tooling can be problematic, especially if it has any weight to it - another reason to do a miterfold. I have a Freeborn lock miter set with which all the machining is done on the flat, much easier imo.

[John Erickson]

Take a piece of frame stock 84" and rip 2 pieces at 45* so you have 2 triangle strips. Glue the widest portion of the triangle along the length on each side of the miter with a piece of news print paper sandwiched between the strip and your frame (glue both sides of the paper). Place the strips back from the lock miter enough so when you clamp it together with spring clamps you're pulling together at the middle of the miter. Once the glue has dried remove the strips and scrape the glue and paper off down to the bare wood. The strips are easily removed but make sure you have enough clamps ( space 3-4" apart ).

[Dennis Jarchow]

Kevin, thanks. I had a guy I know with a commercial shop machine the lock miter for me using a couple shapers with power feeders. he keeps them dedicated to just lock miters.