Derek Cohen
03-25-2023, 11:30 AM
For those here using traditional table saws.
Generally, one thinks of a rip fence for ripping ...
https://i.postimg.cc/tqQYMwx6/1.jpg
I am in the process of building a pair of nightstands. These feature waterfall sides, which requires that the panels be sawn sequentially.
On a standard table saw this would involve running the panel against the rip fence, which is fine for wider panels ... but what happens when these get really narrow, such as 10mm wide? That's getting tricky, yes?
On the slider, the rip fence gets used as a depth stop. Firstly, here is the panel to be sawn up ...
https://i.postimg.cc/PfdNtDKr/2.jpg
The first section to cut off is 140mm wide. This will form one side.
Step 1 - set the rip fence at 140mm and run the panel against the fence ...
https://i.postimg.cc/qkCNQ4z0/3.jpg
Step 2 - Clamp the panel down and move the fence away (to remove the danger of binding and kickback). Note that this sets the panel to be sawn on the rip fence side of the blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/X4HXbp54/4.jpg
That is too easy.
https://i.postimg.cc/byR8zBs4/10.jpg
Let's do something tricky ... saw a 10mm section. One side on each of the nightstands will have a tiny drawer (in addition to the single drawer facing towards the front). This 10mm section will form one side of the drawer opening.
We set the rip fence 10mm away from the blade. It is so close now that the blade guard needs to be removed ..
https://i.postimg.cc/Q8QHGmQy/5.jpg
The slider rip fence has a micro adjust and a Wixey DRO for dialling in the dimension exactly. (You may be able to read the DRO).
https://i.postimg.cc/hgnXbFgW/6.jpg
The panel is locked down, the fence moved back, and the blade guard replaced on the blade. The slider wagon is run past the blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/rFKVmN4c/7.jpg
How easy is this to do this on a table saw without removing your fingers!
Here is one of the two panels ready for dovetailing ...
https://i.postimg.cc/xnTqhKc6/8.jpg
A close up of the inset drawer ...
https://i.postimg.cc/R0z4grDV/9.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek
Generally, one thinks of a rip fence for ripping ...
https://i.postimg.cc/tqQYMwx6/1.jpg
I am in the process of building a pair of nightstands. These feature waterfall sides, which requires that the panels be sawn sequentially.
On a standard table saw this would involve running the panel against the rip fence, which is fine for wider panels ... but what happens when these get really narrow, such as 10mm wide? That's getting tricky, yes?
On the slider, the rip fence gets used as a depth stop. Firstly, here is the panel to be sawn up ...
https://i.postimg.cc/PfdNtDKr/2.jpg
The first section to cut off is 140mm wide. This will form one side.
Step 1 - set the rip fence at 140mm and run the panel against the fence ...
https://i.postimg.cc/qkCNQ4z0/3.jpg
Step 2 - Clamp the panel down and move the fence away (to remove the danger of binding and kickback). Note that this sets the panel to be sawn on the rip fence side of the blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/X4HXbp54/4.jpg
That is too easy.
https://i.postimg.cc/byR8zBs4/10.jpg
Let's do something tricky ... saw a 10mm section. One side on each of the nightstands will have a tiny drawer (in addition to the single drawer facing towards the front). This 10mm section will form one side of the drawer opening.
We set the rip fence 10mm away from the blade. It is so close now that the blade guard needs to be removed ..
https://i.postimg.cc/Q8QHGmQy/5.jpg
The slider rip fence has a micro adjust and a Wixey DRO for dialling in the dimension exactly. (You may be able to read the DRO).
https://i.postimg.cc/hgnXbFgW/6.jpg
The panel is locked down, the fence moved back, and the blade guard replaced on the blade. The slider wagon is run past the blade ...
https://i.postimg.cc/rFKVmN4c/7.jpg
How easy is this to do this on a table saw without removing your fingers!
Here is one of the two panels ready for dovetailing ...
https://i.postimg.cc/xnTqhKc6/8.jpg
A close up of the inset drawer ...
https://i.postimg.cc/R0z4grDV/9.jpg
Regards from Perth
Derek