Bore into end grain

[Bob Jones 5443]

Here’s one that probably makes the rounds here from time to time.

To make a second guitar stand, I need to bore two 1/4” holes, only about 3/4” deep or so, into the end grain of a (42” long) 5/4 bubinga board — the vertical arm of the base. Into these will go threaded inserts for attaching the stand’s base to its vertical arm from below.

The last time I used mahogany and it was a struggle. I’d like to use the drill press if possible. The drill press table rotates, but it doesn’t swing out of the way of the quill and bit. The head does not swivel. And even with a full-height floor mounted drill press, the table won’t go down far enough to mount the arm vertically. So, I could not figure out how to use a sturdy drill press setup.

I wound up using a Forstner bit in a corded hand drill, with the board propped up and clamped down on the bench and the drill supported to come horizontally into the board. I didn’t like the imprecision of this setup. The end grain still gave me more resistance than I’d like, and I was barely able to push the drill in a straight line. I hesitate to return to that setup with bubinga, which I think is a harder species.

I’m now wishing I could use my plunge router and my mortise jig (Young Je, YouTube — you know the one?). I suspect this would make the holes easy to bore. But my bench (and its vise) isn’t 42” off the floor.

But am I missing some drill press wisdom? Is there a way to clamp a 7/8”x5”x42” board endwise onto a drill press?

Or something else I haven’t considered?

[John Lanciani]

A dowel jig with a sharp brad point bit would be easy and accurate.

[Rob Luter]

Bore a 1/4" hole through a block about 2" thick on your drill press. clamp this on the end of your bubinga board and use it with a hand drill like a big doweling jig. The pilot hole keeps things square:

https://paulsellers.com/2022/06/making-a-drill-bit-guide/

Or buy a commercial drill guide block:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nJJ4k6PIeR0&ab_channel=KregTool

[Ronald Blue]

Same basic idea as has already been suggested. I have a dowel jig similar to the one linked. Mine doesn't have inserts as I recall but handles large(thick) stock. As was said with a sharp brad point drill bit it should be a breeze.

https://www.amazon.com/Eagle-America-445-7600-Professional-Self-Centering/dp/B009K0GD1Q/ref=sr_1_18?keywords=self+centering+dowel+jig&qid=1678794343&sr=8-18

[Rich Engelhardt]

I'd probably use my Drill Guide (https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1318-DrillMate-Drill-Guide/dp/B014A1Z92I/ref=asc_df_B014A1Z92I/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309807921328&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=14364686703828865057&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9015381&hvtargid=pla-437180793075&th=1)for this type of thing.
Lay it flat so it can be drill horizontally and clamp enough wood on both sides of the board so you have a good flat surface wide enough to support the guide.

You could always get all sorts of crazy and use the Woodpecker's version (https://www.amazon.com/Woodpeckers-Drill-Portable-Versatile-System/dp/B09LRKKFC9).

[Bob Jones 5443]

Thanks, folks. You’ve given my creativity a nudge.

I like the idea of the Kreg drill guide, but I wonder how it will seat on a 0.835” thick board. I think I’ll merge that concept with Rob’s first suggestion and make a block of my own with a generous 0.85” dado on the bottom. I have a block of maple or ash around here somewhere…

Love the Creek. I’ve been away for some time as my hobby time has turned to guitar, and the arrival of grandchildren has slowly taken over my garage shop space!

Wish me luck with clearing things out and building the stand!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Use two pieces of plywood, fastened at right angles to each other. On one, bore a hole for router bushing, and use other leg to clamp jig to board. Use plunge router with up cut spiral bit and bore holes.

[Aaron Liebling]

Just clamp boards on either side to give you the width you need for a solid base

[Floyd Mah]

Okay, here's another suggestion. I recently extended a walking stick by six inches. I needed to fashion a round piece of wood with a bore for a 1/4" threaded rod. I knew that I couldn't drill a 6" hole that would stay centered in the wood. Instead, I took the wood for the extention, split it in half and made two 1/8" x 6" dados in it and glued it together. I installed the extension and then shaped it to match the rest of the stick. Anyway, it's a way for you to create a custom drilling guide.

[Bob Jones 5443]

The Maker spirit is alive and well in this thread.

[Bert McMahan]

You don't have to make a dado- just cut an inch or so off the board (assuming it's long enough), then drill guide holes in that on your drill press. Set it back on your "actual use" piece, then clamp it in place with a couple pieces around the wide sides of the board. By using the actual board as your guide piece, you know it's exactly the same thickness so you don't have to worry about getting the dado perfectly centered in another piece of stock.

[Clint Baxter]

I'd use on of the Big Gator drill guides,https://www.amazon.com/Big-Gator-Tools-STD1000DGNP-V-Drill/dp/B0061FY004/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.eba7bd4e-dedb-4570-b09b-0e101a3c98a8%3Aamzn1.sym.eba7bd4e-dedb-4570-b09b-0e101a3c98a8&crid=2NMYSHQFXI2A7&cv_ct_cx=big+gator+drill+guide&keywords=big+gator+drill+guide&pd_rd_i=B0061FY004&pd_rd_r=04c0274d-934e-4fc2-9d5c-7ba4e5fdad45&pd_rd_w=5wdiZ&pd_rd_wg=NvMtL&pf_rd_p=eba7bd4e-dedb-4570-b09b-0e101a3c98a8&pf_rd_r=BN9XDKJA2MPSWGE934W2&qid=1678906503&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=gator+guid%2Caps%2C140&sr=1-1-492482ea-2ad3-4cfe-9d1a-0efc7c5c9374-spons&psc=1&smid=A23M3P8BKKV3LL&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyUkREU0pZQUUxREI5J mVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTgwODcxMVZNUEVaSllLNVNPSiZlbmN yeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODk2MTEzMkc2MDlQVVBES1M2OCZ3aWRnZ XROYW1lPXNwX3NlYXJjaF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2t SZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
Just shim it level and, as advised earlier, use a sharp brad point bit.

[Kent A Bathurst]

Bore a 1/4" hole through a block about 2" thick on your drill press

HAH! Dead on target

I have 4 blocks about 6" long and 1-1/2" or 2" square. Used for other tasks as main purpose. BUT - each of them has several holes drilled through, with diameter scribbled beside them.

I have a Nova Voyager drill press, and there is nothing it cannot do. But, sometimes the target is too unwieldy, sometimes the operator is too doggone lazy to leave the bench, sometimes its only one or two holes in a non-critical application. The blocks get used often.

[Bob Jones 5443]

You don't have to make a dado- just cut an inch or so off the board (assuming it's long enough), then drill guide holes in that on your drill press. Set it back on your "actual use" piece, then clamp it in place with a couple pieces around the wide sides of the board. By using the actual board as your guide piece, you know it's exactly the same thickness so you don't have to worry about getting the dado perfectly centered in another piece of stock.

I’ve been coming around to that, as it would ensure no face-to-face misalignment. I’ve also considering screwing guide block to the two outside boards to also eliminate side-to-side movement while I drill. I think that’s what I’ll settle on.

Using a drilling guide (DIY or bought) means I can’t use a Forstner bit (shaft is narrower than cutting head), but my brad points are pretty sharp. Worst case, I buy a new bit for the end grain. With this method I’ll get a preview of how the bit does in the same end grain before I go into the work piece.

To get the shank holes on the guide, I’ll hold the part in a Jorgensen hand screw and lock the hand screw down to the table.

Thanks, everyone!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Using a drilling guide (DIY or bought) means I can’t use a Forstner bitNot true!
Using a Milescraft Drill Mate as I mentioned & linked to above (or the crazy expensive Woodpecker's) will allow you to use one.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Not true!
Using a Milescraft Drill Mate as I mentioned & linked to above (or the crazy expensive Woodpecker's) will allow you to use one.

Yes, but I’d prefer to just use a guide block and a drill. I don’t really want a drill press alternative in the shop. I don’t often need precision boring into pieces that don’t fit on the drill press.

Plus, no offense to the Woodpecker fans, but I’ve never felt the urge to pay their prices — although their tools are visually appealing and probably work quite well. Kind of a Bridge City Syndrome.

[Bert McMahan]

I’ve been coming around to that, as it would ensure no face-to-face misalignment. I’ve also considering screwing guide block to the two outside boards to also eliminate side-to-side movement while I drill. I think that’s what I’ll settle on.

Using a drilling guide (DIY or bought) means I can’t use a Forstner bit (shaft is narrower than cutting head), but my brad points are pretty sharp. Worst case, I buy a new bit for the end grain. With this method I’ll get a preview of how the bit does in the same end grain before I go into the work piece.

To get the shank holes on the guide, I’ll hold the part in a Jorgensen hand screw and lock the hand screw down to the table.

Thanks, everyone!

If you're dead set on a forstner bit, drill your guide hole to the shank of the forstner bit. Cut out a recess at the "output" side of the drill guide with a bandsaw or something. Thread the forstner through the guide, then clamp it to the drill. Last, push the guide block up against your workpiece. The forstner will be trapped between the guide and the workpiece and will be guided by the block the same way.

[Bruce Wrenn]

If you're dead set on a forstner bit, drill your guide hole to the shank of the forstner bit. Cut out a recess at the "output" side of the drill guide with a bandsaw or something. Thread the forstner through the guide, then clamp it to the drill. Last, push the guide block up against your workpiece. The forstner will be trapped between the guide and the workpiece and will be guided by the block the same way.Plunge router, guide bushing with up cut spiral bit, easy peazy!

[Warren Lake]

Kent answered your question. If you are worried about your brad point learn how to sharpen them. We were taught to make brad points out of regular twist drills and they cut excellent but a bit of skill as you are making a bit instead of sharpening an already made bit. If you have lots to drill then do Kents set up and put hardened drill bushings in.

[Floyd Mah]

Forstner bits are basically very short (1/2" or so) bits and can be used to make holes with a gentle curve if you put radial pressure on the bit as you drill. For this application, it's probably fine, but for a deeper hole, I would prefer a bit with a longer dimension to aid in keeping the hole straight.

[Bob Jones 5443]

Epilogue. After several trials and errors with various drill bits, I ended up using a plunge router. The task was to bore 3/8” holes 5/8” deep into end grain in a 7/8” thick bubinga board. The work piece is 42” long, so it even stuck way up out of the shoulder vise. A little too high for stability.

I used the Young Je mortise jig I’d made a few years ago, tightly clamped to the board, which was held fast vertically in my Moxon vise — just a few inches above the vise. The routing was trivially simple (zip zip with a 3/8” all-carbide up-cut bit), but devising the setup was a head-scratcher.

By the way, the Rockler threaded inserts were not up to the job. They buckled like a tin can in the test parts. I went with stainless inserts from McMaster Carr. The spec says to use a 3/8” bore, but the inserts weren’t going to chew into even that. Bubinga is hard! So once I had clean 3/8” bores, I Skill-drilled the holes out with a 27/64” Brad point bit, and even then I needed to take my time tapping the inserts in — backing out and in until reaching the depth.

Sincere thanks to all for your good old fashioned SMC ideas and advice! I can always count on this community to come through. I more or less ended up using Bruce Wrenn’s plan, but your suggestions carried me along through the iterations leading up to the eventual operation.