Marquetry questions

[Adam Augustine]

I have a few questions and look forward to hearing everyones input. Thanks in advance.


How do you cut your marquetry? Are you using a knife, or a scroll saw, or a combination of both?
Do you have any expereience with the new concepts marquetry saw? Does it perform well? Is it worth the money?
Have you tried to fill the saw kerf with wood filler? If so what kind did you use, water or oil base? Name brands would be appreciated. I was thinking about using a slightly thicker saw blade and filling with colored wood filler. For things like eye veins and ect, instead of trying to cut supper thin lines.
What kind of sand do you use for shading?

[Richard Coers]

NEVER use filler on marquetry. You are painting in wood, filler ruins the look. If you cut with a scroll saw, you tip the table at an angle so you are setting a tapered edge piece into a hole. You get a line to line cut. I'm about to do marquetry with a laser. On it you offset the cut by the width of the laser beam, so again no gaps. From what I read, no one complains about the Knew Concepts saw.

[Mike Henderson]

I use a scroll saw to cut marquetry. I just went and looked at the Knew Concepts marquetry saw - wow, expensive. You can purchase a 26" RBI Hawk scroll saw brand new for $1,650.

Scroll saws are one of those tools that people seem to purchase with high hopes of doing some scroll work, and then it just sits. Eventually, they put it up for sale at an attractive price. Keep your eyes out for used scroll saws in the length you want.

There are two ways to cut marquetry. If you use the straight up sawing technique, and use a UF glue, the glue will fill the kerf and will outline the piece. The other technique is the slant sawing technique but you usually have to have thicker veneer to make that work properly.

I have some examples of marquetry using the straight up sawing technique on my website. Here's one example. In the center is the brand of a friend's ranch - bar, open A, seven
497501

For sand shading, any clean, fine grain sand will work. I think I bought some sand at a handicraft store (Michael's - but they may only be local here).

Mike

[richard poitras]

The New Concepts Saw is the same cutting concept as a Chevalet. In fact they copied it on how it cuts, but in a updated way as the Chevalet was made back in the 1800's or so. There is a few places you can buy a Chevalet but they cost a lot as well, But you can make them also. When I made mine, I had about $300.00 into it and they work great . If you are not familiar with Chevalet check out The American School of French Marquetry. In fact Patrick Edwards who runs the school helped with the development of the New Concepts Saw just before the owner of NC died.

I would also check out the Paul Schürch videos as they will teach you everything you need to know if you are going to use a scroll saw and not use the double bevel method. As I took Patrick’s classes and Paul’s classes and everything Paul teaches is on his video set.
Also one of Patrick's student's started a school in Canada you should check out as well.

https://americanschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/WPASFM/

https://schurchwoodwork.com/all-products/2-videos-2-booklets-for-download-decorative-veneering-marquetry/

https://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/acquiringachevalet.html

https://thecanadianschooloffrenchmarquetry.com/page13.html

Richard

[Adam Augustine]

Rich,
Thanks for weighing in. I have studied the methods of Silas Kopf and Paul Schurch. There are things I like and dislike about both. I like to cutout the packets as Paul suggest. I just feel that I hjave to place the pieces with equal distacne around them and hope that the moisture from the glue expands them to a tight fit. Thoughts.

[Christopher Charles]

I’ll second the Mike’s comment on the scroll saw above-I have a very good German one that I got off CL for $300. The DeWalt is common and gets good reviews as well. I use thicker (shop sawn) veneers and ‘double-bevel’ marquetry, but amazing stuff gets done with a knife.

Best,
Chris

[richard poitras]

[ATTACH=CONFIG]497518
Adam here is one I did in the Paul Schurch method with no gaps or fillers. I did this at a class I took at the Mark Adams School with Paul.

Richard

[Adam Augustine]

I don't have permissions on this website to see the picture. I have used paul's method with mixed results. Every so offten, I have one come out where you can see where the glue has filled in the saw kerf. What size blade are you using?

[Mike Henderson]

I don't remember what blade I use the most in my scroll saw but it's small. I agree with Richard about the kerf not showing in the Paul Schurch method. Paul does some really high end stuff and if there were big kerfs showing it wouldn't look nice.

I've done a fair amount with his method and no one has ever said there were big gaps.

The slant cut technique is good but it doesn't work (easily) with commercial veneer. That veneer is too thin. To use the slant cut method, you need thicker veneers which usually means you have to cut your own. And that limits your choices.

I think Silas Kopf had a video at one time, and Paul Schurch has one. I'm more familiar with Paul's (and I took a class with him) and the video will teach you his technique.

Mike

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[Jim Becker]

I don't have permissions on this website to see the picture.
Please become a Contributor so you have image viewing, private messaging and access to the Classifieds...$6 a year. Click on the "donate" button up at the top of the page.

[richard poitras]

I think Silas Kopf had a video at one time.

Mike

]

Silas, uses the double bevel method ... as I have his video also.
Richard

[richard poitras]

What size blade are you using?

#2/0 - .010” thick- 26 to 30 tpi skip