block plane recommendation

[Peter Schussheim]

If you could choose just one, which block plane would you pick and why? I am trying to decide between a Lie-Nielsen 140 and a 60 1/2. From my understanding of the 140 it sounds like it is able to perform as a regular low angle block plane as well as convert to a rebate plane among other uses. Anything I am missing with this analysis?

[John Keeton]

Good luck finding a 140! I think you may just want to settle for the 60 1/2 until one appears on the scene. There is a bronze 140 for sale on FB for $600!!!

[Derek Cohen]

If you could choose just one, which block plane would you pick and why? I am trying to decide between a Lie-Nielsen 140 and a 60 1/2. From my understanding of the 140 it sounds like it is able to perform as a regular low angle block plane as well as convert to a rebate plane among other uses. Anything I am missing with this analysis?

I have both these planes. The #140 is more of a specialist plane. If it was just one, I'd get the #60 1/2. But also consider the Veritas DX60.

It is pretty, however ...

https://i.postimg.cc/3NYPhWSZ/7-B854706-C7-E4-4-CDF-AA75-7-CB1-FB726-BB1.png

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Nathan Johnson]

Good luck finding a 140! I think you may just want to settle for the 60 1/2 until one appears on the scene. There is a bronze 140 for sale on FB for $600!!!

They've been popping up in stock pretty regularly lately. They sell out fast, but they're getting there.

[mike stenson]

I also have both, while they both do live in the top till in my chest, the 60 1/2 gets the lions share of use. I have a left hand 140, because I used to use it for dovetails.. and that was a more convenient hold for me for that usage.

[Jim Koepke]

As another owner of both, my #60-1/2 planes get a lot more use than my #140.

My regular rabbet planes get more use than my #140.

As Derek said, "the #140 is a speciality plane."

In my opinion, you would do better by getting a pair of skewed rabbet planes for the situations a skewed blade has an advantage.

jtk

[Maurice Mcmurry]

My little work horse is this Stanley made in England 6 CFW. Bought at Ace hardware 40+ years ago.

497112

[Cameron Wood]

I've had a 60 1/2 rabbeting plane for many years and like it. It lives in the van in a leather sock.

If choosing just one block plane, I would get the #60 1/2. A rabbet plane wants to be finely tuned and babied, where a block plane is a workhorse.

[Peter Schussheim]

Thank you for all the responses, they have helped me greatly. I will look into the Veritas offerings as well.

[steven c newman]

Stanley No. 60-1/2 Block plane are plentiful, and fairly cheap.....I do have a spare, if you are interested...

Been using the No. 118, also a low angle block plane, but..IF you should ever drop it, it will NOT break...just reset the iron, and back to work..
497139
But, then again...this is Steel...and not iron, nor Bronze.....labeled as "Boy Proof" by Stanley.

[Matthew Cashman]

Rather than trying to identify the Platonic ideal of a block plane, I suggest getting several. I use mine a lot for little jobs, and it's nice to have them in a few spots or to be able to pick up a sharp one when the one in your hand is dull. Used Stanleys, Records, etc. do the job and aren't too dear.

[Rob Luter]

I have a #60 1/2 and a #102, both from LN. To be honest I use the #102 more often. I used to have a whole herd of Stanleys as Matthew suggests. Touching up the edge at the onset of a project is just as easy as trying to figure out which plane is the sharp one.

[Jim Koepke]

Rather than trying to identify the Platonic ideal of a block plane, I suggest getting several. I use mine a lot for little jobs, and it's nice to have them in a few spots or to be able to pick up a sharp one when the one in your hand is dull. Used Stanleys, Records, etc. do the job and aren't too dear.

My 3 Stanley #60-1/2 block planes get used more often than my LN #60-1/2. That is likely due to an old hand injury that makes the lighter and smaller Stanely design easier for me to hold.

My Stanley #65 & #65-1/2 also get used more than the LN.

The LN was purchased due to my frustration of trying to purchase an older Stanley with the full blade bed of the pre 1950s models. After purchasing the LN The two older Stanley #60-1/2s showed up on rust hunts at reasonable prices.

jtk

[Rafael Herrera]

No one seems to have mentioned weight. I bought one of those new Stanley "Sweetheart" 9 1/2 block planes a while ago. I find it unncessarily heavy (3 lb after a web search) and also don't care for the A2 iron. On one ocasion it just slipped out of my hand. The vintage block planes have a more reasonable weigth and are easier to sharpen. The LN planes don't seem as heavy, but I don't have one to compare.

[Michael Dean]

I much prefer a Stanley 65 or similar size. The 60 1/2 doesn't fit my hand nearly as well as the 65 size. I don't have one, but some folks like the Woodriver low angle version.

[Jack Dover]

I'd pick a model with adjustable mouth and with a good lever that corrects an iron skew. Vintage or new they're about the same after properly fettled, except the looks.

A mouth has to be adjustable to the point where it's completely close, or it will be hard to use it on curved surfaces or when blocking thin pieces.

Also I wish I would pass on a skew iron Irish chariot plane, it was about the size of #60 1/2, but would be quite a bit more useful for blocking purposes w\o being mechanically too complicated.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

No one seems to have mentioned weight. I bought one of those new Stanley "Sweetheart" 9 1/2 block planes a while ago. I find it unncessarily heavy (3 lb after a web search) and also don't care for the A2 iron. On one ocasion it just slipped out of my hand. The vintage block planes have a more reasonable weigth and are easier to sharpen. The LN planes don't seem as heavy, but I don't have one to compare.

Over a pound, under two, seems sweet to me.

497151

[Howard Pollack]

Personally, I think that the Veritas DX60 is a great plane. I was using it today and admiring how very well it worked. I suspect that many other block planes work very well also. Think about the work that you do and how the tool fits your individual style of working. -Howard

[Rob Luter]

I much prefer a Stanley 65 or similar size. The 60 1/2 doesn't fit my hand nearly as well as the 65 size. I don't have one, but some folks like the Woodriver low angle version.

A #65 is a nice plane. I had a couple vintage knuckle joint versions, along with a couple knuckle joint #18. Both are good sized block planes and comfortable in the hand.

[Cameron Wood]

Here's my assortment.

The left two are used jobsite. Middle one inherited from grandparents & repaired. Right one most tuned, & custom grooved bottom.


497157497158

[Jon Snider]

I looked in my plane drawer to confirm, I’ve got an embarrassment of block planes. Four kids and several Christmas gifts. They don’t seem to understand I don’t need 10 of these.

I have std and low angle block planes from LN and Veritas, plus the Dx60, a skew block plane snd a Rabbet one. The one that seems to end up in my hands the most is one of my two (yes, two) 102’s.

[Rob Luter]

I looked in my plane drawer to confirm, I’ve got an embarrassment of block planes. Four kids and several Christmas gifts. They don’t seem to understand I don’t need 10 of these.

I have std and low angle block planes from LN and Veritas, plus the Dx60, a skew block plane snd a Rabbet one. The one that seems to end up in my hands the most is one of my two (yes, two) 102’s.

The #102 is an often underappreciated tool. I had two vintage Stanleys at one time. Many consider them junk but they were my "go to" for chamfering and edge breaking. One had an exceptionally tight mouth and worked well for super fine cuts. They have new homes now, but my LN #102 gets plenty of use.

[chuck van dyck]

LN 102 with a doubt. Big fat bevel, easy to free hand sharpen, quick to set back up. Mine gets put through the ringer. From furniture to scribing millwork and cutting back drywall. It even gets a lot of use on the lathe when batching out tapered legs and whatnot. Easy to put in your pocket on trips to the lumber yard. I could go on.

Not sure why it doesn’t seem to need a super tight mouth, maybe because its blade thickness cuts back on any chatter?

Anyways, they rock and are worth the price.

Very few people I have spoken with who own the rabbet block plane like it as a block plane. You need to be able to grab a block plane single handed in all sorts of funky ways, at least I do. Sometimes pushing, sometimes pulling. Those corners and knickers will bite ya.

[Patrick Baney]

The #102 is an often underappreciated tool. I had two vintage Stanleys at one time. Many consider them junk but they were my "go to" for chamfering and edge breaking. One had an exceptionally tight mouth and worked well for super fine cuts. They have new homes now, but my LN #102 gets plenty of use.

I picked up a 102 late last year, being primarily a 60-1/2 user. The 102 is a little more mobile, but the open mouth scares me as I rarely work with straight grained woods. I'm usually not willing to risk the tear-out. How do you navigate this? It's sharp...

[Derek Cohen]

Patrick, I have a LN #103, which is the standard angle version of the #102. It came with a larger-than-desired mouth. Incidentally, I had a LN #101 (now sold), and the mouth on this was huge.

In both cases I fixed the mouth by shimming the bed. This raised the blade a smidgeon, which reduced the size of the mouth. I used brass shim for this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/gzjmMLdn/LN103-3a-zpsg9fhr6hf.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

It also serves the reduce the bed angle, in the case of the #103, it went. from 20 degrees to 19 degrees.

Great little plane. Mine uses an original (old!) O1 blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[James Pallas]

60 1/2. Unless you need the rabbeting ability. Just remember that a rabbeting plane goes along with the saying “It’ll cut you”.
Jim

[Cameron Wood]

Patrick, I have a LN #103, which is the standard angle version of the #102. It came with a larger-than-desired mouth. Incidentally, I had a LN #101 (now sold), and the mouth on this was huge.

In both cases I fixed the mouth by shimming the bed. This raised the blade a smidgeon, which reduced the size of the mouth. I used brass shim for this ...

https://i.postimg.cc/gzjmMLdn/LN103-3a-zpsg9fhr6hf.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

It also serves the reduce the bed angle, in the case of the #103, it went. from 20 degrees to 19 degrees.

Great little plane. Mine uses an original (old!) O1 blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek


Great idea. If the shim was only on the bed, did that require filing the shim to have the iron sit flat?

[Derek Cohen]

Great idea. If the shim was only on the bed, did that require filing the shim to have the iron sit flat?

No other work needed. It is really a simple process: cut the shim stock to size and glue with epoxy. Ensure all is smooth and flat. 10 minutes.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

The Stanley No. 60-1/2 I use most, out of 2 on hand...is the older version, with the full bed for the iron...

A Standard angle by Marsch also has a full bed for the iron to sit on.

There is also a Stanley 102 and a 103 in the Tool Cabinet....the 102 is made from Aluminum and weighs less than a Bottle of Guinness Draught Stout...

Kept out of the action...is a Type 2 No. 9-1/2......with OEM iron, no less.

Careful when buying Block Planes....worse than mice....turn around from 2, turn back around and there is 6 of the critters sitting there. (15 at last count!)

[Rob Luter]

I picked up a 102 late last year, being primarily a 60-1/2 user. The 102 is a little more mobile, but the open mouth scares me as I rarely work with straight grained woods. I'm usually not willing to risk the tear-out. How do you navigate this? It's sharp...

I'll be honest, my #102 has a mouth opening larger than I'd prefer. That said, I've never had an issue with it. Keep the cuts light and it's a non issue. Trying to take heavy cuts with a plane that small doesn't make any sense anyway.

[Peter Schussheim]

For those who own the DX60 and a Lie-Nielsen honing guide, does the DX60 blade fit? I understand it will not fit in an eclipse-style guide but haven't seen definitive answers on the LN guide.

[Scott Winners]

I am looking at the NX60/ DX60 pretty hard. My expectation is the LN guide will not/ cannot accept the LV60 plane iron as is - but I know, and you probably know, some dude or dude-ette with a 3D printer and some free time.

Another option might be - I haven't ordered an iron yet to try- is the LV "short blade honing guide" stock number 05m09.30. I suspect that will work, but it is a top rather than side clamping guide. To use that you cannot be ham-handed but instead have to be intelligent handed to use it to good effect on whatever stones you choose.

At my shop, the death of my block planes is truing up the otherwise finished hull of a boat almost but not quite ready for fiberglass. I end up standing on three legs and dropping my block plane on my concrete floor. I really should make a point to look for a drop in PMV-11 iron for my $15 homestore block plane before I spend the money on a LV60 block plane. I have a love/hate relationship with having a $200 iron in a $15 plane, but is usually the plane body that cracks when I drop one.

[David Carroll]

I have an old Stanley No. 18 that is my go to for most things, I like the knuckle jointed lever cap, it's large as block planes go, but I like it. A few years ago I got the LN 102 (mines an iron one) and I really like it. Mine has a really fine mouth so I use it for end-grain touch ups and breaking sharp corners without chamfering them noticeably. I also bought the LV Little Victor plane, I didn't really need it, but it was intriguing to me. I'm surprised how often I reach for it! I make a lot of toys and small crafty-things and it's perfect for lots of little tasks.

I also have the LN Rabbet block plane, which I bought thinking I'd trim tenon cheeks with it, mine doesn't have the nicker, but if you (ahem) purposefully make your face cuts with the tenon saw a stoke or two too deep, it is hardly necessary. I really don't use it that much. Sometimes to clean up a rabbet, but I have better planes for that.

DC

[Thomas Wilson]

Lie Nielsen makes a long jaw pair for their guide which I find is a more secure way to clamp the DX-60 blade.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/long-honing-guide-jaw-pair?path=honing-guide&node=4239

[Peter Schussheim]

Lie Nielsen makes a long jaw pair for their guide which I find is a more secure way to clamp the DX-60 blade.

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/products/long-honing-guide-jaw-pair?path=honing-guide&node=4239


Thanks Thomas. I assume the default jaw pair does not work at all for this blade?

[Derek Cohen]

I am looking at the NX60/ DX60 pretty hard. My expectation is the LN guide will not/ cannot accept the LV60 plane iron as is - but I know, and you probably know, some dude or dude-ette with a 3D printer and some free time.

Another option might be - I haven't ordered an iron yet to try- is the LV "short blade honing guide" stock number 05m09.30. I suspect that will work, but it is a top rather than side clamping guide. To use that you cannot be ham-handed but instead have to be intelligent handed to use it to good effect on whatever stones you choose.

At my shop, the death of my block planes is truing up the otherwise finished hull of a boat almost but not quite ready for fiberglass. I end up standing on three legs and dropping my block plane on my concrete floor. I really should make a point to look for a drop in PMV-11 iron for my $15 homestore block plane before I spend the money on a LV60 block plane. I have a love/hate relationship with having a $200 iron in a $15 plane, but is usually the plane body that cracks when I drop one.


Scott, I'll look at this today, even try for a few photos. I have the NX60 and a variety of guides, including the LN. I don't need or use a guide when sharpening this blade as I hollow grind to 25 degrees and freehand on that ... so do not know the match. I do know that it does not work with the Eclipse.

From my review: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

This appeared to favour honing using a honing guide. The outline of the blade is curvy, and the straight area is quite small. There is no difficulty using a blade with the LV Honing Guide Mk II (no surprises there!), however the blades cannot be held in an Eclipse guide.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_466a4cdc.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

With the Veritas block plane blades, any side clamping guide is going to have difficulties owing to the shape of the blade ...

https://i.postimg.cc/FsMmP9Q2/1.jpg

The rear is not gripped by the LN guide ...

https://i.postimg.cc/y80Ktw1W/2.jpg

Use the Veritas Mk 2 (not the side clamping version) ...


https://i.postimg.cc/7LD4kmh9/3.jpg

Beautiful block plane ...

https://i.postimg.cc/g0DWk86W/4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek