Glue brush discovery.

[Rob Luter]

Like many, I go through acid brushes pretty regularly using them to apply glue. I always need to prep them first by trimming the bristles and tightening the crimp that holds them in. Still, bristles fall out and they’re essentially a one use brush.

I was watching a video by Ishitani Furniture a while back and he was using toothbrushes. I happened to have a new brush that was inadvertently purchased with the wrong bristle stiffness so I gave it a whirl. They really work nice. The bristles hold a fair bit of glue and have enough stiffness to spread a nice controlled film. They wash up well too.

[chris carter]

I have never understood using those metal brushes which shed hairs for glue. They are great for really nasty stuff (grease, acid, oil, silicone, etc.), but for glue? Maybe epoxy I guess – that’s pretty nasty.

For white glue, yellow glue, hot or liquid hide glue, I use regular art paint brushes. They can be had for almost as cheap as the metal brushes, but they are VASTLY higher quality. They don’t shed. You can cut the wood handle to whatever length you want. They come in a billion sizes (just get a variety pack and you are good for any situation). They clean up in the sink very easily and the bristles don’t get messed up when you do. And they are DURABLE. In fact, I’ve been using the same two brushes for three or four years now! That’s a total cost of, um, 40 cents? And one of them was already used as a paint brush before I snatched it up (before I met my wife, she used to like to paint – so really, these were free to me). They are also much more precise for getting into difficult spots or when you can’t have any glue getting where it shouldn’t go.
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[Tom Bussey]

I agree Chris 100%. I think the ones you have pictured are the ones I use. Walmart has a better selection than Dollar General. I use brushes for acrylic paint. they clean in water. If you are using Titebond 1 even if you forget and it hardens on the brush just stich in a gar of water over overnight Ans it will be as good as new Titebond 11 takes a little longer but it can be done. I no not know about 111 , never tried it.

Tom

[John K Jordan]

Might sound crazy but I sometimes use these to apply and spread glue, Titebond and epoxy. They have flexible silicone “brush”, no bristles to come out. Glue does stick to them.

When I use acid brushes I always trim off the ends with scissors. I sometimes recrimp the metal holder and put s few drops of CA glue in the end.

I like the acid brushes for cleaning dust and fibers out of carvings and woodturning textures, dirt and grease from threads, brush paint and wax, etc. into fine detail an textures, clean and condition detail in leather on saddles and such. For all these I trim the bristles quite short (for stiffness), and at an angle of maybe 10 or 20-deg. I keep these brushes in two sizes. I use them less for wood glue than other things.

JKJ

[Lee Schierer]

Like many, I go through acid brushes pretty regularly using them to apply glue. I always need to prep them first by trimming the bristles and tightening the crimp that holds them in. Still, bristles fall out and they’re essentially a one use brush.

I was watching a video by Ishitani Furniture a while back and he was using toothbrushes. I happened to have a new brush that was inadvertently purchased with the wrong bristle stiffness so I gave it a whirl. They really work nice. The bristles hold a fair bit of glue and have enough stiffness to spread a nice controlled film. They wash up well too.

I've been using retired tooth brushes in the shop for many years to spread glue and other purposes. You can spread glue along long lengths of joint without having any glue run down the side of the piece. You can get a nice even spread across the edge of a board. After each use I place them in a container with some water. The next day or so I remove them from the water, whack them on the side of my shop sink and place them on the back of the sink for their next use. You can also cut them with a fine tooth hand saw to spread glue in tight places. I use them when doing repairs on the lawn mower to clean off grease gunk. I retire ones that get too beat up or that I forget to put in the water bath after use. A fresh supply shows up every few months.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I like all of these ideas! Another is a little clipping from an old paint roller stapled to a stick. Credit: The Gouegon Bros.

[steven c newman]

Have gone through 2 bags ( 36 each) of those acid brushes....and have yet to see any wayward bristles wandering around...may I ask what are you doing to them?

[roger wiegand]

I've been using these bridled glue brushes for years. The main one, a medium size, has been in at least weekly use (and some weeks almost continuous use) for upwards of 15 years now and is still going strong. It had gotten a bit short, so I recently "unbridled" it, and expect another decade or two of use. The big one can apply a lot of glue in a hurry.

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I also use acid brushes for stuff that would wreck my "good" brush; the ones I get from McMaster Carr are vastly superior and only a little more expensive than the ones that come off Amazon. The virtually neve shed and don't require any trim for use unless you need a stiffer brush.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have 5 little jars each with a little brush inside. 1 in paint thinner, 1 in lacquer thinner, 1 in denatured, 1 in acetone, 1 in soap and water. It takes a while to figure out which brush will survive in which solvent. None of mine are as pretty as Rogers. (well maybe 1 is).

[Rob Luter]

Have gone through 2 bags ( 36 each) of those acid brushes....and have yet to see any wayward bristles wandering around...may I ask what are you doing to them?

Nothing special as far as I know. I've purchased them at a number of different places and no matter what they seem to shed like a mangy dog. I crimp the metal down tight and trim the bristles back with a razor blade to get them a little stiffer and easier to control. It never seems to fail that I'll need to pick a couple bristles out of the glue joint with tweezers before clamp up. I might try to grab a couple artist brushes next time I'm at Wally World.

[Rob Luter]

I've been using these bridled glue brushes for years. The main one, a medium size, has been in at least weekly use (and some weeks almost continuous use) for upwards of 15 years now and is still going strong. It had gotten a bit short, so I recently "unbridled" it, and expect another decade or two of use. The big one can apply a lot of glue in a hurry.

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These look like good quality brushes. Do you recall where you found them?

[Cameron Wood]

I have never understood using those metal brushes which shed hairs for glue. They are great for really nasty stuff (grease, acid, oil, silicone, etc.), but for glue? Maybe epoxy I guess – that’s pretty nasty.

For white glue, yellow glue, hot or liquid hide glue, I use regular art paint brushes. They can be had for almost as cheap as the metal brushes, but they are VASTLY higher quality. They don’t shed. You can cut the wood handle to whatever length you want. They come in a billion sizes (just get a variety pack and you are good for any situation). They clean up in the sink very easily and the bristles don’t get messed up when you do. And they are DURABLE. In fact, I’ve been using the same two brushes for three or four years now! That’s a total cost of, um, 40 cents? And one of them was already used as a paint brush before I snatched it up (before I met my wife, she used to like to paint – so really, these were free to me). They are also much more precise for getting into difficult spots or when you can’t have any glue getting where it shouldn’t go.
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Here, here!! I'd been thinking of starting a thread about this. Folks spend thousands of $ on special squares and jigs, then slop glue around with junk.

I wore out a pretty decent artist brush after years, and have been experimenting with some middling quality ones, but I think I will go back to the art supply for something better.

the experimentation has shown the value of smaller sizes.

Here are the current ones, and the brush washer- a vitamin bottle with a hole punched in the top. The water gets changed a few times a year, and the brushes are OK with being left overnight if you don't take them out.

Relative to an acid brush, the longer handle provide more control- that's why artists use them.

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[Jim Koepke]

Like many, I go through acid brushes pretty regularly using them to apply glue. I always need to prep them first by trimming the bristles and tightening the crimp that holds them in. Still, bristles fall out and they’re essentially a one use brush.

Something learned many years ago about acid brushes is instead of trimming the bristles, push them back into the metal to the length desired or a little longer than desired if you want to trim them. Then crimp the metal. This helps to keep bristles from falling out and the bristles can be pulled out later if needed.

Acid brushes are uncomfortable in my hands. Art brushes with stiff bristle also work fine for applying glue. Titebond III will wash out if it is caught before it dries.

Lee Valley sells what are listed as "Disposable Natural-Bristle Brushes" in sizes from 1/2 to 3".

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The 1/2" size is inexpensive at 10 for $5.50. One of my orders a few years ago packs of various sizes of these were purchased. This is a lot cheaper than what they sell for in the Borgs or an art & crafts supply store.

They are used and cleaned for many tasks in the shop. The handles are sanded and sometimes given a coat of shellac or tung oil. The bristles are trimmed and the metal is crimped if needed. There are usually one or two on my bench for cleaning dust and shavings from planes.

jtk

[Patrick McCarthy]

These look like good quality brushes. Do you recall where you found them?

The photo is lifted from Tools for Working Wood - i Googled "bridled glue brushes" $7 to $45 each, depending upon size . . . .

[Thomas McCurnin]

For mortises and tenons, I use the acid brushes. I've never seen an errant bristles, and if I did, it would not bother me at all.

The Paul Sellers method that I was taught is to use wooden sticks to spread the glue.

For any surface larger than say an inch, I will use a disposable paint brush or a small roller, or old credit card. For larger surfaces, a notched credit card also works. I also have been known to use a plastic putty knife into which I have cut notches.

[roger wiegand]

These look like good quality brushes. Do you recall where you found them?

Easiest to buy them from https://toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/MS-BRID.XX (while you're there buy a Grammercy shellac brush, it will change your life if you like shellac-- don't look at the price, just press the button. You won't regret it!)

[Kent A Bathurst]

"Disposable Natural-Bristle Brushes" in sizes from 1/2 to 3".

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The 1/2" size is inexpensive

aka "chip brush". BORG, Amazon, all the usual suspects. I have a couple of the 1/2".

Crimp the ferrule. Weep some thin CA glue into the ferrule. Trim the bristles. These two are several years old - I soak in water before use, and rinse in water after use.

My thought on the CA was to set the bristles, but I'm suspecting it also helps longevity by keeping water out.

[Reed Gray]

Well, I was a concrete finisher for 30 years. I used to use popsicle sticks. Some times I would use the core from the foam brushes which were 1 inch wide. Notch the blade like one of the formica adhesive spreaders and that worked great too. Haven't tried the toothbrush yet, but that would work for edge gluing boards. The popsicle sticks worked great for tenons and mortices.

robo hippy

[mike stenson]

For really wide glue-ups, I've been using 1/8" v notched plastic trowels. Another odd ball option that works great.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I agree Chris 100%. I think the ones you have pictured are the ones I use. Walmart has a better selection than Dollar General. I use brushes for acrylic paint. they clean in water. If you are using Titebond 1 even if you forget and it hardens on the brush just stich in a gar of water over overnight Ans it will be as good as new Titebond 11 takes a little longer but it can be done. I no not know about 111 , never tried it.

Tom

I forgot to clean a brush used for III. An overnight soak in latex caulk remover brought it back. I am glad it is a favorite brush.

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[Thomas Crawford]

I only use the acid brushes. I trim the ends before I use them. After use I put them in a cup of water. It just sits in that cup till the next time I need it. The water gets gross and cloudy full of glue. It doesn't matter, I pull it out, give it a wash and rinse out the cup and use it again. I'm probably go 4-6 months between replacing them, only when the bristles start to fall out or I accidentally leave it out and glue dries on it.

Edit to add I only use those brushes for small glue ups. Big stuff obviously it would take forever to spread.

[Jim Koepke]

For any surface larger than say an inch, I will use a disposable paint brush or a small roller, or old credit card.

One of my go to disposable applicators for spreading a lot of glue is a box of old business cards. The credit card comapnies used to send out a lot of plastic advertising credit cards. I have used them mostly for spreading glue on dowels:

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More on that and other dowelling helpers > https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?256011

jtk

[Rob Luter]

Agreed Jim. A card makes for a good spreader on a broad flat surface. A fine toothed plastic tile compound spreader works great too.

[Jim McCue]

I've been using plastic artist palette knives. They have them at the dollar store or craft store. They appear to be the same material as credit cards, but tapered and in different shapes. They have metal ones too but they get rusty or corroded.

I used to get the platic shoppers cards at the grocery store or gas station to save, but they've stopped giving those out the last few years. Now it's all online or on your phone. Can't use that for spreading glue.

[Rob Luter]

I've been using plastic artist palette knives. They have them at the dollar store or craft store. They appear to be the same material as credit cards, but tapered and in different shapes. They have metal ones too but they get rusty or corroded.

I used to get the platic shoppers cards at the grocery store or gas station to save, but they've stopped giving those out the last few years. Now it's all online or on your phone. Can't use that for spreading glue.I guess you could, but it promises to create other difficulties.

[James Pallas]

I like stencil brushes. They are fairly cheap and come in different diameters. Sets of five are available. You can put a small rubber band around the bristles to shorten and stiffen them up if needed. As easy to clean as any others, except silicone.
Jim

[steven c newman]

Just wondering....remember back when, that one would either use a finger...or that plastic tab that seal the wrappers on loaves of bread?

Glue up a few boards to make a panel: beads of glue along the edges, then rub the boards together a bit, until they "stick" in place..usually an inch each way..
Olde School?

[mike stenson]

Bread? That doesn't come in paper bags?

[Clifford McGuire]

I still use a finger, almost exclusively.

[mike calabrese]

I found these silicone food baster brushes to be the best overall . The advantages I have found over bristle brushes of any kind is :
They cost next to nothing
Dried out glue simply pulls off even days after it long dried up
no need to store them in water
bristles never come off
The only modification required is to clip the long bristles back to about 1/2 inch in length.
Primarily for me they speed up adding glue to the many many pieces for segmented turned bowls.
here is a link to the brushes I bought there are many options and sources
calabrese55
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PNNL4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Cameron Wood]

I still use a finger, almost exclusively.



I'm guessing that you have a lot of clean up after gluing up some mortise and tenons or dovetails.

[steven c newman]

Used the acid brush this morning, in fact...
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Lots of through dovetails to moosh the glue around in...no hairs seen..

[Jim Koepke]

I still use a finger, almost exclusively.

My reason for ending the use of a finger during glue up is what happened the time my nose started itching.

jtk

[Rob Luter]

I found these silicone food baster brushes to be the best overall . The advantages I have found over bristle brushes of any kind is :
They cost next to nothing
Dried out glue simply pulls off even days after it long dried up
no need to store them in water
bristles never come off
The only modification required is to clip the long bristles back to about 1/2 inch in length.
Primarily for me they speed up adding glue to the many many pieces for segmented turned bowls.
here is a link to the brushes I bought there are many options and sources
calabrese55
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082PNNL4T/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These would work well on LARGE scale projects. I need more precision. Something 1/4” wide with the same construction would be handy.

[mike calabrese]

These would work well on LARGE scale projects. I need more precision. Something 1/4” wide with the same construction would be handy.

have a look at these smaller silicone brushes
calabrese55
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=silicone+glue+brushes+woodworking&crid=1CP8ABDPCW8SV&sprefix=silicon+glue%2Caps%2C179&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_2_12

[mike stenson]

I have a set of the 1/2" and 1" sil-brushes in that link. I do use them, they're easy to clean. I do use a pallet knife for most joinery though. I don't like having to clean the glue from my fingers off my work, and I know me. When I use a finger, I always have to.

[Rob Luter]

I have a set of the 1/2" and 1" sil-brushes in that link. I do use them, they're easy to clean. I do use a pallet knife for most joinery though. I don't like having to clean the glue from my fingers off my work, and I know me. When I use a finger, I always have to.

I have a pallet knife in the drawer of misfit tools. I'll have to give it a shot.

[chuck van dyck]

Old saw blades work great as glue spreaders as well as glue scrapers. A used up Irwin pull saw blade and a grinder of some sort and you can get any shape you need, and lots of them.
I grind the teeth off fully but just had the thought while writing this, there may be some benefit to leaving the teeth to some degree to form those nice glue ridges.

[mike stenson]

I have a pallet knife in the drawer of misfit tools. I'll have to give it a shot.

Very handy in tight spots.

https://photos.smugmug.com/Woodworking/Shop/Tools/Veritas-Small-Plow-Box/i-JbrFPQ7/0/0cc87ba5/L/IMG_8041-L.jpg

[Cameron Wood]

I always have in mind James Krenov saying in one of his books

(paraphrasing) "Beyond some tiny beads to show there was enough, any glue that squeezes out should not have been there in the first place."

Not saying my glue-ups reflect that, but I think about it...

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I always have in mind James Krenov saying in one of his books

(paraphrasing) "Beyond some tiny beads to show there was enough, any glue that squeezes out should not have been there in the first place."

Not saying my glue-ups reflect that, but I think about it...

I added James Krenov to my reading list. Mom won't rest until I read War and Peace and The Brothers K. Woodworking content might be just the thing to get me stared. Thanks!