Resaw question

[Matt McGill]

Hi Everyone.
Would love to know what I ought to be doing differently...
I own a Laguna 18 BX (the blade info is below...)

I'm trying to cut 2 in thick Indian acacia, I'm pushing the wood through slowly, but it's burning the wood. I'm not putting any pressure on the wood at the blade (or after it), so I'm not squeezing the wood...If you look at the picture, the burning starts at the beginning of the cut, before it's past the blade...

The pic below shows the inside (burned) and the outside... to show the contrast...
Help! I have another piece to cut!!
thanks!

495939

using:

Timber Wolf® 1” x 2/3VPC
Blade Designation: Resawing Kiln Dry Domestic Wood

Width: 1"
TPI (Tooth Per Inch): 2/3
Tooth Design: VPC (variable positive claw)
Blade Thickness: .035
Kerf: .059
Tooth Hook Angle: 6.5°
Tooth Set Pattern: 5 Raker Set
Radius of Cut: 7 1/8”

Thickness of Work Material to be cut
Kiln Dry Wood: Hardwood 3" - 12" Softwood 3" - 10"

[Edward Weber]

I would suspect a dull blade.

[Michael Burnside]

Dull blade and/or going too slow. That said, sometimes certain species of wood is more prone to burning. I've never ripped Indian Acacia to know for sure. Does it do the same thing if you rip it on the table saw with a good blade? If so, it's probably just wood prone to burning. But otherwise, I'd say the blade is too dull.

[James Jayko]

IIRC the wood is exceptionally hard. In wood like that, I think I'd start with a brand new blade...

Is the wood pinching the blade as you move through the cut? I have no idea how much acacia moves when you resaw it.

[Michael Burnside]

IIRC the wood is exceptionally hard. In wood like that, I think I'd start with a brand new blade...

Is the wood pinching the blade as you move through the cut? I have no idea how much acacia moves when you resaw it.

Very good point about moving while being resawn. If it's kiln dry and really is dry, then it won't move, but if it has any trapped moisture, that for sure is something to consider.

[Andrew Hughes]

If it’s not a dull blade your looking at. That’s some very difficult wood to resaw. It could have silica in it a lot of the exotic rain forest woods have both resin and sand.
Good Luck

[John TenEyck]

I'd guess dull blade first, misaligned blade causing the wood to pinch against the fence, wet wood (which is what it looks like in the photo), or blade pinching. Acacia is really hard stuff. I don't think a regular blade will cut many feet before it dulls. A carbide blade would be my choice.

John

[Edward Weber]

Do you know what species of Acacia, scientific name for your species?
There are many kinds of Acacia and they vary quite a lot

[Lee Schierer]

Just an off the wall thought. Is you drive belt tight enough. If you can't cut very fast, it may be because the belt is slipping and the wheels are slowing down. When I first tried ripping with my band saw, I had a similar problem on thicker cuts. When I checked the belt, it wasn't very tight and it was slipping under load. My cuts went much faster after the belt was tightened.

[John K Jordan]

Very good point about moving while being resawn. If it's kiln dry and really is dry, then it won't move, but if it has any trapped moisture, that for sure is something to consider.

Or if the wood is dry but has internal stresses the wood can move as the blade cuts, either tightening or loosening the kerf.

[Tom Trees]

Are the teeth still sharp to the touch, if so, the set has possibly become compressed.
Can you see much flutter, how about at reduced tension, that I reckon would be from wheels needing alignment

Really pushing the boat out cutting a circle at pretty much the minimum diameter for the blade, and asking for trouble.
I wonder why so many folks get extremely wide blades for their machines, perhaps the carbide blades are the reason for it,
and some test run a regular blade before splashing out?
Could it be some other videos out there suggesting such a blade, I'd think not, but wouldn't be surprised if one particular youtube might be
the reason folks think blade tension needn't be such a big deal.

Good luck
Tom

[Matt McGill]

Do you know what species of Acacia, scientific name for your species?
There are many kinds of Acacia and they vary quite a lot

I don't know what the species is!

[Matt McGill]

I would suspect a dull blade.

This could be it, although I haven't used the blade very often... someone else mentioned using a carbide blade...

[Matt McGill]

Just an off the wall thought. Is you drive belt tight enough. If you can't cut very fast, it may be because the belt is slipping and the wheels are slowing down. When I first tried ripping with my band saw, I had a similar problem on thicker cuts. When I checked the belt, it wasn't very tight and it was slipping under load. My cuts went much faster after the belt was tightened.

I will check this out, thanks for the idea!

[Matt McGill]

Or if the wood is dry but has internal stresses the wood can move as the blade cuts, either tightening or loosening the kerf.

I don't think the wood is pinching the blade because the burning happens before the wood has cleared the blade ... it's happening from the beginning of the cut...

[John Kananis]

Going to agree on dull blade.

That aside, looks like you're resawing that right in half. If so, remove some material from the opposing side of the resaw or the boards will cup.

[Matt McGill]

Thanks everyone for your feedback, this is the best place on the web for advice!

[Jamie Buxton]

....That aside, looks like you're resawing that right in half. If so, remove some material from the opposing side of the resaw or the boards will cup.

When I'm resawing veneer, I glue the veneer stock to a backer board. The backer can be solid wood or plywood. When most of the stock has been sliced into veneer, and the remaining stock is getting thin, the backer holds the stock flat.

[John Kananis]

When I'm resawing veneer, I glue the veneer stock to a backer board. The backer can be solid wood or plywood. When most of the stock has been sliced into veneer, and the remaining stock is getting thin, the backer holds the stock flat.

I like that even better (in conjuction with?) a second outboard fence.

[Dave Sabo]

n.b. - you gotta get a narrower blade regardless . That saw won't properly tension a 1" wide blade.

3/4" max and you'd prob. get just as good a cut with a 1/2".

[Michael Burnside]

That saw is rated for a 1-1/4" blade, not sure why you think it won't properly tension a 1" wide blade. Maybe it isn't tensioned properly, but that's not my point. Having said that, I rip using my Laguna 3/4" Carbide Resawking and it cuts anything I've tried like butter, so the point of using a thinner blade is valid.

[John TenEyck]

When I'm resawing veneer, I glue the veneer stock to a backer board. The backer can be solid wood or plywood. When most of the stock has been sliced into veneer, and the remaining stock is getting thin, the backer holds the stock flat.

A tall feather board makes that unnecessary, Jamie. Keeps your hands out of harms way, too.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BhNqSkh3crgxRhZoIxvT1lhv5AK2pHL6pqlBe4e2-rqC7RmhvxeM14-qRAvwUIV0m3EK9lBVAWwLhVOZRdSvJGZA__8kxYOMKo6hDhn05 RS-qqIBAunxRa9rYAiuMVkf56LHEjjaMdWiNPO6pi9_gzHA=w503-h893-no?authuser=1


https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8C1qbj7BXVEHxJ1BBnd86k9UmrVLYUUCMGEWp5Z19oDk_ 3_9yrAimxHNo_r2gkuyzubBklVhaBi4BHFFV4rpneJHWjv6Q_u 6n-AryqkP15GnMfgkzyeXUwkmQouOkV5bkFUObHx6SHrrpDA4yjMw DAhqg=w503-h893-no?authuser=1

John

[John Kananis]

John, what does the business side (blade side) of that outboard fence (featherboard?) look like? If you don't mind me asking.

[John TenEyck]

John, what does the business side (blade side) of that outboard fence (featherboard?) look like? If you don't mind me asking.

You can learn more about it here, John: https://sites.google.com/view/jteneyck-woodworker/current-projects/tall-bandsaw-feather-board?authuser=1

Here are some more photos:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8AXd-NVdBMWUi6gITIYmFZbnyfzMT26bL30gh8ftX5NfyJ1pW1whX_B gzOyDvDa9VH_aRalwfjJg-Wcyz6DWMmbybAy4uoCNxh1IKtWxwfPZ0T6O93itS0pW6H7BewO egCN_zSgudeZ7oR2MPk2NQ3aFw=w1190-h893-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8Bp7t_FeTwmz2tYQV9oS3L-ZuVdZ_U7d1HJuow-eHtM4gLb7bNNHyDPZWgCby0GWGGBVrYYDM4awt58fV-w0SSbC3wYX1i5fkE8Wft43A6GaEndN4AKqZxplNkYY-IATqG38amuPSmE5Uzjd1BSsKqCpA=w1190-h893-no?authuser=1

The rollers press the wood to the tall fence just in front of the blade. The tall fence looks like this on the back side, and is clamped both to the low cast iron fence and to the table once it's adjusted. This prevents the fence from any tipping from the force of the rollers pushing the stock against the fence.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AMWts8BXHJ1faagN7EhYca9ASPSC_BgKOzGgQlhLFxi8HOiVAo zIcEZkioxUzXpj7aFlcpTOHDCvDhwa2pURUbXSf6rGdUzydRuV ZIkJ2sR7SPUMMjLQ83xzie6zmRwi2k261OR_6vBw-rh-XnhsT2Hwv2s4iQ=w1190-h893-no?authuser=1


John

[Dave Sabo]

not sure why you think it won't properly tension a 1" wide blade.


Because the frame isn't heavy /stiff enough. Spring should be more stout too.

And, you prove my other point with your results with a 3/4" blade. You think going to a 1"er is going to result in a better cut for you ?

[Edward Weber]

Most saws seems to list their blade capacity higher than it realistically is..
My saw is rated for a 1" blade but Looking at where I have the 3/4" blade tensioned to, a 1" would be a waste since I couldn't properly tension it. There is also no need for a blade that wide for small scale re-sawing.
Align the saw, support the wood and that's really all you need.
I feel too many try to over complicate or over think it.
JMHO

[John K Jordan]

Are the teeth still sharp to the touch…?

One thing about feeling for sharpness. When I move the skin of my finger or thumb up the teeth they will usually feel sharp even when they are not.

The way I test for sharpness is to slide the flat of my fingernail( or thumbnail) up the teeth. If the blade is dull the teeth will slide on the nail without catching. If the blade is still sharp each tooth will catch on the nail.

When it feels dull I immediately change to a new blade. Or stop and sharpen.

JKJ

[John TenEyck]

The only way to know what a saw is capable of is to actually measure the tension in a blade.

John

[Tom Trees]

Haha, one might get an impression that I do this a hundred times a day, due to my nails having pits already.:eek:

I think it might be insightful to check, should burning be present, or plane old refusal to cut, for no apparent reason.
Still was experiencing this myself after all my possible red herrings of work, (documented elimination of sorts you could say)
and kept the last test pieces of an auld length of softwood to compare, that's with 2 new blades to compare,
whilst being considerate regarding blade set compression?...(my inkling, though this could be warpage, I don't really know, only just that I've got a box of old and seemingly still sharp blades from different vendors)
and looking forward to see if my last phase of work will be successful.
I made sure not to inspect the fore and aft movement whilst hand turning wheels, for some speculative conversation and the momentum of the unknown.

Going to paint soon, some video documentation required, and some small experiments thereafter, before I can progress to any test cutting.
If this fails, and double checking everything again...
then I'll be needing a dial indicator, and trying to glean what snippets I can from Peter Sefton's youtube videos.

I really hope not to have to watch those videos again, but at least it seems I wouldn't be jumping the gun as it were,
after my wheel and motor pulley alignment proof tests.
If what I'm saying sounds similar, then it might be worth looking at my recent responses regarding tire replacement options.
That is......... once everything else can be proved not to be the trouble.

All the best
Tom

[John Kananis]

You can learn more about it here, John:

Thank you for the pics and the link. I really like your design.

[John TenEyck]

Thank you for the pics and the link. I really like your design.

Thanks, but it's John Lanciani's design. I just developed a drawing and list of parts to make one. Had the GuidePro feather board been available, or maybe it was and I didn't know about it, I might have considered that first. With the extension, it will accommodate stock up to 10" high. That said, I really like how John's design protects the operator from ever getting their hands into the blade. That feature alone is as much benefit to me as how well it keeps the stock pressed against the fence.

John


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DXC35CH/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&aaxitk=cd16861b693348a2a050a1f96f82a562&content-id=amzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d%3Aamzn1.sym.7dd77237-72be-4809-b5b5-d553eab7ad9d&hsa_cr_id=0&pd_rd_plhdr=t&pd_rd_r=f65ebbf6-2097-4809-a578-eeef1be2ca7f&pd_rd_w=xtoG5&pd_rd_wg=nghx6&qid=1677163261&ref_=sbx_be_s_sparkle_lsi4d_asin_1_img&sr=1-2-9e67e56a-6f64-441f-a281-df67fc737124&th=1

[Matt McGill]

For what it's worth, I got the resaw king (carbide tipped) and it didn't burn the other piece of wood (that was from the same piece that was burned originally...)

[Christopher Charles]

Sharp fixes most things :)

Glad you got it solved and suspect you'll enjoy the new set up.

Best,
Chris