Thinking of adding a larger Bandsaw

[ChrisA Edwards]

I've had a Laguna 14/12 for about 5 years, like the saw, but it feels under powered when trying to resaw anything over 4". I have the 3/4" Resaw King blade, on my second one after the original snapped a week after being sharpened. So I don't think an alternate blade will offer me a better approach, but I'm open to suggestions.

I'm leaning towards the Grizzly G0531B 21" 5HP 240V/Singe Phase. Delivered, it's around $3300.

It has a motor brake and not a foot brake.

I can spend more, but I'm not sure how much of a better saw I would get, but also open to suggestions.

I scan local Ads and FB, but really see anything used that perks my interest.

Thanks

[Dave Roock]

https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/shop/bandsaws-sc110014/bandsaw-felder-fb-510-sp1784168 Here is a very excellent upgrade.

[Alex LaZella]

I would get the Grizzly. Good bandsaws for the money. I have a Grizzly 17" that I have never had a spot of trouble with. I have an SCM jointer planer that even though it cost well over twice my Grizzly bandsaw (think it might have been 3 times as much) seems to have been designed by a drunken moron with the attendant problems to boot. Bottom line don't believe all the Grizzly hate. Some of their stuff may very well be junk but a lot of it is not. I think they have the bandsaw thing figured out pretty well. Good luck with whatever saw you end up with

[Joel Gelman]

I will be selling my Laguna 24/24, mint with Carter guides and mobility base in the next 4-6 weeks. I am in So Cal and perhaps local would be your preference for used in particular. I am going 30 inch vintage. If interested, message me.

[Aaron Inami]

Do you do a lot of different things on your Laguna 14/12? Or are you just looking to re-saw?

If you do a bunch of different things that require both power and accuracy, the best "bang for the buck" item I can see is the Harvey Alpha 15" bandsaw. It will feel just a tiny bit larger/heavier than your 14/12, but it has a beefier 3HP motor. The Harvey is a very well engineered saw for the price point ($3k or $2400 on sale). There is a lot of things designed better on this saw than other saws. It's not going to win any "brute force" power contests, but it will definitely be a better engineered and more powerful saw than the 14/12. The Harvey appears to have really good dust collection (although re-sawing logs is going to throw dust all over the table regardless of which bandsaw you use).

If you are wanting to do mostly re-saw or have a lot of 4x6 material to work with, the Grizzly you are looking at is great or Joel's Laguna 24x24. His Laguna is a step up in physical size from the Grizzly, but still has the 5HP motor and it is Italian made. That being said, it may be above your budget if the saw's "new retail price" is $7299. There is also the issue of getting it transported from California to Tennesee both safely and insured with a company that knows what they are doing when palletizing and handling heavy machinery (the 24x24 is 800 lbs and 8 feet tall). If the shipping company screws up and damages this item, your are likely out the purchase price of the bandsaw since your alternative is to sue the shipping company which may require lawsuits filed in multiple/different states.

The Felder FB510 that Dave suggested is a very high end accurate and extremely well engineered and built saw. The downside is that the price will likely be close to $6k once you add tax and shipping, unless you live close to a Felder showroom/warehouse and want to risk doing your own trailer (checking that your insurance company will cover the machinery transport on a trailer). The Felder sits in at 4HP and the physical size is between your 14/12 and the Grizzly. It's, essentially, a 16" bandsaw. One thing that concerned me about the Felder is that the fence is so short. It may be difficult to resaw stuff like weirdly shaped logs (unless you build your own resaw fence).

One thing about the Grizzly is that it is manufactured at a lower cost which means there are a lot of compromises on the design and materials. There are likely going to be things that "feel" better and operate better on your Laguna 14/12 than they would on the Grizzly (such as fence mechanism and movement, door latches, tensioning wheels, guides, etc., etc.). Probably the bandsaws that would feel "best" to operate are the Harvey Alpha, Felder and Laguna LT (italian) bandsaws. If you are not picky about how certain functions work or if certain items feel a little "chincy", then the 5HP Grizzly can "brute force" what you need for the lowest cost.

[Aaron Inami]

If you're still considering Grizzly, another idea is the Jet JWBS-20-5. I would say the Jet is like a higher quality version of the Grizzly G0531B that you are looking at. Almost the same machine, but with higher quality manufacturing and parts. Though, keep in mind that these Grizzly and Jet bandsaws are old school designs based on 20 years ago.

https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-20-bandsaw-5hp-model-jwbs-20-5

I think Harvey is leading the way in re-inventing how certain parts of the machine are designed and engineered, but they are targeting the mid-level machine market. The Laguna LT series and Felder machines are likely to feel more "solid" than the Harvey, but they are definitely more expensive.

Here's a good video about what this guy noticed on his Laguna 18|BX (which is the same Chinese manufactured series as your 14|12):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eMofAMyaSI

[Tom M King]

I large bandsaw running a 1" blade for resawing is almost like a different type of machine than a smaller bandsaw. The wood parts with very little effort and the speed of cut is what puts it into a different category. A 24" can be ten times faster than a 14" making the same cut.

I bought the 24" for making Cypress shingles. A 27" cut that took 20 seconds with the 14" was as fast as I could push it through on the 24" at maybe 2 seconds.

[Alan Lightstone]

Again, we don't know your budget, but I'm extremely happy with my Felder FB710. A definite nice step up for you. No simple task to move it. It's 8' tall (maybe slightly more). I had professional riggers do it, who did a great job. Felder just delivered it to a freight terminal not too far from me.
https://www.felder-group.com/en-us/products/bandsaws-c1958/bandsaw-professional-line-p142939

It's an 18" bandsaw, but its price will be a step up from what Dave had mentioned above. Works quite well for me for all tasks, including resawing.

If you can wait until July, you could go to the AWFS show in Vegas and usually be able to pick up a floor model cheap if you get there early to arrange it. Though shipping from Delaware would likely be cheaper for you than Vegas.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I do have a Laguna 24/36 lathe and do a bit of turning. Currently I would never attempt to dimension logs on it.

My neighbor has the Jet 18" and quite often, when I need to resaw, I take my lumber down to his saw.

Recently I had some kiln dried Purpleheart, Maple and Walnut and wanted to resaw some 13/16th's to get two pieces. I tried initially with my 14/12 (with new blade), it was a battle. So I carried my wood down to my friends house, it was much easier. He also has a 1" Resaw King blade on with Jet.

I was looking at various 17"/18" saws, but this Grizzy falls into my budget and is a little larger capacity.

I don't think the Jet has a brake, which I feel is a nice to have.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I had a kid in the candy store experience setting up a Laguna 24. It is dedicated for re-sawing, with a power feed and roller fence. It is a very satisfying power tool.

[Jared Sankovich]

I have the shopfox w1770 foot brake version of the G0531B. It's been a great saw, and can properly tension a 1" woodmaster ct. Before I got my latest planer I was using it to resaw 12" tall drawer stock from 1" to 5/8" since it was considerably faster than planning it down.

[Tom Trees]

Just putting my vote out there for used three phase, in good running condition which could be got for the same money.

Even the cheapo VFD's have internal breaking (i.e not needing resistor which sucks power via kinetic energy)
which in my opinion makes the nicest brake of all, as you can easily program it to stop whenever you want. (within reason on the cheapo's, I think I've got my 24" set to "coast" stop at 7 sec, which takes about 15 seconds, or something like that.

.Wire as many cheap switches as you like, wherever you wish, not complicated whatsoever.
I put one under the table aswell, so could use handsfree with my hip.
Not used a foot brake, but I imagine it might be a PITA having to use your foot.

To clarify though, my machine has a large table, and not like the compact far eastern machines which small tables, which I wouldn't want to go back to after using mine...
and likely wouldn't suggest using my hip either, as it would put one so close to the blade!
Plus the fact not much support for cutting tenons for example.

[Patrick Kane]

How much ceiling height do you have? Some of the bigger saws are quite tall. If you can swing it, i would advocate for a 24"+ saw. They are just in another class above the 18-20" group, which is a head above the 14" group. It all depends on what you ideally want to achieve, but it sounds like you want a more robust resaw/ripping machine. I have a 20" laguna/acm, and it's a really nice jack-of-all-trades saw. I can run a 1/4" blade for tight curves, but it can also tension a 1"+/- carbide blade for resawing. If we really compare saws, i imagine Tom's 24" SCM is several hundred pounds heavier and a much more robust saw. All of this equates to much more efficient and faster cutting.

When i have a new space, i will absolutely target a used 36"+ saw to pair with my 20" acm.

[ChrisA Edwards]

My ceiling is 10', and my garage doors are tall also, so I'm not too restricted there.

I have about 900 sq/ft of workshop which is getting pretty crowded, so this saw will be on a mobile base, but hopefully positioned where I can use it without having to move it.

All my tools are on mobile bases and most of them get moved for use other than my tables saw.

My CNC Spindle and Lathe use VFD's, so take the 240V and make it 3 Phase, but I don't see the advantage of trying to go 3 phase unless you can supply 440V.

[John TenEyck]

If power and resaw height are you primary objectives you should consider the Grizzly G0636X. 17" saw with 5 HP motor, and manual foot brake so there's one less thing to go wrong compared to a motor brake, and easily tensions a 1" blade. My measurements show it can put 25 ksi on a 1-3/8" blade, the largest recommended for the saw. It weighs well over 600 lbs, more than the larger G0531B you are considering, so that should tell you something about stiffness and robustness. It costs more than the G0531B, too, another indication of mass and capability, yet it's much lower cost than any of its nearest competitors. The resaw height is more as well.

I've had a G0636X for about 5 years now and can attest to what a great saw it is for resawing and veneer slicing with a 1" Woodmaster CT on it. It's on a mobile base so I can move it when needed, which is nearly never in my case. The fence is very good and easy to use. All the controls are easy to use, including the tensioning lever. The tension gauge is actually accurate, too. I've replaced the guide bearings for the first time just last month. Nothing more.

John

[Bernie Kopfer]

Amazing how readily we want to help you spend your money. And particularly if you buy what we own it strokes our ego. That said I have a Rikon 347 and it works very well. Strange as it seems I was able to lug down the 4hp motor trying to cut 6” of cherry with a dull and gummed up 1” Trimaster blade. Lesson: get all the hp you can. One time I turned off the BS and came back a minute plus later and carelessly did not notice the blade was still moving, slowly and quietly, almost cut myself. Lesson: get one with a brake and a micro switch, then remember to use it every time. I would not own a big BS w/o a brake, too dangerous, particularly if someone else uses it. Best feature: can’t turn on motor unless the blade tension release is engaged. These are the day to day features that make a difference for me.

[James Jayko]

I've also got a Laguna 14/12 and I think its fantastic. I've resawed a lot on it with the Laguna Resaw King and have had good luck with it. I had a big Grizzly (GO513X2 I believe), and while I liked the power, I did have a few problems with it. It was in my hobbiest home shop...not a lot of use...and still killed the motor just outside of warranty. They 100% made it right at no cost (customer service was fantastic), but that wasn't very confidence inspiring. Also, the resaw fence was slightly out of square so I struggled to resaw on it. Also my first decent band saw so like anything, YMMV.

I've used the 3HP Laguna 14BX quite a bit as well and it works very well with a good blade and setup. Not sure if you're looking to step up the size or not, but for $2000 it seems pretty good.

[andy bessette]

...I'm leaning towards the Grizzly...

I would avoid all 3rd-tier imports and watch for a quality machine in excellent condition. Bought my 20" Agazzani for ~$1700, like new on mobile base.

[James Jayko]

I would avoid all 3rd-tier imports and watch for a quality machine in excellent condition.

Aren't 80% of bandsaws (Grizzly included) all made in the same factories in Taiwan anyway at this point?

[Joel Gelman]

Very lucky finding a like new 20 inch Agazzani for $1,700 or at all. My first bandsaw was a 14 inch Delta. Then I got a 20 inch Agazzani from Jesse at Eagle tools. That was quite a long time ago. Then, I added the Laguna 24/24 to use for resawing and ripping. I use a Co-Matic Power Feeder. That Laguna is pretty much dedicated to ripping and resawing, and is used very often for ripping. I do not use my table saw to rip lumber. I think the Bandsaw with feeder is way way better as do people who use the table saw then visit my shop. No kickback, less wood removed. no binding. No issue of struggling to keep a long piece against a fence etc. With the feeder, you actually do not have as much need for infeed or outfeed tables. You set the distance easily, turn on and it feeds by itself. There are videos showing them in use. They can cost as much as a bandsaw, but ripping is something done very often in most shops. Of course it is great for resawing also. It is so fast. If you want 3 inch wide boards in quantity for rails and stiles, you do one edge on the jointer, then bandsaw with feeder to a hair over 3 inches, then take the remaining board and jointer the edge which is one shallow pass, then rip ... then take all of your boards to the planer to get exactly 3 inches. I am a hobby guy and a pro friend whose shop was down came over last weekend with a truck full of lumber to make doors for a large kitchen. He was impressed by how nicely and quickly the work could be done without the table saw.

Of course it all comes down to how you use the bandsaw.

[Aaron Inami]

Aren't 80% of bandsaws (Grizzly included) all made in the same factories in Taiwan anyway at this point?

That's very interesting. I had to examine several Grizzly pieces to determine the country of origin is indeed Taiwan. However, that in itself, is not completely indicative of the quality of the machine. You can actually have some pretty good stuff manufactured in China and some crap stuff manufactured in China. It all depends how you decide to manage the China company and what tolerances/costs you can accept.

A good example here is all the Grizzly edge sanders. Even though they are made in Taiwan, the design of the sanding platen is just sheet metal with one or two brackets. There have been many people getting bent platens on newly shipped sanders which defeats the accuracy of this sander. The comparison is the Baleigh and Felder Hammer sanders which use a 1/2" thick piece of steel with significant steel back framing. The Baleigh is cheaper than the Grizzly equivalent and doesn't have as many features (such as geared hand-wheel for raising/lowering table), but I would prefer using the Baleigh because of the solid platen design.

Jame's experience with an out-of-square fence on his Grizzly is another example of Grizzly compromise. Though, if you are able to catch these problems early enough, Grizzly has a history of sending out new parts (if within a 90 day period or something) with no issue or resistance at all. Their pattern is to throw replacement parts out like crazy on anything that is broken/bent upon delivery. Their sales price and costs account for this pattern. You might have to wait a while for them to get the part in stock from overseas, but they will support replacement parts.

[James Jayko]

That's very interesting. I had to examine several Grizzly pieces to determine the country of origin is indeed Taiwan. However, that in itself, is not completely indicative of the quality of the machine. You can actually have some pretty good stuff manufactured in China and some crap stuff manufactured in China. It all depends how you decide to manage the China company and what tolerances/costs you can accept.

Oh, yeah. My point was not that "made in China is junk," some stuff is fantastic, some is literally unusable. My point was that brand name isn't always helpful in this situation; given that a large proportion of these tools are literally THE SAME as their competition (IE I would bet money that the JWBS14 from Jet is 95%+ the same saw as the Laguna 14/12), features and price can matter more than point of origin in this case. Because the point of origin is the same. Like, literally the same factory floor.

[Patrick Kane]

Just putting my vote out there for used three phase, in good running condition which could be got for the same money.

Even the cheapo VFD's have internal breaking (i.e not needing resistor which sucks power via kinetic energy)
which in my opinion makes the nicest brake of all, as you can easily program it to stop whenever you want. (within reason on the cheapo's, I think I've got my 24" set to "coast" stop at 7 sec, which takes about 15 seconds, or something like that.

.Wire as many cheap switches as you like, wherever you wish, not complicated whatsoever.
I put one under the table aswell, so could use handsfree with my hip.
Not used a foot brake, but I imagine it might be a PITA having to use your foot.

To clarify though, my machine has a large table, and not like the compact far eastern machines which small tables, which I wouldn't want to go back to after using mine...
and likely wouldn't suggest using my hip either, as it would put one so close to the blade!
Plus the fact not much support for cutting tenons for example.

I agree with this statement. Big bandsaws are one of the better deals on the used market. They can be a PITA to move, and requiring 10'+ ceilings removes competition from most hobbyists. This isnt a screaming deal, but a machine like this would save the OP $1,000+/- and be a bigger/better saw than the proposed 21" import.

36" Bandsaw J.A. Faye & Egan 5hp direct drive Reduced : WOODWEB's Machinery Exchange (https://woodweb.com/exchanges/machinery/posts/539502.html)

For the money, i would watch for a 24-36" scm like Tom's. The last two years have been unusual, but those saws routinely sold for $1,000 or less. If you dont mind moving the saw, they offer significant savings over a new euro machine.

[Tom M King]

They're easy to move.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I vote used 20” + especially with that much ceiling height.

This is my ‘86 model Steton SN500 (Italian, acm made) It weighs about 600#, ~80” tall, 13” resaw, easily tightens and runs a 1” carbide blade, has ceramic guides and is about to have a Laguna Driftmaster fence. I paid $750 for this saw in 2018. Kids’ artwork was extra.

I cannot imagine paying ~$3k (+) for new Chiawanese when you can get used Euro light industrial for 50-75 % of the same amount, even today.

[Joel Gelman]

As for the 36 inch Faye and Egan, I think these vintage saws are amazing. I am getting a Yates y-30 and that is the only reason I am selling my Laguna 24/24. No room for both. However, I would not get the Faye and Egan. I am no expert in bandsaw restoration. I am not sure even how to properly look for details on a saw like that to identify pitfalls. Imagine getting that beast and then having a problem unless you are really good at vintage machine restoration. For my saw, I am having Ben Rock who is well known on the OWWM forum restore it.

http://sauerandsteiner.blogspot.com/2011/12/magnificent.html

This link is for that same model saw restored by Ben for Konrad Sauer. Interesting a guy with Konrad's talents with wood and metal having someone like Ben restore the bandsaw, and certainly I would have less talent. I will get a saw that should run like new or better, but not anywhere near the price of what you see on that link for the Faye and Egan. I think to get vintage, you have to really know how to tell what you are getting ... unless you get lucky.

Just my 0.02.

[ChrisA Edwards]

If power and resaw height are you primary objectives you should consider the Grizzly G0636X. 17" saw with 5 HP motor
John

I decided to go with this model, many thanks all.

[Alan Lightstone]

You'll enjoy the extra power, table size, and height. Good luck with it.

[Bill Dufour]

I would not buy a used direct drive saw like that Fay and Egin. That said a bandsaw seldom wears out more then the bearings. Unless it is dropped and breaks the table. So. quality used machine is fine. I would only buy one with ball bearings since I can not really repour babbitt. So say 1925 or newer.
I am not aware of any real improvements to bandsaw design in the last 150 years except improved blade guides.
BilL D

[dirk martin]

I own both the Grizzly 24" bandsaw, and the Minimax 24" bandsaw.
I do a lot of resawing of hardwoods on both.

If I had to do over again, I would not have spent the money on the Minimax. I had a fair amount of switch issues, with it. I've had no issues with the Grizzly.....and it's a much better price. Even today, if I push the Minimax too hard, it will cut out. I can slow the Grizzly down (when resawing 10" maple), but I've never had it cut out.

Another thing that I've learned to consider, is the availablity of parts. Grizzly has a nice website for parts, should you ever need them. Very nice blow-up diagrams that are very easy to drill down into, and most all parts are easily available. When my Laguna dust collector switch went out, the first thing they told me was "sorry...parts aren't available for that model"....and they left me hanging.

[Michael Drew]

Here's a good video about what this guy noticed on his Laguna 18|BX (which is the same Chinese manufactured series as your 14|12):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-eMofAMyaSI

Are you sure that Laguna is made in China? I do not see this on my 18BX, or JX8II jointer I just got. I have not used either much, yet, but both machines are put together nicely. I am happy with both. Time will tell if I screwed up buying Laguna, but I would put them on the same tier as my Austrian built Hammer machine. At least from a build quality perspective.

I put a 1" blade on the bandsaw and experimented a bit ripping some 8" wide cherry. It cuts that without so much as a whimper.

[Dave Roock]

Are you sure that Laguna is made in China? I do not see this on my 18BX, or JX8II jointer I just got. I have not used either much, yet, but both machines are put together nicely. I am happy with both. Time will tell if I screwed up buying Laguna, but I would put them on the same tier as my Austrian built Hammer machine. At least from a build quality perspective.

I put a 1" blade on the bandsaw and experimented a bit ripping some 8" wide cherry. It cuts that without so much as a whimper.

Hello, When you search the Laguna website, they will have questions listed below each item. Example would be your 18bx which says : " The 18|BX Bandsaw is manufactured at an ISO-9001 certified facility in Taiwan."

[Aaron Inami]

Hello, When you search the Laguna website, they will have questions listed below each item. Example would be your 18bx which says : " The 18|BX Bandsaw is manufactured at an ISO-9001 certified facility in Taiwan."

Sorry,that was my assumption. The point I was trying to get across was the overall design/quality of the elements in the Laguna "Classic" line. They are the same between Chris's 14|12 and the 18|BX referenced in the video. They are Asian made, as opposed to the Laguna LT line which are Italian made and are significantly more expensive per equivalent machine.

[ChrisA Edwards]

The Grizzly G0636X 17", 5HP saw arrived... It would have been about 5 days from date of order, but the original delivery attempt could not get it off the truck because the Grizzly pallet was too narrow for the pallet jack. So the delivery company put it on another pallet and delivered it.


https://youtu.be/pIXg3c_ZI4s

[John C Bush]

I've had the Griz 531B for over ten years and and it is a great value. I had been looking for one of those sexy Italians with big wheels for quite a while and didn't have the
good luck that others had so I drove to Bellingham and got the Griz. Very solid and powerful saw. I keep a 1" Lenox WM CT on it and only use it for resaw. Just sold my classic Inca 10"
BS and got the Griz 17" for bowl blanks and narrow blade curve cuts. I haven't used any of the big name saws for comparison but can;t imagine what they can do better than the 531B.
Max resaw heighth is 14 1/4" and there have been a few times I could have use more heighth but has been a good performer for me. No mechanical issues other than replacing the guide bearings . I'm confident you would be happy with it. Good luck.

[John TenEyck]

Well done, Chris. Look forward to your review of the saw after you've had a chance to cut some wood with it.

Is that a OneFinity? Sure looks like the Journeyman, same as I have.

John

[ChrisA Edwards]

Yes, it's a Journeyman. I think we got them a couple of weeks apart.

I did have a bit of an issue squaring the table to the blade. It seemed there was less than about 3/32" of movement in the table with all the table trunnion cap screws loose. I also had to loosen two screws, under the table, that form part of the linkage for the table tilt mechanism. It's very close now, but I think I may have to fine tune the blade on the wheels as I'm out of adjustment at the table. I did call Grizzly, got through to their tech, but the person I spoke to didn't really seem to understand.

It did not come with cable to plug it in, so that's this mornings project and my dust fittings arrive tomorrow.

[John TenEyck]

Thought so. I'm enjoying my 1F and hope you are, too.

I had no trouble getting the table square with the blade. There was plenty of movement available with all the cap screws loose. Grizzly has been making this BS for well over a decade, there can't be any unresolved issues with it. I would not compromise on the blade being centered on the upper wheel. Doing so is an unacceptable solution to the underlying problem. I'd take another look at the table, Chris. How are you judging proper alignment, with a straight edge on the side of the blade? If so, make sure it's not being deflected by the teeth. A large magnet or a shim of wood and a small clamp to hold the straight edge to the blade eliminates the teeth causing a problem and holds the straight edge to the blade so your hands are free to measure and observe alignment. If the tilt screws are causing any limitation, I'd remove them temporarily and see if that allows you to square the table. If it's still not perfect, then try removing one of the trunnion screws at a time and see if that identifies where the problem is.

Good luck.

John

[ChrisA Edwards]

I'm using the Imaging Bandsaw Companion and the Carter (thingy). Both have recess forth kerf and magnets to hold them on the blade.

Think I'm just about there.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/IgagingBandsawCompanion.jpg

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/i452/cedwards874/IgagingBandsawCompanion2.jpg

[Richard Verwoest]

Shouldn't you be squaring the mitre slot/table to the blade first? Then adjusting the fence to the blade and/or mitre slot?

Richard

[ChrisA Edwards]

If I square the mitre fence to the blade, I cannot adjust the miter slot as that's fixed in the table.

So I did the miter slot to the fence and then tried to compensate the blade angle to the fence by adjusting the table.

[Tom Trees]

If in doubt...mark it out! :)
496123496124

Sorry, cgetting eager to test.
Still haven't found what I seen quite recently on youtube (searched yesterday)
It's the use of "123" blocks placed against the fence to aid sight, as a fence will obscure vision when sighting down with your nice blue milled chunk of ali.
Perhaps someone can recall, because seeing is believing, having done a similar test with plumblines.
This pictures the best I can do for ya.
496125

Good luck with the new machine
Tom

[John TenEyck]

Chris, the first photo suggests your fence is not parallel with the miter slot, assuming the blade slot is. It looks like the fence is further away at the front of the table. If so, you may be a lot closer to perfect than you think.

Measure from your blue bar to the miter slot. How do those numbers compare? Or attach a piece of wood to your miter gage and adjust it to just touch the blue bar at one end, then check it at the other end.

John

[ChrisA Edwards]

I measured from each end of the Igaging companion, while it was on the blade, to the miter slot. As well as my old eye can see, it appeared spot on in mm.

Did a couple of test cuts on some 4" x 4" x 2', no drift and the end thickness was within 0.1mm.

Very happy so far, I think I have it dialed in.

[John TenEyck]

Glad to see you got it squared, Chris. Hopefully, everything else was good to go. Throw away the factory blade. Put a good blade on it and have fun. My experience with the on-board blade tension indicator shows it applies about 25 ksi (measured) at the 1" indicator mark for my 1" Woodmaster CT blade.

John