Spring miter clamps

[Ray Newman]

Colleagues: am contemplating a few box projects involving miters, reinforced with splines or dovetail inserts, as well as those with non-reinforced corners.

I really do not enjoy clamping up miters. Was looking at my clamp collection and thought about spring clamps like those from Collins -- https://collinstool.com/tools/miter-clamps/

Has anyone utilized such clamps and how did they work out?

[Frederick Skelly]

I have a good quality set of spring clamps like that - cant recall if they are the same brand but mine came with the pliers. I like them alot. The thing to be aware of is that they will leave a small divot where the pointed tips grab the joint. You can fill the divot pretty easily, but that may not suit your taste - depends on the project.

[Jim Koepke]

Fears of these leaving marks has kept me from using them.

An easier and cheaper way might be to make corner blocks that are tightened with a rope.

On four small square blocks of uniform size drill a 1/2" hole in the center. Then cut from the center of two adjacent sides toward the center. The cuts should be a degree or two less than 90º. The corner opposite of the opening can be cut off (rounded is best) and use a rat tail file to create a horizontal channel. Tie a cord around this and use a piece of scrap to twist the rope tight, also known as a Spanish windlass. (like the method of tightening the blade on a bow saw)

Something like this was done for building an octagon bird house.

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Since this was an octagon and all long grain blocks weren't needed. The rope was pulled tight using a trucker's hitch.

jtk

[Cameron Wood]

I have used them for years, mostly for interior trim- just the thing for miter returns on base and window aprons.

Recently got a knock off set with the pliers- much easier to place and remove!

Maybe not for your finest work but the marks left by the points are subtle, especially in harder wood.

[Jim Koepke]

This is from an old tread about tying a trucker's hitch.

My brother is much quicker at this than me. Here is a quick shot of how it is done.

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To the right the line is secured on a cleat/pin/hook. The line goes around a hook or cleat. The slack is passed over the bight (line between the cleats) and a loop in the bight comes under then over the slack. Above where the slack rests on the bight a turn is created. (a loop is when the line doesn't cross itself a turn is a loop made with the line crossing itself.)

The loop is passed through the turn:

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Pull the slack:

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This will enable the line to be pulled tighter than if the line were to be pulled against a cleat alone.

jtk

[Ray Newman]

Frederick Skelley: thanks for the response. Some of the Collins spring clamp "kits" with pliers.

As for the divots, I thought that after the work is cut to finished size, I would mark the spline or dovetail locations. Then glue it all up and apply the spring clamps to where the dovetails or splines were marked and cut out.

[Mel Fulks]

They work fine ,but leave holes. Possible that just steaming the wood with hot clothes iron will pop them up. Another way is to glue a
piece of wood at each corner, with cardboard between them. Put the spring clamps on the corners. When glue is dry use pliers to pop
off the blocks and scrape off paper and glue , then sand off any remaining paper.

[Lee Schierer]

I've used for mitered corners. You can use painters tape for adequate pressure, but if you want more pressure on the joints add a band or two of glass reinforced packing tape (https://www.tapesolutions.saint-gobain.com/na/products/adhesive-tapes/glass/filament#). It allows you to apply lots of pressure and it leaves behind no residue or marks if removed within 24 hours.
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I've also used these band clamps from Rocklers (https://www.rockler.com/rockler-1-x-15-band-clamp) to clamp multi-sided projects for glue up. They work quite well.
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[Tom M King]

I use them on outside corners of crown molding that's going to be painted. That's the only use they get here, but are good for that. It's such a simple tool. There is no reason to buy any but the cheapest.

[Jack Frederick]

I’ve had a set of Ulima’s, clamps and pliers, for a long long time. When they get used they do mark the wood

[Derek Cohen]

I agree with Lee. Packing tape (in my case) is my go-to.

Lay down the parts face-down and tightly aligned.

https://i.postimg.cc/HdjGyBkJ/8.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Cover with tape, then turn the lot over and fold up …

https://i.postimg.cc/D7btC0sn/9.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Aaron Rosenthal]

Like many, I used them for trim during renovations (remodling to you south of the 49th parallel) and work great. I got my set and added clamps when needed from Lee Valley.
I steam, fill or whatever, the holes closed.

[Anthony Albano]

i bought extra and use them all the time. holes are easy to fill and hide

[Ray Newman]

Gents: thanks for telling of your experiences. I will try a roll of glass reinforced packing tape as the so-called packing tape I tried once before was not the best quality.

[glenn bradley]

The tape works well if it is a good tape. I have even used a good quality painters tape with success. Since you mention boxes in particular I will say that the threaded rod versions of "miter clamps" work well when stacked.

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[Tom M King]

I used the spring clamps just a little while ago today. I was fixing a cracked plastic lounge chair with DP100, and had an odd place that no clamps would grab. That's the second use I've ever had for them, but was glad I had them today. A neighbor had left these for trash pickup, but I didn't let the trash guys get them. One had some cracks in it where the armrests meet the seat, but they were easy to fix with the help of the spring clamps. Pam and her Sister had been using them like they were, but fixed now. They aren't cheap ones if you were to spend money for them.