Design ideas for a 13' long cabinet top?

[Minh Tran]

I'm working out the construction design for the carcass of this 13' long cabinet.

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I would like the top to have a "one-piece" look (which means not necessarily a single 13' piece of wood but the aesthetic design of the top is cohesive e.g., butt-joint is worst-case.

Cabinets will either have drawers (which means more vertical sections of cabinets) or magnetic fronts (less sections/wider fronts) or both (i.e., for cabinet fronts that'll be near a corner). I haven't figured it out yet -- the final look, my storage requirements affect the choice of fastener.

Continuous grain would be ideal but this would be hard to achieve (lumberyards do sell 16' lumber but bringing it upstairs and around a corner would be impossible).

I have worked out some construction details, since they're kind of relevant:
0. Carcass will be hung on french cleats, made out of 3/4" hardwood plywood (poplar) and painted.
1. The top will be a separate piece, connected to the cabinet carcass' top with threaded inserts [1]. This has several benefits: it reduces risk (I don't want to have to rebuild the cabinets if I mess up the top), multiple points of leveling adjustment, allows mistakes when scribing the top to the wall (i.e., just replace the top).
2. To allow shims for plumbing and a fillet strip to cover the joint, the ends will be installed like so:
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3. The tapered bookshelf carcass (taper is necessary because the wall isn't that wide near the door) ... will be tricky. Still thinking about how to build it with a single top ... I think I'll just leave it open and let the long top cover it.

[1] https://www.ezlok.com/ezhex-insert-801032-10

[Patrick McCarthy]

if you go with single length, can it enter via a window?

[Paul F Franklin]

Would you consider a raised section in the middle (or at both ends) that might add some visual interest and allow you to make the top in 3 sections?

[Brian Tymchak]

You could make it like a wood floor, with pieces of varying lengths, maybe 3" in width, attached to a base, such that the joints stagger. Then it could made in 2 pieces that fit together like a puzzle hiding the joint. Heck, you could even use flooring. You could use beveled edge flooring to add a bit of variation in the surface.

[Minh Tran]

if you go with single length, can it enter via a window?

That's a great idea. This room is on the second floor. The window is ~20 ft high. A bit inconvenient but it's possible if the top is light (i.e., 3/4 plywood). Lash onto it with some rope and pull it up a ladder.

[Lee Schierer]

Finding plywood or lumber 13 feet long is going to be a challenge. I don't know many places where you could purchase boards of that length without a splice.

[Minh Tran]

You could make it like a wood floor, with pieces of varying lengths, maybe 3" in width, attached to a base, such that the joints stagger. Then it could made in 2 pieces that fit together like a puzzle hiding the joint. Heck, you could even use flooring. You could use beveled edge flooring to add a bit of variation in the surface.

Nice idea! Should be possible to put them back-to-back or sandwich them over plywood to hide the butt joints.

I really like this technique - have an inner core of plywood (1/4" or 1/2") that is connected with some fasteners (dominos + glue) and veneer the top to hide the seams (1/4" hardwood, or veneer rolls, or flooring strips).

[Minh Tran]

I'd considered making it a separate section (lowered, to make it look like shelf space).

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I think it's a nice look but it does make construction less streamlined. It's also a little less versatile if you were to move the entire thing somewhere else. The design is still in the cards.

[Jim Becker]

Finding plywood or lumber 13 feet long is going to be a challenge. I don't know many places where you could purchase boards of that length without a splice.

True. I did a walnut window sill for a friend a few years ago and did have to do a splice to get it to the required 14'+ to span the bank of windows it was being installed under. It came in through the window (it was first floor fortunately) but still was difficult to position because of a wood stove smack in the middle of the run. Fortunately, there was a high ceiling. I believe I did a scarf joint, but don't recall exactly. Now this wasn't a cabinet top like the OP is asking about. If it can be finished in place and something can be assembled in strips like a butcher block, it would be possible to create an assembly that interlocked, but would look like one big, long counter once joined and finished in place.