Minh Tran
02-02-2023, 5:52 PM
I'm working out the construction design for the carcass of this 13' long cabinet.
494685494686
I would like the top to have a "one-piece" look (which means not necessarily a single 13' piece of wood but the aesthetic design of the top is cohesive e.g., butt-joint is worst-case.
Cabinets will either have drawers (which means more vertical sections of cabinets) or magnetic fronts (less sections/wider fronts) or both (i.e., for cabinet fronts that'll be near a corner). I haven't figured it out yet -- the final look, my storage requirements affect the choice of fastener.
Continuous grain would be ideal but this would be hard to achieve (lumberyards do sell 16' lumber but bringing it upstairs and around a corner would be impossible).
I have worked out some construction details, since they're kind of relevant:
0. Carcass will be hung on french cleats, made out of 3/4" hardwood plywood (poplar) and painted.
1. The top will be a separate piece, connected to the cabinet carcass' top with threaded inserts [1]. This has several benefits: it reduces risk (I don't want to have to rebuild the cabinets if I mess up the top), multiple points of leveling adjustment, allows mistakes when scribing the top to the wall (i.e., just replace the top).
2. To allow shims for plumbing and a fillet strip to cover the joint, the ends will be installed like so:
494687
3. The tapered bookshelf carcass (taper is necessary because the wall isn't that wide near the door) ... will be tricky. Still thinking about how to build it with a single top ... I think I'll just leave it open and let the long top cover it.
[1] https://www.ezlok.com/ezhex-insert-801032-10
494685494686
I would like the top to have a "one-piece" look (which means not necessarily a single 13' piece of wood but the aesthetic design of the top is cohesive e.g., butt-joint is worst-case.
Cabinets will either have drawers (which means more vertical sections of cabinets) or magnetic fronts (less sections/wider fronts) or both (i.e., for cabinet fronts that'll be near a corner). I haven't figured it out yet -- the final look, my storage requirements affect the choice of fastener.
Continuous grain would be ideal but this would be hard to achieve (lumberyards do sell 16' lumber but bringing it upstairs and around a corner would be impossible).
I have worked out some construction details, since they're kind of relevant:
0. Carcass will be hung on french cleats, made out of 3/4" hardwood plywood (poplar) and painted.
1. The top will be a separate piece, connected to the cabinet carcass' top with threaded inserts [1]. This has several benefits: it reduces risk (I don't want to have to rebuild the cabinets if I mess up the top), multiple points of leveling adjustment, allows mistakes when scribing the top to the wall (i.e., just replace the top).
2. To allow shims for plumbing and a fillet strip to cover the joint, the ends will be installed like so:
494687
3. The tapered bookshelf carcass (taper is necessary because the wall isn't that wide near the door) ... will be tricky. Still thinking about how to build it with a single top ... I think I'll just leave it open and let the long top cover it.
[1] https://www.ezlok.com/ezhex-insert-801032-10