Finish suggestions over Danish oil

[Bill Bell]

I recently turned several hollow form pieces out of a log of spalted ambrosia maple. I experimented with different finishes - Waterlox, water-based lacquer - but for the last piece I decided to try Danish Oil (WATCO). As I turned these in end-grain orientation, the piece sucked up immense quantities of oil (the common comparison of wood grain structure to a bunch of straws is apt!) and I was left with a very dull looking piece (see picture, which actual looks a bit better than real life). So I'm thinking of putting some kind of top coat on that would give it a bit of glow - not shiny, but enough reflectivity to give it a little more life. Not sure what will work over the oil, however - beeswax, wipe-only poly, something else? Any suggestions appreciated. Thanks

[John Keeton]

Minwax Wipe on Poly - Satin. It will do fine over the danish oil if you have given it time to cure. Since the danish oil is deep in the wood it will take longer to cure. It may take a few coats of the poly, but you can build a nice hand rubbed look.

Beautiful wood and a nice piece, by the way!

[Richard Coers]

Lacquer also sticks well to danish oil.

[Dan Gaylin]

You also could just buff it out to increase the sheen using the Beals buffing system or similar. If you can easily remount on the lathe you could go even simpler and use eeeUltrashine or similar.

[John K Jordan]

You also could just buff it out to increase the sheen using the Beals buffing system or similar. If you can easily remount on the lathe you could go even simpler and use eeeUltrashine or similar.

That's what I usually do. It's not a quick process - after the initial soaking in "danish" oil and drying for a couple of days I apply 6 to 10 additional coats, let each sit for about 20 minutes then wipe off and let dry overnight. I let the final coat dry for several more days, just in case. Then buff and wax. The multiple coats leave a reasonably good protective film on the wood.

I'm not a big fan of mirror/plastic-like glossy finishes so I like the soft sheen this method puts on the wood.

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JKJ

[Edward Weber]

Danish oil consists of a small amount of oil, a small amount of poly and a lot of mineral spirits.
For putting finish over it after it's cured, poly would be the best.
Continuing to add additional coats of DO adds very little protection per coat, as the oil does not penetrate, the mineral spirits evaporate and the only thing left is a small amount of poly.

To each their own but DO is a penetrating type of finish, once the initial coating of is applied and absorbed, everything that comes after is by definition, is a top coat, since it can no longer penetrate. This is why they tell you to saturate the piece until it can take no more, you only get one chance.
So it only makes sense to use a top coat type of finish