Silicone Caulk Remover - Which is the best

[ChrisA Edwards]

I am replacing the shower door in our 5th Wheel RV. All the aluminum frame, for the old shower door, came out easily, but the beads of clear silicone are proving very difficult to remove. The shower is a molded fiber glass unit.

I bought some spray on caulk and silicone remover, from HD, it goes on like a gel, softens the silicone a little and lets me remove some of it, using a plastic scraper.

According to the directions, I should be able to spray this on, leave it for a couple of minutes and then wipe off the gel and silicone. I've tried repeating the application about 5 times, but it seems its reached a layer of silicone that is too tough for the remover.

Based upon the age of our RV, the silicone has been in place a couple of years.

So looking for suggestions, thanks

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I will have to look and make sure but I think 3M is the one I have had the best results with....

Humm, where did I put that caulk remover?

3M makes a good number of things right here in our town. That may be why this was at our local Ace Hardware. I have never seen it at the other stores.

494080

[Zachary Hoyt]

I've had good luck with a single edge razor blade in a holder, and have never tried a chemical method.

[Kris Cook]

I've had good luck with a single edge razor blade in a holder, and have never tried a chemical method.

Wasn't aware of any effective chemical methods. I was in the hot tub and swimming pools business years ago - maybe chemicals have improved but like Zack I always had the best luck with a razor blade. I am looking at a holder that holds a standard utility knife blade. Numbers are 28-593 (Stanley).

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I use a single edge razor blade holder and blade. I have had some luck with a woven nylon scrub pad too.

[Michael Schuch]

If you get the chemical to work please let us know and let us know what the chemical is.

Like every one else I have always used a razor blade when resealing an aquarium. After scraping I usually use acetone... on glass, I certainly would not use acetone on fiberglass!

For fiberglass you might use Novus plastic polish to remove the last traces of silicone before putting the new silicone down. Novus #3 should leave just a bit of roughness for the new siicone to get a good bite on.

[Lee Schierer]

Are you sure the "caulking" isn't DiCor sealant which comes in clear? DiCor is commonly used in RVs.

[Tom M King]

I bought some plastic razor blades with holders. The blades work pretty good without scratching, but the holders didn't last long. They will probably fit in regular razor blade holders, but I was able to finish what I had to do with them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095P6JHQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank I ordered a set of those plastic razor blades, didn't know such things existed.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Here is some data about the 3M.

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[Jim Braun]

When you are ready to reapply the silicone, I can recommend the Cramer FUGI caulk tools. I used them for the first time redoing our shower.
https://www.amazon.com/Cramer-CRA-40407-EN-Profiling/dp/B07NCZ2DQJ

There are similar cheaper versions but they are flimsy and not accurately molded


https://youtu.be/GbLj8l1_H04

[Tom M King]

And these for any caulking tubes after use. I have some different types that are years old, and still good with these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O994YRI?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_ypp_rep_k7_1_8&amp=&crid=19Z95RU60LMC&sprefix=caulking&th=1

They were well less than a buck a piece when I first bought some. I liked them so much I bought more.

[ChrisA Edwards]

Thank you all, got the Fugi caulk tools, ordering some of the caulk caps.

[Lee DeRaud]

I use wood chisels...pretty much all I use them for.
(Plus it make Neanderthals' heads explode. :) )

[Brian Elfert]

I had to to take apart a shower enclosure some years ago in a way it could be reused. It had silicone caulk on a lot of the metal. I tried the 3M silicone caulk remover and it did nothing. I know it was silicone caulk as I had installed the caulk. I ended up using a wire brush in a Dremel to remove the caulk because I didn’t care about saving the finish of the metal.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I did a test with the 3M yesterday on GE Clear silicone. It did a tiny bit more than nothing. It caused the feathered edge to peel and softened the bead enough to help it come away with a modest amount of scraping. A little residue left behind was soft and scrubbed away easily.

I will see if this Goo Gone is any better.

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[Dave Anderson NH]

Going back many years my memory says there are 3 different cure systems for RTV silicone caulk. The original one was acetoxy AKA vinegar cure it is readily identified by the smell. Next came alkoxy, and finally octoate.

[ChrisA Edwards]

I bought some plastic razor blades with holders. The blades work pretty good without scratching, but the holders didn't last long. They will probably fit in regular razor blade holders, but I was able to finish what I had to do with them.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B095P6JHQN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Used these, this morning, takes off about 90% of the silicone with ease without scratching the fiber glass top coat.

[Tom M King]

To make a neat looking finished bead, a lot of people seem to think you spread it out. It's best not to spread it out, but rather to take off the part that you don't want. I end up throwing away about half of what I put on with the gun sometimes.

[Frank Pratt]

I've used silicone 'removers' in the past and it's a frustrating experience. My understanding is that rather than dissolve the silicone, they break down the bond between the silicone and substrate. To be effective, you first gotta get as much off as you can before applying the remover and scrubbing away. It can take many repeat applications to get it all off.

This is one of the reasons I generally hate silicone, outside a few applications. Mostly there's always a better product to use.