Question about Radial Arm Saw

[Mark Gibney]

I got an old Craftsman RAS and I want to set it up for cross-cuts exclusively.
A lot of videos and online posts show the table made from two layers of 3/4" material. But I cannot find any explanation of why.

I'm guessing this is to allow the top layer to be discarded once it is ripped up from use?

Because I plan on only 90° cross-cuts is a negative rake tooth blade still the recommend?
I have some nice cross-cut blades but they are positive rake.

Thanks, Mark

[Holmes Anderson]

I've seen the table made from a single layer of MDF. The negative rake blade will reduce the tendency for the saw to suddenly move toward the operator with a lot of force as the blade engages the board. Try the blades you have and see how they perform. If you are only using it for 90 degree crosscuts then you can move the fence back and increase the cut capacity.

[Tom M King]

Which one is it? I have a 12" I bought new in 1974 that I still keep set up for 90 degree cuts only, and it cuts perfectly, but no one else uses it. Later models are lighter built. I don't care for negative rake blades. No real reason to build the top any way but the way you want it. Mine does have two layers of 3/4's, and the top layer does get changed when needed. The bottom layer is bolted to the saw frame.

[John TenEyck]

I have a ZCI in the top for my old Dewalt RAS. I don't bother to replace it anymore; I just fill the groove with Bondo when it gets worn. So I never replace the top. FWIW, my saw is MUCH safer with a negative hook blade on it. Try the blades you have, but don't hesitate to get a negative hook blade if they are too aggressive.

John

[Lee Schierer]

My Craftsman RAS has a single layer of particle board for the table. The fence is a separate piece of particle board as is the piece that goes behind the fence. Be sure to align the arm to be perpendicular to the fence. Once you have it set to 90 screw down the arm lock to keep it there.

[John K Jordan]

Mine came with an MDF top. First thing I did was tack a sacrificial layer of 1/4” plywood to the top with small brads, positioned so the blade could never hit them. I cut lots of angles, ripped etc and replaced the plywood as needed.

JKJ


I got an old Craftsman RAS and I want to set it up for cross-cuts exclusively.
A lot of videos and online posts show the table made from two layers of 3/4" material. But I cannot find any explanation of why.

I'm guessing this is to allow the top layer to be discarded once it is ripped up from use?

Because I plan on only 90° cross-cuts is a negative rake tooth blade still the recommend?
I have some nice cross-cut blades but they are positive rake.

Thanks, Mark

[Alan Schwabacher]

It is very nice if the top stays flat. The “Mr Sawdust” design uses two layers of sheet goods with steel strips on edge embedded half in each in between to keep it flat. Often there’s also a sacrificial surface on top.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

My old Craftsman had several tops before I acquired it as part of the severance from my boss in Concord NH in 1983. Since then it has had 3 other tops. The current top is solid oak and very satisfactory. It is one of the best gifts I have ever been given!

Craftsman radial arm saw part (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?296331-Craftsman-radial-arm-saw-part&p=3175441#post3175441)

[Richard Coers]

I always used 1 piece of 3/4" particle board and 1 layer of 1/4" luan as the sacrificial layer.

[Mark Gibney]

Well thanks everyone, so basically do what works best and there is plenty of leeway.
Maurice, I see from your previous post you like a thin kerf blade, which I have read can be recommended for saws with small 1/2 hp motors like mine, so I'll keep that in mind.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I still need to get a crosscut, non climbing blade. It will most likely be a Freud Diablo from Home Depot. They do an excellent job for me, as well as being affordable and convenient.

[andy bessette]

My RAS is an old Craftsman that works excellently for 90 degree crosscuts. The table I cut down from an old solid core door.

https://i.postimg.cc/vZtbK94t/IMG-1297.jpg (https://postimg.cc/75hFG5M5)

[Myk Rian]

I built a Mr Sawdust table for my Delta RAS. Heavy, and doesn't warp. 1/4" hardboard top.

[Jim Allen]

My Craftsman RAS has an MDF table, I only use it for 90° cuts and I use negative hook 80 tooth blade, much less repair than on the back side of the cut than a positive hook blade.

[Michael Schuch]

I have been using Freud Ultimate cut off blades (which have a positive rake) on my radial arm saws for 30 years and have never had a problem. I think my 7.5hhp RAS has too much power and weight to ever catch on a board and try to climb over it though. With a less ridged Craftsman RAS I would be more worried about using a negative rake blade. I think that the lighter duty RAS's like Craftsman is where the negative rake recommendation came from.

For good results and accurate cuts you really want your RAS table top very flat and your saw dialed in very well. My RAS table is a scratch and dent solid core door with a 1/2" MDF sacrificial top on it. Blemished solid core doors are REALLY cheap because they are pretty useless for their intended purpose.

[Warren Lake]

the weight makes a huge difference and more rigid, a light radial will almost flex to start to climb. At the moment I want no more from one that a rough cross cut tool to not use a sliding compound saw and not have to use the worm drive.

[Michael Schuch]

the weight makes a huge difference and more rigid, a light radial will almost flex to start to climb. At the moment I want no more from one that a rough cross cut tool to not use a sliding compound saw and not have to use the worm drive.

This has been my experience also. The first RAS I worked on was my fathers Delta 10" turret arm which I learned woodworking on growing up. My first stationary tool was a used Craftsman RAS that would self feed considerably before I learned how to align it properly. I have a huge Redstar 16" RAS now and I am now a little intimidated by the light weight Delta 10" RAS that I grew up learning on (it is still at my mothers house and I still use it when helping her with projects). A Craftsman RAS is considerably less ridged than a Delta 10" RAS.

I would stick with a negative hook angle for a Craftsman RAS... but that is just me. If your Craftsman is well aligned and you are used to restraining the carriage progress as much as pulling the carriage through the cut I believe you should be fine with a positive hook. I would never give a rookie a positive hook blade on a Craftsman RAS though.

I have used my 16" Redstar RAS for finish crosscuts, miters, compound miters and dados for the past 25 years that I have owned the saw.