Milwaukee M18 Sawzall?

[Carroll Courtney]

Guys I’m in market for the M18 Sawzall, I was wondering if anyone has any experience with this saw? Since started on my retirement build I already need to make some framing adjustment and this saw I believe will come in handy. My framing is put together with GRK screws but I need to cut few of those screws to move some studs. So was wondering about this Sawzall for that purpose and looking for recommendations on what blade to cut those screws between bottom plate and stud? Thanks for any guidance, yes I have other M18 tools.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I don't have one but I see it has a 1 1/8 inch stroke. I find a 1 1/8 stroke too long for plunge cuts and tight spots. I have a classic old school 3/4 inch stroke for remodeling and a super Sawzall (1 1/8) for cutting out in the open. both are corded.

[Edward Weber]

I was going to suggest the Milwaukee 6514-27 18-Volt Hatchet, but it looks like they don't make it anymore.

Now they use the name "hatchet" for a small pruning saw.
It's a shame, I really like the moveable handle feature and dual position battery.

[David Publicover]

Hi Carroll,
I have a M18 Reciprocating saw and used it this summer during the remodel of our house. My contractor used the same model but his partner was a Dewalt guy. Both brands were used extensively with great results. Getting the right blade is key for success.
Have fun,
David

[Jack Frederick]

I don’t have the M18, but do have the M10 sawzall. It is a great tool. For the work you are describing the more compact M10 might just be the bees knees. I have used it in quite a bit of destruction and the compact format is excellent.

[Jim Becker]

If you do not expect to use this tool a lot into the future, you may want to consider a less expensive saw with a tail or even something off-brand/house-brand battery operated that you can unload when you are done your building project. Just because you have M18 in your arsenal doesn't limit you to that format. It also sounds like it may be an aggressive saw for the work you want to do based on other commentary already posted.

[Tom M King]

No need to buy an expensive blade for cutting nails. I had to cut a bunch raising a roof on a small building, cutting the nails holding the two top plates together. I tried several different types, including carbide tipped, but couldn't tell much difference. I think I ended up using Irwins the most because I caught them on a good sale.

[Edward Weber]

For blades, I like the Diablo
https://www.diablotools.com/explore/recip-blades/nail-embedded-wood

[Warren Lake]

axe

Hired a carpenter years ago we cut my roof open, he cut straight down through shingles, nails and the 2 x 6's, first time seeing that. Then put a new hip and part of the ridge board in, 2 x 10 for the hip. House was so out of whack from last moron he had a hard time to figure out where to end so said leave it oversize and pulled a string and cut it the next day.

I have some number over 10 axe blades think we used 9" but maybe it was 12' either one the thing was a beast. Ive cut trees down with them. I resharpen and re use them. Some are the past, some are nanny state, they are harder to sharpen. Whats next a lid on my coffee and I have to phone in before i have a sip?

They cut the nails fine, not sure if GRK are harder. They are good screws.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have no experience with Milwaukee cordless tools, but my probably 40 year old Super Sawzall is great and only cost $50 or less. I find plunge cuts are pretty easy with it, using 6" blades or shorter. Precision is not great. Screws are a lot harder on the blades than nails in my experience. I would get a metal cutting hacksaw type blade and try that. They are not the fastest at getting through the wood but once you hit the screw they will cut through it faster and with a lot less shaking of the operator.

[Ben Ellenberger]

I have a friend who says she wants to be buried with hers. She really likes it!

[Warren Lake]

broke mine after 25 plus years, not had time to see what failed Carpenter gave me his broken one as well. Not negative on either. they are nicely balanced tools and work great. Mine was just used hard for too long. I used it for stumping a number of times long blades digging cutting large roots. Still have have two serious ones to get out, cant use the chainsaw cause of dirt but usually dig and wash dig and wash but not always get at all depending on where the roots go. Trashed the chainsaw once plunging into a stump only to find out no roots below they all went sideways.

I havent tried a battery one and find it hard to believe they could keep up, when you see the ads or you tubes on the battery worm drives they make pretty big claims.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I run a 10 amp DeWalt corded saw - but - I swear by Milwaukee "Demolition Blades".

I use that blade 99% of the time. The only time I use a more aggressive tooth style is for trimming trees/hedges.

I bought the DeWalt because it has the 4 position head that makes flush cutting studs at the plate more comfortable. I had been using a Bosch 13 amp.


when you see the ads or you tubes on the battery worm drives they make pretty big claims.LiIon battery tech and brushless motors bring a whole new world of power to the dinner plate for cordless tools.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I cringed when reading "cutting GRK screws", that's like cutting dollar bills up! We are hard on sawzalls, have found the big Dewalt holds up better than the Milwaukee. The Milwaukee service is easy to deal with though. The Milwaukee tends to have blade latch and rod problems. The rod just breaks completely off, or the blade won't stay in anymore. Never had a problem with the warranty, but the Dewalt just hold up better. The dewalt needs a rafter hook though.

[Tom M King]

The all time best was the Porter Cable/Rockwell. It had two functions selectable with a lever. One with an orbit for cutting wood, and one without for cutting metal. I have a Rockwell that I bought new that still works. The orbital action cuts wood at least 5 times faster than any one that doesn't orbit because it clears the sawdust.

For a cordless one, I bought a Makita because I was already into their battery system with other tools. I have no complaints with it, and blade changing is really easy, tooless.

[Tom M King]

Here's the way I raised that roof on the 12 x 12 building. Oak wedges to lift enough to get the Sawz blade between the plates. It was about the most aggravating Sawzall job ever. The nails were old 20 penny framing nails. Used a bunch of blades.

It's a little bathroom house on our point that was there before we came. The building has a wide overhang over the doors on the sloping sides of the roof, and had only about 6' 4" of headroom clearance. We're going to rent it for weddings, so I completely redid the bathroom house, starting with raising the roof to get 6'9" of headroom clearance.

I added three 2x4's between the plates, and bolted them all together.

[Michael Drew]

Sometimes, a Sawzall is the only tool that'll get the job done. When I worked as a framer, I used one daily. I still have one, but it rarely sees daylight anymore. Mine is probably 20 years old and built like a tank. If I were to buy one today, I'd stick with the same brand (Milwaukee), but would definitely go cordless. I have several Milwaukee M18 tools and like that platform, but keep in mind that the batteries are expensive as hell. And the recip saws, circle saws, and bandsaws perform a lot better with the larger, and also most expensive batteries.

[Carroll Courtney]

Thanks guys for all the input, I am setup with most Milwaukee M18 tools but now need the Sawzall but just wanted to make sure its not a lemon. I hate to say this but I do need to cut some GRK's at the bottom plate, yep money down drain thanks to my errors.

[Tom M King]

Use a metal cutting blade

[Ronald Blue]

I have an M18 but it's not seen to much use. I bought it refurbished from a reseller on eBay. I just looked and it was $84.99. For intermittent cutting cordless is great. For big jobs that are going to be length cuts corded is the only way to go. Biggest job I ever tackled was cutting a 4" solid steel shaft in a locomotive crane. Definitely not a job for a cordless Sawzall.

[Darrell Bade]

I have an M18 Fuel. Like it alot.

[Dan Gaylin]

I can’t speak to the relative sturdiness of the Dewalt versus the Milwaukee as an earlier post did, but I did get rid of my Dewalt in favor of the Milwaukee M18 fuel — I have batteries and tools from both brands. The reason? The Milwaukee absorbs a lot more vibration than the Dewalt. The Dewalt rattled the hell out of my hands, wrists, and arms. The Milwaukee much less so. I really like and think it is a good tool. But I am not using it all the time.

[Dan Rude]

I picked up the M18 FUEL™ SAWZALL® Reciprocating Saw w/ ONE-KEY™2721-20 for a great price on clearence. It is a great saw, vibration is low and better than my older corded one. I have not used the one-Key, other than to turn it on once. I have used it for metal angle iron, branch trimming and demolition. I will grab it over a corded one these days. I am just a light user though, but like the portability of it with no tail. Dan

[Kris Cook]

I have a corded Milwaukee Super Sawzall, an M18 Sawzall and a M18 Hackzall. I haven't used the corded one since I got the battery one. I used the Battery Sawzall when I was framing my building quite a bit. Our mechanic on my current project had a M18 Hackzall. I bought one and haven't used the Sawzall since. It may not give you the leverage you need for heavy demo work but for cutting out windows (sheathing and drywall) cutting pipe etc. it is a wonderful tool. Weighs much less and easy to use one-handed.

I use the Milwaukee bi-metal blades when cutting through nails and such.

[Jason Roehl]

The all time best was the Porter Cable/Rockwell. It had two functions selectable with a lever. One with an orbit for cutting wood, and one without for cutting metal. I have a Rockwell that I bought new that still works. The orbital action cuts wood at least 5 times faster than any one that doesn't orbit because it clears the sawdust.

For a cordless one, I bought a Makita because I was already into their battery system with other tools. I have no complaints with it, and blade changing is really easy, tooless.

I have a corded Milwaukee that has the orbital function. Or I should say, “had.” It quite working after not a lot of use a number of years ago. I’ve probably had the saw about 15 years or so. At work, I have the M18 cordless. I don’t use it a lot, but it’s done what I’ve asked of it. The 5 Ah batteries give quite a bit of run time—I don’t think I’ve had to use the saw long enough to burn through a battery, so I couldn’t say how long it lasts.

[Mike Kees]

All my reciprocating saws are Milwaukee Sawzalls. I have 3 corded ones, and the original M18 (not Fuel). I want to get the fuel version but this one will not die. I have used it as a full time carpenter with a crew since 2012. Just keeps on ticking. I also have two of the original three batteries still in service from that 2012 purchase. If it ever dies the replacement will be the M18 Fuel version.