Pin Nailers

[Patty Hann]

Can someone explain to me the difference(s) between these two 23ga pin nailers?
I read the specs (I worked in calibration lab for 25 years so I am no stranger to specs) but I can't see a whole lot of difference between the two, maybe nail length and capacity.
And I first looked on the Bostitch website for the specs, not Amazon.
Is there any advantage of one model over the other? Any application where one model would be better than the other?
I already have Bostitch 16ga and 18ga nailers and am happy with them... no misfires or jamming.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks

BostitchHP118 (https://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-HP118K-23-Gauge-2-Inch-16-Inch/dp/B000EX71F0/ref=pd_lpo_1?pd_rd_w=6gJCk&content-id=amzn1.sym.116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_p=116f529c-aa4d-4763-b2b6-4d614ec7dc00&pf_rd_r=98RNDMZFP13VQAAJWNKQ&pd_rd_wg=Yof0U&pd_rd_r=a447666e-34a2-40ce-9e52-6ae271d41640&pd_rd_i=B000EX71F0&psc=1)

Bostitch BTFP2350K (https://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTFP2350K-Gauge-Finish-Nailer/dp/B07JPFHQK8)


(https://www.amazon.com/BOSTITCH-BTFP2350K-Gauge-Finish-Nailer/dp/B07JPFHQK8)

[John Kananis]

The second one is for 2 inch pins. The first link is for shorter pins.

[Patty Hann]

The second one is for 2 inch pins. The first link is for shorter pins.
Well, yes, I saw that in the specs, but I was asking if there is any other differences I should take into account in s choosing one over the other (pin capacity is different too, btw)

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Patty, the HP118 requires oil, has only a "hi-power" or "low power" switch for depth control and if you have a jam requires one to use tools to disassemble it to clear the jam. The BTFP2350K has a tool free jam latch to open it to clear a jam, it also has a tool-less, adjustable depth control that should be more precise, and is oil-less. There could be a weight difference too. The HP118 says it weighs 2.5 lbs. The BTFP2350K only states a shipping weight of 4.1 lbs. so I can't determine if the tool weights are dissimilar.

As you stated, there is a difference in useable pin length.

[Patty Hann]

Patty, the HP118 requires oil, has only a "hi-power" or "low power" switch for depth control and if you have a jam requires one to use tools to disassemble it to clear the jam. The BTFP2350K has a tool free jam latch to open it to clear a jam, it also has a tool-less, adjustable depth control that should be more precise, and is oil-less. There could be a weight difference too. The HP118 says it weighs 2.5 lbs. The BTFP2350K only states a shipping weight of 4.1 lbs. so I can't determine if the tool weights are dissimilar.
As you stated, there is a difference in useable pin length.

Thank you, ken. That is the type of info I was looking for. :)
Anything that requires disassembly to un-jam is a "no-buy" for me if there is an alternative.
The other two nailers I have are also "tool free un-jam."
So, the BTFP 2350KF is the one. Weight difference is negligible.
Thanks again

[Paul F Franklin]

The other thing I noticed is the 2350 has no/low nail lockout. That alone would make the difference for me, I hate nailers of any type that don't have it. It's so easy to get in the groove only to find out the last 10 fasteners were--um--fastener-less.

[John Ziebron]

Patty, if it helps make up your mind I can tell you that I've had the 2350 for a couple of years now and love it. I've had no problems with it and do have a rare occasion to use a 2 inch pin which is the main reason I bought it. As I've done with all my pneumatic tools for the last 50+ years I put a couple of drops of Marvel Mystery oil in them before each use. And I learned a long time ago to avoid any disappointments like Paul may have had to load it up with pins before using.

[Patty Hann]

Patty, if it helps make up your mind I can tell you that I've had the 2350 for a couple of years now and love it. I've had no problems with it and do have a rare occasion to use a 2 inch pin which is the main reason I bought it. As I've done with all my pneumatic tools for the last 50+ years I put a couple of drops of Marvel Mystery oil in them before each use. And I learned a long time ago to avoid any disappointments like Paul may have had to load it up with pins before using.

Thank you John for the "real life" review.
And Paul too, for your comment. The "no/low nail" lockout wouldn't matter too much if it were missing because I don't do rapid fire/high number nailing... just here and there maybe a dozen or so at a time.

Ken's comments about not needing to disassemble it to clear a jam pretty well "nailed" it for me (HAHA...yes, bad pun).
Nice to hear what others have to say about it. As I said, I have the Bostitch 16g and 18ga in the same line and have been happy with them.
So Thanks all. Will definitely get the 2350.

[Mike Walsh]

I've had the 118 model for a long time and also bought the 2350 model about 2 years ago. The 118 worked very well for most anything I used it for. I bought the 2350 to get the 2" pin capability, and it's now the only one I use

[Jim Becker]

While I'm partial to the Grex, that 2350 looks like a nice pin nailer and is the better choice based on what's already been said. I really love having a pin gun around...very versatile for both projects as well as temporary fixtures.

[George Yetka]

I too like the grex but its 2x the price. having 2" option is nice.

[Jim Dwight]

I have the 1 3/16 Bostitch and it has never jambed for me. While I agree I have wished for a longer pin on occasion I will also say that my 2 inch brad nailers occasionally angle a brad nail in a goofy direction due to grain in the wood. I think this would be significantly worse with a pinner. I am not saying not to get the newer pinner but take in mind the possibility the pin may exit oddly with respect to where you put your hands.

[Mark Wooden]

......... While I agree I have wished for a longer pin on occasion I will also say that my 2 inch brad nailers occasionally angle a brad nail in a goofy direction due to grain in the wood. I think this would be significantly worse with a pinner. I am not saying not to get the newer pinner but take in mind the possibility the pin may exit oddly with respect to where you put your hands.

Yes, this is important.....
A long time ago I worked in a dedicated mill shop making components for codominiums. I went in on a Saturday to work and was by myself in that part of the building, I was stapling a window frame together and one leg of a 2-1/2" staple hit a small knot, going through my middle fingertip and into the bench. I could not reach anything to put the staple and when I tried to move the frame it felt like it was going to rip my finger off. I shouted for five minutes or so until someone passing an open door heard me, came in and grabbed pliers to get the staple out of the bench. A quick trip to the ER and I was good, but, I to this day keep my hand far away from anything I'm using pneumatic nailers to assemble.
As to long pins, Im very old school about fasteners- if I need a fastener much more than an inch, I'll use a thicker brad nail; more than say 1-3/4" I'll switch to a finish nail. Better holding power with the heavier fastener and I dont care if I have to use a little bit of filler to hide the hole. Nothing p***es me off more than seeing where some 'trim carpenter' has fired 30 pins into a casing- or worse yet a jamb- and they pull when the door or window goes into service.
Same with cabinet moldings and crowns that gap when the building goes through seasonal humidity changes.
Pinners are a great tool, but not an end all to fastening things together

[Rich Engelhardt]

At this point in the world of nailers I'm not real sure I'd stick too much money in a pneumatic nailer.
Cordless nailers have come a long way and seem to be getting better all the time.

[John Kananis]

Apologies for the abbreviated response. Reading the initial post led me to believe that you had done due diligence and were just missing the obvious. I have a 2350 (not the k model) and have owned it at least 15 years. I have only had one jam (maybe 10 years ago) due to bad pins but I had to take the head apart to clear them so not sure how much i believe in the jam latch. That said, 1 jam in 15 years is pretty awesome I think.

Not a big fan of cordless (although they have their place). (For me) They're generally to large and awkward to fit into the right place at the right time.

As far as rogue staples go, I'm sure a chunk of us had something similar happen at some point. I was building sound suppression boxes (they hang from the ceiling) for a restaurant some years ago and all I had were way too long staples. I was stapling the fabric in place when a staple went sideways on me and shot through my finger. I'm a little extra careful now.

[Michael Drew]

No experience with the brands mentions, but I did buy a pin nailer last year, and use it more frequently than I thought I would. It's great when I'm gluing edge banding on cabinets, and I shoot the pins to just hold the boards in place till I can get a clamp on them. Very handy. I use up to 1.5" pins, but would shy away from longer, unless maybe I'm working with non-wood stuff??

Don't buy the Makita pin nailer. I did, because I LOVE my Makita brad nailer. I don't know how they screwed up the pin nailer so much, but it absolutely refuses to shoot 3/4" pins. And coincidentally, 3/4" is the length I tend to reach for the most often. I gave my Makita to my son, and bought a Metabo. The Metabo works well. I use the Grex pins. They seam to work well. (in retro spec, I should have just bought the Grex nailer too).

Don't buy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NIJP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pin nailer #2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXM64Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

[Jim Becker]

I have the 1 3/16 Bostitch and it has never jambed for me. While I agree I have wished for a longer pin on occasion I will also say that my 2 inch brad nailers occasionally angle a brad nail in a goofy direction due to grain in the wood. I think this would be significantly worse with a pinner. I am not saying not to get the newer pinner but take in mind the possibility the pin may exit oddly with respect to where you put your hands.
Many of us have learned that "lesson" the hard way...when the hard metal entered our fingers. ;) Grain deflection is real when these small fasteners get long and flexible and anything that would guide a long 18 gage brad "off the path" will do an even better job with a 2" 23 gage headless pin! Been there...done that. That said, there are times when the longer fasteners come in handy, such as for tacking up trim while gue dries. Even without heads, angling them into whatever is behind the material being fastened will provide some reasonable holding power.

[Ron Citerone]

I’ve never “pinned” my finger but have seen enough pins pop out where you wouldn’t expect. Be careful where you hold the molding!

I used mine a lot more than I expected on the cottage renovation.

Mine is a Porter Cable and I am quite satisfied with it’s perfomance.

[Patty Hann]

While I'm partial to the Grex, that 2350 looks like a nice pin nailer and is the better choice based on what's already been said. I really love having a pin gun around...very versatile for both projects as well as temporary fixtures.


I too like the grex but its 2x the price. having 2" option is nice.

HAHA....Grex...The Festool of Pin nailers.
Or is there already a spendy [non-bilious**] Green pin-nailer out there?

Btw, for those interested in this sort of thing here is the color coding for "Festool Green":

493944

**Ryobi= bilious green

[Patty Hann]

At this point in the world of nailers I'm not real sure I'd stick too much money in a pneumatic nailer.
Cordless nailers have come a long way and seem to be getting better all the time.

I did consider a cordless one.
A woodshop teacher(friend) has a cordless Milwaukee that he is happy with.
I use the Milwaukee cordless platform (for all of my whopping 3 cordless tools) so that would have worked out conveniently enough.

But 1) I don't know at the moment how the cordless nailers stack up to each other, and
2) Not being in construction, not having to travel, and not doing "assembly-line" projects to sell, I don't use cordless.

I really don't like it. I dislike having a tool die on me in the middle of use, and the cost of the batteries, not to mention the disposal/landfill problem.
I'm not against them per se...like any tool it has its place/use. Just not for me.
The only cordless tool I use a lot is my Red drill, then the Rover flood light. Occasional use is the OMT.

[andrew whicker]

No experience with the brands mentions, but I did buy a pin nailer last year, and use it more frequently than I thought I would. It's great when I'm gluing edge banding on cabinets, and I shoot the pins to just hold the boards in place till I can get a clamp on them. Very handy. I use up to 1.5" pins, but would shy away from longer, unless maybe I'm working with non-wood stuff??

Don't buy the Makita pin nailer. I did, because I LOVE my Makita brad nailer. I don't know how they screwed up the pin nailer so much, but it absolutely refuses to shoot 3/4" pins. And coincidentally, 3/4" is the length I tend to reach for the most often. I gave my Makita to my son, and bought a Metabo. The Metabo works well. I use the Grex pins. They seam to work well. (in retro spec, I should have just bought the Grex nailer too).

Don't buy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M1NIJP1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pin nailer #2. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KXM64Q5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&th=1

What do you use the 3/4" pins for?

[andrew whicker]

I have nothing to add to OP's question and it sounds like it's been answered.

I just wanted to say that I've been super agnostic on nailer brand and have been happy with all of mine so far except my one Porter Cable. It's kind of nice to buy pneumatic tools, you don't have to worry about battery compatibility! The freedom!

Rigid framing nailer
Metabo HPT cordless 16g
Bostitch 18g
Porter Cable 23g

They've all worked pretty well. The biggest problem child is the Porter Cable (bought a cheap, stripped down brand because I was only using it for one job... maybe.. kind of thing). It does that thing where it sneezes sometimes and nothing comes out. I'm impressed w/ the build quality of the Bostitch so I'll have to upgrade the PC some day down the road to Bostitch or better. The PC doesn't have depth control so I have to adjust the compressor pressure. Not the end of the world, but obviously the best method is to have the compressor set at a pressure and all your guns have depth control.

It's hard / impossible to say whether you got a dud from the factory line or the brand's overall quality is poor.