Router bit needed

[Robert Hayward]

Looking for a router bit that can cut the shape in the picture. The wood in the picture is 3/4" thick.

[John Kananis]

Hmm, I'd send whiteside an email with that pic and see what they say.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Check "edge forming bits" at most places. Here's one site. https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edge.html

[Jamie Buxton]

I'd use a reeding bit. You can get them to cut one V, in which case you'd make two passes, one from each face of the board. You can also get reeding bits to cut two V in one pass. Every bit manufacturer makes reeding bits.

[Edward Weber]

Just a slight variation on a triple bead bit.
Is this an old piece you're trying to replicate?

[Cameron Wood]

Make a scratch stock. Easy to make and use for that profile, but finding the perfect router bit- difficult to impossible.

[Robert Hayward]

Is this an old piece you're trying to replicate?
Yes, but does not have to be an exact match, just close. I left a message and picture for Whiteside yesterday. It will be interesting to see if they come up with anything.

[John Kananis]

I think that's a good place to start and I'm curious what they say. They've been pretty helpful (and very knowledgeable) the couple times I needed some direction.

[Tom M King]

Todd at Whiteside would know. He keeps in his head what they make for other companies too, like Eagle America. They don't make custom one-offs any more though. They only do customs in multiples of six now.

[Patty Hann]

Todd at Whiteside would know. He keeps in his head what they make for other companies too, like Eagle America. They don't make custom one-offs any more though. They only do customs in multiples of six now.

Whiteside makes Eagle America bits? I didn't know that.
Any idea how E-A ones compare to the Whiteside ones?... (apple to apples, that is.... flush trim to flush trim, straight to straight, ogee to ogee etc)
Thanks

[William Hodge]

Connecticut Saw and Tool makes one off custom router bits. If time is money, it's well worth it. On the other hand, having plenty of time and not much money makes hand carving a viable alternative. Generally, a custom router bit is worth it to me if it saves me two hours of work, or if the result is better than what I can do improvising.

[Tom M King]

Eagle America has several lines. Whiteside makes the top end line.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

This outfit has an impressive selection. 3715 to chose from!

Welcome to Ballew Saw and Tool! (https://ballewsaw.com/)

Router Bits from Amana, CMT, Onsrud and more (https://ballewsaw.com/routerbits/)

[Robert M Richardson]

There are a number of custom router bit manufacturers out there. Orbit Tool Works made one for me to copy an old raised panel form and it worked very well.

[Jamie Buxton]

This....
493597
You make two passes. The first cuts one groove. Flip the workpiece over to cut the other groove with the second pass.
You can buy the bit on Amazon --https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Beading-Carbide-Tipped-Router/dp/B00069V21G

[Cameron Wood]

This....
493597
You make two passes. The first cuts one groove. Flip the workpiece over to cut the other groove with the second pass.
You can buy the bit on Amazon --https://www.amazon.com/Magnate-Beading-Carbide-Tipped-Router/dp/B00069V21G



Sort of, but that makes a 1/4" bead in the center, plus the 1/8" radius on each side, leaving 1/8" flats, and too deep of grooves.

I wish I had a nickel for every hour that I've spent trying to match old mouldings and furniture details with router bits.

[Bruce Page]

The bits do exist but I'm not having any luck finding info now. I made this aquarium stand in the late 90's using a Whiteside bit for the edge detail. I believe it was a whitside bit but not positive.

[Robert Hayward]

Here is better detail on what I am looking for.

[Mel Fulks]

All of the offered “do it yourself “ suggestions are good solid , low cost or no cost , get it done for “free” and quick ideas. The tops of the
pieces have such a shallow depth. It’s a “getter done ,and brag to the wife thing”. Don’t turn down your chance !

[John Kananis]

It looks like this one will work for you. Its cutting length is 1 inch bit you don't need the 1/8 (assuming) flats on the top or bottom either so raise it 7/8" on the router table and run the 3/4 material through.

https://www.whitesiderouterbits.com/products/3200

Edit: you'll need to use your fence as a guide, the bearing will be kind of useless due to the extra cutting length.

[Frederick Skelly]

I'd use a reeding bit. You can get them to cut one V, in which case you'd make two passes, one from each face of the board.

I'd do this. Wouldn't buy special/custom tooling unless you anticpate doing a lot of this.

[Robert Hayward]

Look what I have found at Lee Valley. (https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/101856-stanley-number-55-molding-router-bits-beading?item=16J5562&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&srsltid=AeTuncoTh7KrYK-P2dRfSHQQgESmKnKxP-VZK2-jMzvX4OCtFA5mKWtU0Qk) I did not even know Stanley had their name on router bits. This is not an exact match but looks to be close enough for what I am doing. A lot cheaper than custom tooling by a long shot.

I was able to find this thanks to all the helpful people posting suggestions that I followed up on. Thank you everyone!

[Robert Hayward]

I think that's a good place to start and I'm curious what they say.
I received a response early this morning via email. I had used their website "contact us" page and included a link to the picture I posted here in my first post to this thread. My message to Whiteside was almost verbatim to my first post. The response was "Which piece is the ¾” piece?", which I found very strange. Judging by the numerous responses here everyone knew which piece of wood I was talking about. I responded with a closeup picture with a ruler on the edge of the wood and have not heard back.

[John Kananis]

Quite surprised to hear this. Those folks were beyond helpful in my experiences with them. Give the guy 24 hrs and see what he comes up with. Did you check the bit I linked above?


I received a response early this morning via email. I had used their website "contact us" page and included a link to the picture I posted here in my first post to this thread. My message to Whiteside was almost verbatim to my first post. The response was "Which piece is the ¾” piece?", which I found very strange. Judging by the numerous responses here everyone knew which piece of wood I was talking about. I responded with a closeup picture with a ruler on the edge of the wood and have not heard back.

[Dave Zellers]

I received a response early this morning via email. I had used their website "contact us" page and included a link to the picture I posted here in my first post to this thread. My message to Whiteside was almost verbatim to my first post. The response was "Which piece is the ¾” piece?", which I found very strange. Judging by the numerous responses here everyone knew which piece of wood I was talking about. I responded with a closeup picture with a ruler on the edge of the wood and have not heard back.

I'm not at all surprised by their response because in the picture, the centered piece looks to be much thicker than 3/4". The other pieces look to be 3/4" and the prominent piece looks like 1 1/2" to me. I was confused as well.

What is that thing?

[Dave Zellers]

What you found is a beading bit which is clearly not what you are looking for. The center section is flat like the right and left. Perhaps a parting bit with a larger bearing or buy the bit you showed and replace the bearing with a slightly larger one?

[Robert Hayward]

I agree the beading bit will not produce the exact profile as the original. As you suggest changing to a larger bearing should leave a small flat. Then maybe a little sanding and I will get close enough to original.

The original piece is a small table that I restored/refinished. The table was a trash day roadside find by a neighbor. She was all excited and showed it to me with intentions of her doing the restore. I looked at the table a second time and told her it was solid black walnut and should not be too difficult to redo. She let it sit in her garage for a couple weeks and then asked me if I wanted it. Said no and then change my mind as I was looking for a project to work on. Also told her if I did all the work I would not give it back when finished, to which she agreed.

The original glue joints were brittle and I was able to completely disassemble the table with no damage. Making it much easier to strip, repair and refinish. One leg was cracked which was a pretty easy repair. The original finish stripped relatively easy and left a nice surface that required sanding only. I did the new finish in shellac which I think was the original finish. There were some lighter areas of wood so I also used a walnut colored stain before the shellac, to even out the color of the wood.

The table turned out nice enough that I have been asked by two people to make one each for them. One of the people being the person that found the original! This is why I want a bit to cut the profile on the legs. The table top edge detail should be doable with bits I have on hand. Or at least get close.

I think the table was made somewhere in the 1950's or early 1960's. I stripped and sanded away the makers markings on the bottom side of the table top which I now regret. There was an ink stamped number 933 1/2, pencil writing that I could not read- maybe the workers initials and a chalk written number.

[Tom M King]

Look what I have found at Lee Valley. (https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/router-bits/101856-stanley-number-55-molding-router-bits-beading?item=16J5562&utm_source=free_google_shopping&utm_medium=organic&utm_campaign=shopping_feed&srsltid=AeTuncoTh7KrYK-P2dRfSHQQgESmKnKxP-VZK2-jMzvX4OCtFA5mKWtU0Qk) I did not even know Stanley had their name on router bits. This is not an exact match but looks to be close enough for what I am doing. A lot cheaper than custom tooling by a long shot.

I was able to find this thanks to all the helpful people posting suggestions that I followed up on. Thank you everyone!

That's not a Stanley router bit, but one of a number of router bits Lee Valley sells to match profiles of the Stanley combination plane cutters. I've found several useful over the years.