Vehicle Scratches??

[John Terefenko]

Thought I would throw this question out here because we have the smartest eclectic group of members ever assembled. I have a 2012 Silverado pickup truck that I am keeping for another few years at least. I take good care of my vehicles whatever I own. The other day I noticed a bunch of small not deep or wide scratches in the top of the front fenders probably from when a mechanic worked on it from his belt buckle. He either was too lazy to get a fender protector out or did not have them. I know I always use them as soon as the hood goes up. It is garage 101. Anyway I was thinking I have seen many commercials on tv where they advertise products that can remove scratches like that even with today's clear coat paints. They even show a person taking a key and running it down the hood and then using their product it is magically gone. So my question is, has anyone used a product like this and if so what is the name and where can you get it?/ Did it actually work?? What is the magic secret to them?? Are there any do's and dont's?? Are there any cons to using them?? Maguires touts their scratch removal waxes do they work. I worry with todays clear coat finishes these products can do more harm than good. Thanks for the replys.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I suspect you'll get some expert answers, but as a car-finish novice, I have found this to be a really simple way to polish out superficial scratches by hand: https://www.griotsgarage.com/one-step-sealant-16-ounces/. Gentle enough to avoid risking damaging anything, and pretty easy to rub with a rag until light scuffs disappear.

[Ron Selzer]

I have good luck using Dr. ColorChip | (drcolorchip.com) (https://drcolorchip.com/)

[George Bokros]

There is a product called Scratch X by Meguiars. It works pretty good and is clear coat safe. I would give it a try.

https://www.meguiars.com/automotive/products/meguiars-scratchx-g10307-7-oz

[Tom M King]

Once you get the scratches controlled, this is a great way to finish off a wash job. You need a couple of large, thick microfiber cloths, but it doesn't take much out of the bottle, so a bottle lasts a long time, as does the shine and it repels dirt good too. It couldn't be easier to apply. You just mist it on after you've rinsed the vehicle while it's still wet, and get most of the water off with the larger microfiber towels.

https://www.amazon.com/Meguiars-G190526-Hybrid-Ceramic-Wax/dp/B06WVQ6MVR/ref=asc_df_B06WVQ6MVR/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=241984506923&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=3278608390241351148&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009793&hvtargid=pla-583111258466&th=1

[Rich Engelhardt]

+1 to the ceramics.
3 years ago, Torque Detail (https://www.torquedetail.com/)was the highest rated so I bought the "three bottle value pack' - three bottles for $75.
I a[[lied three coats to my then new Kona & it looks like I just put it on an hour ago. The stuff is fantastic.
Super easy to apply also.

Torque also makes a scratch remover.

[Michael Drew]

I have had some luck with Meguiar's Microfiber paint correction system. https://www.meguiars.com/professional/products/meguiars-da-microfiber-correction-system-5-starter-kit-complete-paint

You'll need a RO polisher to use the pads with it. I have a very black corvette that shows a blemish if a gnat farts next to it....

Nothing will work miracles though. Sometimes the scratch is too deep and the area needs new clear, but this stuff will fix most issues other than what that a professional with aggressive compounds and tools will be needed to address.

[John Terefenko]

Thanks everyone. I think I will try the Mcguire's stuff first and see what happens.

[Warren Lake]

You dont show a photo and even so sometimes hard to shoot to show the damage. If your thumb nail catches on it its too deep to sand and buff out. Im not up on filling but I think Larry (ammo Detail) has one or two you tubes on deeper scratches if I remember correctly and there will be others.

[John Terefenko]

You dont show a photo and even so sometimes hard to shoot to show the damage. If your thumb nail catches on it its too deep to sand and buff out. Im not up on filling but I think Larry (ammo Detail) has one or two you tubes on deeper scratches if I remember correctly and there will be others.
here is a photo. The surround area around the scratches is basically dirt. That washes off. The scratches are there to stay I guess.


493778

[Mel Fulks]

That’s the problem with the metallic paints . The old solid color ,non glazed paint lasted too long … so the car makers went to flashy ,easily
scratched and hard to fix. When I was a kid ,when a car got a deep scratch guys would just use rubbing compound to “rub it out” Then wax.
At that time no one in gangster movies got “killed for ratting”, or “knowing too much “. The bosses would tell an enforcer to “ rub a guy out”

[Patty Hann]

here is a photo. The surround area around the scratches is basically dirt. That washes off. The scratches are there to stay I guess.


493778

So none of the suggestions worked?
That is too bad. (And the mechanic was a moron.)

[Tom M King]

What have you used on the scratches so far?

[Kev Williams]

Some No.7 heavy duty rubbing compound, followed by some No.7 polishing compound, followed by some Meguires Cleaner/Wax... just follow all the directions :)

[Tom M King]

From the color of the "scratches" in the picture, it looks like a lot of it may just be rubbed off from the belt buckle. Before going to more drastic measures, try some toothpaste with a wet rag to see if the color rubs away.

[Warren Lake]

did you check with your thumbnail? its the starting point a detailer would do. crappy photo, car dirty. Often hard to shoot stuff. dirt in the scratch makes it show up. Mechanic responsible.

[John Terefenko]

To answer a few questions. I believe the mechanic past the truck on to someone to clean and wash the motor down because it was in for repairs on heater hoses because they broke and spewed antifreeze all over the engine compartment. I have seen those guys in action when a new car is prepped and it is not pretty. Not sure if this was the case because I am not going back to raise a stink because it is my brothers favorite dealer and he gets perks there so do not want to disrupt his actions. I am done with that dealership though.

As far as what I did. I washed the vehicle. I used Mothers cream wax and waxed the areas in question. The other fender has scratches as well but not as bad. This action has sort of masked the scratches but if you look with the right angle they are there and yes the fingernail test shows they are scratches and not dirt. I picked up some Mcguires scratch removal paste and also their top coating wax and will try this. Unfortunately the weather here has been rain every other day. Will give it a try but do not have high expectations. I will do these measures when I go to sell it in 3 years to help mask this area because really this truck is in good shape with no damage. I am sort of a stickler for keeping my vehicles well kept. I did not want to wash truck before I took photos so that is why they are not the best. Plus it was cloudy and between rain storms.

[Tom M King]

If they aren't all the way through the clear coat, you can wet sand them out with something from 600 to 3000 grit wet-and-dry sandpaper. I'd start with 1500 to see if that will take them out, not wanting to use coarser than absolutely necessary. If they can be sanded out like this, continue up through the finer grits, and buff it back out.

I don't know how to buff such work out without a power buffer though. I could explain how to do it, but it does require the proper tool setup, and polishing compound is not cheap either.

If they are all the way through the clearcoat, I can get into that too, but won't unless it would do some good. Eastwood sells 2 part clearcoat in spray cans that do a surprisingly good job. You have to follow the directions on how to mix the two parts.

https://www.eastwood.com/ew-2k-aerosol-high-gloss-clear.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAt66eBhCnARIsAKf3ZNEzU5yV6 wv18sMq2PfgRJKvMt_vSfZt5YXxJRoW9405STI4jAO09PoaArt uEALw_wcB&wcid=18669317223&wickedid=629952193864&wickedsource=google&wv=4

This is not a cheap fix if you don't already have the stuff to do it with.

edited to add: To further complicate what seems like a simple job, you need just the right foam backup block for the fine sandpaper, or finger pressure alone can go too easily too deep.

To do it right, it's probably not possible to say exactly what would be needed to do it before starting. Some of it requires starting into it and figuring it out as you go along. It's simple with enough tools to call on, but hard to state exactly how to begin with. Foam blocks come in a bunch of different sizes, shapes, and flexibiities.