Tall bookcase, floor out of level – what would you do?

[Tyler Bancroft]

I recently built a fairly tall (~6.5') bookcase designed to fit flush against a wall. When it's flush at the base, there's about a 3/4" gap between the wall and the backboard at the top. Checked and the floor under it seems to be a bit out of level - something I didn't plan for. (I am reasonably sure the base of the bookcase is square.) Shim it? Pull out the block plane and take just enough off the base to get the case level?

[Michael Burnside]

I would never level by making it out of level with a plane. I would recess levelers into the feet/base if possible, which I've done many times for bookcases. In fact, I did just that on a 6'8" bookcase I built a month ago. If the design doesn't allow for it, I'd shim it with thin-ripped stock that matches the base with a couple small tacks of CA glue.

[Richard Coers]

Shim the base and add some quarter round to disguise it. I'd only use a couple of headless pins so the case can be moved and the shims could easily be removed.

[Steve Clardy]

Shim the base and add some quarter round to disguise it. I'd only use a couple of headless pins so the case can be moved and the shims could easily be removed.

This^^

Or even flat trim to cover the gap.

[Ole Anderson]

Every tall bookcase I have required shimming.

[Brian Tymchak]

Definitely don't trim the case itself. If you want to move it in the future you've created another problem. I might be inclined to build a base a few inches high that matched the trim of the case and solves the alignment problem. Being a tall case, I might be inclined to lean it back to the wall a tiny bit. Or tether it to the wall, as an anti-tip measure.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I have dealt with this by cutting a wedge of wood that matches the bookcase for each side. If you get someone else to hold the top against the wall you can measure the required height at the front, and from there it's easy to cut a long wedge on the bandsaw or whatever. I have not felt the need to add trim to hide the wedges, but I am an informal person. If the wedges are not wider than the bookshelf sides they won't really show, unless someone is crawling around on the floor, and then you may have more serious problems to contend with. You'll probably only need between 1/8" and 3/16" height in front to bring it level, and that's pretty minimal.

[Mel Fulks]

I trust the walls and put a screw ,or two through to studs. The floor guys don’t seem to sand as well around the walls, so it’s an uphill
fight to get vertically .

[Tom M King]

Cut some temporary wedges, wedge it up plumb and level, and then decide how to do it more permanently. I keep boxes of wedges and shims already cut in a bunch of different sizes.

[Bill Dufour]

I would shim it then screw it to the wall. Anything taller then mid-chest should be anchored to the wall so it does not fall over and kill you in a quake or tornado. More so with little kids around.
Bill D

[Lee Schierer]

I had a similar problem with a desk I made. I solved it by shimming it with the shims you use to install a door. Then carefully measured the height and length of the base and made some tapered shims from the same wood and finish and slipped those shims under the base so the desk top was level. The shims are barely noticeable and if the desk ever moves to another location, it still has a level base.

[Christian Hawkshaw]

Leveler feet like in the below link may be an option if you have an apron round the bottom to conceal them AND you have enough room to mount them such that the footprint is not too narrow to make the shelf unstable...You would want the feet to be as close to the back and front as possible.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077QLSWTG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used them in this project, which has a similar footprint to a shelf (around 12 inches):

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?269820-Small-Console-Cabinet&highlight=

[Bill Dufour]

I have read of toddlers being killed by chests of drawers falling on them as they try to climb. A book case looks like a ladder to a toddler or a cat. My stove came with a bracket so it can not tip over.
Bill D
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

Unless the bookcase is permanently attached to the wall as a "built-in", it does indeed need to have some form of fastener for safety to make sure it can't be tipped over. That's not limited to having kids running about, either...adults can be seriously injured by tipping furniture which can happen for a wide variety of accidental reasons.

[Rob Luter]

You don’t reveal the flooring involved. If carpeting, there’s a tack strip at the wall that will make for uneven footing on a four point base. The wall side on top of the tack strip is nearly 1/4” higher. I’ve encountered this a number of times. I just add shims under the two front feet. If it’s uneven or sagging hard surface flooring the same approach will work, but it’s a little tougher to conceal.

[Bill Dufour]

If you live in North America you live in either/or earthquake or hurricane country. Either one will knock over a bookcase onto your head.
bill D

[Tom Bender]

Another thing that can help is making it 3 footed. Adjustable feet under the front edge and only one in the back at the center.

[Vince Shriver]

+ 1 with Bill. Here on the left coast you can sometimes "feel the earth move under your feet". Always prudent to tether certain furniture to the wall.

[John K Jordan]

...I have not felt the need to add trim to hide the wedges, but I am an informal person. ...

Ah, I see that as an indicator of balance, key to a happy and satisfied life!

[glenn bradley]

Another vote for wall attachment from one who lives where the ground sometimes does the Watusi. Level the unit, attach to the wall, and scribe in some trim (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-cYp73ewEE&t=291s).