Jointer problems and questions?

[Josh Goldsmith]

Hello everyone! I am very new to using a jointer and have a few questions. I just bought the jointer used. It is a grizzly 8" 1018HW. When i first bought it i had a problem with "snipe" and you guys helped me find out that the outfeed table was to low. Now i am having a problem with vibration. The wood wants to "clatter". Is it something i am doing wrong? Could it be dull blades? Also i am having a problem with the wood sliding then slowing down almost sticking then it goes back to normal then sticks again. I thought the table needed to be waxed so i waxed it with johnsons wax, but it still does it. It is not the motor slowing down but the wood getting stuck. It leaves "ripples" in the wood. It seems like i am having all these problems. Thanks Josh

[Joe Chritz]

Sounds like it may be a problem with feed direction. Some woods are very picky to be feed one direction. It needs to go "with" the grain. Not sure how to spell it out but once you see it not hard to see what way to go.

Take one of the chattery boards and feed it from the other end. Same face and see if that clears it up.

Not sure about "sticking" maybe something with feed rate or pressure on the board. Technique is important with a jointer. Luckily I had someone show me good form, maybe someone here can suggest decent reading material for it.

Or check your local community college or adult ed for a wood shop program. They are very very valuable with a good instructor.

Joe

[Charles Bruno]

Josh,
I had that same problem with my jointer after milling a a small truckload of rough cut oak. My planer was having problems too. The oak dulled my knifes and my T/S blade. The jointer was acting just as you described. My guess is your knifes are dull.
Hope this helps you.

[Tom Jones III]

When I feel that the jointer is "sticky" or the wood does not slide well over the table that is a sure sign that the knives are past dull.

Rippling is often caused by one knife being higher than the others.

Sticking - could you be pushing down too hard on the wood?

[John Hemenway]

What wood are you jointing? Some are tricker than others.

A good check for knife sharpness -- if you can see the edge it needs sharpening. You will also get to experience one of the 'funnest' things in WW, changing jointer knives!! :o

A second set would be a good idea, several sources were menitoned in a thread here on SMC a week or so back.

[Gary Keedwell]

Josh,


Had the same problem a couple of weeks ago and replaced my blades. After a fun 2 hours with my indicator and wrench, Im happy to report that my jointer is running smooth again. Some day I'm goin to replace the cutting head with one of those carbide insert heads.

[Josh Goldsmith]

I have been trying to joint Honduras Mahagony, zebra wood, alder. I have tryed to joint the wood in one direction then turn it around on the same face and joint it. I still get the "chatter". I thought it might be my pressure on pushing down on the board but i get more "chatter" because the board moves around. Now on to the blades. Can you take them out and have them sharpened or do you have to buy new ones. What tools to i need to put them back in? I can't wait to get it working proper. Talk to you soon.

[Dan Racette]

have you waxed your tables?

[Eric McMillan]

have you waxed your tables?

When you wax, don't forget the fence.

[Josh Goldsmith]

I waxed the table twice and the fence twice. It is wierd. I feel like i am one of those guys who just pick something up and within a few minute i know how to work it good. So this is really frustrating me. Especially since i just bought it. I will post a pic of the jointer just incase you all see something that i am missing.

[Tom Jones III]

If the mahog is straight grained, then it is about the easiest wood to face joint.

I buy my knives from http://globaltooling.bizhosting.com/planer_knives.html
I bought 2 extra sets so that when I have 2 dull knives and a sharp set in the tool then I get them sharpened. Check your local ww'ing stores for local sharpening services.

Pull out your manual to get the exact dimensions of the blades to buy. The manual should also tell you how to change the blades. It is usually a very simple, if tedious, procedure. Patience pays off here and it will get much faster with practice.

For changing planer knives I got the "Jointer Pal". Here is a link, but it is available everywhere http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1NL/103-8914187-3857467?v=glance&n=228013

Here is an article to get you started with your knife changing:
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/knife_adjustment.shtml

If you have a dial indicator you might prefer this method:
http://benchmark.20m.com/articles/SettingJointerKnives/SettingJointerKnives.html
Another good article
http://www.owwm.com/FAQ/JointerTune.asp

Take your time and get your mind set that this will take a long time your first try or two. Get it set nice and accurate and your cutting will go smoothly.

[Mike Linne]

Symptons described indicate dull knives.