Hammer K3 slider T-nuts?

[Michael Drew]

I'm trying to source a handful of T-nuts for my K3. Preferable the kind that has the little alignment ball, and 5/16" thread, as I have an assortment of jig parts and stuff for 5/16 x 18. Didn't expect this to be this difficult to find....

The slot width at the top is .438
Total depth is .770
Total width at the slot bottom is .870

[Robyn Horton]

I'm keeping an eye on this as I need a few for my K3 also.

[Dan Friedrichs]

Also curious if there's a better solution. I made some out of HDPE and tapped them.

[Erik Loza]

…I made some out of HDPE and tapped them.

IMHO, Dan’s solution is the real answer. ^^^

In the early 2000’s, Yeung Chan did an in-house seminar at Felder-Sacramento and brought a bunch of T-nuts he had made out of hardwood, with helicoil-type inserts. I always felt there was a real market for an item like this. You could mill lengths of phenolic to the appropriate profile, drill a hole, then epoxy-in a threaded insert.

Erik

[Cary Falk]

They sound easy enough to make if I am understanding correctly. A wedge of sorts with a tapped hold. I could 3d print them, but I don't think I would trust the strength. I could probably mill them on my CNC pretty easily. If nobody can find a solution and there is enough interest, I might give it a go.

Seeing Erik's post, 3d printed with a heilcoil sounds simple enough.

[Michael Drew]

I know I can make them. I just want to buy a few of the little buggers that are made from aluminum or stainless. I actually have a couple lengths of plastic stuff from Felder that is part of a kit to build a wagon extender. The fit is OK, but I had to run them through a planer to fit the Hammer T slot properly.

This is what I'm looking for.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MQ9PGE/?coliid=II62WHPMO76FB&colid=3R2MV4DPOS5L7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

[Derek Cohen]

IMHO, Dan’s solution is the real answer. ^^^

In the early 2000’s, Yeung Chan did an in-house seminar at Felder-Sacramento and brought a bunch of T-nuts he had made out of hardwood, with helicoil-type inserts. I always felt there was a real market for an item like this. You could mill lengths of phenolic to the appropriate profile, drill a hole, then epoxy-in a threaded insert.

Erik

As far as I know, Felder sells this in lengths. I have two lengths of 1 metre. Black UHMW.

There is a small section of it under this F&F …

https://i.postimg.cc/tX1sVzKg/FF7a.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Michael Drew]

That's the same stuff I was referring to earlier, Derek. It works, OK, but not for what I'm looking to do.

I think the correct term for T-nut I want is "Roll in". They all seem to be made for extruded aluminum, and mostly metric. I could live with metric threads, but the width is the problem.

This was not supposed to be a challenge...... grrrr

[Steve Wurster]

I know I can make them. I just want to buy a few of the little buggers that are made from aluminum or stainless. I actually have a couple lengths of plastic stuff from Felder that is part of a kit to build a wagon extender. The fit is OK, but I had to run them through a planer to fit the Hammer T slot properly.

This is what I'm looking for.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MQ9PGE/?coliid=II62WHPMO76FB&colid=3R2MV4DPOS5L7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im

While the 5/16-18 equivalent of those are also not in stock at Amazon, you can probably find them on other sites. I have a set of the linked 1/4-20 ones but basically don't use them.

I more recently bought a set of tapped aluminum blocks from Ramon Valdez (not available on his site; he and I communicated through Instagram). They fit nicely in the top slot on the slider and since they don't slide around "very" freely I can just leave them in the slot all the time. They are tapped at M10 x 1.5 and he included two knurled bolts along with them. They work very well with the Kreg Automaxx clamps combined with the Kreg KBCBA base. You just place the clamp on the table above the block and drop the bolt through the base and thread it into the block. No need to slide clamps in from the end of the table.

I like this design so much that I made a few more blocks for myself out of some scrap pieces of hardwood, tapped to the appropriate thread. I also did the same for smaller blocks that fit into the side channel on the table (although I have no jigs at the moment that can take advantage of these). Then I bought a few simple knobs and adjustable handle-style ones off Amazon to use with table jigs. For example, my F&F jig can be clamped down via these blocks if need be.

[Rick Mainhart]

Hi Michael,

Will these work?

https://www.amazon.com/16-18-Roll-T-Nut-Spring-Profile/dp/B08DC9QL93/ref=asc_df_B08DC9QL93/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475740448555&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4488351235144068490&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009606&hvtargid=pla-1132050555812&psc=1

Regards,

Rick

[Michael Drew]

While the 5/16-18 equivalent of those are also not in stock at Amazon, you can probably find them on other sites. I have a set of the linked 1/4-20 ones but basically don't use them.

I more recently bought a set of tapped aluminum blocks from Ramon Valdez (not available on his site; he and I communicated through Instagram). They fit nicely in the top slot on the slider and since they don't slide around "very" freely I can just leave them in the slot all the time. They are tapped at M10 x 1.5 and he included two knurled bolts along with them. They work very well with the Kreg Automaxx clamps combined with the Kreg KBCBA base. You just place the clamp on the table above the block and drop the bolt through the base and thread it into the block. No need to slide clamps in from the end of the table.

I like this design so much that I made a few more blocks for myself out of some scrap pieces of hardwood, tapped to the appropriate thread. I also did the same for smaller blocks that fit into the side channel on the table (although I have no jigs at the moment that can take advantage of these). Then I bought a few simple knobs and adjustable handle-style ones off Amazon to use with table jigs. For example, my F&F jig can be clamped down via these blocks if need be.

Thank you. I looking to do something very similar to what you have done. I'll have to give Ramon's a look. I bought a couple of his ZCIs, and he does good work.


Hi Michael,

Will these work?

https://www.amazon.com/16-18-Roll-T-Nut-Spring-Profile/dp/B08DC9QL93/ref=asc_df_B08DC9QL93/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=475740448555&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=4488351235144068490&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9009606&hvtargid=pla-1132050555812&psc=1

Regards,

Rick

I bought some of those for some extrusion, but they are not wide enough for the slider the slot.

[Lee Schierer]

I'm trying to source a handful of T-nuts for my K3. Preferable the kind that has the little alignment ball, and 5/16" thread, as I have an assortment of jig parts and stuff for 5/16 x 18. Didn't expect this to be this difficult to find....

The slot width at the top is .438
Total depth is .770
Total width at the slot bottom is .870

Try this link (https://www.faz-store.net/collections/15-series-45-fasteners) There seem to be a variety of sources when you google it, but none appear to be made from aluminum.

[Steve Wurster]

I bought some of those for some extrusion, but they are not wide enough for the slider the slot.

These look to be the same as the 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 ones from Faztek. How are the 5/16-18 ones not wide enough? The 1/4-20 ones I have work fine; as you tighten the bolt the nut will raise in the slot and self-center due to its profile. Are the ones you have actually narrower than the width of the slot itself?

[Chris Parks]

I'm trying to source a handful of T-nuts for my K3. Preferable the kind that has the little alignment ball, and 5/16" thread, as I have an assortment of jig parts and stuff for 5/16 x 18. Didn't expect this to be this difficult to find....

The slot width at the top is .438
Total depth is .770
Total width at the slot bottom is .870

My curiosity makes me ask what jigs and stuff do you want these for?

[Michael Drew]

These look to be the same as the 1/4-20 and 5/16-18 ones from Faztek. How are the 5/16-18 ones not wide enough? The 1/4-20 ones I have work fine; as you tighten the bolt the nut will raise in the slot and self-center due to its profile. Are the ones you have actually narrower than the width of the slot itself?

Not quite, but real close.

[Michael Drew]

My curiosity makes me ask what jigs and stuff do you want these for?

I just wanted a few for use with jigs, like a F&F. I want to leave them in the slider T-slot, but they would be self centering, and somewhat snug fitting so I didn't have to hunt for them when screwing a faster to them, through the jig or device I happen to be using.

This really wasn't supposed to take this much effort. Seriously, I'm somewhat surprised to be looking this hard for the stupid little buggers, or having to ask. I thought for sure someone would know off the top of their head. "Oh yeah, these worked perfectly, here's a link".....

I will most likely just make some stock that I can cut into shorter lengths for the T-slots in this sliding table.

[Rich Markiewicz]

Hey Michael - yeah, another one of those little things that take up too much time [!]
McMaster-Carr has t-nuts and weld-nuts, but haven't seen any with alignment ball.
https://www.mcmaster.com/tee-nuts/low-profile-narrow-base-weld-nuts-with-projections/

As said above, Ramon Valdez may have something that works. Good luck...

[Rich Markiewicz]

80/20 may have something that would work.

https://8020.net/fasteningmethods/hardware/tnuts/rollin/rollintnutwithballspring.html

[Robyn Horton]

How would either Phenolic or HDPE with these 5/16" X 18 Threaded inserts for the threads ?

https://www.amazon.com/Z-Externally-Threaded-Internal-External/dp/B002WC8STY/ref=sr_1_29?crid=LOIZ512SRB5J&keywords=E-Z+LOK+400-5+Threaded+Inserts+for+Wood%2C+Installation+Kit%2C +Brass%2C+Includes+5%2F16-18+Knife+Thread+Inserts+%285%29%2C+Drill%2C+Instal lation+Tool&qid=1673195754&sprefix=e-z+lok+400-5+threaded+inserts+for+wood%2C+installation+kit%2C +brass%2C+includes+5%2F16-18+knife+thread+inserts+5+%2C+drill%2C+installatio n+tool%2Caps%2C100&sr=8-29

or these in Brass
https://www.amazon.ca/Z-LOK-Threaded-Inserts-Installation/dp/B015CAPNNQ/ref=sr_1_3?crid=21RAO79KVIUJQ&keywords=E-Z+LOK+400-5+Threaded+Inserts+for+Wood%2C+Installation+Kit%2C +Stainless+%2C+Includes+5%2F16-18+Knife+Thread+Inserts+%285%29%2C+Drill%2C+Instal lation+Tool&qid=1673194240&s=industrial&sprefix=e-z+lok+400-5+threaded+inserts+for+wood%2C+installation+kit%2C +stainless+%2C+includes+5%2F16-18+knife+thread+inserts+5+%2C+drill%2C+installatio n+tool%2Cindustrial%2C120&sr=1-3

[Dan Friedrichs]

A few dumb questions related to this:

1) What's the purpose of the "alignment ball" - does it go "up" or "down", and what does it get you?

2) I've noticed in the T-slot there is a hex-cap screw near one end that prevents easy sliding of the T-nut unless it's held tight to the top of the slot (so it clears the screw head). It occurs to me that I've fought around this for years without considering what that screw is for or if it even needs to be there. Anyone know?

3) Given the length of most sliders, would drop-in nuts be more useful?

[Steve Wurster]

A few dumb questions related to this:

1) What's the purpose of the "alignment ball" - does it go "up" or "down", and what does it get you?

2) I've noticed in the T-slot there is a hex-cap screw near one end that prevents easy sliding of the T-nut unless it's held tight to the top of the slot (so it clears the screw head). It occurs to me that I've fought around this for years without considering what that screw is for or if it even needs to be there. Anyone know?

3) Given the length of most sliders, would drop-in nuts be more useful?

1. I think the alignment ball only really helps with the 80-20 stuff or equivalent, and even then I'm not sure. I don't think it serves any purpose in this scenario.

2. That hex-cap screw is the stop for the short crosscut fence. You bring the fence in from the "front" and bump it up against the stop and then use the 90 degree stop on the carriage itself to achieve fence alignment. People who only use the outrigger-based fence will probably remove that hex-cap screw as it serves no purpose for them.

3. I have yet to find anything that really works well in that scenario. That's why I just have a set of threaded blocks sitting in the slot all the time. They have just enough weight / friction to not fly out on their own. And if I need to clamp something in the section before the hex-cap screw then I have an extra threaded block for that purpose; I can just slide it in when needed.

[Michael Drew]

I want to drop a jig onto the slider, as most do, but to also have the option to "lock it down" anywhere on the length of the table. There are other clamping fixtures that I think would be handy if I could do this. Having a T-nut that is somewhat snug in the T-slot, and I don't have to spend time fishing for, but could easily reposition in anywhere I want with little effort is appealing to me. Over the decades of using tools, the ones that get worn out are the ones that are super handy and easy to use. The ones that sit in drawer are the ones that aggravate me - even if they are the 'best' tool in the shop for the job at hand.

These little nuts for the extruded stuff are super handy. They'd be equally handy in the above application for my slider table - if I could one that fit correctly.

Here's couple pics to help the visual aspect of what I'm talking about.

This is some extrusion with one of these nuts fit to the slot. You can see how the ball holds it up and centered. Easy to get a fastener into, and it won't slide around on it's own.

493045

End view of the slider.

493043

This is a section of the aforementioned HDPE that I got from Felder. I had to run it threw the planner to reduce the height of raised portion that fits the slider slot on my Hammer. It extended above the table height about 25 thou, and prevented the phenolic plate from securing tightly. This is for my Kreg auto clamp.

493044

And of course my pictures are rotated......

[Dan Friedrichs]

Thanks, Steve! I don't even own a short fence, so I've been fighting that hex nut for no reason....

[Steve Wurster]

Thanks, Steve! I don't even own a short fence, so I've been fighting that hex nut for no reason....

No problem. Feel free to remove that!

[Steve Wurster]

I want to drop a jig onto the slider, as most do, but to also have the option to "lock it down" anywhere on the length of the table. There are other clamping fixtures that I think would be handy if I could do this. Having a T-nut that is somewhat snug in the T-slot, and I don't have to spend time fishing for, but could easily reposition in anywhere I want with little effort is appealing to me. Over the decades of using tools, the ones that get worn out are the ones that are super handy and easy to use. The ones that sit in drawer are the ones that aggravate me - even if they are the 'best' tool in the shop for the job at hand.

These little nuts for the extruded stuff are super handy. They'd be equally handy in the above application for my slider table - if I could one that fit correctly.

...

This is some extrusion with one of these nuts fit to the slot. You can see how the ball holds it up and centered. Easy to get a fastener into, and it won't slide around on it's own.

...


Oh, I see how the ball works now. Yeah, that design won't really work on the slider unless the blocks are much larger. When I did use those on the slider I had them upside down compared to that picture, and the tapered aspect let them self-center in the slot. But due to the size of them compared to the slot they move around too easily and aren't lined-up by default.

As I noted before I use tapped blocks instead. The first picture shows one of the aluminum ones I bought from Ramon Valdez, next to one I made in the shop. I have 6 of these total (2 from Ramon) and leave 5 of them in the slot full-time with the 6th one sitting out in case I need it at the way front of the wagon in front of where the crosscut fence goes.

493053

Here's what the aluminum one looks like from the end. It's a "snug" fit in that it doesn't move about much on its own, but a simple push with a finger and it will easily slide down the slot. The wooden ones I made are nearly identical in size.

493054

And here's what it looks like with a Kreg Automaxx clamp and accompanying clamp base "bolted" down to the slider. The clamp and base are bolted together all the time using the bolt that comes with the clamp. I just place the unit above one of the blocks and drop the knurled bolt over top and turn until it locks. The aluminum blocks came with 2 of the pictured bolts but did not come with that nut. That nut is not threaded to the bolt; it's just there as a spacer. This setup works well although the bolts do tend to loosen a little bit after releasing the clamp.

493055

[Chris Parks]

I just wanted a few for use with jigs, like a F&F. I want to leave them in the slider T-slot, but they would be self centering, and somewhat snug fitting so I didn't have to hunt for them when screwing a faster to them, through the jig or device I happen to be using.

This really wasn't supposed to take this much effort. Seriously, I'm somewhat surprised to be looking this hard for the stupid little buggers, or having to ask. I thought for sure someone would know off the top of their head. "Oh yeah, these worked perfectly, here's a link".....

I will most likely just make some stock that I can cut into shorter lengths for the T-slots in this sliding table.

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

[Mike Wilkins]

Thanks for this thread gentlemen. I am looking for something similar for my Hammer F3 shaper to make some jigs. I have some HDPE material that I can machine and thread to make some T-nuts for both the top channel and the side. Time to get busy.

[Jim Becker]

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

Chris brings up a good point. One side of the F&F, usually the right, really cannot be clamped, either. It has to be able to slide laterally so one can position the material between the two elements and then is brought tight to the workpiece with one's hand to "clamp" the workpiece as it's pushed through the cut.

I have a different brand machine, but I had no problem machining some scrap oak to fit the tee slot in the wagon to be use with jigs and fixtures as necessary. I went the simple flanged threaded insert route for when clamping action is required.

[Michael Drew]

I like a lot of others here have been using an F&F jig for many years and it works by not clamping it to the table. I would be interested in what jigs others clamp to the table.

I want the ability to position the forward piece of the jig anywhere I want on the table, verse being forced to use the foward fence. The runner in the forward piece will be segregated. I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OokHlPj4vqQ&t=356s

He has a Felder saw. Uses one of these nuts I'm trying to find, but the Felder has a different sized T-slot than Hammer.

[Steve Wurster]

I want the ability to position the forward piece of the jig anywhere I want on the table, verse being forced to use the foward fence. The runner in the forward piece will be segregated. I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OokHlPj4vqQ&t=356s

He has a Felder saw. Uses one of these nuts I'm trying to find, but the Felder has a different sized T-slot than Hammer.

I do the same with mine, although I can't remember if I got the idea from the Extreme Woodworker or not (been a while since I watched that video and I just redid my F&F very recently).

493115

[Michael Drew]

You used an Incra fence for your jig? I'm still musing over using different extrusions that I have on hand.

[Steve Wurster]

You used an Incra fence for your jig? I'm still musing over using different extrusions that I have on hand.

Yep, I've got 2 pieces of "Incra Track" with 1/32"-based teeth, one on each piece of the F&F (not to be confused with their T-Track that has no teeth). There's no flip stop capability with this method, but the instant repeatability means I don't really need a flip stop. My original F&F jig only used T-track and homemade non-flip stops, but every iteration since then used the Incra setup.

That weird looking gap at the end of the fence is there so the fence doesn't bump into the guard.

[Michael Drew]

That's a great idea, Steve. I'll look into it.

I think I found some nuts that will work. Not the 'roll in' type, but I think I can make them work. Ordered a few different sizes. When they show up, I'll update this thread with a full product description and link, if they work out well.

[Ed Mitchell]

I think I found some nuts that will work. Not the 'roll in' type, but I think I can make them work. Ordered a few different sizes. When they show up, I'll update this thread with a full product description and link, if they work out well.

I'll be interested in your results!

[Tom Bussey]

Can you post a drawing or something. I can possibly make you some. I do nor understand alignment ball so I would have to see where it is in the tee nut. I am in the process of making some to fit my Saw Stop

493134

[Chris Parks]

Here are a couple of shots showing my F&F set up and the shortcomings of the Incra equipped F&F jig. Using the short fence shown which can be cut off the long rip fence if it is not a combination machine is way quicker and far cheaper. I hardly ever use the full length rip fence prefering to rip on the slider where possible as that gives the best result. I guess I use the full length rip fence a few times a year and that lives on a shelf between those few times. Having it pulled back as it should be if ripping is a proper pain in the backside as I was always having to dodge the overhang.


Showing my day to day user F&F jig holding a piece to be cut at the dimension needed set on the rip fence.
493140



The Incra showing the minimum clamping distance. I have to set the dimension twice on the Incra which is a pain and since I built it many years ago it has never been used and you see how much dust and dirt is on it as proof of that.

493141


The same piece can be held using the plain Jane F&F jig
493145

I have never seen any advantage in having flip stops and measuring on the F&F jig but everyone works differently, make a plain one which incurs no cost and use it before deciding if all the add ons are really needed. I have decided to sell the Incra version as it is never used and I wish I had not spent the money building it.

[Steve Wurster]

The Incra showing the minimum clamping distance. I have to set the dimension twice on the Incra which is a pain and since I built it many years ago it has never been used and you see how much dust and dirt is on it as proof of that.


The minimum clamping width is the same on both your jigs; just remove the stops from the Incra one.

You at least are using the miter fence-style Incra tracks there, where the locking knob is in the back. I'm using the Incra Track where the locking knobs for the stop are in the front, which means the minimum clamping width when using the stops is even larger than yours. But I can always remove one or both if needed.

I have no complaints about having to set the dimension twice, either, as setting it is very quick with the Incra design.

[Chris Parks]

If I remove the flip stops what is the point.

[Steve Wurster]

If I remove the flip stops what is the point.

The point is that with the Incra setup you have very quick 1mm precision. If you need to cut something that is narrower than the minimum width between them then you can remove one or both flip stops, thus imitating your "Plain Jane" setup for those probably-not-so-common scenarios. Heck, you don't even need to remove the stops since they can flip right up and out of the way. I'm forced to remove mine in those situations due to their design.

[Chris Parks]

I don't get it, why go to all the trouble of buying and making it if the flip stops have to be removed for full utilisation and then the measuring system no longer works. Using the fence as the stop is simpler and with a DRO on the fence it gives the same result. I doubt the DRO costs any more than the Incra fence system and most probably less and it is way more accurate than 1 mm if that is needed. Apart from the accuracy a DRO provides I value it more for the repeatability as well which the Incra fence system also provides. We all work in different ways but the thing I found when I changed from a cabinet saw to a slider was all my thinking had to change and this was one of many changes. A lot of users still do all their ripping using a rip fence when the sliding table does a far better and more accurate job. If the way I use the saw and the F&F jig does not suit you so be it as obviously what I do doesn't work for you.

[Derek Cohen]

Michael, I'm getting back to this thread as I have a K3, with several fixtures, and can show you what was used to secure them on the slider.

As I see it, there are three connectors for the slider track. Note that my K3 has a 1250mm slider and the crosscut fence is at the near end.

1. Straight ...

https://i.postimg.cc/t460gGBP/4.jpg

This fits into the top of the track.

2. Aluminium insert ...

https://i.postimg.cc/RCPxsR33/1.jpg

Now these do not need to fit the top of the insert. I found available ones and filed the down to fit the lower section of the track ...

https://i.postimg.cc/xTcDWzH6/2.jpg

3. And the moulded version from Felder (which I mentioned earlier on) ..

https://i.postimg.cc/02FRxy0P/3.jpg

These fit the upper section of the track, not the lower section ...

https://i.postimg.cc/TPvzLNss/6.jpg

And they come in long lengths ...

https://i.postimg.cc/1t9bMnsc/7.jpg

I use the straight ones in a parallel guide ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/ParallelGuideForK3Slider_html_1fdf2a4a.jpg

The guide is positioned at the far end and also fixed with a bolt into an aluminium insert. At the fence end it is positioned and attached by another aluminium insert. These nuts are left in the track.

This funny looking fence is a Reversed F&F. Because the crosscut fence is at the near end, the F&F needs to push into the fence. To work, it also needs to lock down. Under the F&F is this arrangement, a straight guide (the moulder insert) and a locking aluminium insert ...

https://i.postimg.cc/63YgPWQs/8.jpg

Now do not forget that there is another track on the slider, down the side ...

https://i.postimg.cc/br5Mzmb3/10.jpg

I built this mitre fixture (coping the Felder version) ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/MitreFixtureForK3_html_m2d633729.jpg

Underneath, it is connected to both tracks, the top track to position and the side track to adjust ..


https://i.postimg.cc/63vzrBGL/11.jpg

The side track is also used for this parallel guide ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered%20Tools%20and%20Machinery/HammerK3ParallelGuide2_html_m35b96d5f.jpg

.. using aluminium inserts.

Nothing very fancy, but it is all pretty solid and works.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Steve Wurster]

I don't get it, why go to all the trouble of buying and making it if the flip stops have to be removed for full utilisation and then the measuring system no longer works. Using the fence as the stop is simpler and with a DRO on the fence it gives the same result. I doubt the DRO costs any more than the Incra fence system and most probably less and it is way more accurate than 1 mm if that is needed. Apart from the accuracy a DRO provides I value it more for the repeatability as well which the Incra fence system also provides. We all work in different ways but the thing I found when I changed from a cabinet saw to a slider was all my thinking had to change and this was one of many changes. A lot of users still do all their ripping using a rip fence when the sliding table does a far better and more accurate job. If the way I use the saw and the F&F jig does not suit you so be it as obviously what I do doesn't work for you.

Ah, right, I had forgotten that in your previous post you mentioned how you use the fence for a lot of your operations. I basically only use the fence for ripping pieces longer than the table, or as a stop block for when the "keeper" piece is on the right side of the blade (in which case I pull the fence forward; you have a short fence for that). Your use of the DRO means you don't need measuring on the left side of the blade when using the F&F, whereas I use the scales and stops on my F&F for that purpose. I've never had DRO on the fence side so my way of operating is "limited" in that respect.

[Steve Wurster]

Michael, I'm getting back to this thread as I have a K3, with several fixtures, and can show you what was used to secure them on the slider.

As I see it, there are three connectors for the slider track. Note that my K3 has a 1250mm slider and the crosscut fence is at the near end.

1. Straight ...
2. Aluminium insert ...
3. And the moulded version from Felder (which I mentioned earlier on) ..


The first style can be dropped in anywhere but doesn't lock, while the second and third style can lock but must be slid in from one end. I think the OP wants something that combines both.

Options for that are:
1. Something like the ones with the ball catch. Those specific ones can be dropped in and then used, but alignment of them is not automatic.
2. Drop-in T-nuts that are the width of the top section of the slot. They drop in parallel to the slot and then turn and catch against the lower section when you tighten the bolt. I never found ones that would suit my needs and truly fit the slot size of the K3. I did make one out of wood at one point but they are so small they are fragile.

For years I used all 3 of Derek's options. The first style worked for my F&F jig (and still does, minus any locking). For clamps and jigs that need to lock I just slid them in from the end. That becomes annoying with a 2000mm table, and even more so if you've already got some pieces setup on the slider and suddenly realize you want to clamp something. So more recently I went with the "leave blocks in the track all the time" method, and that seems to work for me.

And does Felder still sell their track? Last I looked I didn't see it on their online shop, but I don't have the part number for it so can't just look it up.

[Michael Drew]

Can you post a drawing or something. I can possibly make you some. I do nor understand alignment ball so I would have to see where it is in the tee nut. I am in the process of making some to fit my Saw Stop

493134

Thanks for the offer Tom. I did post some pics earlier. The ball is for applying some upward pressure on the nut, forcing it to sit flush with slot. I have given up on finding a T-nut that has one, that would fit this machine.

I think I found a solution, but will reserve final thoughts till I have them in hand. I have found that dimensional drawings on Amazon or eBay can sometimes be a bit deceiving.

I bet you could make a little money machining aluminum stock to fit these machines. Maybe drill and tap them every couple of inches, then they could be cut to desired length.

[Michael Drew]

Derek,

Appreciate the pictures and jig ideas. I had already bookmarked your site, and had planned to steal some of your designs.

I actually have the same three sections of Felder track. It is sold as a kit for making a table extension. The part name/number is not handy at the moment. I believe it is listed in German. Problem I had with using it, is it sit proud of the table. I had to run it through the planer to knock down the height a few thousands. I also re-drilled and tapped all the holes to 5/16". I think it'll come in handy for some things, others - not so much.

[Thomas Crawford]

I know I can make them. I just want to buy a few of the little buggers that are made from aluminum or stainless. I actually have a couple lengths of plastic stuff from Felder that is part of a kit to build a wagon extender. The fit is OK, but I had to run them through a planer to fit the Hammer T slot properly.

This is what I'm looking for.... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008MQ9PGE/?coliid=II62WHPMO76FB&colid=3R2MV4DPOS5L7&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it_im


https://www.faz-store.net/products/15fa3536

$1.09 each

[Rod Sheridan]

I'm trying to source a handful of T-nuts for my K3. Preferable the kind that has the little alignment ball, and 5/16" thread, as I have an assortment of jig parts and stuff for 5/16 x 18. Didn't expect this to be this difficult to find....

The slot width at the top is .438
Total depth is .770
Total width at the slot bottom is .870

Hi Michael, I just drill and tap 3/4” X 3/8” cold rolled steel flat bar.

Regards, Rod