Pen Finishes...

[Corey Hallagan]

What are you guys doing for pen finishes? Most of you just apply a friction polish and call it good or are any of you CA experts, lacquer etc. Just cuirous, trying to figure out what I want to do to my pens, but seems like if you want to sell nice pens, people want a real shiney long lasting finish.

Corey

[Kirk (KC) Constable]

There are a couple 'pen making forums' (search hint) that discuss this very thing at great length. Lots of opinions...

I wet sand with CA, then spray DEFT, then use the HUT stick. The HUT leaves a very 'silky feeling' surface.

KC

[John Hart]

Corey,
KC is right...there are tons of opinions on this....and it's difficult to grab a hold of any one of them. I think the best solid advice that I've seen so far is "Spend lot's of time preparing your surface prior to finish". As no finish is worth spit without a good surface.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys, I have been to the pen forums etc. Some beautiful pens there. KC, I have seen many of your pens there. I was just curious as to what you guys are doing on your pens.

Thanks,
Corey

[David Fried]

Corey,

I use sanding sealer/friction polish/renaissance wax usually. I let the polish set up for 24 hours before touching it. I occasionally use the blo/ca finish.

Dave Fried

[Mike Vickery]

I usually use ca though I have been playing with deft.
short method
after sanding blank to 600 seal and fill grain with thin ca.
After drying sand back to wood and micromesh through all grits
apply 2 coat of Medium CA
let cure over night then micromesh through all grits.

I highly recomend Micro Mesh other than that any high quality finsh should look great if your wood is prepared sufficiently and you let your finsh cure prior to rubbing out.

[Ron Ainge]

Corey

I make corn cob pens to give away as presents to folks who do things I think that is a little beyond what they have to do. As you can imagine they are all supprised to get something for doing what they think is there job, but I may think that they do it a bit better than they have too. I use a lot of CA to both stabilize and finish my pens. I start out using thick gap filling CA and finish with the thin stuff followed with a hard was coating. If you want a full explanation of my proceedure just email me.

[Richard Gillespie]

Corey;

You ask 100 pen turners how they finish their pens and you'll get 99 answers. I stumbled onto something that works for me. I sand to 2000 grit. I then use tripoli paste to burnish the wood. After that I wipe it down with DNA.

I put a drop of thin CA glue on a paper towel, and with the lathe running at a slow speed, apply that to the wood. It usually takes two or three drops to completely cover the wood. Let dry and sand smooth with 2000 grit paper. Again wipe with DNA and do another cycle with CA glue and sanding. Wipe with DNA and add gloss lacquer to a paper towel and do a friction polish with that. I was very pleased with the improvement in the finish on the last two pens I did with that process.

[John Hart]

Corey;

You ask 100 pen turners how they finish their pens and you'll get 99 answers. I stumbled onto something that works for me. I sand to 2000 grit. I then use tripoli paste to burnish the wood. After that I wipe it down with DNA.

I put a drop of thin CA glue on a paper towel, and with the lathe running at a slow speed, apply that to the wood. It usually takes two or three drops to completely cover the wood. Let dry and sand smooth with 2000 grit paper. Again wipe with DNA and do another cycle with CA glue and sanding. Wipe with DNA and add gloss lacquer to a paper towel and do a friction polish with that. I was very pleased with the improvement in the finish on the last two pens I did with that process.

Cool Process Richard. I don't think I've seen this one yet. But it sounds really intriguing...especially the part with the Lacquer Friction Finish (hic)...I like lacquer! :)
I think I'll give it a try this weekend.

[Raymond Overman]

Here's the steps I use:

1) Finish turn to bushing rubbing the bevel of spindle gouge for clean cuts.
2) Sand to 400 grit.
3) Using a piece of wax paper (hang a roll in your shop) I apply thin CA to all wood surfaces. Allow to dry (about 15-20 seconds)
4) Sand starting with 400 then 1200 though 12000 micro mesh stopping between each grit to sand the length of the pen as well.
5) Clean with paper towel / DNA
6) Using wax paper apply 2 coats of thick CA allowing it to dry between coats.
7) Sand starting with 400 then 1200 though 12000 micro mesh stopping between each grit to sand the length of the pen as well.
8) Apply a coat of shellawax, carnauba wax, or other friction polish with a paper towel.

For paper towels brown kind that you find in public bathrooms. They don't leave fibers in the finish. For CA finishes to work you need to use fairly fresh CA. I've found that older CA doesn't cure as evenly and may not finish as easily. I have also known people to use EEE Polish with excellent results.

[Bob Noles]

Raymond,

I use the EEE friction polish and really do like it. It seems to save a lot of steps in the process and I think looks really good on the end result.

[Corey Hallagan]

Thanks guys. I like the nice shiney glossy finishes I have seen on some of the pen forums. I dont know if my lungs can handle the CA and Lacquer finish applicatins though, I have abused them for to many years with the smokes. The first one I turn will have a natural finish and I will take it to work with me and use it to see how long it takes for the natural patina to evolve.
John, I purchased the 150 - 600 wet dry sand paper set and also picked up a set of micro mesh. One thing I have learned is that as you say, the sanding is most important above any thing else. I may try a simple surface film of wiping varnish as well. We will see I guess.
Corey

[Bob Noles]

Thanks guys. I like the nice shiney glossy finishes I have seen on some of the pen forums. I dont know if my lungs can handle the CA and Lacquer finish applicatins though, I have abused them for to many years with the smokes. The first one I turn will have a natural finish and I will take it to work with me and use it to see how long it takes for the natural patina to evolve.
John, I purchased the 150 - 600 wet dry sand paper set and also picked up a set of micro mesh. One thing I have learned is that as you say, the sanding is most important above any thing else. I may try a simple surface film of wiping varnish as well. We will see I guess.
Corey

Corey,

I want to share some of my early experiences for your consideration.

First a small gloat..... I had my last smoke 35 days ago.... never too late to quit :)

I don't think the CA or the laquer uses on small projects like a few pens at a time will emit anything harmful for you or at least it has not bothered me at this point.

The sanding is what you need to be aware of as harmful. Be SURE you wear a good quality dust mask when doing those sanding steps. I have sanded all my life with a variety of mechanical means, but I don't think I have encountered anything like sanding on a lathe. That little rascal can really spew a cloud. I am researching a good way to set up dust collection on my lathe at the point of where SP meets project which should help a lot.

Be careful, have fun and keep spinning ole buddy.

[Corey Hallagan]

Bob, that is excellent. I am working towards it. I have to quit. The sanding does concern me. I am thinking about setting up the big gulp dust hood around the lathe. I want to get a good mask and filter for the shop to use.

Corey

[Richard Gillespie]

Bob, that is excellent. I am working towards it. I have to quit. The sanding does concern me. I am thinking about setting up the big gulp dust hood around the lathe. I want to get a good mask and filter for the shop to use.

Corey

Being cheap, I'm using the large floor attachment hooked to a shop vac hose, hooked to my DC. This is mounted on the back side of my lathe. It does a good job of taking care of some of the chips, the sanding dust and much of the fumes. The CA glue I use is odorless but the lacquer isn't.

[Corey Hallagan]

Good idea Richard! I didn't realize they made odorless CA, does that mean it also doesn't burn the eyes?

Corey

[Richard Gillespie]

Good idea Richard! I didn't realize they made odorless CA, does that mean it also doesn't burn the eyes?

Corey

This is the first CA glue I've ever bought. I didn't know that it was suppose to have an odor. I bought it at Lowe's. It's LOCTITE SUPER GLUE. It doesn't have an odor that I can detect and doesn't bother my eyes. The lacquer I use has a strong odor.

[Corey Hallagan]

Richard, I used super glues for years in hobby work and most of them when using in large amounts fumed up badley and would burn my eyes if I worked to close to it. Some has more fumes than others but anymore they all seem to bother me. Lacquer is very very strong odored and should be used with very good ventilation.

Corey

[Bob Noles]

Corey,

I just found a "big gulp" at HF for $9.99 and place an order for it. :) let me know if you need the link.



Bob, that is excellent. I am working towards it. I have to quit. The sanding does concern me. I am thinking about setting up the big gulp dust hood around the lathe. I want to get a good mask and filter for the shop to use.

Corey

[Corey Hallagan]

Bob, gives me an excuse to pick up a couple other elcheapo things I have been wanting to pick up at HF! I should be able to find it, will let you know!

Corey

[John Hart]

I used the generic CA that you can find most anywhere and was engulfed in fumes regularly. It was pretty horrible. Then, just for the heck of it, I bought a bottle of the Loctite brand and found it was fumeless. Very impressive. I recommend it highly.

[Corey Hallagan]

I guess I need to pick up some Locktite and give CA a shot! Thanks John & Richard!

Corey

[Bernie Weishapl]

Corey I also use Loctite CA. It doesn't have any fumes and doesn't burn my eyes at all. One other thing I did before I got my DC hooked up to a hood was put a small I think 6" fan to blow the dust and CA fumes away from me. I had it sitting just a little higher than my headstock blowing down the length of the lathe. Worked nicely.

I also got some of that Mylands Finish and I think with PSI's EEE this will be a good combo from what I can see. The guy at Woodcraft gave me a small amount to try and from what I did tonight it is way better than the HUT's.

[Bob Noles]

Corey,

I guess I forgot to mention that Locktite is the one I am using also and may be the reason for no fumes.

[Thomas Wyatt]

Depending on the wood. I generally do a CA finish. But its up to you. A friction finish will wear off after a little time. CA finishes tend to last longer yet they dont give you the natural feel of wood.

Over all its your call. I have seen some beautiful pens done with all types of finishes.