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View Full Version : Sommerfeld Phenolic Router Table Top on Craftsman 22124



Mike Goetzke
01-26-2006, 9:51 PM
Thanks for some help here, I got my $99 phenolic router table top from Sommerfeld today. I was either going to build it into a router station (that I may not have room for in my garage shop) or cut the width down to fit my 27” wide Craftsman 22124.

From the pictures below it looks like I will be able to attach it to my TS without cutting it by letting it overhang the back of the saw by 4".


This is what came in the box (note - the color is almost a perfect match to the fence/rails):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/IMG_1515_1_1_1.jpg

I have the front fence tube shifted 10" to the right. If I butt the new top up to the cast iron wing I still get the additional 10" rip capacity to the right over the new table.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/IMG_1512_4_1_1.jpg


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/IMG_1514_3_1_1.jpg

This is the right rear of the saw. I have the router table flipped over. It looks like I can mill a similar slot like the one built into the table so it clears the rear angle iron of the saw.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v212/mbg/IMG_1516_2_1_1.jpg

I was thinking of bolting a section of angle iron to the front and rear support iron angles to support the table.

With this mod I can always remove the router top and build it into a station later without modifying the length.

Looking for comments/help on how to improve this design and how to attach the top to the angle iron supports (bolt through the top?).

Thanks,

Mike

Vaughn McMillan
01-27-2006, 4:20 AM
Mike, I've successfully bolted my RT top through the top to attach it to the angle iron below. There are pics of my home-made setup where I do exactly that partway through this thread:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=22947

I can't answer your questions about cutting the slot to clear the rear rail, since I don't have the same type of fence and rail, but as you can see in the other thread, I also used some extra angle iron (aluminum) to support the table. Seems to me your idea should work, but I've been wrong before. ;-)

HTH -

- Vaughn

Tony Falotico
01-27-2006, 6:24 AM
That's how I did mine Mike, cut a dado slot for the rail upright to fit into, then shim underneath between the horizontal edge of the rail and the bottom of the top for support.