RAS dust collection

[Paul Schaefer]

I'm running a Clearvue with 6" ducting in my shop. I'm finally getting around to hooking up my RAS, a DeWalt MBF. On Pentz's website, he shows a large collector off the back of the saw, and a smaller flex hose Y-ing off of that to the blade guard. I think the dimensions are 5" and 2" for the two collectors on his diagram.

The MBF's port is only about 1.25", which according to Pentz is just too small to be very useful. So here are the options I'm considering, and I'd like to know what the Creek thinks:

1. Block off the port on the guard and just put in 6" collection behind the saw blade. By far the easiest option

2. Run 6" collection behind the saw blade, and make a Y-connection that runs a little 1.25" hose to the blade guard port. Harder, and I'm not sure it's worth the effort for so little air flow off the guard.

3. Use a Clearvue splitter that goes from a 6" to two 4" connections. Fabricate a new blade guard, probably out of plexiglass or lexan, and run a 4" flex line to that and a 4" line to behind the saw blade.

[Chris Parks]

Build a proper shroud and vent from the top, I will post photos later. There is an old YT video on making it using a plenum chamber arrangement.

[Ed Aumiller]

Option #1...
Put plywood baffles on each side to direct dust to hose... go to lowes/HD get a 6" Galvanized Steel Straight Stack Duct Boot (https://www.lowes.com/pd/IMPERIAL-10-in-x-3-25-in-x-6-in-Galvanized-Steel-Straight-Stack-Duct-Boot/1000237099) to put between baffles... and a piece of plywood on top/bottom.. works great...

[Chris Parks]

This is using a Clearvue though I suspect it is a Max and not an 1800.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8AIITfs51PE&ab_channel=TurnTex

[Andrew More]

#4 Build a custom shroud attached to the saw blade.
#5 Build a box like a miter saw
#6 Attach a shop vac to the existing 1 1/2" port.

Bill is correct about a normal DC to the port, but a Shop Vac with a HEPA filter should do okay.

[Jim Becker]

Paul, Frank Howarth has some good video on the 'Tube of how he set up dust collection for his RAS (plural in fact). You might find value in seeing what he did in addition to the suggestions made here in this thread. RAS and miter saws are difficult to collect from just due to their nature. If you never move them off 90º, it's easier, but still a challenge because of the "splash" of material that erupts from the blade while cutting.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have a little tent that looks a bit like a conestoga wagon cover. It funnels into a wooden box. It does a very good job for general use. When I have a big project or cut a bunch of dados, I uncover the port on the blade guard and hook up a shop vac. Eventually I want to put a 4 inch D.C. connection in the dust box.

[Rick Potter]

This works very well for me. Oneida 3HP gorilla, with 8" leading to 6" branch, with the visible wye which is 6" to 4" and 2 1/2" short hoses. Not visible is the rear of the enclosure...the wooden sides are curved at the bottom with a sheet metal back which forms a simple ramp at the bottom corner to eliminate clogs at the bottom corner. Very simplistic.


492731

[Mike Wilkins]

Jim responded exactly what I was going to suggest. Frank Howarth (Frankmakes) has a cool set-up for his side-by-side RAS.

[Paul Schaefer]

Jim and Mike - Howarth's setup looks both nice and effective, but fairly labor intensive. Rick's pic looks like a simpler version of the same concept, and I'm guessing it would be pretty effective.

Ed - What you're describing sound like it would functionally be very similar to what Rick Potter has built, and I'm leaning that way.

Andrew - Don't really want to be dealing with a shop vac and DC running at the same time (your #6) A box around the saw (your #5) seems to be getting the DC's air movement too far from the point of dust collection, so I may go with your #4, custom guard over the blade with a bigger dust collection port.

Rick - What you've pictured is a LOT like what I was leaning towards when I posted this. Does that 2.5" hose neck down even more at the blade guard? How big is the port on the guard? Do you find using that port to be worth the effort, as compared to eliminating the wye and just coming down to your back-of-blade collection area with a 6" hose? Ddi you ever try any other solutions before coming up with this?

Thanks,

Paul

[Rick Potter]

Hi Paul,

Yes, that 2 1/2" shop vac hose necks down to 1 1/2 at the top of the guard, that adaptor goes directly into the original rubber elbow that came with the saw. I know it is the same size as a Craftsman saw, as I had one previously. I just measured the rubber elbow and the ID is 1 1/2, which makes the metal port on the guard even smaller.

It helps using it, mostly for the bounce back that goes back into the blade guard if the main port doesn't catch it all. You can tell the difference if it comes off. That is why mine is cinched down really tight. If you click on the pic and enlarge it, you can see the rubber elbow.

Yes, I have tried several other setups. Used a 4" and a 6" furnace boot which helped, but was always kinda in the way when I wanted to raise the blade. If you look closely you see that the wooden sides of the box come all the way forward to the back of the fence. There is also a lid on the top, cut to allow the blade guard to travel. These things also help keep blowback down.

I cobbled up this setup about 15 years ago, and have been happy with it. Note that I use the RAS for 90 degree cuts, and the saw is always set up this way. I don't have any idea what percentage of dust it gets, but in normal use, there is hardly any sawdust that escapes. Of course, if I shave a blade width off, it doesn't catch much...just like at the TS. As long as it is a through cut I have no plans to improve on it.

There are a couple other things I like. The saw is ON a bench, with the fence extending a bit over 4' to the left of the blade, and I can use the area under the extension to put cutoffs on. The slot for the blade leaf is great for extra safety, as it doesn't have to be pulled up and over the fence. The miter saw at the other side is aligned with the RAS for long pieces with both saws. There is a 4" DC port above the miter saw, which didn't work well at all. Beyond the miter saw is a Dust Deputy/Shop Vac setup. It is there just for the miter saw, and works much better than the DC. You may also see the red zero clearance insert for the RAS. I made several when I set up the saw, and the first one lasted over 10 years. The one on the saw is several years old. It is held on by several small brass screws.

EDIT: Forgot...the Dust Gorilla DC is in a separate building, and is more than 35' of pipe away from the RAS. First 20' is 8", then 6" until just above the Wye shown in the pic.

[Jim Becker]

The aspect that sets Frank's dust collection apart from many to my eyes is how he is directing the air flow. Quite often that the key to getting just a little better collection from tools that are difficult to work with relative to dust collection.

[Tom M King]

Mine is very simple, and very effective. This on the one that only gets used for 90 degree cuts. The trick is to move a lot of air. The other RAS gets moved outside to use.

[Paul Schaefer]

The aspect that sets Frank's dust collection apart from many to my eyes is how he is directing the air flow. Quite often that the key to getting just a little better collection from tools that are difficult to work with relative to dust collection.

Jim, by directing the air flow, are you referring to the lattice of slats that make up the combined fence/dust collector inlet? I was thinking about doing a simpler version of that by boring a series of holes in my fence so the air could flow through. His lattice looks like it gives more surface area to the airflow, though. It is striking that he says the collection is good enough he doesn't bother hooking up the port on the blade guard.

[Paul Schaefer]

Rick, the OD of the port on my blade guard is 1.5", so the same size as yours. Based on what you say about it making a difference, I think I'll go ahead and use it. Saves me the effort and expense of building a custom guard, but still gets some collection closer to the blade. My duct run is only about 10 or 12 feet, so I should have less airflow loss to friction. I think I'll try to figure out some way to allow airflow through the fence as part of the plan.

[Jim Becker]

Paul, I'd have to go back and watch the video(s) again. I just remember thinking it was a neat solution. (I don't have a RAS) Holes would work just fine, IMHO. There's stil enough "fence" there to do what a fence does while allowing whatever level of air flow you can achieve from the holes happen.

[Rick Potter]

Sounds good Paul. Shoot some pics when you finish.