Wax/oil interactions

[Bernie Kopfer]

The other day I was applying Scratch Freee to a turning and noticed that it left a nice smooth shiny surface. Obviously the wax in the product is doing its job. But then I was going to apply Odie’s oil as the final finish coat. It occurred to me that the pores in the wood were already filled with wax and oil from the Scratch Freee and that that Odies oil would not be able to penetrate and get to the raw wood and soak in like an oil should. Perhaps I’m missing something (SLOML insists that is true) but I’m wondering if for oil to be effective it must be applied prior to any wax.

[Adam Wager]

Curious to see the answers here. I have only used scratch free when using a wax top coat, but maybe the thinner/solvent in the oil is enough to allow the oil finish to penetrate into the wood?

[John Keeton]

​“Dr. Kirk's Scratch-FREEE Woodturner's Polishing Wax is a special blend of premium oils, waxes and ultra-fine tripoli abrasive…”

According to the Odie’s website “
Odie’s Oil contains absolutely no solvents, so nothing will evaporate during the drying process.”
I have never used either Scratch free or Odie’s, but it sounds like they are compatible since both are comprised of oils and waxes. The Tripoli is nothing but grit.

[roger wiegand]

Oils and waxes are pretty much longer and shorter versions of similar hydrocarbon chains, so in general are quite compatible. It would seem to make sense to first apply the smaller molecules-- the "oils", as they will probably penetrate deeper in the wood, and then the longer waxes on top. Some of the oil will probably get through the wax if you wax first, but I think your intuition that oil first will work better is correct. As pointed out most formulated products, especially those intended to be used alone, are mixtures of components. Most waxes, like pure paraffin or carnauba, are quite hard unless melted or mixed with an oil to make a softer paste.

[Bernie Kopfer]

I wonder what the result would be if I used Odie’s first, which can be applied like a friction polish, and then used the Scratch Freee? Would it result in removal of fine scratch marks? I’ll have to give it a try.

[Bernie Kopfer]

​“Dr. Kirk's Scratch-FREEE Woodturner's Polishing Wax is a special blend of premium oils, waxes and ultra-fine tripoli abrasive…”

According to the Odie’s website “
Odie’s Oil contains absolutely no solvents, so nothing will evaporate during the drying process.”
I have never used either Scratch free or Odie’s, but it sounds like they are compatible since both are comprised of oils and waxes. The Tripoli is nothing but grit.

Compatibility of the two products was not my primary concern, and John you are probably very correct in observing their similarity. But to me the real question is what technique or sequence results in a longer lasting, “better” looking product. Highly subjective but that is how we progress.

[John Keeton]

Bernie, you don’t mention whether the piece you are finishing is utilitarian or artistic. If it is utilitarian, then a renewable finish is usually used and a “shine” is not customarily a factor. If it is artistic and you are wanting a long lasting and “smooth” finish I would suggest there are many other better choices.