220v Plugs

[Bryan Cramer]

I’m in the process of properly wiring 220v circuits and will be installing new outlets. What’s everyones opinion on the type of plug to use? Twist locks? Other options?

Thanks!

[Brian Deakin]

I am not sure if these would be appropriate or available but in the United Kingdom MK are considered the gold standard

An useful feature is some of the products have a red pilot liht which allows you to visually determine if the socket is switched They have an arrangement where the plug socket fits into surface trunking which allows you to move the sockets or add additional sockets

https://mkelectric.presti.media/me/#page/I

(https://mkelectric.presti.media/me/).
(https://mkelectric.presti.media/me/)

[Justin Rapp]

I’m in the process of properly wiring 220v circuits and will be installing new outlets. What’s everyones opinion on the type of plug to use? Twist locks? Other options?

Thanks!

Depends on the amps for me. 20 amp for my band saw and table saw I am using 6-20P. For my 30amp DC I use 6L-30P twist lock.

[Cameron Wood]

In general, I've found twist lock to have no advantage- they don't really lock.

So whatever is compatible, available, and the correct rating.

[Justin Rapp]

In general, I've found twist lock to have no advantage- they don't really lock.

So whatever is compatible, available, and the correct rating.

there are twist-lock marine style that actually have a treaded ring-nut to help prevent it from falling out. They are plastic so in an emergency, a bit of force and the ring should crack right off.

[roger wiegand]

I also use 6-20R receptacles. Twist lock might offer some advantage for a cord that is getting moved around a lot or subject to vibration at the receptacle, but like Cameron I find they don't work particularly well for that purpose-- if you're twisting and pulling the cord they will twist right out. For a stationary tool there's no need or point unless the cord is someplace you're likely to trip on it and pull it out. In that latter case I'd reconfigure my setup to avoid the issue. Not sure I wouldn't generally prefer the cord to pull out vs tripping me. Some report much higher failure rates with twist-lock connectors.

[Bryan Cramer]

6-20r is what I have now just was wondering if the consensus was to install something better. I guess not, thanks guys.

[glenn bradley]

I used NEMA 6-20r for years in the old shop with no problems. I switched to twist locks in the new shop but question the validity :)

[John Lanciani]

6-20r is what I have now just was wondering if the consensus was to install something better. I guess not, thanks guys.

Define "better". 6-15, 6-20, & 6-30 are the correct NEMA receptacle designations for 250 volt single phase non-locking 15, 20, & 30 amp devices. There are varying degrees of quality available based on price, purchase based on your threshold of pain and desire for quality.

ETA; If you want locking devices you'll be looking for L6-15, L6-20, or L6-30 respectively. Using the correct receptacles and plugs helps to insure that down the road someone doesn't get a nasty surprise when they find out the hard way that you used the wrong devices for the given voltage, current, and phasing.

[Tom M King]

I have cords and plugs on machines with Hubbell L6-20 and L6-30 twist locks that some are over 40 years old. The twist locks are easier for me to operate than ones with straight blades. I remember replacing one end that the lugs got loose and arced the lug, and one end that I drove my step van (back when I used one) off without unplugging the cord into it from a temporary service, pulling the end off the cord. I still have some NOS ends from back then still in boxes.

I will say that they, other than the one on the truck, only got operated once a year usually.

I don't remember ever having a problem with them coming loose. I don't enjoy plugging in and out the 50 amp straight blade welder cord.

[Jim Becker]

i personally use twist locks for everything except my compressor...the latter simply because I just didn't want to re-terminate it from how I did it originally. My machine circuits are all 30 amps, except for the compressor and the current DC, so all the machines get 30 amp plugs and all the receptacles are 30 amp, too.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Mine are common 20 amp Levitons. My one piece, four gang, simplex wall plate is one of a kind (as far as I know).
491985

[Rollie Meyers]

The name "Twistlock®" is a registered trademark of Hubbell Inc., any other make is is a locking device.

[John K Jordan]

I’m in the process of properly wiring 220v circuits and will be installing new outlets. What’s everyones opinion on the type of plug to use? Twist locks? Other options?
Thanks!

If needed, google NEMA receptacle chart for diagrams for various voltage and current.

Some basics which you probably already know if you’re doing your own wiring: The receptacle needed depends on the voltage, current, and phase. Non-industrial applications are likely single-phase 15, 20, 30, or 50 amp. If the thing being powered needs a neutral (uncommon for shop tools) a 220v receptacle needs four conductors instead of three. The current requirements and the length of the run dictate the minimum wire size.

Besides that, for non-commercial use in much of the USA I think using push-in or locking outlets is a personal choice. If in doubt you may want to contact your local electrical inspector or at least an electrician. (I am not an electrician except in Mexico)

I installed push-in plugs/receptacles (NEMA 6-50) for the 50 amp outlets for my welders and plasma cutter, mostly 20 or 30 amp locking outlets for the 220/240v shop tools.

JKJ

[Rollie Meyers]

If needed, google NEMA receptacle chart for diagrams for various voltage and current.

Some basics which you probably already know if you’re doing your own wiring: The receptacle needed depends on the voltage, current, and phase. Non-industrial applications are likely single-phase 15, 20, 30, or 50 amp. If the thing being powered needs a neutral (uncommon for shop tools) a 220v receptacle needs four conductors instead of three. The current requirements and the length of the run dictate the minimum wire size.

Besides that, for non-commercial use in much of the USA I think using push-in or locking outlets is a personal choice. If in doubt you may want to contact your local electrical inspector or at least an electrician. (I am not an electrician except in Mexico)


I installed push-in plugs/receptacles (NEMA 6-50) for the 50 amp outlets for my welders and plasma cutter, mostly 20 or 30 amp locking outlets for the 220/240v shop tools.

JKJ



220V is a long obsolete voltage in North America, replaced by 240V, and where 220V is still used it is mostly 50 hertz and a line to neutral voltage, brown is hot & blue is neutral. No 240V load requires a neutral, none whatsoever, so only 3 conductors are required, some appliances like ranges, & clothes dryers are 120/240V so 4 conductors are required. Knowing the difference is important.

[Jason Roehl]

220V is a long obsolete voltage in North America, replaced by 240V, and where 220V is still used it is mostly 50 hertz and a line to neutral voltage, brown is hot & blue is neutral. No 240V load requires a neutral, none whatsoever, so only 3 conductors are required, some appliances like ranges, & clothes dryers are 120/240V so 4 conductors are required. Knowing the difference is important.

More commonly, 220V/110V is obsolete nomenclature used by (usually older) folks who are referring, out of longtime habit, to their residential service that is now 240V/120V nominally. My current house is close to that. My previous house was often 250V/125V when I measured it.

[Mike Heidrick]

I use L6-30P and L6-30R for the 30amp or less 240V single phase connections in my shop. All those circuits are wired with 10ga romex in wall. I typically buy the plugs and receptacles like new in bulk from ebay.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I use twist locs on everything because I prefer them. A push style plug that becomes partially disconnected has a higher chance of arcing, which in a dust filled shop is a particularly dangerous thing. I also much prefer the more sure grip of the longer twist lock. A local girl nearly died when she inadvertently touch both hot prongs of a partially unplugged 50 amp dryer plug. Weeks in the hospital, heart damage, seizures, etc. And last, but definitely not least, the twist loc plugs always have better construction of the terminals, strain reliefs and grommets, which makes a safe installation easier.

The absolute worst is a 30/50 amp 3 or 4 prong universal plug. Those things should be outlawed. The best in my opinion is Woodhead L16-20, or similar. Just make sure you pick 20 or 30 amp for the circuits and keep the cords consistent. The ground lug kicks out on 20 amp, in on 30 amp, so they are not interchangeable. If your feed circuit has a ground, and your machine doesn't need it, you can just use the appropriate terminals in a 4 prong plug. I suggest you plan for machines needing ground though and use 4 prong on everything.

BTW, Jason is right, normal folks use 220/240 interchangeably to describe the same thing. There is some factual basis to that, just refer to your meter and you will quickly see that the voltage isn't consistent across a couple circuits, let alone a substation or a national grid. During irrigation season here, 240 is actually something in the 215 to 245 range. That's a subject for a different day.

[roger wiegand]

I've come to find the debates about whether US power should be called 220, 230, or 240 somewhat amusing. If I measure it, especially in the summertime, I can have any (or all) of those over the course of a day. For what it's worth, the outlets I have are labeled for 250V.
Someone, somewhere may have declared a standard, but the power company delivers whatever it is able to on any given day. I'd guess it averages 232-235.

[Jim Becker]

Roger, the 250v labeled is the max voltage specification. While the power supply can vary slightly due to load conditions on the particular transformer you are fed from and sometimes beyond, "in general", service to our homes in the US (and I believe Canada) is 240v plus or minus a little bit which provides 120v to typical regular receptacles in our homes. (one side of the 240v feed to the home) I've also seen that variability, however...at our old property, there was a period of time where the feed was way off and I had to install a buck/boost transformer on my slider to get it to actually turn on when the voltage at the wall was a hair beyond the acceptable range for the electronics on the saw.

Terminology used by folks and even companies amazes me...there are so many instances in advertising and conversation where "110" and "220" is the word, despite the fact that as has been noted, the overall system has been operating at 240/120 for a very long time now. Force of habit.

Rollie, interesting about that "Twistlock" trademark. I guess it's another "Kleenex" thing... :)

[Tom M King]

Thomas Edison chose 110 Volts for his light bulbs. I think it was only in the 1930's before all the electric companies standardized to the higher 120/240 Volts thinking it would carry better through longer lines.

People who lived before the increase always referred to it as 110/220 and it has just carried over. I knew old electricians in the 1960's (I worked for one when I was 13 and 14 in Summers) who always called it 110 and 220 because that's what they grew up knowing.

It will require a lot of help from people calling it 120 and 240 to ever get past the 110/220 phase. Be one please. 220V is a European voltage.

[Bryan Cramer]

Thanks guys the conversation kind of got off track :) but some good info. As in “better” I currently have an extension cord I made to run to each machine one at a time. So running dedicated circuits and outlets are going to be a huge improvement regardless of the type. Obviously the quality of the plugs/outlets is the most important- no no name knock offs. I’m basically starting from scratch and want to do it right.

I’m working with an electrician to run the surface conduit, boxes and pull wire, he’s leaving it up to me to install the outlets and plugs I want. I’ll ask what his opinion is and post back.

[John K Jordan]

I've come to find the debates about whether US power should be called 220, 230, or 240 somewhat amusing. If I measure it, especially in the summertime, I can have any (or all) of those over the course of a day. For what it's worth, the outlets I have are labeled for 250V.
Someone, somewhere may have declared a standard, but the power company delivers whatever it is able to on any given day. I'd guess it averages 232-235.

Your power sounds good. Utility service spec is apparently +/- 5%, 228-252 volts for 240v nominal in the US.
I’m also always a little amused when this comes up, was pretty much expecting it when I posted y reply. To add to the fun every AC electric motor nameplate in my shop is marked either 115 or 230v and there’s a reason for that too.

I think the important thing in discussions is everyone understands that when people refer to 220, 230, and 240v they are all referring to the same thing. I usually try to use the same numbers as the OP (or the person I’m talking to.) I did this just a little while ago when a friend called about a problem with his hot tub heater. (we got it debugged and fixed during the call - yay!)

JKJ

[Jim Becker]

Bryan, there's no need to have dedicated circuits for machines that will never be used simultaneously...you can have multiple receptacles on a 240v machine circuit. You avoid the extra cost of the breakers as well as save on wire since there are not multiple "home runs" back to the panel. For example, in my new shop building, I have one 'general machine' circuit that covers the table saw, jointer/thicknesser combo, bandsaw and lathe. Only the DC, compressor and CNC machine have dedicated circuits. Since my 'general machine' circuit is 30 amp and uses hefty #10 wire, I use j-boxes to split out to the individual receptacle locations as it's easier to do the splices in larger j-boxes and only have one wire coming into the receptacle boxes where it's easier to make the terminations and tuck things in neatly.

[roger wiegand]

I'm well aware of that, my point was that my power company seldom delivers 240V and indeed sometimes delivers 220, so I've given up being dogmatic about calling it one thing or another (though I'll continue to say 120/240 out of habit and respect for the aspiration). You can probably search back on this forum and find posts where I corrected people. I've repented that particular bit of pedantry in the face of facts on the ground and will understand that when people say 220, 230, or 240 in the US they are all talking about the same thing.


Roger, the 250v labeled is the max voltage specification. While the power supply can vary slightly due to load conditions on the particular transformer you are fed from and sometimes beyond, "in general", service to our homes in the US (and I believe Canada) is 240v plus or minus a little bit which provides 120v to typical regular receptacles in our homes. (one side of the 240v feed to the home) I've also seen that variability, however...at our old property, there was a period of time where the feed was way off and I had to install a buck/boost transformer on my slider to get it to actually turn on when the voltage at the wall was a hair beyond the acceptable range for the electronics on the saw.

Terminology used by folks and even companies amazes me...there are so many instances in advertising and conversation where "110" and "220" is the word, despite the fact that as has been noted, the overall system has been operating at 240/120 for a very long time now. Force of habit.

Rollie, interesting about that "Twistlock" trademark. I guess it's another "Kleenex" thing... :)

[Jim Becker]

No disagreement, Roger. Other than the mention of hte 250v specification, I was just expanding on what you said. Sorry for any confusion.

[Charlie Velasquez]

I’m in the process of properly wiring 220v circuits and will be installing new outlets. What’s everyones opinion on the type of plug to use? Twist locks? Other options?

Thanks!
Curious…
I think North Dakota is using the 2020 revision of the NEC. Will these be gfci?

[Mike Wilkins]

I started out using the 6L-30P thinking that a heavy, locking industrial type plug would be the best heavy duty item for my machines. I have a tendency to over-think and over-build things, so I could justify to myself that these were needed. No regrets.
I even used industrial rated 110 volt switches and outlets for the same reason.

[Wes Grass]

Like Jim, I think, if it came with a molded on 220 plug I'll put in whatever receptacle it needs. My Oneida V-3000 for example. Bare cables,, twist locks of whatever series applies.

Most of the 'custom' stuff, like my foot switch for the router table, I buy an extension cord with a molded plug and cut the receptacle off. Cleaner, more respectable 'factory made' look to it.

[Patty Hann]

Bryan, there's no need to have dedicated circuits for machines that will never be used simultaneously...you can have multiple receptacles on a 240v machine circuit. You avoid the extra cost of the breakers as well as save on wire since there are not multiple "home runs" back to the panel. For example, in my new shop building, I have one 'general machine' circuit that covers the table saw, jointer/thicknesser combo, bandsaw and lathe. Only the DC, compressor and CNC machine have dedicated circuits. Since my 'general machine' circuit is 30 amp and uses hefty #10 wire, I use j-boxes to split out to the individual receptacle locations as it's easier to do the splices in larger j-boxes and only have one wire coming into the receptacle boxes where it's easier to make the terminations and tuck things in neatly.

Jim, those 240 receptacles that are on one ckt are all mounted in the wall(s), correct?
Did you mention in a previous post that you were/are considering at some point mounting (or hanging) them overhead?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, those 240 receptacles that are on one ckt are all mounted in the wall(s), correct?
Did you mention in a previous post that you were/are considering at some point mounting (or hanging) them overhead?
All the installed 240v receptacles for my general machine circuit are on the walls. There is the "potential" that I may need to do a drop from the ceiling once I have all the tools into the new shop building and the "game of tetris" is completed relative to where I want things to live "permanently". (there is no permanent when it comes to shop arrangement...LOL) So I have a big-butt j-box up top that I can, if necessary, tie additional connections to if they are necessary. If I do a ceiling drop, it will either be supported by uni-strut or be a strain relief configured twist lock that hangs down just beyond my standing reach. Most likely it would be the former because provisions for a dust collection drop would also be involved and that absolutely needs support for a 10' drop from the ceiling.

[Bryan Cramer]

No these circuits won’t be GFI. I’m actually only planning on only one circuit, but I do need a dedicated second circuit for my new dust collector. Once things get done I think I should post a shop renovation thread. The wiring is only part of the many improvement projects…

[Bill Dufour]

I like to use four wire outlets for 240. This gives me 120 volts at the machine for whatever. I often add a 120 outlet on the front for a drill, sander or vacuum.
Bill D

[Jim Becker]

Bill, with today's current cost for copper wire, such as 10-3, doing four wire circuits where they are not absolutely necessary really raises the budget bar. I had to do that for my CNC and that 30' of cable was "gold plated"...

[Rollie Meyers]

I like to use four wire outlets for 240. This gives me 120 volts at the machine for whatever. I often add a 120 outlet on the front for a drill, sander or vacuum.
Bill D

If it's 30A & above, just tapping for 120V is not a good idea, and if a 15A or 20A receptacle is used on a 30A circuit is a flat out code violation in most cases.

[Jason Roehl]

If it's 30A & above, just tapping for 120V is not a good idea, and if a 15A or 20A receptacle is used on a 30A circuit is a flat out code violation in most cases.

I’m not sure that’s true if the receptacle is on a plugged-in machine. It would be true if the receptacle were hard-wired to the circuit.

[John Lifer]

Bill, with today's current cost for copper wire, such as 10-3, doing four wire circuits where they are not absolutely necessary really raises the budget bar. I had to do that for my CNC and that 30' of cable was "gold plated"...

Very much agree. You would actually be cheaper running a separate 120v line where you need it and be IN code. 4 wire is expensive. Along with added cost of the outlets and plugs.
Keep the voltages separate.

And for my two saws that are 240v I just use straight plugs. Twist lock are twice as expensive and really don't help in most instances. For my two older RAS and my lathe that are running off VFD and 240v I just use again straight plugs which are easily disconnected to power down the VFD.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Electric ranges and dryers now require a four conductor 240 V circuit. It is one of those modern "improvements". Some delicate electronic control circuits require a point of zero volts as well as a ground. So we have a big fat neutral required for a low voltage, low amps control circuit. If a stove or dyer stops working these days it is generally a problem with the electronics.

[Jack Frederick]

As to the 3 or 4 wire 240v plugs, I have a few three by each of the doors for my welder. My daughter bought a electric Q-tron Audi and we had to add a fourth wire for her charging cable. Going forward that may become more of an issue and lead one to want the four wire in places.

[Justin Rapp]

As to the 3 or 4 wire 240v plugs, I have a few three by each of the doors for my welder. My daughter bought a electric Q-tron Audi and we had to add a fourth wire for her charging cable. Going forward that may become more of an issue and lead one to want the four wire in places.

4 wire is typical only when part of the device needs a 120v power source, such as an electric appliance that runs 240v for the heat (dryer/oven) and the control panels are at 120v. I suspect the Audi charging system has 120v controls.

[Bob Borzelleri]

When I built my shop, I decided that all the 240V machines would get power from ceiling drops; maybe because it was easy to install runs through the attic.

But, the main reason was that I wanted the flexibility to use machines where I wanted to use them. Since everything is on wheels (except the lathe and cyclone dust collector that lives in it’s own room), I can use tools near the center of the shop which is my preference.

That said, all the drops are twist lock in order to overcome gravity. Most of them still actually lock.

[Cameron Wood]

This is a drop to an outlet box that feeds three 110v (yeah, whatever...) machines.
A prusik knot for strain relief and adjustability.

492101

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have ball end bungees with prusik knots on my over head drops too. It works well.

[Charlie Velasquez]

No these circuits won’t be GFI. I’m actually only planning on only one circuit, but I do need a dedicated second circuit for my new dust collector. Once things get done I think I should post a shop renovation thread. The wiring is only part of the many improvement projects…

You said not gfci, but you should check with the AHJ in your area.
If your locale is using 2020 NEC, you may not have a choice on 3-wire or 4-wire.

492105

If you must indeed have a gfci circuit, I think they are only made with a neutral pigtail.

[Jim Becker]

I was thankful with my new shop building project that my jurisdiction has not adopted the 2020 NEC. Interestingly, I think that the industry sees the writing on the wall as my panel has plug-on-neutral which reduced the cost of the 120v GFCI breakers noticeably. No pigtails required. I have not checked, but hopefully, there would be 240v GFCI breakers that can also leverage that plug-on-neutral which eliminates the pigtail.

[John K Jordan]

I don’t know about 240v GFCI but my experience with two previous 120v VFD powered lathes is they would not work with GFIC - triggered every time the lathe was switched on. I had to remove the GFCI to use them.

JKJ


I was thankful with my new shop building project that my jurisdiction has not adopted the 2020 NEC. Interestingly, I think that the industry sees the writing on the wall as my panel has plug-on-neutral which reduced the cost of the 120v GFCI breakers noticeably. No pigtails required. I have not checked, but hopefully, there would be 240v GFCI breakers that can also leverage that plug-on-neutral which eliminates the pigtail.

[Jim Becker]

Yea, there are going to be issues like that sometimes, John. AFCI has similar issues with some tools, too.

[Kory Watson]

You said not gfci, but you should check with the AHJ in your area.
If your locale is using 2020 NEC, you may not have a choice on 3-wire or 4-wire.

492105

If you must indeed have a gfci circuit, I think they are only made with a neutral pigtail.

Could you clarify what you mean by 3-wire or 4-wire? On a 240V GFCI, with what I would consider the most common amperage for a shop (20), you only need standard 12/2 cable. A neutral does not need to be plugged in on the load side, only the line (pigtail) needs to be bonded to the panel's neutral bar.

You are indeed correct on the 2020 NEC. I'm rewiring my garage at the moment, moving away from a 1970s sub panel. Among other upgrades, I'm required to install an electrode grounding system as well as GFCI on all circuits. AFCI isn't required yet, though.

<rant>

That said, it's been pretty expensive so far to do the rewire. $40 in ground rods, $60 to rent a drill to insert them 8ft into the ground, $500 in wire, $150 for the panel, $600+ for breakers (lots of circuits), expensive tamper-proof outlets since those are required for 120 and 240V circuits, $100 in various other materials like electrical boxes... It adds up.

I'm totally up for the NEC keeping us safe, but sometimes I worry it's making electrical unreasonably expensive each year. And why big box stores keep selling outlets that are no longer up to code, I don't understand.

<end rant>

[Jason Roehl]

I'm totally up for the NEC keeping us safe, but sometimes I worry it's making electrical unreasonably expensive each year. And why big box stores keep selling outlets that are no longer up to code, I don't understand.

<end rant>

The NEC is a private organization. If the code were perfect from the get-go, they would be irrelevant in short order. They make their money in publishing updated code, getting municipalities to adopt it, and electricians to have to buy the new publications every few years. But what they do is they drill down on risk. Many years ago, they deemed—and rightly so—knob-and-tube wiring to be unsafe. Probably prevented lots (millions) of electrocutions and fires as people moved away from that wiring approach. But, they keep going after the “most dangerous” installations, so now that they’ve vanquished the truly unsafe methods, they’re starting to go after things that are one-in-a-million freak accidents.

To be fair, I don’t have a problem with the NEC publishing updated “recommended methods.” I do have a bit of an issue with being told by AHJs telling me what I can and can’t do in my own home that was perfectly acceptable for the last 40 years, and suddenly isn’t.

[Justin Rapp]

Could you clarify what you mean by 3-wire or 4-wire? On a 240V GFCI, with what I would consider the most common amperage for a shop (20), you only need standard 12/2 cable. A neutral does not need to be plugged in on the load side, only the line (pigtail) needs to be bonded to the panel's neutral bar.

<end rant>

Kory,

There are 240v appliances and sometimes machines that require a 3 wire circuit. This is for cases where the control boards of the machine run on 120v and need a negative (typically white) wire. This is usually the case for appliances like an electric dryer or oven. Second, please be mindful about stating common amperages for a shop. In most cases, most machine 3hp and under for 240v is 20 and 12/2 cable. However but not all. My DC is 3hp and called for a 30amp circuit. A lot of machines that people are using require higher amp circuits due to the larger motor equipment people have been migrating too.

Justin

[Jim Becker]

Justin, I think you meant four wire for dual voltage, at least if you are including the ground. :) My CNC requires a four wire circuit so it uses L14-30 compared to the L6 gear everything else uses in my shop for 240v.

[Justin Rapp]

Justin, I think you meant four wire for dual voltage, at least if you are including the ground. :) My CNC requires a four wire circuit so it uses L14-30 compared to the L6 gear everything else uses in my shop for 240v.

Well yes, Kory mentioned 3 wire or 4 wire. I thought he was including ground which is why i asked for clarification. For me, 3 wire is white/black/red and ground. Four wire is white/black/red/blue and ground.

[Scott T Smith]

I use twist-lock's for the ceiling mounted receptacles, and standard 6 series for all of the wall receptacles. It's worked well for a long time.

Ceiling receptacles have 18' extension cords dropping down so that I can easily disconnect the equipment at floor level.

[Rollie Meyers]

Thomas Edison chose 110 Volts for his light bulbs. I think it was only in the 1930's before all the electric companies standardized to the higher 120/240 Volts thinking it would carry better through longer lines.

People who lived before the increase always referred to it as 110/220 and it has just carried over. I knew old electricians in the 1960's (I worked for one when I was 13 and 14 in Summers) who always called it 110 and 220 because that's what they grew up knowing.

It will require a lot of help from people calling it 120 and 240 to ever get past the 110/220 phase. Be one please. 220V is a European voltage.

220 volts is no longer a standard there, the EU standardized it as 230V, some countries like England (pre Brexit), & France were 415/240V, others were 380/220V, so they harmonized it as 400/230V.

[Rollie Meyers]

You said not gfci, but you should check with the AHJ in your area.
If your locale is using 2020 NEC, you may not have a choice on 3-wire or 4-wire.

492105

If you must indeed have a gfci circuit, I think they are only made with a neutral pigtail.

The neutral pigtail on a 2 pole GFCI circuit breaker is needed for the function of the GFCI, a neutral is not required for the load, the GFCI requirements for HVAC equipment has been delayed due to the Schiff storm that happened when the equipment would not function on a GFCI protected circuit.

[Rollie Meyers]

Well yes, Kory mentioned 3 wire or 4 wire. I thought he was including ground which is why i asked for clarification. For me, 3 wire is white/black/red and ground. Four wire is white/black/red/blue and ground.

Your 3-wire is a 4 wire, & your 4-wire is a 5-wire, the 5-wire would be a 3Ø, 208Y/120V, or 480Y/277V, and for the Canadians, 600Y/347V.


492414

This is a 220 volt receptacle.

[Charlie Velasquez]

The neutral pigtail on a 2 pole GFCI circuit breaker is needed for the function of the GFCI, a neutral is not required for the load, the GFCI requirements for HVAC equipment has been delayed due to the Schiff storm that happened when the equipment would not function on a GFCI protected circuit.

Aha! That makes sense.

[Michael Drew]

If you are looking for quality receptacles, look for "hospital grade".

I would suggest running four conductors to the J-boxes that will house the receptacles. You do not need to use all four, but if you ever needed to - it's there and you will save yourself a ton of headaches and cash should you have need for one, and you did not run conduit to the box. And speaking of conduit, that should also be on the table. If you run conduit, you can buy roles of wire, which is significantly less costly that Romex (per foot).

[Justin Rapp]

Your 3-wire is a 4 wire, & your 4-wire is a 5-wire, the 5-wire would be a 3Ø, 208Y/120V, or 480Y/277V, and for the Canadians, 600Y/347V.


492414

This is a 220 volt receptacle.

It depends on what country you are in. In the US, we do not have this 220 volt receptacle. This however is a common receptacle across the pond. In the US, our wires are for example, 12/2, which really is a 3 wire cable, but classified a /2 for the non-ground wire. The extra wire is an unsheathed and only used for ground, therefore not part of the wire set used to carry voltage.

[andy bessette]

6-20R receptacles for me, except where more power is needed, such as welders, etc.

[Rollie Meyers]

It depends on what country you are in. In the US, we do not have this 220 volt receptacle. This however is a common receptacle across the pond. In the US, our wires are for example, 12/2, which really is a 3 wire cable, but classified a /2 for the non-ground wire. The extra wire is an unsheathed and only used for ground, therefore not part of the wire set used to carry voltage.

My point is that 220 volts went away before before WWII in the USA, Cuba, and China, are a couple of countries that do still use 220V.

[andy bessette]

In all my 79 years it has been 110 and 220 volts. :)

[Rich Engelhardt]

110 volts and 120 volts A/C are really the same thing, just expressed differently.

The actual peak voltage of a wall circuit is 170V A/C.
110V is the average voltage.
120V is the RMS voltage.

It's the same thing, just expressed differently because it's based on values measured and derived from different points along the sine wave.

Today, nearly everything in the USA uses the RMS figure.

[Jim Becker]

In all my 79 years it has been 110 and 220 volts. :)
Only verbally, my friend. :D That's the conundrum in these conversations what folks say and what actually flows through the wires isn't always the same. Habits die hard for sure.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Here's an article that deals with 110/120V.
https://web.physics.ucsb.edu/~lecturedemonstrations/Composer/Pages/64.33.html#:~:text=For%20AC%20from%20the%20wall,12 0%2F0.707%20%3D%20170%20V.

[Jason Roehl]

Here's an article that deals with 110/120V.
https://web.physics.ucsb.edu/~lecturedemonstrations/Composer/Pages/64.33.html#:~:text=For%20AC%20from%20the%20wall,12 0%2F0.707%20%3D%20170%20V.

If the peak-to-peak voltage is 340V, and the amplitude is 170V, then the average is 0V, not 110V.

[andy bessette]

It is only 0-volts for the briefest moment.

[Rich Engelhardt]

If the peak-to-peak voltage is 340V, and the amplitude is 170V, then the average is 0V, not 110V.True but - that isn't what is meant buy average voltage.
I only used that article because it's simple and to the point.

This one gets into more detail and goes into why they only use half the wave:
https://eepower.com/technical-articles/values-of-alternating-voltage-and-current/#

This is also well beyond the scope of the OP so - I'm dropping it.

[Bill Dufour]

Same as people refering to a half ton pickup truck. The makers stopped using that term in the 1930's

[Justin Rapp]

Same as people refering to a half ton pickup truck. The makers stopped using that term in the 1930's

Motor Trend article from 2021 used this term: https://www.motortrend.com/features/best-half-ton-trucks/. I supposed it should be class 1 ... class n not based on ton ratings. So MT is keeping the term going.

[Bill Dufour]

Motor Trend article from 2021 used this term: https://www.motortrend.com/features/best-half-ton-trucks/. I supposed it should be class 1 ... class n not based on ton ratings. So MT is keeping the term going.

The new(11 year old) ford ranger half ton is 1,600 pounds. I think the one ton is over 3,000 pounds so roughly 50% off.
Bill D