Resaw King Resharpening Disappointment

[Brian Gouldman]

I just got back my Resaw King blade after sending it away for the first time. What was initially excitement quickly gave way to extreme disappointment. Taking the tooth guard strip off the blade I saw several chipped teeth within the first foot alone. In all, 23 chipped teeth around the 115” blade.

At a loss as to where to go from here. The remainder of the teeth are sufficiently sharp. I haven’t put it on the saw yet to see how well it cuts. Does Laguna have any sort of policy on handling something like this? Seems like terrible workmanship on their part to me. I plan on emailing customer support to see what they have to say about it. I’m curious what other’s expectations would be in this situation, and what others results have been with Laguna resharpening in the past. I always have seen resharpening listed as a selling point for this blade here and other places but rarely if ever seen results of folks having it done.

[Andrew Hughes]

That’s a bummer. Be sure to take pics before you test cut the blade.
Ive giving up having carbide blades resharpened. They never come back like new.
Good luck

[lou Brava]

Sorry to hear that, those blades are super expensive. IMO there's no excuse & Laguna needs to make it right either fix it or give ya a new one. They push those blades and there sharping service as a selling point they can't expect you to be OK with 23 chipped teeth. I've got one & if I ever get it sharpened I'm making sure Laguna will return it with all teeth intact. Hopefully after you contact there CS you'll get it sorted out.

[Dave Novak]

I had a similar thing happen to me. I sent my resaw king in for sharpening and now I can't get it to cut straight. Even dull, that blade was accurate as can be - until I had it sharpened.

[Jonathan Jung]

I've heard nothing good, only bad, about Laguna and their sharpening service. So I use a local outfit who has more skin in the game to get it right.

[glenn bradley]

I was also disappointed that they did not repair the broken teeth on my blade even though I noted them on the order. I was informed that they did not repair teeth and that if the amount of teeth was beyond their acceptable amount they would refuse the blade. End of story. Certainly gives me pause in ordering any more Resaw King blades.

[Gary Petersen]

I bought a Resaw King just a few weeks ago and haven't needed to have it sharpened yet. Would you please post the results of your conversation with Laguna customer service here, Brian? Thank you for sharing your experience.

[Derek Cohen]

I have a 1" Woodmaster CT bandsaw blade, and sharpen this myself using a diamond disk in a Dremel. My previous blade was re-sharpened 5 times.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Patrick Kane]

I have used their sharpening service 3-4 times now, and i have no complaints. Im sure they will give you a free or discounted sharpening on your next one. Heck, they replaced a resaw king when i toasted mine on a loose ceramic insert on a laguna saw. This saw was 10-15 years old and well out of warranty, but they replaced the blade for free.

In the scheme of things, 20+/- shipped teeth might not alter the performance much. I think my blades have 70-80 teeth on them in total

[Brian Gouldman]

I might have to try your method in the future. I have looked in to the woodmaster ct but can’t seem to find anyone, online at least, that offers the 3/4” version. Otherwise I’d be really interested to give it a try.


I have a 1" Woodmaster CT bandsaw blade, and sharpen this myself using a diamond disk in a Dremel. My previous blade was re-sharpened 5 times.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I’ve sent a message off to their CS email. I’m hopeful they will make it right.

[Kevin Jenness]

I have looked in to the woodmaster ct but can’t seem to find anyone, online at least, that offers the 3/4” version. Otherwise I’d be really interested to give it a try.


I don't think Lenox makes the CT less than 1". Their Tri-Master is available in 3/4" http://www.spectrumsupply.com/trimaster.aspx#reviews

[Richard Coers]

I would be really surprised if they did sharpening on site, so wouldn't be too fast to criticize Laguna. They should have been your first contact before the internet. Laguna takes so many internet beatings on customer service I feel sorry for them. I don't have any of their equipment, so maybe they deserve it?

[Brian Gouldman]

I’ve emailed them, so giving them their chance and will post the result here as well. I don’t see any issue with sharing my account with others as I have or seeking feedback of others accounts of their service. Pretty sure I’ve kept it pretty even tempered thus far.

In my view, the individual or company performing the work already had one chance to look at the results of their work and not send back a blade in worse condition than they received it. Regardless of if they have a third party sharpen the blades or not, they ultimately own quality control of the service they provide and I paid for.

[Andrew Hughes]

I’ve emailed them, so giving them their chance and will post the result here as well. I don’t see any issue with sharing my account with others as I have or seeking feedback of others accounts of their service. Pretty sure I’ve kept it pretty even tempered thus far.

In my view, the individual or company performing the work already had one chance to look at the results of their work and not send back a blade in worse condition than they received it. Regardless of if they have a third party sharpen the blades or not, they ultimately own quality control of the service they provide and I paid for.

When laguna was here on the west coast they had store front in Irvine or maybe Costa Mesa. I saw the Resaw King sharping machine very impressive. Sorta remember the salesman said million dollar machine. I did not envy the guy that was responsible for keeping it tuned.
I would buy another Rk blade if I had wood was very special. It’s more then a resaw blade to me it’s a joinery blade for the finest timbers.
Good Luck

[Earl McLain]

Yeah, they moved their RK sharpening to I think to the Carolinas a few years ago. I sent one out using the Cali form spring of 2020. Was delivered to California, but took them until late summer to find it and send it on. (pandemic didn’t help!!). Got it back in the fall, much duller than when it left home. Made a handful of attempts to get in touch by phone & email with no response. Kept it as a reminder, may give a place 40 miles or so away a short—plenty of carbide left.

[Derek Cohen]

Yeah, they moved their RK sharpening to I think to the Carolinas a few years ago. I sent one out using the Cali form spring of 2020. Was delivered to California, but took them until late summer to find it and send it on. (pandemic didn’t help!!). Got it back in the fall, much duller than when it left home. Made a handful of attempts to get in touch by phone & email with no response. Kept it as a reminder, may give a place 40 miles or so away a short—plenty of carbide left.

The reason I sharpen my own blades is not simply the cost saving, but mainly that I struggle to wait weeks or months for the blade to return. The effort in sharpening is less than the effort to package and ship. 20 minutes and a blade is done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Hughes]

The reason I sharpen my own blades is not simply the cost saving, but mainly that I struggle to wait weeks or months for the blade to return. The effort in sharpening is less than the effort to package and ship. 20 minutes and a blade is done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I tried your method Derek and I made a mess out my blade.
If I remember correctly I tried to sharpen a woodmaster ct.
If you weren’t on the other side of the planet I would send my blades to you. :)

[John Kananis]

Can you sharpen the Resaw King yourself? I've had some success with other blades - just touched the back of each tooth on a 600 grit cbn wheel. Really takes no time.

[Curt Harms]

I don't think Lenox makes the CT less than 1". Their Tri-Master is available in 3/4" http://www.spectrumsupply.com/trimaster.aspx#reviews

They make a 1/2" Tri-Master as well. The blade is .025" rather than the more common .032"+ so should be easier to tension. I bought one to run on a 14" Rikon 10-325 but haven't done anything with it beyond experimenting a bit.

[Brian Gouldman]

Can you sharpen the Resaw King yourself? I've had some success with other blades - just touched the back of each tooth on a 600 grit cbn wheel. Really takes no time.
I will probably do that next time around.

[Bob Falk]

I saw this thread and thought I better check the two Resaw King bandsaw blades I recently got back from Laguna after (supposed) resharpening. As far as I can tell, they never bothered to resharpen either of the blades. I have a message into them (trying to call was useless...got into a circular customer service loop). Here is a photo of one of the teeth. Still has wood dust on the gullet and you can see the there isn't any evidence of grinding. Unbelievable. This is evidence of a company in decline. Postscript FWIW- they do have a caveat that they will not sharpen a blade with more than 6 broken teeth. I checked the blades and they only had 1 broken tooth each.
491749

[Tom Trees]

This video I found a good watch, made it look easy, not much talking, just tacking parts and moving onto the next bit.
https://youtu.be/le_NmxlLTRk

[Brian Gouldman]

That’s really unfortunate to see Bob. Hopefully you can at least get a refund. The teeth on my blade that I received back that weren’t chipped have at best half the carbide left.

It took a few days of back and forth emails with customer service at the start of the week, but I’m supposedly being sent a new blade. I haven’t gotten any sort of tracking info after a couple days of silence so I’m hoping it just shows up. If nothing happens by mid next week I’ll email again. I’ll update the thread once it’s all settled.

The last few orders of replacement parts from their shop online have required me to email 1-3 weeks after getting no shipping email in order to get someone to go pull parts and send them. Luckily I’ve at least received the full and correct order afterwards.

[Justin Rapp]

That’s really unfortunate to see Bob. Hopefully you can at least get a refund. The teeth on my blade that I received back that weren’t chipped have at best half the carbide left.

It took a few days of back and forth emails with customer service at the start of the week, but I’m supposedly being sent a new blade. I haven’t gotten any sort of tracking info after a couple days of silence so I’m hoping it just shows up. If nothing happens by mid next week I’ll email again. I’ll update the thread once it’s all settled.

The last few orders of replacement parts from their shop online have required me to email 1-3 weeks after getting no shipping email in order to get someone to go pull parts and send them. Luckily I’ve at least received the full and correct order afterwards.

That is unfortunate. I had ordered a part for my bandsaw about a year back (My son inflicted some damage to the plastic dust director thing by turning the saw on before tensioning the blade), still in the middle of covid, and it was mailed out in a day or two, and I had the same experience with a part shipped for warranty on my dust collector. Hopefully it's just a delay with December vacations!

[Brian Gouldman]

I’m sure it’s been an interesting year in many industries as far as staffing. Hopefully it’s just a blip, or vacations with holidays as you’ve said. They usually do respond to email within 24-48 hours pretty reliably which is good.

[Mel Fulks]

Would be helpful to hear how well the carbide saw bands are holding up. Years ago some suppliers recommended against them . Teeth were
falling off

[Derek Cohen]

All one needs to sharpen a bandsaw is a Dremel and diamond disk. The jig holes the angle constant as it sides along the bandsaw fence. Touch just the back of the tooth ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Hkjw4pJF/1.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/cHppC10K/Bandsaw-sharpening-zpshsfsnsi9.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John K Jordan]

I sharpen like that but holding the Dremel by hand, very quick, two or three seconds per tooth. My hand rests on the table and the angle is consistent.
I do use a different angle than in your diagram, grinding a little closer to parallel to the tooth.

JKJ

[Derek Cohen]

John, I began by freehanding the teeth. Did this for a few years. Then decided that a jig would keep the teeth a more consistent height.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John Kananis]

I take the blade to the benchtop grinder. If you've seen the Ashley Harwood videos, same method. Takes no time at all - you just touch each tooth to the wheel for a half a second.

Derek, I like your contraption.

Edit: I think I've asked this before but can you re-sharpen Carbide blades yourself? Same method?

[John K Jordan]

…
Edit: I think I've asked this before but can you re-sharpen Carbide blades yourself? Same method?

I haven’t tried sharpening carbide toothed bandsaw blades but have sharpened other carbide and ceramic cutting edges, for example my carbide chainsaw chains. I use diamond grit on a hone, stone or wheel.

Standard AlOx wheels are not good for carbide. Some say CBN won’t work but a friend tested sharpening a carbide metal lathe cutter on my CBN wheels and then bought some and an extra bench grinder so he must have been satisfied.

My carbide bandsaw blades don’t need sharpening but when they do I might try it. I would use the same manual method I use now. I’d be interested in the experience of anyone who has sharpened one.

Note there are different types of carbide; perhaps some would be easier to sharpen than others.

If using diamond wheels (or disks) note that industry does not recommend grinding steel since the carbon in the steel can react with and degrade the diamonds. Composite aluminum oxide or silicon carbide, and cubic boron nitride abrasives don’t have this problem.

One thing about bandsaw teeth I haven’t seen mentioned in any bandsaw sharpening discussion - on my steel blades the teeth are set left, right, center and the cutting edges are angled accordingly. I have experimented with repositioning the Dremel gir every tooth to keep the original angles vs sharpening them all at the same angle (quicker). I can’t tell any difference in how well the blade cuts. However, it may affect the smoothness of the cut - I haven’t checked that since for my use it makes no difference. I only mention this in case changing the original angle on a carbide blade does decrease the cut smoothness, then the sharpening method might need to be modified if a smoother cut was desired. I’d love to hear from anyone who has experimented with this.

JKJ

[Tom Trees]

Derek, I've watched some sharpening videos recently, and there was mention that one should not disregard the gullets,
as it's there where the micro fractures will start from.
Have you noticed this?

[Derek Cohen]

Derek, I've watched some sharpening videos recently, and there was mention that one should not disregard the gullets,
as it's there where the micro fractures will start from.
Have you noticed this?

Tom, no doubt there are as many theories and practices in sharpening bandsaw blades as there are plane blades and bench chisels! :) I report what works for me. These are my thoughts ...

One common factor in any sharpening procedure is that a wear bevel develops at the back of the blade (cutting edge). This has the effect of rounding the bevel. Round is dull. Two intersecting sides coming together with an acute angle is sharp. When you add a flat behind the bevel edge, this removes the wear bevel and creates a clean, sharp edge. I try to create a flat just a little lower that the angle at the back of the tooth.

The amount of metal that needs to be removed is miniscule. This just needs to remove the wear bevel. In practice, it is like the shiny spot on the teeth of a backsaw when jointing. I do this each time I sharpen a dovetail or tenon saw - some do not, but it does two things: it removes the wear bevel, and you can see what you are sharpening. When the shine goes, you have created a single edge ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MakingADovetailSaw_html_m3e65332.jpg

In the case of a bandsaw blade, you just need some control of the grind (hence my jig). The shine shows where you have sharpened.

https://i.postimg.cc/dVX85zr3/4.jpg

Point to make: very little metal is removed, and the gullet is not affected. I have re-sharpened most blades at least 4-5 times before I felt it was enough, and this was not because the gullet was getting to be too small, but because the blade had been used quite a long time, and the metal was fatiguing. In point, my previous Woodmaster CT 1" carbide blade was re-sharpened 5 times. After the fifth time - I cannot recall how long - the blade snapped.

Along with this is the set of the tooth. Again, because little metal is removed, the set hardly changes. There is no need to try and re-set the teeth. In fact, if a new blade is cutting rougher than I expect, I will lightly run a diamond plate along each side (as the blade runs).

Lastly, the depth of the gullet is important to carry away dust from the cut. If this does not happen, the blade will wander in the cut, or the board will be pushed away from the fence (hence I use a split fence on my bandsaw). Removing metal from the gullet to keep it wide is not needed if the grind is minute, and it could result in weakening the steel if too much is removed.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[John TenEyck]

I liked Derek's design so much that I copied it. I also added an indexing feature so that the sharpening disk always hits the tooth at the exact same spot.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW0ROZgPj5jtxaZRhQZtxW1i8n3PFQNDkEO3szh9bVkuY OSKTMv7gwFwRABhuB0Kgq-uiD93NsfABhSd250kxRoVVGSFdrrMKEmwXn2yk3aasO-S2GeqUfT0Zl2GJ1yHVnrl30ybVHI9eYyh5X2FHpI5g=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEW0wbrLLVXPIFP6gpGdcHfJTnVM7t6IXDxAoeqtJIp4TM LUyBZjsnxmug7sA0hN1Hib1O4D4x6q4l0IIMlDTkdsW8kHFzV6 51z65sD45kcmv-ea70UlYkAzSpUbIInzCNbMb_wLmHT0h_5KF_XDm_Ez0g=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEUtXrey3dsp5HYtvfgTXbtZVUy3e8xN6kf_AXv_8VKsHC QKPlmx8UWdr3Hgpfq-bEFAjiv6hHe7C_k16_BEMs9QmoNmE8OYOU7a0J1ND_O3sjsgye ZGyAHtCOOS68LWGPvKzn193C1ejXJy1VmoWESUmQ=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEXwx6rDZ-GVe4AZDMedHCvZS7PiLbcxkfjxLAqA6KsFXLaTvpKRS3qQlNBO-f9OaPyrh2wT_bYBJMkYhSBo4Gysva-sMP6pSKAOezgAX6dlmzPzJpzPQbP9QSO1i9IR0r9cn4CzkkKuC eRYavyGpwQkSQ=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1


I've sharpened this blade twice now and it still cuts great. It would be pretty tedious on a blade with more than 2 or 3 tpi but I'd still do it rather than send it out and risk it being damaged.

John

[John TenEyck]

As far as I can discern by observation, the Woodmaster CT has no grind angle to the teeth so the sharpening disk angle does not need to be changed. The teeth are like a rip tooth on a table saw blade, square to the cut. I've sharpened mine twice now and it cuts as well as new.

John

[Kevin Jenness]

John, that's a wonderfully simple indexing jig. Thanks to you and Derek for posting your photos.

[Brian Gouldman]

That’s an awesome jig, I’ll definitely be copying that do do my own sharpening in the future. Simple, repeatable, results I’m definitely a fan of.

[Keegan Shields]

Thanks for the photos Derek and John!

Any recommendations on the Dremel wheel you are using? Diamond or CBN? Quality brands?

[Jamie Buxton]

The wood master CT has two tooth shapes. One is a simple chisel tooth. The other is a shape which is called a triple chip tooth when it is on a circular saw blade. On the the woomaster CT these shapes are interleaved, so I see a chisel, then a triple chip tooth, and so on. I don’t see how you can sharpen a triple-chip tooth from the back. The sharpening tool doesn’t touch the shoulders of the tooth.

[John TenEyck]

If it were desirable to sharpen the face of the tooth rather than the back, it should be easy enough to reorient the Dremel tool to do so. The indexing jig should work in either orientation.

Tablesaw blades routinely are sharpened only on the face of the tooth, regardless of grind type.

John

[Jamie Buxton]

..Tablesaw blades routinely are sharpened only on the face of the tooth, regardless of grind type...

Yes, sharpening the face of a triple-chip tooth should sharpen all three cutting edges. But sharpening the back of the tooth can't, as I see it.

[Gary Petersen]

Thanks for the pictures of the jigs, guys. Well done. To index the blade, do you just slide the jig away from the blade, index the blade, then slide the jig back in until the Dremel disk just touches the tooth?

[Bob Falk]

Thanks for the pictures of the jigs, guys. Well done. To index the blade, do you just slide the jig away from the blade, index the blade, then slide the jig back in until the Dremel disk just touches the tooth?

I had the same question. Nice jig

[John TenEyck]

Yes, you slide the Dremel tool away from the blade, lift the blade and index the next tooth on the hinge plate, then slide the Dremel tool until the diamond disk just kisses the tooth. I usually make two or three light taps of the disk on each tooth, then repeat the process. The Dremel tool slides against the fence to maintain a square orientation to the tooth.

How do you know you've actually sharpened the tooth? You can see it if you look closely. You'll see a facet on the beak of a dull tooth. You've sharpened it enough when that facet is removed and the beak of the tooth has a sharp corner.

John

[John TenEyck]

Derek, I've watched some sharpening videos recently, and there was mention that one should not disregard the gullets,
as it's there where the micro fractures will start from.
Have you noticed this?


Tom, as far as I know the blade manufacturers only sharpen the tooth when you return a carbide tipped blade. You are correct that micro fractures can develop in the band which, if they grow large enough, will cause the blade to break. I see this all the time with my sawmill blades which typically break after 8 to 10 running hours, whether or not I regrind the gullets during resharpening. When the blades do fail it's always in the gullet somewhere. Often, the blades are so fatigued that they easily break just folding the blade band back on itself and squeezing it in my hands.

To date, I have not had a carbide blade break on my shop bandsaw from fatigue. (The tension is about 25 ksi, and it's just about the same on my sawmill blades.) I did have one break because of a poor weld, but that's a separate issue. I can't say for sure how many hours of run time I have on this one, but it's about 2 years old and I've sharpened it twice so far, only the teeth. Looking at as part of this conversation, I see that it's in need of another sharpening.

All blades eventually will break from fatigue. How many hours that takes is probably confounded by many factors, but heat is a key factor. I know that a sharp blade cuts more efficiently, meaning it cuts faster and generates less heat, than a dull one. Sharpening the blade or sending it out if you don't want to do it yourself, when needed, makes sense to me to maximize blade life.

John

[John K Jordan]

…micro fractures can develop in the band which, if they grow large enough, will cause the blade to break. I see this all the time with my sawmill blades which typically break after 8 to 10 running hours…

Yikes, I don’t remember breaking a blade on my Woodmizer. Makes me wonder what the difference is. Manual vs power feed? I have a manual LT15, the blades are from Woodmizer.

[John TenEyck]

Yikes, I don’t remember breaking a blade on my Woodmizer. Makes me wonder what the difference is. Manual vs power feed? I have a manual LT15, the blades are from Woodmizer.

John, I use Woodmizer blades, too, on my Woodland Mills manual mill. About 24 ksi.

John

[John TenEyck]

OK, today I reconfigured the sharpener so that it can sharpen the face of the tooth.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEU5JOD0_lbKkg_CvSd_7_gElvvp8KZ7krbyb8l_t4q3Tz LtFa_Y07Q5FB8zZKO1Zxe6Ehufex1nRLs7RlLNmUfGOz0JavcB lxszWAuLXSh-nwacvcbczzzYN2XEiwOIKbY4Q9BAe-6vjmlFP_i4RLL7TA=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

I adjusted the sharpening disk so that it's parallel with the face of the tooth. The depth is set just a smidge deeper than the depth of the carbide insert.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/AL9nZEWL3irI7X-0sBiUAiKK1TWl5Z2jIXnuwW8eBXiiPmEleh_18olNUFUoFH3Lm McZUMBminlBRp2ea7z-5gcCsUHiTfo_co25Ttbc_eDa-nOYNFnWOxuo79Toa7DgESy7nCo5pAloh-c0FK7xddluwowECg=w1470-h828-no?authuser=1

The hinge plate limits how low the blade can be pulled down and, thus, limits how much is ground off during sharpening. It all has to be set up with a careful eye, but it works fine. Here's a short video of it in action.


https://photos.google.com/u/1/share/AF1QipOfqNF0Qgw6oWEW_Xm5RUFAvgm_T7dXZ8jK3AC1zM7nsY o0szvVU1fvc8lxmSrd5g/photo/AF1QipPUmGvR9VCDn-ZkvJO-iVlUHWAiFveNTbSkc9uL?key=M0NEY3hsVmtYam91UmxPb1N5M 1hNT3dCY2tGMDNn

John

[Scott T Smith]

Re Laguna Resaw King bands, I've used them and their resharpening services for years. Around 3 years back they relocated their resharpening operations from California to South Carolina. Subsequently I started having a lot of problems with resharpening quality, which Laguna always rectified. Most of these I attributed to the learning curve for the new employees in SC.

I never had a problem with chipped teeth - only sharpening angles and tooth set.

Hopefully they will respond and make it well for you.

Although I sharpen my own bands for the sawmill, I've found that a major sharpening service can do a better job on my carbide tipped blades than I can, so I send them out.

Resaw King bands are still the best for resawing, IMO. Coming off of my dedicated resaw, tolerances across a 12" slice of veneer are within a few thousands of an inch and the kerf marks left by the bands are all but invisible. Lennox Tri-master's aren't bad but kerf marks are notably greater than the RK's.

[Tom Trees]

Interesting to note you folks not being too concerned regarding cleaning out the gullets.
I'm going to have to re-watch some youtubes, TC sawmills videos I seen this mentioned.(IIRC)
Perhaps this is just an issue with large mills rather than the mere 25000 PSI at best, in which the stouter of "narrow bandsaws" occasionally require.

I note seemingly no burr on those gullets of the CT, so I wonder if that might have something to do with it...
i.e the sawyers at the mill, having to do a lot more grinding than most creeker workshop folk, to get past the tooth damage of regular carbon blades
and therefore the heavier grind (presumably) leaves a greater burr, which I haven't seen mention of.

Not sure if you guys CT blades started out with crisped edged gullets, or if they infact are still sharp, or other factors, possibly the steel used,
or whatever, but you're certainly giving a better argument to leave the gullets alone...
Should it be the case,

Another thing I'd like to know is if regular blades are treated by such carbide tipped sharpening enthusiasts :D
with the exact same way/methodology.

Apologies in advance for potentially starting up a sharpening debate, LOL

Just incase ones pondering whether to wish for a chainsaw sharpener or a dremmel tool from santa.

Seasons greetings to ye
Thanks again
Tom

[John Lanciani]

I would encourage anyone who is dry grinding carbide to at least read up on the possible safety implications of doing so. Easy enough to protect yourself, but tungsten carbide dust is not innocuous.

[Melvin Feng]

I'll just add my experience with Laguna. I have an 18BX and keep two 1.25" resaw kings on hand, one that I'm using, and one as a spare to put on while the other is sent out, or if I destroy the one on the saw. Depending on how much I use it, a blade will last 8 months to a year for me before needing to be sharpened. I have one that has been sharpened twice now, and a brand new one because the previous one I had was welded incorrectly and had a forward/backward oscillation, so they sent me a new one.

I personally haven't had any problems with the sharpening service, but I've only used them twice, once in california, and once in south carolina, and I do believe they sharpen on site, but that is from memory, and things could have changed.

I will say that my overall experience with Laguna customer service has been very spotty - sometimes things are done well and communicated well, but most of the time, it is left to me to follow up and make sure they follow through, otherwise nothing gets done, and very little is communicated. This has been especially true with my 12/16 lathe that I've had a number of issues with, which made dealing with customer service very frustrating. Due to my experience, I do not plan on buying any more Laguna equipment, and I hope to replace my lathe once I've saved up enough. The only item I plan on continuing to purchase from Laguna is the Resaw king, and their sharpening service, but I will definitely keep an eye out for their quality the next time I send out a blade.

[John TenEyck]

Yikes, I don’t remember breaking a blade on my Woodmizer. Makes me wonder what the difference is. Manual vs power feed? I have a manual LT15, the blades are from Woodmizer.

Well wouldn't you know it the Woodmaster CT on my bandsaw broke today, right at the weld. Both blades I've purchased from Spectrum Supply have now broken at the weld. Not a good trend. I heard it start talking; tick, tick, tick, and I knew I should turn off the saw, but thought oh, I can finish the last few veneer cuts on this board. Wrong. Bang. Broken.

This blade is about 2 years old, I think, I've sharpened it twice, and cut a LOT of veneer with it, but still.

John

[Brian Gouldman]

Following up to close out this thread. Just received a replacement blade from Laguna today. I reported via the form on their website on 12/10. The email back and forth was fairly responsive with just a few back and forth exchanges over the first couple weeks. So I’ve been made whole and am satisfied with the response and experience for the claim.

Thanks for everyone that added to the thread, especially the jigs for diy carbide sharpening. I definitely plan to copy this for the future.

[Justin Rapp]

Following up to close out this thread. Just received a replacement blade from Laguna today. I reported via the form on their website on 12/10. The email back and forth was fairly responsive with just a few back and forth exchanges over the first couple weeks. So I’ve been made whole and am satisfied with the response and experience for the claim.

Thanks for everyone that added to the thread, especially the jigs for diy carbide sharpening. I definitely plan to copy this for the future.

The only issue, it took them a month to fix a simple issue. I am a big fan of Laguna but this just bugs me. I get it, there were holidays in the middle, but your replacement blade should have been in your hands within a week.

[John TenEyck]

The only issue, it took them a month to fix a simple issue. I am a big fan of Laguna but this just bugs me. I get it, there were holidays in the middle, but your replacement blade should have been in your hands within a week.

I think this is the new norm by a lot of companies. Ignore, procrastinate, ask for unrelated details, then more follow-ups by a different department, all in an effort to get the customer to drop their claim. Or just plain deny the problem was their fault. Sad by increasingly true.

John

[Justin Rapp]

I think this is the new norm by a lot of companies. Ignore, procrastinate, ask for unrelated details, then more follow-ups by a different department, all in an effort to get the customer to drop their claim. Or just plain deny the problem was their fault. Sad by increasingly true.

John

I just had a warranty thing with my dust collector not too long ago and we spent a day or so of back and forth debugging. Once we got the isolated issue, they just sent me an entire control panel assembly anyway and it was in the mail the next morning. So I would not expect them to have any desire to piss off a customer over the cost of a bandsaw blade.