Slider attachment AND crosscut sled?

[John Kananis]

I picked up a Harvey slider attachment for my unisaw over the summer and just getting around to unboxing and installing. I'm going to need to shift my outfeed table over to the right and I'm wondering if I should route new dadoes for sled runners (extending the miter slots) or will the slider fence suffice for what I usually use a sled for? Thanks in advance.

[Jim Becker]

You will still want/need the sled as these add-on sliders are not up against the blade and for really small work, a sled is also safer and easier to use. I have a native sliding table saw and still use certain kinds of sleds for utility and safety for that reason.

[John K Jordan]

You will still want/need the sled as these add-on sliders are not up against the blade and for really small work, a sled is also safer and easier to use. I have a native sliding table saw and still use certain kinds of sleds for utility and safety for that reason.

I second what Jim said. I have a Robland sliding table attachment on my PM66 and while it is great, especially for plywood and crosscutting longish stock, a crosscut sled is more precise and far better for small things.

JKJ

[John Kananis]

Thank you, gentlemen. I was thinking I could just attach a small base of ply to the slider fence for small stuff and burn my sleds so I have room for more "stuff" but wishful thinking I suppose.

[John Kananis]

Not finished installing it yet but it looks like the slider sits a tiny higher than the saw's table. As it stands, I'll either have to shim my sleds or have to adjust the blade every time I use one.

[John Kananis]

The more I think about this, the more I don't like it. Why would they design it this way? I'm assuming so that the fence doesn't mar the table saw? I'm considering modifying the design to make everything flush. Anyone see any issues with this?

[Jim Becker]

It's normal for a slider to be slightly proud of the saw table surface and it's not an issue on a "true" sliding table saw. But with an add-on that isn't close to the blade because of how a North American cabinet saw is designed, it does indeed cause some challenges with sleds, etc. It's not something specific to the one you bought...it's the nature of the beast.

[John Kananis]

Thanks for the insight, Jim. Do you see any issues with modifying for flush mount? Or leave as is? I don't mind the fence touching the table.


It's normal for a slider to be slightly proud of the saw table surface and it's not an issue on a "true" sliding table saw. But with an add-on that isn't close to the blade because of how a North American cabinet saw is designed, it does indeed cause some challenges with sleds, etc. It's not something specific to the one you bought...it's the nature of the beast.

[Jim Becker]

It's not so much about the fence touching the table as it is about holding the material you are cutting off the table so the "sliding" thing goes smoothly. :) If this is actually adjustable, I see no major harm in you experimenting other than operation that is less smooth.

[John Kananis]

Yeah, that's the thing... there isn't anything adjustable about the setup. Only one mounting hole lines up so I have to drill the other two = permanent. So I would just elongate the first hole. Ugh... decisions.

Edit: the difference is about a sheet of laminate or two.


It's not so much about the fence touching the table as it is about holding the material you are cutting off the table so the "sliding" thing goes smoothly. :) If this is actually adjustable, I see no major harm in you experimenting other than operation that is less smooth.

[Jim Becker]

Edit: the difference is about a sheet of laminate or two.
That seems like a lot to me...but I've never owned an add-on sliding attachment like that. The different in height on my sliding table saw is "not much", but there.

[John Kananis]

I thought so too. Thinking about leaving a playing card's difference and just laminating some(thing) that thickness to the right half of the sleds.

[Jim Becker]

Some thin and slippery high density plastic might be just the ticket.

[John Kananis]

That sounds great on paper but that stuff doesn't like glue lol

Edit: unless you know some secret sauce?

[Jim Becker]

I believe there is a self-stick tape available for this kind of thing.

[John Kananis]

Oh really? Good info. I may have to wait on drilling until I can figure out material thickness of the plastic and tape. Done for the weekend so just changing some things in the shop. I'll play. Thanks again for the help.

[Wes Grass]

I've got a 'native born' slider, but have owned and used several 'conventional' table saws.

As noted, the slider should be a hair above the main table, like a sheet or 2 of heavy paper. If you consider the angle difference between the higher sliding table and the main table over the 12-15 inches past the blade, it's roughly zero. Probably less than the 'flatness', or lack thereof, of the base of the sled. Although adding a strip of 'slippy' tape sounds like a great idea to me.

And, since it's a conventional table saw to begin with, with a couple of miter slots, I think I'd just pull off whatever crosscut fence the sliding table attachment has and use the sled you already have for simple square cuts. Same goes for a miter sled if you've already got one. Use the slots you've got. I can't, no slots. So any sled I want to build has to register off the sliding table.

As for drilling mounting holes, unless you're a total machinist/toolmaker geek like me and build drill fixtures with interchangeable bushings to get the hole locations perfect, drilling a 32nd, or more, oversize is the only practical solution.

Or worse ... My Laguna 16HD, mounting custom rails for my Felder extension tables. I later made the drill jigs to enlarge the tapped holes on my FB-600 to do the same. It wouldn't ft on the mill, and I couldn't lift it by myself anyway.

490906

[John Kananis]

I've got it to about a thick sheet of paper or so - i can live with that and maybe all i need is a few strips of blue tape to make the sleds right, if any.

I can make a jig based off the first hole and feel pretty confident about making two slightly oversized subsequent holes in the right placement. My back is done though so tomorrow. I'll also fish out a feeler gauge from... somewhere and see what difference I actually have in height.

Edit: that mill is beautiful btw

[John K Jordan]

That seems like a lot to me...but I've never owned an add-on sliding attachment like that. The different in height on my sliding table saw is "not much", but there.

My sliding attachment is even with the bed according to a straight edge. I think I remember some effort to get it mounted and aligned. If there is not enough adjustment maybe some bolt holes could be filed longer or some bracket ground (don't know how the other is attached).

[John Kananis]

John, that's good to hear. I have no issue with using a file. More to think about, thank you.

[Wes Grass]

Edit: that mill is beautiful btw

Thanks. After *years* of working with worn out junk ... not 'junk' BTW, Monarch and LeBlond lathes, Gorton and Index mills ... just *worn out* ...

I promised myself I'd someday have a *brand new* 'top notch', lathe, mill, and surface grinder. Got the Lagun with a 40 taper spindle, modified the drawbar and drive keys to use my Cat-40 holders. I'd previously bought a really nice Graziano lathe at an auction. Not new, but really nice condition. Early 80's ... vs the newest Monarch which was made before I was born. My Grandfather bought the LeBlond before the war, I think. Dad still has the little Sheldon, with overhead drive, that Gramp's bought during the war. Had to get a friend to write him a letter that he was subcontracting G' work to him to get it. I think my dad still has a sample box of parts they made. Thousands of lock nuts for valve adjusters on rocker arms for radial engines. I don't remember what else. All out of his garage he built on their humble homestead, in the rural area of the SF Peninsula where the wealthy city folk had their weekend homes. They call it 'Atherton' ... I wonder what they'd think now of the home made table saw he drove with a flat leather belt off a pulley mounted to the crankshaft of his Model A Ford?

Still, maybe a new lathe, likely a Whacheon, but it's not a priority anymore. Still have a grinder on the list though. Need a building first ...