14 vs 17 inch bandsaw? Cast-iron vs aluminum Trunnions?

[Kory Watson]

I'm looking to get my first bandsaw. I haven't had luck in the used market ($900 for a 14 inch low end jet...), so looking at the new market.

Key things I'm looking for:
* Resaw capacity of at least 12''
* Buy once cry once is OK--wife won't let me buy a second one or replace this one anytime soon. Still would prefer to stay in the $1-2k range (preferably the low end)
* 110V is a must, I only have 1 220 outlet and that's for the 8'' jointer
* I have a relatively small garage (20x20) that we park a car in, so small-ish footprint and easily moveable base is a very nice to have

I have a few options I've narrowed it down to:

17''

Grizzly 2HP, 110V / pre-wired 220V (I will need to re-wire to 110V)
Grizzly G0513 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-bandsaw/g0513) - Aluminum Trunnions | $1,250 (super sale at 16% off, most affordable 17'' bandsaw I see on the market)
Grizzly G0513X2 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-bandsaw-w-cast-iron-trunnion/g0513x2) - Cast-Iron Trunnions | $1525 (are cast-iron trunnions worth $300?)
Grizzly G0513X2BF (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-extreme-series-bandsaw-with-cast-iron-trunnion-foot-brake-micro-switch/g0513x2bf) - Foot brake | $1795 (is a foot brake worth $300?)

---

14''
Grizzly G0817 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-14-super-hd-2-hp-resaw-bandsaw-with-foot-brake/g0817) - 2HP, 110V | $1649 (seems expensive compared to the 17'' line, no?)
Rikon 10-326 (https://www.woodcraft.com/products/rikon-14-deluxe-bandsaw-model-10-326) - 14'', 1.75HP, 110V | $1439 (on sale right now, seems like build quality is better than Grizzly?)
Laguna - I am not considering laguna because none of their saws are on sale right now.
Jet - I'm convinced I would go with the 14'' Rikon over the Jet that's also on sale.

-----

Do any of these options jump out to any of you?
I'm wondering if a 17'' is worth the extra space & price. As well, I'm wondering if the Aluminum Trunnions are *that* much of a dealbreaker. There's a pretty big savings over the cast iron with the sale going on.

Lots to navigate in this space... any help is appreciated. Thanks

[Myk Rian]

Cast iron has less flex. I never had a need for a foot brake.
A 14" will get you to 12" with a 6" spacer block.
If you can go with a 17", go for it. The footprint is not much more than a 14" saw.

[Dwayne Watt]

A foot brake is not 100% necessary, but spool down time can be quite long on a saw with 14" or larger drive wheels. My previous 14" bandsaw with aluminum wheels would spin down rather quick (within a few seconds), but my current saw (13" throat with 14" resaw capacity) has 15" cast iron wheels which spin for a LONG time after power is cut. I would not want such a saw without a brake. It is too easy to forget the blade is still moving long after the off switch has been hit.

[Earl McLain]

As a 14” owner, I’d gravitate towards a 17” given a choice. The Grizzly 513 spec sheet lists the 120v at 20 amps on a suggested 30 amp circuit. The foot brake version shows 240v only. 2 hp is a hefty load at 120v. Might consider ant of the 513’s and just replacing the power cord with longer (if needed to reach), and unplug the jointer to plug in the bandsaw since you won’t use both at same time. I tend to unplug tools at end of session anyway, so that’s normal for me. My single 240v circuit is used by table saw, band saw, RAS, and lathe. Longest cord is about 16’ and only the TS cord crosses the floor when it’s plugged in.
That 2 hp motor at 120v would not only need a bigger breaker, but likely heavier wire from box to receptacle. Staying 240v and 15’ of SJTOW and a plug will be a ton cheaper.
good luck!!

[Mel Fulks]

I’m all for safety. I worked in a couple of places where it was a big deal to walk away from a from a band saw without using the brake to
stop it first. At first hearing I thought that was nutty, but It is possible for a band -blade to break while while slowing down , and send some
blade footage flying out. Especially since many don’t bother to lower a too high guard position. Some commercial shops tell new guys they will be fired
at first infraction of safety rules.

[Mark Gibney]

I just looked on the Seattle craigslist and I see there's a Grizzly 1073 16" band saw for sale that looks in very good condition. It's $900, so not cheap.

There's also a Central Machine (Harbor Freight) 14" for $250, also not as cheap as I'd like to pay for that saw. But it also looks in very nice clean shape, and has a multi-speed pulley setup.

So that's about it! To me that's very low inventory, compared to what I can find on C'list down here in LA and the surrounding counties. Seems odd, metro Seattle has a big population.

I like the Grizzly a lot. It comes with a nice fence and a mobile base. Maybe keep an eye on it and if it's up there for a few weeks offer the seller a price you feel comfortable with. $500 would work for me for that saw.

[Mark Gibney]

I see the Grizzly on C'list has 7 1/2" max resaw height. And you cannot add a riser block so that might be something to consider if you think you'll want to resaw a lot of wider boards.
The 14" Central Machinery is a Delta clone of sorts and you can add a resaw block.

[Greg Parrish]

Since you are only 1.5 hours from Grizzly’s Bellingham, WA location, I’d see if they have a model there and go pick it up. Would save the $239 shipping cost.

[Jim Becker]

Since you can't use the jointer and the bandsaw at the same time unless someone else is working with you, there's no reason why you need to eschew a 240v bandsaw as long as it can run on the existing circuit's amperage rating. That means you can have a little more horsepower for things like resawing since the bigger motors are just not going to be able to run on 120v.

[Kory Watson]

Thanks all for the advice. Folks seem to be pushing for the 17'' 240V. I was indeed planning to head to Bellingham to pick a Grizzly up, since they're all available there :)

My second Q, is if I could get help differentiating between these Grizzly options. Are the foot brake and cast iron trunnions each worth $300? Which would you choose?

[Greg Parrish]

I think the big difference is stepping to the $1525 mid model. It adds these items over the $1250 base model.

> cast iron wheels
> better resaw fence
> double bearing guides
> cast iron trunion

The next step up to $1795 adds the following:
> mechanical/electrical brake
> switch with key
> true 2 hp 220v motor


I’m going through a similar choice right now and have a thread running on 14” saws. I previously had the $1795 version of the grizzly and it is a nice saw. Fit and finish is better on the laguna saws i think, but the grizzly has a lot of bang for the buck in comparison. I’m still trying to decide if I go get a 14” laguna tomorrow or just order the grizzly and wait. I’m even considering the 15” Jet now, but it doesn’t appear to have a brake. I hate making these decisions too but if I could just go get it at the store, I’d get the $1795 grizzly and call it done (if shipping were not a factor)

[Alex Zeller]

The foot brake is more than just safety. Often I have split a board into two and both of my hands are busy holding the boards. Simply stepping on the brake shuts the saw off. I usually put a little extra pressure to slow it down but all the way to a stop. I guess it's a mentality. I don't like leaving tools running when I step away from them unless there's no other option. Also having a key is great. I have a magnet next to the blade tension lever and that's where the keys reside when not in use. When I go to use it and reach for the key I know to check to make sure the blade is tensioned. If I see the key in the switch I know I didn't remove tension the blade.

I don't think the 17" has a much larger footprint than the 14" models. But larger diameter wheels are easier on the blade. The only bad thing I can say about my 19" Grizzly is the original urethane tires were bad. The machine vibrated like crazy. But I bought it with a 10% off discount so I purchased some Blue Max replacements (never called Grizzly to get replacements) and now it's so smooth I can start it with a dime on edge, let it get up to speed, and shut it off without it falling over.

[Mike Cutler]

Personally, none of those choices is what I would recommend.
You will not get $$$$ in performance with either the CI trunnions, or the foot brake. Spend your $$$$ on the wheels and the motor.
If resaw is what you want, go 3Hp minimum, and cast iron wheels, and don’t even consider a 14” open bandsaw for resaw. I have a highly tuned Jet 14”, and it is woefully inadequate for resawing. It’s too slow and limited.My 18” bandsaw is for resaw only.
Bandsaws are like jointers. Get the biggest, heaviest, one you can fit in your shop, and afford.

[andy bessette]

Personally, none of those choices is what I would recommend.
You will not get $$$$ in performance with either the CI trunnions, or the foot brake. Spend your $$$$ on the wheels and the motor.
If resaw is what you want, go 3Hp minimum, and cast iron wheels, and don’t even consider a 14” open bandsaw for resaw. I have a highly tuned Jet 14”, and it is woefully inadequate for resawing. It’s too slow and limited.My 18” bandsaw is for resaw only.
Bandsaws are like jointers. Get the biggest, heaviest, one you can fit in your shop, and afford.

Good post. 14" limits you on blade choice and is usually underpowered. Throat is not as important as larger wheel diameter. Blades last much longer when not bent around a small wheel.

Also shoot for better a quality used machine. My 20" Agazzani cost me ~$1700.

And, like Jim said, get 230-volts. You are not going to run the bandsaw and jointer at the same time.


!

[Bill Dufour]

I would make a short tee extension cord for the 240 outlet. That opens up a wealth of three phase options for the saw. What supply amps for the 240 outlet. I would look for 1-5 hp three phase bandsaws, used.
Pretty much if it came factory three phase it is well designed. Three phase with a vfd gives power brakes to any motor. So one less feature to shop around for and restrict your choices.
BilL D

https://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/tls/7551972093.html

[Rod Wolfy]

Just get a plug for a 240v and take the 30 seconds to switch the plug out. I have had 4 bandsaws. A 14" is a great start, as you can run a narrow blade for tight curves. I think resawing is a bit overrated. I rarely do it in over 20 years of woodworking. My former Agazzani & my current 21"/5hp Grizzly both have brakes & that is a very important feature, as otherwise it takes a while for a blade to spin down. Definitely cast iron & preferably a bigger motor. I have had 2 Jet 14" bandsaws, one of which is currently in my shop.

If I had to pick one, I'd get an 18" Laguna or a 17" Grizzly. I've been to Grizzly a few times, as it's close (my wife is from B'ham), but you can swing by Woodcraft downtown to have a look at the Laguna.

[Justin Rapp]

Footbrake: I saw some posts about the brake being a safety feature. While it is a safety feature, safety is essential. A bandsaw that is almost wound down is pretty quite and even a few inches of that blade moving can mean a nasty cut.

Brand: I am also a big fan of Laguna, but that is my choice and have 3 Laguna machines. Their bandsaws are top notch and while they are not on sale now, it might be worth the extra over Grizzly. I never owned a Grizzly product but almost pulled the trigger many times on a Grizzly tool, but hesitate right as I am about to hit 'purchase' on my cart. Something about the reviews on some of their products keeps a tarnished view in my mind. I am sure many of their products are top notch also. After Laguna, Rikon seems to have a very big following and while I don't own one, it was my 2nd pick after Laguna. But it was a 3hp model that had a foot brake. I don't remember the model # off hand. FYI - Laguna has an outlet, and they don't list all the machines on their web site. You have to contact them. The outlet is usually machines that were in a trade show or other and work perfect, full warranty etc and cost 20% less than current retail price. The e-mail address is on their web site. Usually Morgan@Laguna will respond pretty fast.

Power/Electric: I also agree with Jim on using the same 220v circuit for both tools. I have two 220v circuits, on is dedicated to the dust collector. The second I use for both my bandsaw and my table saw. Technically you can have two outlets on a 220v circuit as long as you don't over-draw the capacity of the circuit. I only have 1 outlet and just plug in the tool I am using at the time. Also check the owner's manuals. You can extend the cords on the motor, either hard-wire with a longer cord or the proper size extension cord. I have a 220v extension to get to my table saw. To be safe, go up a gauge on an extension cord (Use 12 guage if the requirement is 14 guage)

Cast Iron vs Aluminum: You say your wife won't let you upgrade so don't get Aluminum. It's used for lower price point saws for a reason.

Good luck with your new toy and enjoy it.

[Cary Falk]

I loved my G0513x2. It just became too small when I wanted more resaw height.

[Kory Watson]

I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away. Maybe that's a good choice? A little worried about the mobility bit looks nice otherwise.

[Jim Becker]

I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away. Maybe that's a good choice? A little worried about the mobility bit looks nice otherwise.
I own one from 2004 and have enjoyed it. The only real issues they have been on that saw that I can recall clearly are some switch failures, but the unit has 12" of resaw generous power (and can run on a 20 amp 240v circuit unlike the current version which requires 30 amp) and is a beast. The native mobility is "less convenient" than is desired in some situations, but if that's super important, one can opt to use an aftermarket mobile base for the machine.

[glenn bradley]

Thanks all for the advice. Folks seem to be pushing for the 17'' 240V. I was indeed planning to head to Bellingham to pick a Grizzly up, since they're all available there :)

My second Q, is if I could get help differentiating between these Grizzly options. Are the foot brake and cast iron trunnions each worth $300? Which would you choose?

I have two G0513X bandsaws. One has the steel trunnions and one has the cast iron. Both use the same hardened steel teeth for the tilt function. I have never noticed any difference between them. Oddly the steel trunnion machine is my resaw machine that does the heavier work. No difference as far as actual user experience. I believe the CI trunnion was a response to the early reviews as that was one of the only things reviewers could find to complain about. Suspect this feature to be more marketing value than actual value. I have enjoyed the steel trunnion machine for over 15 years.

490499

The CI trunnion machine (a G0513X2) is a more recent addition.

490498

[John C Bush]

HappyThanksgiving!
I just bought a Griz 17" BS during their last sale. I have a Griz 21"er dedicated to resaw and wanted a smaller saw for multiple blade sizes without having to reset the resaw blade. I have an Inca 10"er that is a great machine--and is available for sale!!- but is too small for turning blanks etc. I haven't used the new saw much yet but so far it is a good value. I live in Edmonds and you are more than welcome to come up and give it a test drive if you wish. I picked mine up in Bellingham and hauled it home in my utility trailer but didn't get the chance to try it out. I have had great success with the 21" saw so that was good enough for me. Let me know if interested--may even have some pecan and pumpkin pie left over if you hurry. Best wishes, John

[John TenEyck]

Cast iron has less flex. I never had a need for a foot brake.
A 14" will get you to 12" with a 6" spacer block.
If you can go with a 17", go for it. The footprint is not much more than a 14" saw.


You need to read up: https://material-properties.org/carbon-steel-vs-cast-iron-comparison-pros-and-cons/

To make it easier:

Young’s Modulus of ElasticityYoung’s modulus of elasticity of low-carbon steel is 200 GPa.

Young’s modulus of elasticity of gray cast iron (ASTM A48 Class 40) is 124 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity of martensitic white cast iron (ASTM A532 Class 1 Type A) is 175 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity of malleable cast iron – ASTM A220 is 172 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity ductile cast Iron – ASTM A536 – 60-40-18 is 170 GPa.

So steel is 14 - 61% stiffer than cast iron, depending upon which one is used. Combine that with the larger cross sections used in steel frame bandsaws and the advantage is obvious.

John

[Justin Rapp]

You need to read up: https://material-properties.org/carbon-steel-vs-cast-iron-comparison-pros-and-cons/

To make it easier:

Young’s Modulus of Elasticity

Young’s modulus of elasticity of low-carbon steel is 200 GPa.

Young’s modulus of elasticity of gray cast iron (ASTM A48 Class 40) is 124 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity of martensitic white cast iron (ASTM A532 Class 1 Type A) is 175 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity of malleable cast iron – ASTM A220 is 172 GPa.
Young’s modulus of elasticity ductile cast Iron – ASTM A536 – 60-40-18 is 170 GPa.

So steel is 14 - 61% stiffer than cast iron, depending upon which one is used. Combine that with the larger cross sections used in steel frame bandsaws and the advantage is obvious.

John

The compare was cast iron to aluminum, not cast iron to steel.

[Curt Harms]

I've seen very few bad reviews on the Grizzly 17" saws and some of those had to do with shipping damage which would not be an issue. That MM16 would surely be tempting though, that seemed to be the standard in midsize band saws a few years ago. I have a Rikon 10-325 and it will resaw up to 12" - I resawed about 9" because that's how wide the widest board I've tried - but I better not be in a hurry.

[Greg Parrish]

I own one from 2004 and have enjoyed it. The only real issues they have been on that saw that I can recall clearly are some switch failures, but the unit has 12" of resaw generous power (and can run on a 20 amp 240v circuit unlike the current version which requires 30 amp) and is a beast. The native mobility is "less convenient" than is desired in some situations, but if that's super important, one can opt to use an aftermarket mobile base for the machine.

The one I had was the 4.8hp 30amp version and honestly I thought it was a pain. Had to deal with a power cord the size of a paper towel roll and install a dedicated 30amp circuit. That is a lot for a small garage type shop. However, the positive side was that it would tension a huge blade for the smaller size of the saw and it didn’t stop no matter what you threw at it. If you can get the 3.6hp MM16 for $1400 that would be hard to pass up if its in good shape and includes the fence and what not. Hard to go wrong with a Minimax.

For price and condition comparison, here is one that sold in 2018 for $1700 with the 3.6hp motor. $1,400 is a great deal if its clean. https://forums.woodnet.net/showthread.php?tid=7344853

[andy bessette]

I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away...

This is WAY better than your first choices.

[Jim Becker]

The one I had was the 4.8hp 30amp version and honestly I thought it was a pain. Had to deal with a power cord the size of a paper towel roll and install a dedicated 30amp circuit.

My machine circuit in the shop is "standard" on 30 amp and 30 amp twist locks. They are pretty much the same size as 20 amp twist locks. :) My only 240v machine that doesn't have a twist lock currently is the compressor and I may change that in the new shop because I have the hardware lying about to do so.

[Greg Parrish]

My machine circuit in the shop is "standard" on 30 amp and 30 amp twist locks. They are pretty much the same size as 20 amp twist locks. :) My only 240v machine that doesn't have a twist lock currently is the compressor and I may change that in the new shop because I have the hardware lying about to do so.

Makes perfect sense in your case Jim, since you are designing a new shop around your tools. 30 amps gives your ability to have larger motors/equipment. But in the average small hobby garage shop, the larger 30 amp circuits and associated cords can be more challenging than 20 amp circuits. Regardless, I’m happy to have 20amp 3hp and under equipment and circuits for everything now.

[John TenEyck]

The compare was cast iron to aluminum, not cast iron to steel.

Oh, my bad. Then it's even worse:

Young’s Modulus for steel (29 million PSI) is three times that of aluminum (10 million PSI). This means that for a fixed geometry, a part made out of steel will be three times as stiff as if it were made out of aluminum. In other words, an aluminum part under load will deflect three times as much as a similarly loaded steel part.

John

[Jim Becker]

Makes perfect sense in your case Jim, since you are designing a new shop around your tools. 30 amps gives your ability to have larger motors/equipment. But in the average small hobby garage shop, the larger 30 amp circuits and associated cords can be more challenging than 20 amp circuits. Regardless, I’m happy to have 20amp 3hp and under equipment and circuits for everything now.
Yes, that's true. But the lesson I learned with the old shop is that one doesn't need a whole bunch of circuits. I spent a lot of money on that and it was a waste in hindsight. For the new shop, I've chosen the "least common denominator" for my single "shared" machine circuit that's used for everything that will never be running at the same time as something else. One breaker; a bunch of outlets. This works even for a small shop. A 30 amp breaker is about the same cost as a 20 amp breaker; the #10 wire is a little more but the cost of the receptacles and plugs is about the same. Only the CNC, Compressor and DC have dedicated circuits. However, the same thing would apply if everything was only 20 amp and that was the desired setup for sure.

[Jim Morgan]

Actually, there are two comparisons in play: cast iron vs. aluminum wheels (several reasons why CI is superior), and steel vs. cast iron frame. The data that John cited show why steel is superior here. Is there even such a thing as a bandsaw with an aluminum frame?

[Terry Therneau]

A couple of small comments. 1. I used multiple plugs on a single outlet for a long while. It is not a large hassle, unless you have two machine where you go back and forth. An example was the jointer and table saw, for some jobs. Multiple outlets on the same circuit makes things even easier, and is electrically completely kosher. The breaker is sized to protect the wire: as long as you are running 1 machine at a time the wire load is the same for 1 outlet or a dozen. 2. Out of curiousity I looked on the Seattle craigsist, and there is a 20" Rockwell Delta in Friday Harbor. Those are a well regarded machine on the owwm.org list (Old Woodworking Machines). There was also an Oliver 217 (30"), a very, very nice machine, but likely outside your envelope on all 3 criteria of size, weight, and $. Those who have one seem to love them. (I have a 26" Moak myself, 1100 lbs). Terry T.

[Mike Cutler]

I found a MM16 2003 model (3.6hp) for $1400 a few hours away. Maybe that's a good choice? A little worried about the mobility bit looks nice otherwise.

That’s a nice saw. It’s hard to go wrong buying an MM.
At $1400.00 used, it’s a better saw than you will buy new for the same money.
Put a 3/4” Lennox TriMaster on it, and you’re set.

[Dave Sabo]

The compare was cast iron to aluminum, not cast iron to steel.




Oh, my bad. Then it's even worse:

Young’s Modulus for steel (29 million PSI) is three times that of aluminum (10 million PSI). This means that for a fixed geometry, a part made out of steel will be three times as stiff as if it were made out of aluminum. In other words, an aluminum part under load will deflect three times as much as a similarly loaded steel part.

John


The only issue for both you fellas is that the o.p. was mistaken...................none of those saws have an aluminum trunion, so the discussion is kinda moot.






Actually, there are two comparisons in play: cast iron vs. aluminum wheels (several reasons why CI is superior), and steel vs. cast iron frame. The data that John cited show why steel is superior here. Is there even such a thing as a bandsaw with an aluminum frame?

Sure - INCA saws invented the category if I'm not mistaken. And they are/were absolute gems for what they were designed for - which was not bragging bout bandsaws on social media or WW forums on how big your d^%w is , how much H.P. it has, or resawing "free" 16" diameter logs you got from your backyard (or neighbors) so you don't have to buy wood.

[lowell holmes]

I have a 14" jet with a riser block and have no regrets. I would look around for a used machine and save money.

[Jim Becker]

I have a 14" jet with a riser block and have no regrets. I would look around for a used machine and save money.
He already made his purchase... :)

[Dave Sabo]

He already made his purchase... :)

Did he....... :confused:

It's not clear from the thread that he did, maybe you have some inside info ? Hopefully he drove as fast as he could to get the MM16 he talked/asked about, but I didn't take that post's "found" to mean "purchased".

[andy bessette]

Did he....... :confused:

It's not clear from the thread that he did, maybe you have some inside info ? Hopefully he drove as fast as he could to get the MM16 he talked/asked about, but I didn't take that post's "found" to mean "purchased".

Same here. Did he actually buy it? Photos?

[Greg Parrish]

He already made his purchase... :)

Jim, You might be confusing this thread with my 14” bandsaw thread. LOL. I made a purchase yesterday but don’t think the OP in this thread indicated a purchase yet. But I could be wrong. :)

[Jim Becker]

Jim, You might be confusing this thread with my 14” bandsaw thread. LOL. I made a purchase yesterday but don’t think the OP in this thread indicated a purchase yet. But I could be wrong. :)
"D'oh!"....yea, I must have thought I was still in your thread. Apologies, folks. Sheeh...musta been turkey coma or something. Yea, that's the ticket! :D :D :D

[Kory Watson]

Jim, You might be confusing this thread with my 14” bandsaw thread. LOL. I made a purchase yesterday but don’t think the OP in this thread indicated a purchase yet. But I could be wrong. :)

Unfortunately, the MM16 guy isn't responding. Was holding out in hope for a couple of days, but I guess it probably sold at some point but he didn't take the post down :(

Speaking of that... I have the opportunity to purchase a new 220V 14BX for $1600 + tax and shipping. Should I jump on that? :)
I don't even have a 220V outlet yet in the shop but I'll be putting one in soon.

[John Kananis]

That's an excellent price for that saw (14bx). Excellent.

[Rod Wolfy]

Kory, that would be a great saw and a good price.

If you're going to wire in 220v, then use 10 gauge wire & put a few in. As long as you don't have more than 1 machine running at once, your good. I had a 60 amp box put in my garage (main breaker is the far side of the house). I ran a 10g up the wall from the box, across the trusses above the ceiling, then down the wall about 20' away (other side of the garage). I put in a 30 amp breaker, as my bandsaw needed that much (5hp motor). But then I ran a wire from that outlet another 6" and put in another outlet. Not to code, but I could then plug my table saw into the second outlet and not mess with swapping them out. I'm not going to be operating both machines at the same time, but more convenient that going over & figuring out which one is plugged in at the moment.

[Myk Rian]

I’m all for safety. I worked in a couple of places where it was a big deal to walk away from a from a band saw without using the brake to
stop it first. At first hearing I thought that was nutty, but It is possible for a band -blade to break while while slowing down , and send some
blade footage flying out. Especially since many don’t bother to lower a too high guard position. Some commercial shops tell new guys they will be fired
at first infraction of safety rules.
When a saw band breaks, that's it. Tension and friction is lost and the blade stops. I've never seen, nor heard of one sending the blade flying.

[andy bessette]

When a saw band breaks, that's it. Tension and friction is lost and the blade stops. I've never seen, nor heard of one sending the blade flying.

Me neither.

[Kory Watson]

Update: I went with the 14BX deal.

Now I need to put in a 220V outlet…

Would have loved a 17” bandsaw, but upon seeing them in person at the store, they were way too big for my space.

[Rod Wolfy]

Congrats Kory. If you need info or help on the 220v, PM me. I'm about 1/2 hr north of Seattle.

[Greg Parrish]

Update: I went with the 14BX deal.

Now I need to put in a 220V outlet…

Would have loved a 17” bandsaw, but upon seeing them in person at the store, they were way too big for my space.

Congrats. Same saw I ended up getting last Friday. Wish I’d have had your discount though. Good deal!

[Kory Watson]

Too bad I haven’t wired in a 240V outlet yet. And gotta wait until Tuesday for the mobile base.

https://imgur.com/a/91LPP7s

[Mike Mason]

For many years I had the typical 14" cast iron Delta bandsaw with a 6" riser installed, and I never felt that I could resaw very well on it. A few years ago I purchased a Laguna 14/bx 14" steel frame bandsaw with 13" resaw capacity and installed a 3/4" wide carbide tooth blade that never leaves it. It's proven to be an exceptionally good machine for me; I not only can use it for resawing 12" wide hardwood boards in ~1/16" thick slices for veneering purposes, I find that I use it for lots of other things as well (including joinery) since the cuts are so smooth and accurate. One thing that I also now do is to rip any questionable boards on it, then run their edges over the jointer, for safety reasons. The physics of cutting on a bandsaw are such that it is probably the safest stationary power tool in the shop. FYI, I kept my old Delta and now use it only for cutting curves with a 3/16" wide blade.

[Scott T Smith]

When a saw band breaks, that's it. Tension and friction is lost and the blade stops. I've never seen, nor heard of one sending the blade flying.

I haven't had a problem with flying bands from my shop bandsaws, but the sawmill is a different story. Band tension is much higher (1,400 psi on a 2" hydraulic piston); I've seen bands shoot out of the dust collection chute on more than one occasion. For sure, when a band breaks it gets EVERYBODY'S attention at the sawmill!

[Anthony Whitesell]

Are you looking for your forever tool? I stopped a while back buying step-up tools (where you buy this now and plan to buy that bigger/better one later). My last step up purchase was my G0490. I should have gotten the G0490X (spiralhead instead of straight knife). In my defense, I had just purchased the G0513X2 bandsaw. I should have followed my self-imposed rule. Now I can't bring myself to spend the money on the spiral head and throw away the perfectly good straight knife head. I saved my pennies and purchase the Bosch 12" GSM, yeah only $60 more than the 10" but don't plan on replacing it. It's (hopefully) a forever tool. Not I have a 15" Jet planer and would like to install a spiral head in it. Same issue, I can't bring myself to throw away the perfectly good straight knife head. The upside on the planer is it was only $400, requiring some TLC to get it running again, so I have the "margin" to purchase the head. But still, what do I do with the old head?

With that said, would the 14" be a step up tool and you really want to get the 17" as a forever tool? Then save you $$$, wait for any type of sale from Grizzly and get the 17". I have the G0513X2. Likely a forever tool for me. Someday way way off maybe I I will have wished to have gotten the 19". So far I have never regretted getting the 17" over the 15", or regretted anything about the G0513X2.

As someone that has considered and made decisions based on very similar comments and questions, I leave you with this:

Aluminum vs cast iron: I don't know if there is a difference. They saw the high mass is helpful when at the machine limits (some say upon reach 51% of the machine limits). Do I think the cast iron wheels would be more durable than the aluminum? Yes, I do. They are under a great deal of stress tensioning the band and using the saw.

Foot brake or no? The G0513X2BF was not out when I purchased my G0513X2. Would the foot brake be nice? Definitely. I can say first hand the saw takes quite a while to slow down, especially after a blade snaps. Would I like to have the foot brake? Yes. Is the foot brake worth an additional $270? I don't know. That is a tough one, IMO.





17''

Grizzly G0513 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-bandsaw/g0513) - Aluminum Trunnions | $1,250 (super sale at 16% off, most affordable 17'' bandsaw I see on the market)
Grizzly G0513X2 (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-bandsaw-w-cast-iron-trunnion/g0513x2) - Cast-Iron Trunnions | $1525 (are cast-iron trunnions worth $300?)
Grizzly G0513X2BF (https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-17-2-hp-extreme-series-bandsaw-with-cast-iron-trunnion-foot-brake-micro-switch/g0513x2bf) - Foot brake | $1795 (is a foot brake worth $300?)