Adjusting Old Stanley Square

[Kris Cook]

I have a Stanley No. 20 square I picked up somewhere. It is out of square. Is there a way to reliably adjust it or should I just hang it on the wall?

[Jim Koepke]

I have a Stanley No. 20 square I picked up somewhere. It is out of square. Is there a way to reliably adjust it or should I just hang it on the wall?

Kris, is the blade loose? If this is the case it is likely going to be a wall hanger.

How are you checking the square and how much out of square is the blade?

If you are testing with the stock against a true straight edge and checking by drawing one line and flipping the square to draw another, any difference you see is double the error. I have fixed squares like this with very careful, light filing.

If you have a good, long straight edge you can use that to extend a much longer line to help make your square even more accurate.

If the square has been used a lot, one edge of the blade may be more out of square than the other. (in other words the edges of the blade may not be parallel)

jtk

[Mel Fulks]

Combination or Framing ? Seen lots of old tips on “adjusting “ framing squares in old wood mags and on line . But in this high -tech era
most guys give a non square to a friend . The tips I saw were mainly in 1950s and 60s. POPULAR magazines. I have filed a couple of
ridiculously thick and heavy squares and I use them . So used to the weight that once I momentarily borrowed an aluminum one from a fellow worker
and almost threw it as I picked it up.

[Mel Fulks]

Some old timers told me they trued framing squares by using a nail-set and hammer. I’m sure you can find several sets of directions in old
wood magazines. Or by listening to an ‘old timer’. I file them. You test accuracy by drawing a line on left then turn square the other way around to other side and check progress by seeing if both lines agree. But you hear them arguing….. get professional help !

[Kris Cook]

But in this high -tech era
most guys give a non square to a friend .

Jeez Mel, with friends like that, who needs enemas...

[Kris Cook]

Kris, is the blade loose? If this is the case it is likely going to be a wall hanger.

How are you checking the square and how much out of square is the blade?

If you are testing with the stock against a true straight edge and checking by drawing one line and flipping the square to draw another, any difference you see is double the error. I have fixed squares like this with very careful, light filing.

If you have a good, long straight edge you can use that to extend a much longer line to help make your square even more accurate.

If the square has been used a lot, one edge of the blade may be more out of square than the other. (in other words the edges of the blade may not be parallel)

jtk

Jim - the blade is parallel and it is tight. I may try filing it. Don't really need another square but hate to not be able to use it.

[Mel Fulks]

Jeez Mel, with friends like that, who needs enemas...

“Good Spellas”

[steven c newman]

As a USER of the Stanley #20 Miter Try squares..
490233
THESE are what the OP is talking about. Usually one uses the inside..
490234
(Yes, that edge was jointed straight, BTW) there are 2 lines marked here.

Sometimes, you will see a square with a beat corner...why?
490235
Because this is where the "Old Timers" would strike to adjust for square....more of a tap, check, tap, check...trying to close up a pair of lines..
490236
Re-check...
490237
Does not take much....

These squares can get out by the simple act of dropping them onto a floor....try not to do that..


Usually, I try to use the inside of the square for marking lines.....knife walls included.....

So..now we know what a Stanley #20 looks like. it is NOT a Framing Square...nor is it a "Combo" square......Properly called a Try Square, as in "Tried & True"

[Kris Cook]

Steven - the square is "open" >90 degrees. Seems like tapping to adjust would lead to a loose connection.

[Kris Cook]

“Good Spellas”

Spelling wuz intentional ;)

[Jim Koepke]

I have a Stanley No. 20 square I picked up somewhere. It is out of square. Is there a way to reliably adjust it or should I just hang it on the wall?

There are many types of squares:

490244

The two on the lower right are framing squares, not Stanley #20 type squares. The smaller one has a feature found on many framing squares, at the inside apex is a small hole. Near the apex hole is a larger hole provided for hanging the square on a nail. The hole at the apex was provided for inserting a nail punch and tapping to close the legs if they measure more than 90º. Other items like a cold chisel or nail could also be used to perform this task.

Tapping the outside apex of a framing square will spread the legs that measure less than 90º. This is likely why some old timers would employ this technique on other squares that were not made with this method of adjustment in mind.

The squares with wooden stocks (handles) are what Kris is asking for information on correcting.

The three squares on the left are combination squares. Those also can become out of square from the rule sliding back and forth. The better models of these have at least a couple features in common. One is the bodies and rules are hardened steel. Another is there are raised areas for the rule to set on. If the angle becomes other than 90º one or the other of these areas can be adjusted by filing or other abrasive means. Some are made very inexpensively and lacking either of these features. Of those, more have been tossed into the garbage than the few decent combo-squares remaining in my shop.

All squares with a means of adjustment can be brought into a ridiculously precise tolerance. This can be done by aligning a straight edge with the square's blade and using it to make the square true to however long the straight edge may be.

Imagine if you tune a square to being off less than 0.001" over a distance of three feet it will be quite adequate for something over 12". That is likely close enough for a bookshelf, table, desk or chair.

jtk

[Jim Koepke]

Jim - the blade is parallel and it is tight. I may try filing it. Don't really need another square but hate to not be able to use it.

Same here, I like to get them adjusted true. Then it feels better giving it to someone else instead of giving them a problem with which they have to handle.

jtk

[Mel Fulks]

I knew they tapped the steel framing squares (see the post…it’s really good!) But it’s dismaying to see how beat up those old rosewood
try-squares are usually found. They had to have been considered expensive. I’ve got several of them ,bought at yard sales, all are banged up.
Can’t stand to see the apparent vandalism , so I keep them in drawer , take them out occasionally, drop a tear and cuss. I’ve post this
before , but I worked in a shop that had a broken up table made of Santo Domingo mahogany veneered with rosewood ! Used both for
patching up other stuff.

[Lee Schierer]

Here's a video of a guy truing up a Try Square (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enEYzTXg2Jg).

[Jim Koepke]

Here's a video of a guy truing up a Try Square (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enEYzTXg2Jg).

Thanks Lee, that is pretty much how my method is done, though my file might be a little less aggressive than the one used in Wood by Wright's video.

jtk

[Kris Cook]

Thanks Lee, that is pretty much how my method is done, though my file might be a little less aggressive than the one used in Wood by Wright's video.

jtk

Thanks everyone. I got the square trued up with a file. As it turns out, the try square I had was a cheap plastic handled Stanley which I never used because I didn't trust it. I think this one is a keeper.

[Jim Koepke]

Good show Kris. You will likely run across more to tune up in the future. It is convenient to have a good set to cover all the sizes of lumber you use.

jtk

[Kevin Jenness]

To true up your try square, file the blade edges straight and parallel if necessary. Remove the brass piece on the inside and file or sand it. Replace and check results, then make the outside edge parallel to the brass. Take your time and check results often.