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Stew Denton
11-15-2022, 2:59 PM
Hi All,

I had to do some sanding this past week, but not much, and I learned a little at that time. What experiences have you had where you learned to sand better, faster, and with less work, etc.?

What I was doing was sanding some shelf support pieces that are going to be used in our pantry that I am building the shelves for. The little support parts were cut out of 2X4s to a size 5" long, 2&1/4" wide, and 1" thick. The 1" thick end grain was cut square, and then half of it was cut to a 45 degree angle to make them look less blocky. I needed to sand them because I cut the ends with my table saw, and they were a little rough. (I had used a plane on the other sides, and they needed no sanding.)

I did the first few one evening starting with 80 grit followed by 120 grit. The 120 was fine enough to do a good enough job for the intended use of the parts. The next evening as I was getting out the sanding stuff, I decided to start with 60 grit followed by 80, 100, and ending again with 120 grit.

I used about the same total number of sanding strokes with each of the two different sequences, and it took about the same amount of time with each sequence. However, the second set turned out quite a bit better than the first set. The 60 grit cut down the saw marks much better than starting with the 80 grit, and by not skipping any grit sizes each sequential cut size did a better job of smoothing out the scratches of the previous grit size than did skipping from 80 grit to 120 grit.

That said when I got through sanding using the 2nd sequence, I did touch up a small number of the parts with a small chunk of 120 where tiny rough spots remained, but these took just a tiny number of strokes. I did not touch up the ones from the first sanding method, although they needed it far worse than did the second set. I should have gone back and touched up that second set before putting on finish, but it is too late for that now.

I am thinking that in the future most of my sanding will be done without skipping any grit sizes. Thus I used half as many strokes with each the 60 and 80 as I had with the 80 alone on the first go round, and again half as many strokes with each of the 100 and 120 as I had used with the 120 alone on the first go round. I have several of the little rubber 3M sanding blocks, and have now marked each with a white paint pen by grit size so I can keep track of the grit size of sand paper on each sanding block.

At any rate, what things have you learned about sanding that make it easier, better, and faster. (Sanding is not one of my favorite woodworking tasks.)

Regards,

Stew

PS. (Added at 8:10 PM). Great comments below, thanks to all for the techniques that are listed below. I forgot to add that I was only sanding the end grain, both the end grain that was square to the grain and the end grain that was at 45 degrees to the grain. As mentioned above, I used a plane (old Stanley #4) to smooth the sides of the pieces, as I much prefer using a plane over any sanding.

Jim Koepke
11-15-2022, 3:08 PM
At any rate, what things have you learned about sanding that make it easier, better, and faster. (Sanding is not one of my favorite woodworking tasks.)

Sanding is also one of those things not on my favorites list.

What I have learned is to use a plane and shooting board as much as possible.

Shooting angles is easy:

489867

Easiest way to get clean mitered corners.

Shooting is easier, better and faster than sanding.

jtk

Ron Selzer
11-15-2022, 3:20 PM
few things I have learned over the years that work for me
15" wide belt sander with belts in 40,60,80,100,120 make my life a lot better
don't skip belts or try to do it all with one grit
multiple RO sanders, each one with a different paper and all with vacuum hook up
NO DRUM SANDERS FOR ME, have had different ones and they and me don't get along
have a stroke sander and an edge sander down in basement to try out if i ever get back on my feet again
Ron

Ben Ellenberger
11-15-2022, 3:27 PM
I keep some 150 and some 220 grit sandpaper for hand-sanding. For anything else I use scrapers or planes. For pretty much everything I do a card scraper seems faster, cleaner, and more pleasant than a powered sander.

Ron Selzer
11-15-2022, 3:31 PM
I keep saying I want to try hand planes and card scrapers. See some fantastic work done with them on here.

Tom M King
11-15-2022, 3:58 PM
I hate sanding, but it's hard to avoid completely. I just don't want to waste time when I have to do it, so I can get it behind me.

James Pallas
11-15-2022, 6:00 PM
Can’t remember when I was taught not to skip grits. I usually start with 60 and go from there. It’s a judgment thing sometimes you can start at 80 or 100. I cut blocks out of 3/4 ply or wood to fit 3x21 sander belts for 60, 80, 100. I use 2x4 blocks for the rest. Those belts seem to last a long time. I use a plane or scraper most times. Once you go to sanding of any kind your done with planes or scrapers unless you’re willing to pay the price of going to the stones with your blades. I try to do the same thing sharpening blades. Work through the grits a few strokes each and not spend long periods on to light of grit. You can do the same thing with sandpaper as you do with stones. Change you angle a little and you can easily see when you’re ready to move on.
Jim

Derek Cohen
11-15-2022, 6:41 PM
Hi All,

I had to do some sanding this past week, but not much, and I learned a little at that time. What experiences have you had where you learned to sand better, faster, and with less work, etc.?

Stew

Stew, it may come as a surprise to some that I own, and use, sanders. I prefer to use hand planes, and even to finish, but there are times when sanding is the preferred way.

My most-used sander is a vertical belt sander, which is used in shaping curves. For large areas, such as table tops, or veneered surfaces, I have a Mirka Ceros ROS, a Festo orbital sander, and then I have hand sanders. I am presently building two beds in Jarrah, and these will be sanded as the surfaces need some stain to darken the wood evenly. One cannot mix-and-match sanded with planed surfaces as this shows up when finish is applied.

https://i.postimg.cc/G2Ky09Hc/Mirka_Ceros.jpg

Two sanders, both 20-25 years old now! Festo ROS and Festo orbital, both forerunners of Festool sanders, and both work superbly …

https://i.postimg.cc/gcLXyYrG/Festo_ET_2E_ROS_and__RS400E_orbital.jpg

Generally, I do not sand below 120 grit. I am not sanding to remove wood, but sanding to finish surfaces .. surfaces which would have been shaped with hand planes or a planer/thicknesser. Generally I go 120-180-240-400. Sometimes I skip the 180. I can do this without leaving swirls as my method of sanding is sound.

There are four rules for sanding:

1. Begin with a reasonably low grit, but not so low that you have extra work to remove scratches. Then work through the grits, ensuring the scratch patten changes.

2. Always use dust collection. This is not simply to protect your lungs, but the remove and prevent dust accumulating under the sand paper. Dust here will introduce scratches and create more work, not to mention spoil the finish you are working to achieve. Even the Mirka hand sanding pads I use have provision for a dust hose.

https://i.postimg.cc/j5NSZQCy/FinishingTheDrawers_html_6237eaad.jpg

Dust us collected by a Festool CT26e, which has the advantage of being powered and having speed control. Even sanding, speed is dropped right down - too much suction will create stiction and the sander will struggle.

3. Use light downforce - essentially, let the sander do the work. Too much downforce will slow the sander and sanding, and likely lead to scratches. Along with this, watch the speed at which you sand - slower is better, as this gives the sand paper a chance to work. Sanding quickly may not sand anything at all!

4. A ROS is designed to be used across and with the grain, but it is not a final sander as it can leave very fine swirls. It is best to use an orbital or hand sander with the grain afterwards. Go to YouTube and have look at the way the car detailers sand paintwork. They work in U-shaped movements. This is to ensure that coverage is done evenly.

There is a fifth rule, which is really about when not to sand. This is close to sharp edges when the sanding pad is soft. Always and only in such cases use a hard sanding pad. Do not let the pad hang over the edge.

Lastly, my sandpaper of choice is Mirka Abranet mesh. It has good longevity and the very best dust through flow.

Regards from Perth

Derek