Bandsaw Blade for wet/green wood

[Justin Rapp]

I have some wet/green logs, about 5 to 6" in diameter and need to cut them into about 1/2" wide cookies for some projects my wife will be doing with her senior residents where she works. I did cut a bunch with a blade that was pretty worn so I didn't care if I toasted the blade. It is not of course gunked up and really not sharp so i'll replace it, but not use it on wet wood.

Any suggestions on a bandsaw blade that is good for wet/green wood. I need a 115" and max width is 3/4".

[Mel Fulks]

You need to order blades with just 2 teeth per inch .

[Justin Rapp]

You need to order blades with just 2 teeth per inch .

Mel,

I looked for 2tpi blades and found a Timber Wolf 2 TPI blade that is designed for green wood.


Timber Wolf® Band Saw Blade
1/2" x 2AS
Blade Designation: Roughing or Milling Green Wood/Logs

Thanks

Justin

[Mel Fulks]

Mel,

I looked for 2tpi blades and found a Timber Wolf 2 TPI blade that is designed for green wood.


Timber Wolf® Band Saw Blade
1/2" x 2AS
Blade Designation: Roughing or Milling Green Wood/Logs

Thanks

Justin

Glad to help ! Please be careful, not much chance of getting a “ cut” with that item …but it sure can tear off digits FAST !

[John K Jordan]

Justin, I process a lot of green wood on the bandsaw, usually for woodturning blanks that I dry before use. Thickness is up to 12”. I’ve been cutting up green wood for at least 15 years and have tried a variety of blades.

My blade of choice is 1/2” x 3tpi. I use Lennox blades, made up locally. I usually sharpen a blade 3 or 4 times before I replace it.

JKJ


I have some wet/green logs, about 5 to 6" in diameter and need to cut them into about 1/2" wide cookies for some projects my wife will be doing with her senior residents where she works. I did cut a bunch with a blade that was pretty worn so I didn't care if I toasted the blade. It is not of course gunked up and really not sharp so i'll replace it, but not use it on wet wood.

Any suggestions on a bandsaw blade that is good for wet/green wood. I need a 115" and max width is 3/4".

[Mel Fulks]

That’s good , only trouble with 1/2” saws is around here is you must resharpen them yourself ‘cuz the saw sharpen around here won’t do it .

[Bradley Gray]

I agree with John - 1/2" x 3TPI Lennox. That is the native blade on my old Crescent. I use it for almost everything.

[Justin Rapp]

My blade of choice is 1/2” x 3tpi. I use Lennox blades, made up locally. I usually sharpen a blade 3 or 4 times before I replace it.

JKJ

John,

Where do you get your blades sharpened? Is it worth the cost savings? My table saw blades cost me 30ish to sharpen, I suspect a 115" long blade, with the amount of teeth would cost more. And for a blade that cost 30 to 50 bucks, I couldn't see spending too much to resharpen it. I would understand a carbide blade that cost 150+.

tx

Justin

[John K Jordan]

I sharpen them myself - I’ve never sent one out for sharpening. I use a Dremel with a small (about 1” diameter?) abrasive metal-cutting disk.

The way I, and some others I know do it is easy (once you know how) - without removing the blade from the saw, raise the guides to give some working space then hold the Dremel so the flat side of the disk is at the same angle as the top of a tooth at the cutting edge. (I rest my hand on the table to keep it steady.) Touch the disk to the top of the tooth for a fraction of a second, grinding a very small flat. If done right this will grind away the dull cutting edge leaving a new, sharp edge. Pull down on the blade to advance to the next tooth and repeat. (I mark the starting point with a red sharpie or a piece of tape)

The advantage of this method is it’s basically free.

The disadvantages are each sharpening will narrow the kerf a tiny bit and since it’s done by hand slight inconsistencies can make the cut a little rougher. However this doesn’t make any difference for my use cutting woodturning blanks from green wood. Another disadvantage is it takes a while, especially for the long blades on my 18” saw.

I have sharpened blades up to 5 times but I generally discard them after 3-4 sharpenings.

I have a photo but not on this device. You can probably find it in previous threads with a search.

Someone posted pictures of a jig he made to hold the dremel - he slid it forward on the bandsaw table for each tooth. But I’ve always done it freehand. One person said he sharpens by grinding the gullet of the tooth but that seems like too much trouble to me.

JKJ


John,

Where do you get your blades sharpened? Is it worth the cost savings? …

[Bradley Gray]

I have not tried sharpening these myself, but i did send some out years ago. It was really cheap for the sharpening but the process removed the impulse hardened tip and the resulting edges dulled really quickly. The blades cost about $15 so i just replace them.

[John K Jordan]

I have not tried sharpening these myself, but i did send some out years ago. It was really cheap for the sharpening but the process removed the impulse hardened tip and the resulting edges dulled really quickly. The blades cost about $15 so i just replace them.

I haven’t tested the hardness (but I might). Those I sharpen seem to stay sharp about as long as the new blade. Maybe the Dremel method doesn’t heat the metal too much. The touch is very short, the speed high, and almost no pressure.

[Justin Rapp]

The advantage of this method is it’s basically free.

Another disadvantage is it takes a while, especially for the long blades on my 18” saw.


Thanks - that sounds like a painful process and free is good, but time isn't free or even cheap for me right now. It seems much more cost effective for me to replace the blade then spend, I am guessing an hour or so, to sharpen one.

[Jim Morgan]

The current "Tools & Shops" issue of Fine Woodworking features a Dremel-based jig for bandsaw sharpening as the lead workshop tip.

[John K Jordan]

…I am guessing an hour or so, to sharpen one.

I haven’t timed it lately. The last time I did I think it took less than 20 minutes to sharpen the 426 teeth on my 142” 3tpi blades.

I think it is worthwhile to learn the technique even if you don’t plan to use it often in case you find yourself with a dull blade and no replacement on hand.

Even though I usually buy multiple blades at a time I always have a new one on hand but I still sharpen. (The local Lenox blade shop doesn’t always stock the 3tpi stock so I have him order a 100ft coil which gives me eight blades that fit my saw. You could get ten 115” blades made for your saw from a 100’ of stock.)

Another thing is deciding when the blade is dull enough to make it worth changing or sharpening, not always easy since it can change so gradually. I talk about this briefly in the bandsaw video I did for a turning club demo. In case you’re interested the video is here: https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0

The video is about processing green logs into turning blanks. (I did the video in a bit of a rush with all new video gear and software so it has some rough edges. It’s also a bit long even with leaving out a lot I wanted to cover. I hope to do another very short video on sharpening.)

JKJ

[Prashun Patel]

Um, how are you cutting the cookies. I did that on the bandsaw a long time ago. Once.

The log rolled on me, jammed my finger and ruined the blade. I assume you are using some kind of bracing to prevent the log rolling. Right?

[Justin Rapp]

Um, how are you cutting the cookies. I did that on the bandsaw a long time ago. Once.

The log rolled on me, jammed my finger and ruined the blade. I assume you are using some kind of bracing to prevent the log rolling. Right?

I am using a miter gauge and holding the log against the miter gauge fence. I have more to cut and am going to make a sled to hold the log and ride in the miter slot.

[Justin Rapp]

I haven’t timed it lately. The last time I did I think it took less than 20 minutes to sharpen the 426 teeth on my 142” 3tpi blades.

I think it is worthwhile to learn the technique even if you don’t plan to use it often in case you find yourself with a dull blade and no replacement on hand.

Even though I usually buy multiple blades at a time I always have a new one on hand but I still sharpen. (The local Lenox blade shop doesn’t always stock the 3tpi stock so I have him order a 100ft coil which gives me eight blades that fit my saw. You could get ten 115” blades made for your saw from a 100’ of stock.)

Another thing is deciding when the blade is dull enough to make it worth changing or sharpening, not always easy since it can change so gradually. I talk about this briefly in the bandsaw video I did for a turning club demo. In case you’re interested the video is here: https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0

The video is about processing green logs into turning blanks. (I did the video in a bit of a rush with all new video gear and software so it has some rough edges. It’s also a bit long even with leaving out a lot I wanted to cover. I hope to do another very short video on sharpening.)

JKJ

Having 10 blades of the same type will most likely be more then I will ever need, at least for this project. I will watch the video - never stop learning.

[Bernie Kopfer]

The current "Tools & Shops" issue of Fine Woodworking features a Dremel-based jig for bandsaw sharpening as the lead workshop tip.
That is a well thought out jig. I’m looking forward to making and using it.

[Justin Rapp]

I haven’t timed it lately. The last time I did I think it took less than 20 minutes to sharpen the 426 teeth on my 142” 3tpi blades.

I think it is worthwhile to learn the technique even if you don’t plan to use it often in case you find yourself with a dull blade and no replacement on hand.

Even though I usually buy multiple blades at a time I always have a new one on hand but I still sharpen. (The local Lenox blade shop doesn’t always stock the 3tpi stock so I have him order a 100ft coil which gives me eight blades that fit my saw. You could get ten 115” blades made for your saw from a 100’ of stock.)

Another thing is deciding when the blade is dull enough to make it worth changing or sharpening, not always easy since it can change so gradually. I talk about this briefly in the bandsaw video I did for a turning club demo. In case you’re interested the video is here: https://youtu.be/4Rbdas-jtD0

The video is about processing green logs into turning blanks. (I did the video in a bit of a rush with all new video gear and software so it has some rough edges. It’s also a bit long even with leaving out a lot I wanted to cover. I hope to do another very short video on sharpening.)

JKJ

John,

Great Video!! It's educational and has a lot of useful tips even for not cutting blanks but bandsaw use and safety in general.

tx

Justin

[Paul Saffold]

John,

Thanks for the video. I thought it was great. Lots of information, easy to understand and thankfully no blaring music drowning out your voice. And I enjoyed your picking at the end.
I subscribed and hope you will produce more videos.
Paul

[John K Jordan]

John,

Thanks for the video. I thought it was great. Lots of information, easy to understand and thankfully no blaring music drowning out your voice. And I enjoyed your picking at the end.
I subscribed and hope you will produce more videos.
Paul

Thanks! It was fun to make. I have a list of videos I want to do but don’t hold your breath! 😁

I’d have more time if I could interest you in some mini donkeys, a dozen turkeys, and an alpaca or two.

[John K Jordan]

I am using a miter gauge and holding the log against the miter gauge fence. …

Until you get the sled made you might consider supplementing the miter gauge with a couple of wooden wedges supporting the front to prevent the blade from catching and rolling the log forward. I generally cut wedges from 2” offcuts with a curve to approximately fit the circumference of the log, doesn’t need to be exact.

If the unsupported leading edge catches on the blade and the log rolls forward it can instantly be both destructive and painful. Or worse. You can get away with cuts repeatedly like this until the one time you don’t.

JKJ

[Justin Rapp]

Thanks! It was fun to make. I have a list of videos I want to do but don’t hold your breath! 

I’d have more time if I could interest you in some mini donkeys, a dozen turkeys, and an alpaca or two.

With thanksgiving coming up, the dozen turkeys should be no issue at all :)

[Justin Rapp]

Until you get the sled made you might consider supplementing the miter gauge with a couple of wooden wedges supporting the front to prevent the blade from catching and rolling the log forward. I generally cut wedges from 2” offcuts with a curve to approximately fit the circumference of the log, doesn’t need to be exact.

If the unsupported leading edge catches on the blade and the log rolls forward it can instantly be both destructive and painful. Or worse. You can get away with cuts repeatedly like this until the one time you don’t.

JKJ

I am not going to cut another log until i have the sled ready. It will work way better than the miter gauge and until i saw your video, i never thought of using a wedge on a bandsaw.

Thanks for this tips...

[John Kananis]

John's video really is excellent - I wish there was more content out there like that.

[Curt Harms]

Highland Woodworking sells a 3/8" blade intended for turners. I think the difference is greater set on the teeth so the blade doesn't drag or bind in a not-so-clean kerf.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

[Justin Rapp]

Highland Woodworking sells a 3/8" blade intended for turners. I think the difference is greater set on the teeth so the blade doesn't drag or bind in a not-so-clean kerf.

https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodturners-bandsawblade.aspx

I found and ordered one similar from Timber Wolf. They have a specific blade also. I also looked at the blade John recommended but it was about $20 more. I don't do enough wet-cutting wood to constitute the higher priced blade.

[John K Jordan]

... I also looked at the blade John recommended but it was about $20 more....

The lasts time I bought 1/2" 3tpi blades a single 142" Lenox blade made to order at a local bandsaw blade shop was way less than $20. The one I use is inside Holston Gasses in Knoxville. Shorter blades are cheaper. They cater to industry but will sell to individuals. I've been using this shop for a long time for shop bandsaws and Woodmizer blades.

I found a network of certified Lenox bandsaw shops all over the country with a google search. Sometimes they will make blades while I wait if they have the bulk stock in hand, sometimes I call the day before and just go pick them up.

JKJ

[Justin Rapp]

The lasts time I bought 1/2" 3tpi blades a single 142" Lenox blade made to order at a local bandsaw blade shop was way less than $20. The one I use is inside Holston Gasses in Knoxville. Shorter blades are cheaper. They cater to industry but will sell to individuals. I've been using this shop for a long time for shop bandsaws and Woodmizer blades.

I found a network of certified Lenox bandsaw shops all over the country with a google search. Sometimes they will make blades while I wait if they have the bulk stock in hand, sometimes I call the day before and just go pick them up.

JKJ

pre-made from sites I found were about 50 bucks for a blade. Fastenel is a certified Lenox place has a location near me and looks like minimum is 5 blades if you want them to weld them off a large roll.

[John K Jordan]

pre-made from sites I found were about 50 bucks for a blade. Fastenel is a certified Lenox place has a location near me and looks like minimum is 5 blades if you want them to weld them off a large roll.

Maybe look around. The place here will make just one, order special blades such as Lenox carbide, an fix blades for free that break - I’ve only had that happen once.

You can’t compare prices without knowing the type of blade: spring steel, bimetal, carbide, etc. Those I buy are carbon steel, inexpensive, last a long time with green wood, easy to sharpen. I have bought bimetal and carbide for other uses.

Many have their favorite brand and type they sometimes swear by.