Sizing a disc sander

[Steve Demuth]

The thread on using a disc sander for flattening cutting boards and the like has me rethinking my sanding tools. I have a small Rikon 6" disc sander with a 1" belt sander as my primary free-form sanding tool. It's not much, but it fits in my small shop. I love the disc sander, but it's too small most of the time for what I want to do with it. The 1" belt is almost useless for anything I do. I'm thinking of using the space this thing takes (sitting on top of a fixed cabinet) with a REAL disc sander. That could be a 12" disc combined with a 6 X 48" belt, which are commonly available, or a 12" or larger standalone disc.

My inclination is to go larger, with perhaps the Grizzly G0719 15" disc sander.

Anu thoughts about this? What would you all want in a small shop that does many different kinds of projects, from segmented and plain turning, to furniture making, to curvy woodworking using both glue laminate and steam bending - so quite a few different flattening and shaping needs coming up.

[Jim Becker]

My impression and resulting opinion is that these are "shaping tools" not for things like flattening surfaces. So for shaping operations, yea, very handy to have. For flattening, there are better tools such as drum/wide belt sanders.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I do use a 12" disc sander to flatten one surface of things that are small enough to go on it, that are too short to go on the jointer. It is useless for thicknessing. It's interesting that you don't use the 1" belt sander. For what I do building instruments that's one of the most often used tools and I have two, a 1x30 and a 1x42 that is more powerful but less easily movable.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

A 6 x 48 belt, disc combo is a very useful tool. The 4 x 36 gets a lot of use too. The discs on both of mine are currently not in place and I do not miss them very often. A drum or wide belt are on my short list. A good drum or db. drum is an OK tool. The serious ones with oscillation preserve abrasive life. What I really want is a Ramco or Time Saver wide belt (and a new compressor, shop, and electric pole to make it go.

[Steve Demuth]

Jim,

I mostly agree. I do use a drum sander for flattening larger pieces right now, and of course for final thicknessing of thin stock. I have no intention of give up my drum sander (despite the fact that, per an earlier thread, it's the most "difficult" machine in my shop). But I find the disc sander useful, when it's big enough for flattening rings in ring-segmented bowls, e.g., or for getting a flat surface on odd-shaped pieces. Mostly though, I'm interested in the disc sander for shaping of convex surfaces as you suggest.

[Bill Dufour]

12" sandpaper discs are easy to source and not too expensive to buy. Sourcing the larger diameter paper is harder to find, read expensive.
Bill D

[Jonathan Jung]

I have a 12" disc sander, 6x48 vertical belt sander, 6x108 oscillating edge sander, a oscillating spindle sander, a wide belt sander, a 24" disc sanding jig for running off the drill press for slow speed sanding, and am hoping to get a 20" disc sander going. I only say this because it's not so important what sanders you have but knowing how to use them and what scenarios one is better/safer than another. The 12" disc is ok for most things but there are times I really want a bigger table and more useable sanding area. When I get the 20" going the 12" may get sold. The belt sander doesn't get used. The edge sander and wide belt are the ones I'd part with last.

[Kevin Jenness]

For my money an edge sander is the first choice for a small shop. A recent thread https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?299585-20-quot-Disc-Sander-or-a-6-quot-Edge-Sander

[Maurice Mcmurry]

The amount of sandpaper traveling at 60 mph has a big effect on performance and abrasive life. Long belts accumulate less heat. They also get good air exposure, adding to cooling. The shape of things you plan to make is a big factor too. Several things I make are designed around the various sizes of wheels my sanders have. There is a lot to consider. One of each (like Jonathan) will be just fine with me.

[Steve Demuth]

I could think about that fleet if I had about 3X the shop floor space I actually have :). As it is, I pretty much have to move something out to move anything in.

[Alex Zeller]

You said "segmented bowls", do you have a lathe? I made 2 20" platens for my lathe. I keep 180 grit on one and 120 on the other. I found an old cast iron Craftsman table saw that I used the table to mount to be lathe. With the variable speed it works great. I use it all the time to flatten things like rough turned bowls that have warped while drying and the legs on jewelry boxes.

[Steve Demuth]

I do have a 14" (over the bed) lathe. How did you make the platens? Plywood?

[Alex Zeller]

I used a face plate with a 1/4" aluminum disc I bought on-line screwed to it.
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[Steve Demuth]

Nice. Must be a trick to eliminate (well, ok, minimize) runout on that much swing from a two-piece setup, and keep it repeatable as you dismount and remount the setup?

I'm intrigued, although I'm not really keen on having to switch back and forth between lathe and sander on a regular basis.

[Randall J Cox]

I have a 6" x 48" belt with a 12" disc combo, use it a lot. Can't imagine not having it. Had it about 15 years now. Randy

[Alex Zeller]

Nice. Must be a trick to eliminate (well, ok, minimize) runout on that much swing from a two-piece setup, and keep it repeatable as you dismount and remount the setup?

I'm intrigued, although I'm not really keen on having to switch back and forth between lathe and sander on a regular basis.

The runout is a little under .010". It's never caused me an issue. Switching usually isn't too much of a problem as the only time I use both the lathe and the disc sander is when flattening roughed out bowl blanks. It's less work than switching between the Cole jaws and other jaws. I think if I was limited to a 12" disc I probably would get a belt disc combo. But with this setup I have the room to add an edge sander.