Power feeder contact area

[Myles Moran]

Christmas will be coming early for me so I can make the Christmas gifts. Unfortunately the powerfeeder is on backorder, so it'll be down to the wire to get everything made. The goal is to get a huge set of Lincoln logs made, but larger. The end goal is 1.25" square, so basically a 1.5x scale to the typical size. This was settled on because i already have the perfect router bit: https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bit_edge.html#finger_nail_anchor #8885

Order of operations seems to favor the routing as the last step, so they'll be milled, dados cut, and ripped to width first. The shorter ones will be cut to length at the end. This is what I'm thinking of as my routing process. First, set feather boards to keep the log tight to the table. These should have no problem dealing with the dados on the top and bottom of the logs. Then, set the powerfeeder to press the log against the fence. Will the powerfeeder have any issue gripping on the rounded face when I go to run the 2nd side of the logs? What else do I need to know about using a powerfeeder?

[Kevin Jenness]

Whether or not you will be able to get the wheels close enough to the table to drive the pieces in that orientation depends on your feeder. I'm pretty sure my Comatic would not do it. You may need to use a riser under your stock. The wheels should not have a problem gripping the rounded surface, although the stock wheels that come with many feeders are not very grippy. You will want to angle the wheels down slightly in the feed direction.

[Myles Moran]

The feeder is the infinity tools one. Mostly because it's a match for the top they sell, even though it looks identical to the grizzly 1/8hp offering that's in stock. From what I can tell though, it sure looks like it'll get close enough to the table.

As far as wheel grip, are aftermarket wheels common, or is that more of the manufacturer selling upgraded wheels type of thing?

[Greg Quenneville]

Aftermarket wheels are common for most feeders, and I see ebay has them for the grizzly version. You can also get them overhauled at places like Western Roller with whatever grip/hardness you want.

[Kevin Jenness]

It looks like the wheels will get down to the table - you might have to remove the housing. The standard polyurethane wheels should be better than the usual. Good luck getting it delivered before Christmas though.

[Mel Fulks]

Couple good posts below. I just add that the yellow wheels worked the best in employments, there are ,I think two more grip grades that
are more grabby , sold by Western Roller, but they should only be used, in my opinion, on really ornery stuff as they wear out much faster
than the yellow ones.

[Richard Coers]

I have limited experience with a power feeder, but don't you need wheels on the front and back of the blade? Is there a big enough gap between wheels to do that on 1 1/4" stock and not get a wheel into the blade?

[Mel Fulks]

You just have to configure to what’s needed .
One thing we decided was needed in an employment was one long axle to make it possible to just use one wheel for small curved stuff,
good idea, but it never got done . Often it’s handy to tilt the feeder sideways so that it is pressing against a tall shop-made fence, instead of
pressing down on the shaper table. For the example you mentioned, many just use a wide board and then use table saw to rip off the new
piece , then tote the wide piece back to shaper. Often called a “run ‘n rip “ job. And it’s often a good idea to rip those mouldings off with the
saw tilted about 2 degrees to make sure no open crack shows when that surface is placed under or over a a thicker square edge.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Nothing more to add about the power feeder, but that sounds like a neat project. How are you notching them? Lincoln logs, grandmas house, christmas, etc, good times!

[Myles Moran]

Nothing more to add about the power feeder, but that sounds like a neat project. How are you notching them? Lincoln logs, grandmas house, christmas, etc, good times!

Once I have the boards milled, I'll use a dado stack to cut the noches, and then rip the boards to get the square stock. Once the edges are routed, I'll have to go back and cut them all to length. With good planning I should be able to work with 2-3' long pieces until that final step.