Help: Minimax FS-41 table adjustment

[Jay Houghton]

i have an older model but I think the question may apply to all of them. How do you adjust the beds to get them co-planer? I can see how to adjust the outfeed table to bring it up to the right height for the knives (in my case Byrd), but when I put a straight edge on the infeed and outfeed tables the outfeed dips at the end. Consequently I'm not getting flat boards when jointing. I can sort of see how it might be done but the adjustments I've tried have done nothing.
I have the owners manual but I can't find a source for a service manual. So I'm hoping someone here would give me some advice.

Thanks in advance!
Jay

[John TenEyck]

I have an older FS-35, the yellow version from the 80's I think. The tables are held by a hinge on the back side, with two bolts, and a single point stop on the front side. I had to shim my infeed table to get the tables coplaner. Still not sure why, they were fine for years, but something must have worn with use. Anyway, you said the outfeed table dips at the end, but if you put your straightedge on the outfeed table you might conclude the infeed table is dipping at the front. All that matters is that the outfeed table is parallel with the knives and the tables are coplaner, however you get there. In my case, I determined that it was easier to shim the infeed table. A 0.004" shim under the front of the hinge brought the tables coplaner. To do that I loosened both bolts (technically machine screws), slid the shim under the hinge up to the first bolt, and then tightened the bolts.

Loosening the bolts can be a real adventure/nightmare if you have never had them loose before. Mine were potted in with some incredibly good thread locker. Not a pleasant process to get them loose. Be careful not to break the bolts. I consider myself very lucky.

John

[Jay Houghton]

Yeah, I was trying to avoid that scenario. The left (operator) side of the table has two bolts with locking nuts that look like they would adjust the table but that is only the side that flips up. The other side with the hinge doesn't seem to have any adjustment, other than loosening the bolts and shimming.
As a last resort I'll do that. As you said, it doesn't matter whether it's the infeed or outfeed that gets adjusted. I'm actually thinking the outfeed might be easier because it's stationary.
Would really like a better method however.
Thanks though.
Jay

[Kevin Jenness]

I don't think there is another method than shimming the hinge and adjusting the bolts on the front side. You will want a long, accurate straightedge, feeler gauges and a good supply of patience. Thread lock can usually be softened with heat.

[Phil Gaudio]

I don't think there is another method than shimming the hinge and adjusting the bolts on the front side. You will want a long, accurate straightedge, feeler gauges and a good supply of patience. Thread lock can usually be softened with heat.

When I dialed in my FS41e this is how I did it. It helps to also have a supply of shim stock. I also created a map of the tables where I recorded the measurements. Plan on spending time and being methodical. Its a pain, but it is doable.